Depends

Anyone here uses Lucas oil? Can comment?

Kenny, I heard this is the brand recommended by most track and turbo users. Is it true the property of the lub oil doesn't change or burn under extreme/fluctuate temperature? I'm thinking on using this oil but it aint cheap too.

No problem. Last time I too make change from SS to FF after 2 years.

Been using sumo R1 for 4 years. It's good for daily use. Checked the components are still ok with no oil slug on the pan. Still clean.

hahahahaha.. he will give his 2012 calender with sexy pose.. damn.. lol.

i use taiwan brand X (yes.. serious). Very cheap oil sold in taiwan petrol station.

Try Sumo R1. got difference.

You can get r1 here quite cheap. Then get the mechanic to change for you.

20w50 besh doh.. biar berat asalkan slamat.

Synthetic is used because of the oil property is much stable than mineral. That's why they have a higher oil change interval.

You want expensive and good? get Qmax motor sports II. Got PAO & Ester.

'Fixed..

but can smell your car from far woh.

Evans waterless engine coolant.

When want to carry me in your killer-rom ride?

No. Too expensive. Almost 4k just to fill up the whole car. Wait a bit longer. A similar product may come out at 1/10 of the price

hybrid does not run the engine all the time. The reason why they use thinner oil, is to ensure there's no difficulties to perform start stop. Cause the engine will run and stop running when you stop for longer period or cruising with the aid of motor. You wouldn't want the motor to take the load on spinning the engine with thicker oils right? more load and power loss. This is for IMA. But hybrid synergy they're still concern with start stop feature.

if your car is not producing much heat, or good cooling system or just normal driving with no harsh revving, it's perfectly fine to risk & use 5w30. Thicker oils may seem hard to flow, but they still protect the engine components. that's the function of lub oil. Lub the components. As temperature heats up, higher rated oils will eventually becomes lighter too and it still protects the engine as it was intended to. However for lower rating ones, it will become too watery to stick or protect the components, and your engine will eventually rub itself with its own friction and slowly broken.

Synthetic does not change their form/property as fast as mineral. That's why they will have a better OCI than others and cost more. Normally minerals cannot withstand heat too much or too long. They will turn into sludge fast.

Well it's to me there difference. I've tested mineral base and the oil turn bad nearly 3k km. Engine was sluggish like hell. When changed the lub oil everything was ok. Used synthetic for more than 3yrs previously and when the oil pan and rocker cover was open up, it was clean. My oci last time was 10k km all the time.

My sluggish meant the car jerks like hell when rev. Check engine light pops up to confirm theres issue. After oil change it's gone. And the oil was coffee black and barely hit 3.5k km.

I don't think lub oil needs anti rust. There is no corrosive property in oil. Unless heres other addd propertes. Additive might introduce chlorine which is corrosive to engine. For me I'll just stick with ester since it's widely accepted.

Can you name me the brands for the mentioned top class mineral oil? I may want to try it out on my next oil change.

So it's for Diesel or petrol? you mean the zinc will slip pass the piston ring and enter the combustion chamber then ruin the catalytic converter? I will try out on my next oil change. thanks.

Yeah. I thought of that too. TBH i knew Delo from victor long time ago and he highly recommends it on diesel engines since its cheap and good. Never cross my mind someone would use it on petrol engines. I'll see how it goes later lah. Thanks of the reminder. its all in the effort to find the best lub oil