if engine got problems better fix it bro...otherwise the fc will be higher due to engine felt heavy coz of thicker oil

i did try 10w50 before.... no problem on FC but car feels heavy lah....
of course i want fix it but financial is what holding me right now... for now this is a temporary solution and should be more than sufficient....

Bro the numbers in front & back also got difference.. If not why put it? The front is for colder temp, while the back is for hotter temp.. So the more light the front number, the easier the car can start during cold (especially during morning) this will help your car to save fuel & protect it.. Go goggle it regarding the SAE oil viscosity number means...

This post has been edited by littlefire: Feb 25 2012, 11:05 AM

not so useful in our climate la....the rear number is concern

we do not have winter. we do not crank the car every single moment.

Bro, how u explain those hybrid is using now? If not mistaken 5w-20?!? Yes, the behind 1 higher is better to withstand the heat, but with proper engine cooling & filtering nowadays, most car manufacturer is using thinner oil (If not mistaken new Honda & Toyota normal cars mostly using 5W-30) to help improve fuel efficient..

As mention, the thinner the oil.. the more easier the oil can flow in the engine thus reduce friction.. The thicker oil may be good in protecting engine parts, but as we all know thinker oil is hard to flow compare to thinner oil and thus do you think the engine can move more freely compare to thinner oil?

GM car may have oil sump of 10 liters.
Your Proton has oil sump of 5 liters.
The more oil you have, the longer is your oil change interval. It's the same as saying, the more water you have, the more dirty cloth you can clean.

That is why it is very funny hearing people say "Synthetic last 10K but Mineral 5k". They are basically saying, expensive Distilled Water can hold twice more dirt from dirty cloth than Tap Water of the same volume. Where got logic?

This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Feb 25 2012, 03:22 PM

hybrid does not run the engine all the time. The reason why they use thinner oil, is to ensure there's no difficulties to perform start stop. Cause the engine will run and stop running when you stop for longer period or cruising with the aid of motor. You wouldn't want the motor to take the load on spinning the engine with thicker oils right? more load and power loss. This is for IMA. But hybrid synergy they're still concern with start stop feature.

if your car is not producing much heat, or good cooling system or just normal driving with no harsh revving, it's perfectly fine to risk & use 5w30. Thicker oils may seem hard to flow, but they still protect the engine components. that's the function of lub oil. Lub the components. As temperature heats up, higher rated oils will eventually becomes lighter too and it still protects the engine as it was intended to. However for lower rating ones, it will become too watery to stick or protect the components, and your engine will eventually rub itself with its own friction and slowly broken.

Synthetic does not change their form/property as fast as mineral. That's why they will have a better OCI than others and cost more. Normally minerals cannot withstand heat too much or too long. They will turn into sludge fast.

Yes, Synthetic base oil last longer but reason to change oil at 5K or 10K has nothing to do with how long the can base oil last. Rather, it has everything to do with additives depletion and contamination and on both these 2 counts, Synthetic and Mineral are the same, hence same OCI.

I think Vervain has the explanation of why synthetic can last longer...

"Synthetic does not change their form/property as fast as mineral. That's why they will have a better OCI than others and cost more. Normally minerals cannot withstand heat too much or too long. They will turn into sludge fast."

But if your engine already have a lot of sludge & dirty, would recommend that you double up the OCI to reduce it.. try find those HD oil = High Detergent (Not Heavy
Duty as a lot of ppl tot... )

http://www.vw-resource.com/engine_oil.html#detergent

he "HD" designation used in describing motor oil stands for "High Detergent" (not Heavy Duty). High detergent oils (of which Castrol is one) help to wash the engine of crud and hold it in the oil so it gets removed with the oil change.

http://www.texlube.com/oilmyths.htm

Myth #8

There are two main reasons why vehicle manufacturers recommend thinner or lighter viscosity grades of motor oil. First, a gain in fuel economy can be achieved with lower viscosity oil

Second, thinner motor oil is essential for easy starting, particularly in cold weather, and for proper lubrication once the engine starts. Today's smaller engines have smaller clearances and tighter tolerances between moving parts, and there have been some instances where camshaft damage has occurred because of inadequate lubrication with higher viscosity grades in colder weather. Thinner oils, such as SAE 5W-30, will flow faster than heavier motor oils during start-up and initial engine operation and will help protect the engine from excessive wear.

Just read about it, why cars nowadays must use thinner viscosity motor oil...

This post has been edited by littlefire: Feb 25 2012, 04:51 PM

It says the "base oil" can last longer. Everyone, including me, agree.

But Synthetic's additives and soot holding capacity is exactly the same as Mineral. There are no documented proof to say otherwise. Therefore OCI are the same for both.

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Added on February 25, 2012, 5:28 pmGet a good diesel engine oil to clean up the sludge. They contain better detergent than petrol engine oil. Very cheap also.




This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Feb 25 2012, 05:28 PM

Well it's to me there difference. I've tested mineral base and the oil turn bad nearly 3k km. Engine was sluggish like hell. When changed the lub oil everything was ok. Used synthetic for more than 3yrs previously and when the oil pan and rocker cover was open up, it was clean. My oci last time was 10k km all the time.

That is probably because Synthetic oil are more slippery to begin so it felt 'better'. But feeling can be deceptive.

Allow me to give a analogy. Assuming I give you a powerful painkiller and use sandpaper to rub your skin, does that means your skin will remain intact even though you feel no pain?

Likewise, just because it feel slippery does not mean it is safe for your engine. Because when the additives (anti-rust, anti-foaming etc) get depleted, you engine lost some protection. If you really want to do extended OCI, you best do a oil analysis.

My sluggish meant the car jerks like hell when rev. Check engine light pops up to confirm theres issue. After oil change it's gone. And the oil was coffee black and barely hit 3.5k km.

I don't think lub oil needs anti rust. There is no corrosive property in oil. Unless heres other addd propertes. Additive might introduce chlorine which is corrosive to engine. For me I'll just stick with ester since it's widely accepted.

Combustion of Hydrocarbon and oxygen produces water vapor. Some of which contaminates the engine oil.

I think additives make up 1/3 of an engine oil

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_additive

This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Feb 25 2012, 07:26 PM

bro, please study/wiki/google up oil viscosity ratings/viscosity index. im not touching this until you got a full understanding on how the rating/index works.

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Added on February 25, 2012, 8:38 pmyou're waaaayyy too deep into engine oil additives, is all i'll say

yes they are good.
yes they are needed.

however claiming mineral oil having the same amount (be it quantity in types, or quantity in per additives' volume, or even the quality of additives) of additives as semi syn or even synthetic, is just delusional. think about it:
there are cost too good additives (obviously at the same time, the more additives also mean more cost too), if a good mineral oil can cost somewhere between rm60-80 per 4 liters, semi syn 110-130 per 4, and then full synthetic 200 and beyond, dont you think that they'd have better amount, and quality additives being added? if it's JUST the base oil, i doubt the full synthetic can perform as good as reputable/branded semi-synthetic, or even to a certain extent mineral oils.

case in point, try using a cheap full syn oil vs a good semi syn oil
an example, you can try a 4 liter mainstream shell/petronas full syn, vs 4 liter torco or liqui moly. and hey, liqui moly has mos2 for the semi syn, THATS one of your additives there.

remember, additives does not limit to only cleaning agents, they also has lubrication additives (eg: mos2 from LM) which further helps in serving the MAIN PURPOSE of an engine oil: provide lubrication to your engine's moving parts.

tldr:
1) what you pay is what you get.
2) OCI at shorter intervals = better/cleaner engine however it costs more, REGARDLESS of mineral/semi or full syn (refer point 1), vice versa on longer OCI

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Feb 25 2012, 08:38 PM

I often see Synthetic oil company saying their base oil is superior and that is true. But hardly ever come across one saying their additives are superior to Mineral. I wondered who is being delusional. You have been reading too many conspiracy story and not looking at established facts.

Fact is, some additives has problem dissolving in Group IV and V Synthetic base oil (I do not consider Group III being Synthetic but some sucker do). To over come this problem, they will dissolve those additives first into Mineral oil and only then add into Synthetic base oil. So there are even possibilities Synthetic has inferior additives package compared to Mineral. That is why whenever there are newer and tougher API or ACEA rating coming out, it's often the Mineral that will fulfill the newer spec earlier than Synthetic. This is especially true for Diesel engine oil because those are hardly to fulfill than Petrol engine oil.

As for higher price of Synthetic. Ever heard of the saying "there is a sucker born every minute"? Those who buy Synthetic for their vastly superior stability for use in the cold Arctic are smart. But not those who bought Synthetic thinking they have superior additives.

This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Feb 25 2012, 11:31 PM

Can you name me the brands for the mentioned top class mineral oil? I may want to try it out on my next oil change.

conspiracy stories eh? i wonder what is there to conspire about engine oils.

i'll be very frank, while i would sure as hell love to proof you wrong by providing you spec sheets on engine oil additives, it is unfortunate that most, if not all engine oil makers do not list out their full additive types used, and amount of additives being used per type (think of it as your nutrition facts for food)

so how about this:
i would assume that you have proper specification sheets to back your claim since you apparently know your stuff. mind showing me a comparison between mineral/semi synthetic/full synthetic additives breakdown to properly enlighten me?

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Added on February 26, 2012, 5:21 amthe thread pages probably have mentioned those reputable brands a lot if you've bothered to read them

my personal suggestion will still stay with torco/liqui moly since i've experienced them, cant comment about the other brands ^^;

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Feb 26 2012, 05:21 AM

Delo 400. 15W40. Group II+ base oil. RM10 per liter in 18 liter drums. Primarily for diesel but is also certified for petrol but may not be that suitable for petrol engine with catalytic convertor due to higher amount of Zinc.