time to change then
longer filter should have better filtration and carbon filtration is always a good thing

The short 1 is YZZE1, only suitable for Toyota Corolla (4A/5A-FE), Altis or Vios original engine only...

This post has been edited by littlefire: Feb 28 2012, 11:24 AM

I should get it changed then. Haish.

no need to rush it, do it next OCI
dont forget that if you change now, you will waste your oil lol

nope really being proven will happen like that...

i'm almost 4 years using Heavy Duty Engine Oil for both my car and bike....so far the result are so good and nothing like engine damage claims....

most likely, my bike engine are more clean, less sludge, soot....my car also run more smooth and last longer for OCI...

with most of the HDEO oil are getting API SL/SM rating, and also with higher ZDDP additive means it will protect your engine from METAL-TO-METAL-CONTACT....

many people MIS-understood about HDEO...most are likely pointing the HDEO are only meant for diesel/lorry engine...

just my 34.5sen after using HDEO for almost 4 years....

sarjantulang

API or ACEA do not give out their rating just for fun. If they give their seal of approval, they stand by it to be OK for petrol.

Think about it. If you do not trust those certification authority, who can you trust?

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Added on February 28, 2012, 7:19 pmIt is supposed to be heavier than you xw30 because it is a xw40. If it is not, then there is something wrong.

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Added on February 28, 2012, 7:58 pmGolden rule of marketing: If you have it, tell everybody about it. If you don't have it, keep quiet.
FS base oil is superior so they tell everybody about it. But ever heard FS telling people their additives are superior than Mineral? No? Then they better keep quiet about it. Just don't let your imagination runs wild.

This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Feb 28 2012, 08:01 PM

1) those certifications did not specify usage over very long periods. but hey, if sarjantulang can use it for 4 years, and apparently has no problems with it, feel free then. its everyone's own preference and decisions.

2) the burden of proof is on you man regardless of marketing rules. also, not really my fault that no one feels like marketing their additives (that means mineral/SS too, mind you.) or putting it out in detailed spec sheets. So i will definitely stand by my opinions until you can present the information i have requested previously. until then, i will be waiting for you to enlighten me.

Guys, heard from my mech said that the EO of Shell Helix Hx7-10w40 which come with 5L blue bottle (sold at Tesco) unable to stand the higher heat/temperature in M'sia since the oil made at UK...thus need a early oil change...

Any1 can clarify this? Is it true or my mech blaugh me?

This post has been edited by mivecwira: Feb 28 2012, 09:09 PM

your mech "blaugh" you

Since FS themselves never said their additives are better, then we can only conclude FS additives are no better. But since you say they are better, then the onus is on you to prove otherwise because you are making it up yourself.

i cannot find any of these additives information on mineral/ss/fs, does that mean all engine oil has no additives? do enlighten me as i am clearly in the wrong, not knowing and making it up myself, right?

would you so kindly provide me the requested information for my own (and anyone else in this thread) knowledge's sake?

You keep insisting you know more about FS additives package than the FS manufacturer themselves. FS manufacture never dare to say their additives are better but you keep insisting they are better. FS paid you to spread misinformation?

Have you it ever occur to you the reason why you can't find info is because there are no differences. If there are no differences, why keep insisting one is better than the other?

AFAIK, the only difference is, FS oil has less Viscosity Improver than Mineral due to it's superior base oil.

And if you do care to do some research, they all tell you to change OCI at same interval.


This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Feb 28 2012, 10:08 PM

i already said i know shit:

if you still want to argue, you can go argue to yourself as apparently me knowing shit doesnt satisfy you.

up till now you've yet to provide any solid information besides what you know (admittedly so did i, for the most part anyways)
i am MORE THAN willing to say "i'm wrong, my bad" for the sake of learning more, however it doesn't seem that its helping at all. so until you're able to provide an answer to my queries, i'm pretty done with you.

Afaik, generally FS(grade 4 n 5) no matter wat r far more superior.. mineral n SS needs addictives to minimise different wit FS.. wit d patented addictives, it sometimes make it a value buy..

Good to know you admit you are wrong. Now done with you.

BTW, Valvoline goes on record to say all additives break down at the same rate. Hence same OCI for both FS and Mineral. I have never come across a counter claim form a reputable oil company. Only Cap Ayam brand will says "FS 10K but Mineal 5K".

http://www.kitcarmag.com/techarticles/synt...tech/index.html

This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Feb 28 2012, 11:49 PM

Xde gune gaduh gini. Semua nak ilmu, kalau ada tau something,, share ler... Kalau salah, ada orang betuikan.......xde sapa pun perfect kat sini.....

prefer you'd use english as this is an english board. regardless, yeah, pretty much what you say

As such (I really wonder) are there any differences in-terms of engine protection-capability (at high revving/sheer for one) between "cheap" fully-synthetic grade engine-oils (from the mainstream brands) versus the premium/branded/expensive semi-synthetic grade engine-oils from Liqui-Moly/Torco/Redline (for example)?

Then after that, I also wonder how is the price-comparison like between the above; cheap "fully-synthetic" $$ versus expensive "semi-synthetic" $$...?

For instance, how much does 1-liter of liqui-Moly/Torco semi-synthetic engine-oil cost?


BTW, it looks very unlikely that any of the mainstream engine-oil brands are at stake at all; for instance, most (if not all) of the auto-workshops around are using the said mainstream oil brands (like Shell for example). P.S., it is also very easy to simply "come-across" any of the main-stream brand engine-oils, as compared to coming-across those "lesser known engine-oil brands"...

And yeah, I reckon I should perform OCI at 5000KM (at the very fastest; unless I had undertook a "hardcore drag-racing" or something like that; which will require the oil-change to be much earlier... )

Thanks for your advices BTW.

That article contains some very interesting information...

Thanks for sharing it in here.

This post has been edited by kEITh_22b: Feb 29 2012, 01:37 AM

you may read up the spec sheet from torco/liqui moly themselves:
http://www.torcousa.com/technology/TR-1.pdf
(mainly uses MPZ)

http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/mediend...2010W-40_EN.pdf
(MOS2)

neither of them shows full detail of their additives (what kind, amount etc) sadly

somemore info on MOS2:
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produkt...ocument&land=GB

ceratec additive which i find really good for high revving
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produkt...voiladb=web.nsf
if you dont high rev a lot, then this isn't needed

from my understanding liqui moly generally uses ceramic based technology/additives as evident in their mos2/ceratec.

some random info on engine oil by LM:
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/web.nsf...voiladb=web.nsf

1 liter of torco/lm is around RM30, based on 4 liters is around rm120

and of course the mainstream engine oil are not at stake, they are much bigger brand and having far greater marketing capabilities
when you turn on your tv, have you EVER seen advertisements from torco or liqui moly? now, how many shell/petronas advertisements have you seen?
and of course most auto workshops uses said mainstream oil, they are widely available, and most importantly, cheap. malaysian like cheap things, and if thats what it takes to sell, they will sell it.

do you know what is the definition of the word "mainstream" btw? if you did you probably won't be stating out these rather... "obvious" statements lol.

Thanks a lot for providing much info about LM/TC oils.

These great quality oils should be stocked in our workshops & stores; there will certainly be market for them.

RM30 for 1-liter of LM/TC semi-synthetic grade looks very reasonable. (Will definitely get when I see.)


Though there are really no rules in engine-oil usage behaviors in protecting your engine IMO; you can use cheap mineral-oils, don't rev too high, and change it on-time, or use synthetic-technology oils, have more confidence in revving your engine higher, and still change it on time. (In the end, your engine was still protected in which-ever method. )

Just don't put in cheap mineral-oil and perform too much high RPM/high-temperature drives. (Unless you plan to change it even more frequently.)


Basically it just boils down to the driving style, OCI, and the engine-type.

To maintain maximum engine protection, cheaper/lower-grade engine-oils just need to be changed more frequently. (For example, there are even Type-R VTEC, Turbo, and BMW owners just opting for the cheap 20W - 50 mineral-grade oil and just changing it more frequently that's all; and these type of engines usually require the expensive premium/high-grade type of oils.)

This post has been edited by kEITh_22b: Feb 29 2012, 03:50 AM