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 Engine Oil Reviews, What engine oil have u used so far

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littlefire
post Feb 13 2012, 03:19 PM

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QUOTE(chemistry @ Feb 13 2012, 03:12 PM)
sweat...
I've done top overhaul, spent RM2k +
Still consume engine oil, but much less extent than before.

Before o/haul, I need to use up 6L (Initial pour-in 3L, then top up the remaining 1L, then buy new bottle and used 2L) of engine oil to keep it at FULL level, until reach next OCI.

After o/haul, to date already clocked 2600km mileage, engine oil level dropped from 100% to 80% mark. Hopefully the remaining engine oil in the bottle is enough to make it till next OCI.


Added on February 13, 2012, 2:14 pm
I've done top overhaul already.
If not, each 5,000km will cost me 1.5x4L engine oil. Never had peace of mind when going outstation.
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Top overhaul only? I think around RM2k, the whole engine can be overhaul including piston ring as this is the main culprit engine oil makan besides valve seal..
littlefire
post Feb 14 2012, 04:00 PM

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QUOTE(ultramaman @ Feb 14 2012, 01:59 PM)
any reason why
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Just test and find out yourself laa.. tongue.gif
littlefire
post Feb 14 2012, 05:04 PM

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QUOTE(ultramaman @ Feb 14 2012, 05:31 PM)
u test, and then u tell me... can ah ?
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Ppl recommend for u, so buy and test it laa.. brows.gif Not asking you to buy the whole Vanli.. haha.. tongue.gif
littlefire
post Feb 24 2012, 04:55 PM

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I am one of the Lexus 5W-40 users, it help my Toyota Corolla AE111 to achieve even better FC woh (Previous using 10W-40 ELF semi)... But 1 thing i sure, is the oil easy to thin.. Especially around 5000km, the oil level will drop a bit below the Max level... By the way, my engine is 4A-GE 20V and i rev quite a lot.. It is a cheap fully syn oil, which i think is better compare to some semi-syn selling at the same price... Anyway, since it is so cheap.. I also change the oil around 7000km..

The reason why FC worsen, i believe your previous oil viscosity must be lower.. Coz i experience it when i help my sister P. Kelisa to change oil to Lexus 5W-40 (Ori is Petronas 5W-30) the car felt quite heavy a bit and the FC worsen..
littlefire
post Feb 25 2012, 11:04 AM

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QUOTE(huakenny @ Feb 24 2012, 08:57 PM)
5w40 n 10w40 no differences......refer to the number behind
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Bro the numbers in front & back also got difference.. If not why put it? The front is for colder temp, while the back is for hotter temp.. So the more light the front number, the easier the car can start during cold (especially during morning) this will help your car to save fuel & protect it.. Go goggle it regarding the SAE oil viscosity number means... brows.gif

This post has been edited by littlefire: Feb 25 2012, 11:05 AM
littlefire
post Feb 25 2012, 01:41 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Feb 25 2012, 01:06 PM)
we do not have winter. we do not crank the car every single moment.
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Bro, how u explain those hybrid is using now? If not mistaken 5w-20?!? Yes, the behind 1 higher is better to withstand the heat, but with proper engine cooling & filtering nowadays, most car manufacturer is using thinner oil (If not mistaken new Honda & Toyota normal cars mostly using 5W-30) to help improve fuel efficient.. icon_idea.gif

As mention, the thinner the oil.. the more easier the oil can flow in the engine thus reduce friction.. The thicker oil may be good in protecting engine parts, but as we all know thinker oil is hard to flow compare to thinner oil and thus do you think the engine can move more freely compare to thinner oil? rolleyes.gif
littlefire
post Feb 25 2012, 04:50 PM

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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Feb 25 2012, 04:12 PM)
GM car may have oil sump of 10 liters.
Your Proton has oil sump of 5 liters.
The more oil you have, the longer is your oil change interval. It's the same as saying, the more water you have, the more dirty cloth you can clean.

That is why it is very funny hearing people say "Synthetic last 10K but Mineral 5k". They are basically saying, expensive Distilled Water can hold twice more dirt from dirty cloth than Tap Water of the same volume. Where got logic?
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I think Vervain has the explanation of why synthetic can last longer...

"Synthetic does not change their form/property as fast as mineral. That's why they will have a better OCI than others and cost more. Normally minerals cannot withstand heat too much or too long. They will turn into sludge fast."

But if your engine already have a lot of sludge & dirty, would recommend that you double up the OCI to reduce it.. try find those HD oil = High Detergent (Not Heavy
Duty as a lot of ppl tot... )

http://www.vw-resource.com/engine_oil.html#detergent

he "HD" designation used in describing motor oil stands for "High Detergent" (not Heavy Duty). High detergent oils (of which Castrol is one) help to wash the engine of crud and hold it in the oil so it gets removed with the oil change.

http://www.texlube.com/oilmyths.htm

Myth #8

There are two main reasons why vehicle manufacturers recommend thinner or lighter viscosity grades of motor oil. First, a gain in fuel economy can be achieved with lower viscosity oil

Second, thinner motor oil is essential for easy starting, particularly in cold weather, and for proper lubrication once the engine starts. Today's smaller engines have smaller clearances and tighter tolerances between moving parts, and there have been some instances where camshaft damage has occurred because of inadequate lubrication with higher viscosity grades in colder weather. Thinner oils, such as SAE 5W-30, will flow faster than heavier motor oils during start-up and initial engine operation and will help protect the engine from excessive wear.

Just read about it, why cars nowadays must use thinner viscosity motor oil... icon_idea.gif

This post has been edited by littlefire: Feb 25 2012, 04:51 PM
littlefire
post Feb 28 2012, 08:41 AM

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QUOTE(soulfly @ Feb 27 2012, 07:58 PM)
kindly enlighten me regarding this Lexus oil ... does it have anything to do with Toyota/Lexus brand name?

i drive AE92 with Blacktop 20v. i just had the engine's first oil change a few days ago and used shell helix hx7 10w40 (previously it had motul turbolight in it after the engine swap).

i heard a lot about 20v owners experiencing loud valve noise when using thinner oil. some even recommended 20w. any issue with yours? my engine is still healthy though.
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I have a few friends using the lexus oil in their 20V, seems no issue also... But all of us OCI quite early due to cheap oil, we mostly change it around 5000~7000km.

I believe the loud valve noise is the VVT sound.. Some of my 20V friends already change to TOM's aftermatket cam pulley which replace the VVT and totally no sound at all.. Mine 1 still intact, but previosly maybe i put Bardahl 1 fuel treatment be4, the ticking sound seems soften a bit and still acceptable to me laa.. Even i change from 10W-40 to 5W-40 it seems better.. (maybe the lub is more easy to flow into the VVT?)

What i felt after changing to thinner fully syn oil is that when the VVT kick in, you wont felt a sudden jerk but felt the engine more smooth..

By the way, dont use the wrong oil filter.. for 4A-GE, you will need to use the longer version of YZZE2 (Camry 2.0/2.4 AZ engine oil filter if not mistaken) filter and not the short 1..

Some info sharing, If you manage to get the original manual which i have, the recommended oil for 4A-GE is 5W-30 in Japan... While manual gear oil is 75W-90 GL4.. Auto if not mistaken mostly is DEXTRON 2/3 and not the newest 4! (Take out the Auto oil level indicator and u will see it..)

I have tested 5W-30 (Bardahl semi-syn) before, and the oil thin even faster that why i decided to use 10W-40 (Elf semi-syn) then now using 5W-40 (Lexus fully-syn).. But personally, if ur engine is still new and no issue, 5W-30 really is the best.. Pick-up & VVT kick in really very smooth & light.. thumbup.gif

This post has been edited by littlefire: Feb 28 2012, 08:51 AM
littlefire
post Feb 28 2012, 10:56 AM

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QUOTE(soulfly @ Feb 28 2012, 11:36 AM)
I'm using the short YZZE2, damn it... i only remember the part number but totally forgotten about the short and tall version!
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The short 1 is YZZE1, only suitable for Toyota Corolla (4A/5A-FE), Altis or Vios original engine only...

This post has been edited by littlefire: Feb 28 2012, 11:24 AM
littlefire
post Mar 16 2012, 12:52 PM

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QUOTE(huakenny @ Mar 10 2012, 06:38 PM)
My GTR R35 running wit Lucas fully syn 5w40 + Torco MPZ Friction Reducer 2.

Water temp 75c
Engine Oil temp 80C
Transmission Oil temp 74c

this is after full boost for few runs on street.....
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I tot GTR R35 original recommended oil is Mobil 0W-40, heard would void the warranty if use others.. Oh wait.. Ur car is Re-con 1 izzit? Nice car u have.. brows.gif
littlefire
post Mar 21 2012, 12:53 PM

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QUOTE(xMika @ Mar 21 2012, 01:34 PM)
That means the engine oil you are using now has no or very little cleaning capabilities (detergent additives) ... shouldnt continue to use it anymore ..

Engine oil are meant to be black after certain mileage because they clean our engine and all the dirty residue should flow out with the engine oil .. if your engine oil very clean/yellowish that means all the dirty stuff are left over inside your engine .. you call that good ?!!  doh.gif
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Maybe his engine already very clean? tongue.gif

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