for car headlight, i think alclad chrome would be much better. too hard to rub on those small n narrow space.

hi guys...i have been hunting high and low for gun metal and chrome silver but have not been able to find.....anyone can direct me?

If u r from KL, try the local hobby shop like afhobby, time machine, MH, HHQ, infinite creation workshop......

This post has been edited by rayloke: Sep 3 2010, 06:16 PM

i bought my gun metal not long ago from afhobby. i see there still got alot. (last month)
hope there still some there for u though..

Can give more info on alclad chrome? How much is it and do they mix like normal paint?

it's pre-thinned, use straight from the bottle, BUT must use enamel or acrylic as base coat, preferably gloss black base for the best result

price should be around rm30-40, hard to find in KL, i order mine online

This post has been edited by Entau: Sep 3 2010, 08:38 PM

thanks for all the reply...where is this afhobby located?

tkting actually brings in alclad, but its rather pricey for paint.. pm him for more details.

may i know what different between Gaia paint and Mr color paint ?

basically the same thing just different brand..
I used Gaia for my last kit, not bad..
certain colors are much nicer and i love the clear colors!

hmm.. here's a tricky one i think.. my cement is slowly starting to dry up whilst in the bottle, making it very very very thick. any idea how to thin it back? don't think thinner will work right?

beside Tamiya spray,have other brand nice for plastic model? Tamiya kinda ex for me =.=

one of my cement also had the same problem.. still usable but yes very thick. i am not sure wether adding hobby thinner will help or not.
will wait for others to answer

mr.hobby is another brand but the price is quite similar..
1st advice, you can use industrial spray cans, cheaper a lot and bigger cans BUT can to be cautions as not all the brands are suitable and also the paint gets thick very easily if not sprayed with care. Brands so far that i know works well with the plastic is Anchor(according to others) and Nippon Pylox(which i have in the past, no problems).

2nd advice, if you're planning to go further or serious in this hobby, i would suggest investing an AB(Airbrush) set as it is cheaper if long term use than spray cans. With AB, can control the paints better, do more effects such as pre-shading and etc. The end result is more satisfying than spray cans. That's why i changed to AB now.

spray cans = woolaaalaaaa nicely coloured spray box.

mr.hobby is another brand but the price is quite similar..
1st advice, you can use industrial spray cans, cheaper a lot and bigger cans BUT can to be cautions as not all the brands are suitable and also the paint gets thick very easily if not sprayed with care. Brands so far that i know works well with the plastic is Anchor(according to others) and Nippon Pylox(which i have in the past, no problems).

2nd advice, if you're planning to go further or serious in this hobby, i would suggest investing an AB(Airbrush) set as it is cheaper if long term use than spray cans. With AB, can control the paints better, do more effects such as pre-shading and etc. The end result is more satisfying than spray cans. That's why i changed to AB now.

[/quote]

thanks for advice ,i still new for this hobby ,so now still hand painted ~.~ maybe will get a AB ,er....how much AB usually cost?

[quote=Grankaiser,Sep 14 2010, 07:42 PM]
mr.hobby is another brand but the price is quite similar..
1st advice, you can use industrial spray cans, cheaper a lot and bigger cans BUT can to be cautions as not all the brands are suitable and also the paint gets thick very easily if not sprayed with care. Brands so far that i know works well with the plastic is Anchor(according to others) and Nippon Pylox(which i have in the past, no problems).

2nd advice, if you're planning to go further or serious in this hobby, i would suggest investing an AB(Airbrush) set as it is cheaper if long term use than spray cans. With AB, can control the paints better, do more effects such as pre-shading and etc. The end result is more satisfying than spray cans. That's why i changed to AB now.

[/quote]

thanks for advice ,i still new for this hobby ,so now still hand painted ~.~ maybe will get a AB ,er....how much AB usually cost?

[/quote]
no worries.
when i started, i used hand painting then spray cans too...
can cost from low to high depends on your budget too..
Airbrush/hand piece can cost from below 100 to 1k.. lol
compressors 400 to 1k+ too
the pricey it is the better of course, just like a car...

Guys i heard that enamel paint can caus plastic corosion?? So confuse but saw some megazine use it to do panel lining?

This post has been edited by Ayam-man: Sep 14 2010, 08:49 PM

enamel paint CAN weaken the plastic joints especially PE parts so don't worry.. Enamel is indeed suitable for panel lining and also base layer if you want. nothing to worry about

Hobby thinner is also erosive to plastic too, but we still it to thin our paint.

It's the amount used and time of the chemical sitting on the plastic. panel lining use very minimal amount of enamel thinner or tuppertine: the amount is less, in addition, it vaporise fast because the amount is less. S it would be no harm; at least for gunpla where everything is big. Unless u r building something like a vessel with hair line thin plastic part; then u will have the chance to see how erosive it is, almost instantly.

For the industrial spray can, i usually use DPI/Anchor brand.
Works the same and extremely cheap!!!
just be careful sometime the metallic paint particle is thick, cant get a very smooth surface...
Rm5-7 per can, 400ml compare to Tamiya/mr hobby spray can which cost RM30 per can, 100ml...
Even if anything wrong happen, just use mrhobby thinner to clean off~~
CAUTION!!! DO NOT, i mean DO NOT EVER try using industrial thinner, model kits surface will melt and here goes your modal kits...!