Because i am a little low on budget, can i use white prime as white paint?

Tools to buy:
1. mr. hobby top coat
2. tamiya abbrasives
3. tamiya spray cans (light gunmetal, gunmetal & gold)
4. side cutter
5. Tamiya compound
6. mr. hobby primer

I understand as this hobby requires $$ when starting up.

You're not suppose to use white primer as white paint but if you can live with it then it's up to you. White primer finishing is not the same as white paints.

i am assuming you're gonna use everything spray cans to spray your kit therefore the $$ load. I've been there before.
Think about it, I used spray cans to sprayed my MG strike freedom. The kit cost me RM179(few years back) and the spray cans alone already cost me RM200+(mr hobby + tamiya). So it was not worth it unless you use industrial spray cans like others mentioned.

Think about it thoroughly, if you think you are gonna be serious in this hobby why not save the money and get an air brush set like i did. The starting cost might be "painful" but long term wise, it's a good investment. It may take you 400-600(basic set) of air brush but paints cost you like RM8-10 per bottle. 1 White bottle can spray 2-3 MGs.

I hope my long post doesn't bore you and able to help you. I know a guy in Sarawak or Sabah brings in gunpla tools and stuff so at least you won't have to worry about shipping cost so much.

One question, why do you need compound? do you know what it's purpose?

the compound is for the clear parts for MG 00 Qant (gn sword or something)

On second thought, I am willing to get airbrush but at least not for now.I can afford an airbrush however if i do bought an airbrush now, my mom will non-stop nagging for a few weeks and she wont spend a cent on me (food), which means that i have to pay all my living expenses myself o.O
you know that those who are not fond with us always saying that gunpla & figures are just wasting money.
and i am will find a full time job next year, so hopefully i can get an airbrush after a few months.

But i am still wishing to paint the MG 00 Qant, so maybe i ll save it up till i can afford a airbrush?

And more question regarding this if i am not painting the kit now

1. do i still need to top coat after finish snap fit it?
2. do primer comes in bottle instead of spray cans?

Well that is all for now but maybe i ll figure some more afterwards.

Thank you

This post has been edited by naruko85: Dec 23 2012, 01:04 PM

Ya, if you seriously want to get into this hobby please follow Zer0 advice.

You might felt spray can is cheap, industrial spray even cheaper but if long term usage it doesn't worth your money. When using spray can, many paint is spray into the air which is wasted. The paint will also thicker compare to airbrushing kit. Airbrush can do some special effect on your kit for example shading and you can also make your own top coat and spray with AB. Long term usage also cheaper as Zer0 mentioned. So my advice is don't buy spray can for now and save up your money for airbrush and compressor.

It is up to you if insist to use spray can, but what I said is based on my experience. Now I stop gunpla a while because I am saving up for AB and compressor. What I can do now is hand painting on inner skeleton details, armor and outer frame all required AB to paint up so all my gunpla is still in their boxes until I buy my AB set.

hmm.. yes, some modellers do use compound for the clear parts but rarely for gundam. Usually air craft modeller will use compound on their cockpit window to make it smooth or get rid small scratches. Car modellers will need compound to make their car shining and "reflective". As for your case, i don't see why you need compound for clear parts.
I usually just leave them as it is OR unless i want to color the clear parts then i will use clear paints.

I can understand your situation as a student. So instead of piling up kits, save the $$ for air brush as kits will never go out of stock(unless limited). I've stop buying gundams for a year or so, buying more paints.

1. After snap fitting, it's up to you whether you wanna topcoat it or not. Top coat as i said is just to give a nice finishing(gloss, semi-gloss, flat) but if you plan to paint the same kit in the future then don't top coat it.

2. Primer/surfacers do in a bottle for air brush use. 1 bottle of primer can prime up to 4-5 MG or more and 1 bottle cost about RM15-20.

naruko85 is my bro's account, this my account

the compound is the restore the transparency of clear parts after sanded to remove the nip/nub marks.

or is there a cheap way to remove the nip/nub of parts/clear parts mark if I am not painting the kit yet?

This post has been edited by Raive93: Dec 23 2012, 03:12 PM

alright...
yes, you are right...
usually i don't sand the transparent parts because they are a hassle. i just cut as clean as i could or just sand a little on the nib mark and hope it isn't obvious.

hmm... i would suggest you a japanese technique for newbies.
Get a dengeki hobby, any issue.. they usually promote the certain kit(new) for the magazine. they will paint the whole kit for the first few pages. the next few pages are intended for those who do not own air brush. some touch up tips and top coat to make the kit look good as if it was painted.
You should give it a go. Try searching on the web for such tips.

should look like this

it would be better if you could find the kit you're doing on that issue

This post has been edited by z3r0717: Dec 23 2012, 03:26 PM

ok thx for the tips, and some more question,

1. what is the difference between the ka. version and the normal one?
2. i have been wondering for a while but, what is the red highlighted part?

This post has been edited by Raive93: Dec 23 2012, 05:11 PM

1. ver. ka means it's redesign or designed by Katoki(a japanese gundam designer)
2. the modeller highlighted the red parts because he wants to cut it off or sand it for modding purposes

i see, so the ka vers. can be newer or older than the original one right?

more question,

1. should i use tamiya abrasive or nail buffer (4 faces) to sand the parts? Since i am will paint it later, so i wont sand the bub/nip till totally invisible, Although the nail buffer got more faces at cheaper price, however tamiya abrasive got 3 pieces, and nail buffer only got 1 face per grit. So it is more cost efficient on which one?

2. Since i am assembly the kit now, and will paint like after a few months, if next time i paint, do i still need to disassembly all the parts and paint one by one?

thx

let's help out z3r0 abit..

1. if you want a cheaper option, go to hardware store and get these grits of sandpaper- 500, 1000 and 1500. and use in this order.
cut out part from runner> sand with 500 grit> sand with 1000 grit, sand with 1500 grit (optional if you are painting)
since you will prime before painting, it will be able to cover the scratches your 1000 grit sandpaper leave behind.

cost for hardware sandpaper is much cheaper than tamiya's

2. simply put, yes. doesn't matter you paint immediately, or paint 1 year later; still advisable to paint part by part.

appreciate it bro. lol

If you plan to paint the kit, always pre-assemble. Make the parts looser so you can take out in the future.
Either making the hole slightly bigger OR cut the male peg 45 degrees. Test them whether they are still tight anot.

thx bro~

I know that hardware sandpaper are cheaper than tamiya's, but I sure that tamiya's are cheaper than those nail buffer.
On small parts, i normally leave a little nub then sand it with 600 grit, then use nail buffer to water sand it to make it smoother.
On larger parts, i ll clean the nub with design knives then sand with 600 grit and nail buffer too.

i just finish building MG 00 Qant's body, so far it is still not that tight, so i didnt cut the peg, because most peg are small or short one

oh ya, one more thing for now

1. what about the stickers? If i am gonna paint the kit later then that means I cant apply any decal right? then what about the eyes?

This post has been edited by Raive93: Dec 24 2012, 02:21 PM

you sure nail buffers are that expensive? you can easily find 1 with minimum 3 grits at less than Rm10, some even less than Rm5
if not can get from Daiso at Rm5

as for eyes, are you going to paint it?
if you are not going to paint it, of course you need to use sticker, or you want a clear part as eyes?
if you are going to paint it, why paint over a sticker?

Hi guys,

Would like to ask some opinions on cutters/nippers:

Have anyone experienced using these two nippers?

Sharp Pointed Side Cutter by Tamiya
http://www.hlj.com/product/TAM74035

OR

Ultimate Nipper by Mineshima
http://www.hlj.com/product/MNESPN-120

Which do you think is better?

And any recommendation for File Set for Gunpla building?

yes nail buffer is cheaper and got more grit, however each grit only got 1 face, if used then need to get new one. So, if is tamiya abrasive, at least it got 3 pieces

http://ngtfactory.holy.jp/

These images, quality..lead me to crazy!!!!

This post has been edited by bob_afdlin: Dec 25 2012, 10:53 AM

oh ya, anyone got MG 00 Qant, is it that the stand is only for the sword, but Qant cant attached to it?

EDIT : found how to attached

This post has been edited by Raive93: Dec 27 2012, 08:59 AM

Which stand did you mean? Action Base 2 is for the sword, any MG can attach to AB 2 too but not suitable because the stand is small. AB 1 will be use for attach MG 00 Qan[T] for dynamic posing.

guys, does water-slide decals can expired? lately I'm having problem removing them from the paper.
or do I need any other materials for this?