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 Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, v3

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TheGreatBahamut
post Sep 29 2012, 11:13 AM

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This question maybe ask before but I have to ask again,
I painted my kit with lacquer paint and I want to panel line with Gundam/Tamiya Gold Marker. What shall I use to clean the excessive panel line without removing the lacquer base paint?
If you guys have any other way to panel line over lacquer painted kit may share here too...
TheGreatBahamut
post Sep 29 2012, 03:32 PM

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QUOTE(General_Nic @ Sep 29 2012, 01:41 PM)
u can use Gundam Marker Remover
user posted image
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Oh thanks... So it won't remove the lacquer paint right?

Btw anyone here have experience in making own panel line?

This post has been edited by TheGreatBahamut: Sep 29 2012, 04:33 PM
TheGreatBahamut
post Oct 3 2012, 10:17 AM

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QUOTE(TT lim @ Oct 3 2012, 03:08 AM)
this will dissolve your lacquer paint too, even when u use gundam marker on lacquer paint,it will dissolve your lacquer paint too,
for gold and silver u can try Artline 990xf series metallic color marker,it have few diff size tips,and it is enamel base,it won't dissolve your lacquer paint and can be wipe off with Tamiya enamel thinner.
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So, where can I buy Artline marker? I normally saw their gold marker have big tip, just the black marker have small tip...
TheGreatBahamut
post Oct 3 2012, 10:31 AM

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QUOTE(Agito666 @ Oct 3 2012, 10:26 AM)
searched KLCC kinokuya, BTS/Lowyat side dont have this. unsure.gif
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Ok thanks for your info, I will go kinokuniya this weekend.
TheGreatBahamut
post Oct 3 2012, 10:55 AM

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QUOTE(Agito666 @ Oct 3 2012, 10:37 AM)
i said DONT HAVE  tongue.gif  lol
because i also searching as well. oh well if you saw it then tell me also
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Sure, no problem. Hope I have luck to find it there.
TheGreatBahamut
post Oct 27 2012, 07:50 PM

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Just curios what kind of paint is good for hand painting, need some advice from sifu. I currently using lacquer paint but found it is not easy to apply which is when I apply 2nd layer it will remove the previous layer that I applied earlier... I think it is cause by leveling thinner or maybe my problem because I not familiar with hand painting sad.gif . Other than that I also don't like the glossy finish by lacquer paint
TheGreatBahamut
post Oct 28 2012, 10:12 AM

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QUOTE(Khai62 @ Oct 28 2012, 12:53 AM)
As for me i hand painted using both lacquer and acrylic and i find the latter is much more better for this since it don't feel thick but smooth on the brush but both need to be thinned properly about the consistency of mild milk as in not too watery and still feel thickness of the paint. As for painting by layer, you really need to wait for about a minute or 2 to dry before applying the next coat as the bigger the painted surface area the longer it will dry but lacquer tend to dry the fastest and you need to paint in one direction only to minimize brush strokes. As for the gloss it either get a flat topcoat and spray on your finish kit or get a flat coat in a bottle and apply it by brush after the paint have dried.
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Thanks for your info. What ratio you use to thinned lacquer paint? My experience is while waiting the painted layer to dry, lacquer paint in tray also started to thicken up even with retarder. So I have to add thinner again?


QUOTE(nazrul90 @ Oct 28 2012, 07:16 AM)
practice make prefect
i also do hand paint since i dont have AB.. i like to use lacquer paint because the finishing/surface is better than other type of paint

from what i make, you need to make different ratio for mixing lacquer thinner with different paint such as metallic paint and normal paint
slowly apply with hand brush,wait it for dry and reapply the layer if too thin
some motivation for you(this is my first hand painted kit)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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Looks nice but still too glossy on the gun tongue.gif But not a problem because can use flat top coat as Khai62 mentioned. Btw have you try enamel paint before? I heard it is good for hand painting also.
TheGreatBahamut
post Oct 28 2012, 09:22 PM

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QUOTE(nazrul90 @ Oct 28 2012, 02:11 PM)
i only try Tamiya enamel black for reverse washing..
not sure about other color..

it have a better thinner mix ratio so more easy to hand paint compared to lacquer paint
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Oh i see, thanks for your info biggrin.gif

QUOTE(Khai62 @ Oct 28 2012, 04:23 PM)
It was like 1:3 or 1:4 ratio but usually my measuring stick for thinning paint was take a drop of the mixed paint and let it run on the side of the tray and see if it flow smoothly and still have some paint stick to it's side. It will take practice to find that sweetspot and if it was an old paint i will add more thinner than usual as they are much thicker. You do need to add some thinner again if it start to dry up especially with lacquer that tend to dry fast.
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Today I tried out metalic red lacquer paint, the finishing not bad. I will practice more to make it perfect smile.gif
TheGreatBahamut
post Nov 22 2012, 12:01 PM

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If base colour is lacquer thinned with Mr.hobby leveling thinner and panel line with gundam marker, what should I use for panel line wash?
TheGreatBahamut
post Dec 21 2012, 11:06 AM

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ICW is Infinite Creation Workshop. Refer here for more info http://www.malaysiascalemodelling.com/inde...cessfully+saved. Or you can join pla-zone, http://www.pla-zone.com/
TheGreatBahamut
post Dec 21 2012, 11:25 AM

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QUOTE(linear63 @ Dec 21 2012, 11:18 AM)
So anyone can just drop by and hang out at ICW?
Looks like a good place to pick up so tips from all the sifus
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Ya, many pro and kind modelers there. Don't hesitate to ask them when you faced any problem. smile.gif
TheGreatBahamut
post Dec 22 2012, 11:22 PM

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QUOTE(naruko85 @ Dec 22 2012, 11:08 PM)
ok thx, then if i am leaving the white parts white, i dont need to prime right?
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If you going to use the same paint on same part, you can skip priming it but do sand it so the paint will have better adhesion on the plastic. If you don't want paint it at all, it is unnecessary to prime it. But prime it is always a better choice, so the color texture will be smooth and properly adhere to the plastic. smile.gif
TheGreatBahamut
post Dec 23 2012, 01:05 PM

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Ya, if you seriously want to get into this hobby please follow Zer0 advice. smile.gif

You might felt spray can is cheap, industrial spray even cheaper but if long term usage it doesn't worth your money. When using spray can, many paint is spray into the air which is wasted. The paint will also thicker compare to airbrushing kit. Airbrush can do some special effect on your kit for example shading and you can also make your own top coat and spray with AB. Long term usage also cheaper as Zer0 mentioned. So my advice is don't buy spray can for now and save up your money for airbrush and compressor.

It is up to you if insist to use spray can, but what I said is based on my experience. Now I stop gunpla a while because I am saving up for AB and compressor. What I can do now is hand painting on inner skeleton details, armor and outer frame all required AB to paint up so all my gunpla is still in their boxes until I buy my AB set.
TheGreatBahamut
post Dec 27 2012, 10:41 AM

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QUOTE(Raive93 @ Dec 27 2012, 08:42 AM)
oh ya, anyone got MG 00 Qant, is it that the stand is only for the sword, but Qant cant attached to it?

EDIT : found how to attached
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Which stand did you mean? Action Base 2 is for the sword, any MG can attach to AB 2 too but not suitable because the stand is small. AB 1 will be use for attach MG 00 Qan[T] for dynamic posing.
TheGreatBahamut
post Dec 27 2012, 10:05 PM

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QUOTE(D-y @ Dec 27 2012, 09:52 PM)
guys, does water-slide decals can expired? lately I'm having problem removing them from the paper.
or do I need any other materials for this? rclxub.gif
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Not sure it will expired or not because I don't have this problem... Well do you dip it in water for at least 10sec and then try to move it with your finger or tools?
TheGreatBahamut
post Apr 2 2013, 11:46 PM

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Hi, I don't know whether here is the correct place to ask this question.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

TheGreatBahamut
post Apr 6 2013, 11:21 AM

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QUOTE(dopeycheese @ Apr 5 2013, 11:52 PM)
want to ask, for hand painting is it ok to use a regular paintbrush?
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Well there are many type of brushes in stationary store, you just have to pick the suitable one. But if you want to paint very tiny part then go for tamiya brush.
TheGreatBahamut
post Apr 6 2013, 03:37 PM

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QUOTE(dopeycheese @ Apr 6 2013, 03:19 PM)
really blur on this, but are there like...grades to brushes? and which one i should be looking for? i wanna paint gunpla btw
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I don't know how to explain, just find smooth and precise one.
TheGreatBahamut
post Apr 17 2013, 03:03 PM

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QUOTE(SniperUnit @ Apr 17 2013, 02:51 PM)
Hi all,

Gundam marker metallic silver RM10 ok? Consider expensive?
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It is normal. I suggest you do some homework before questioning, Google can help you, online shop also got pricing.
TheGreatBahamut
post May 4 2013, 12:21 PM

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Hi, I saw many people use photoshop or any photo editor software to change the color scheme for their model.
I also want to do the same thing but is there any good tutorial to achieve that? There are a lot of software but not much good tutorial showing how exactly it works.
There is one example in the spoiler, you can see the blue part was changed to green. Anyone mind to tell me how to do that?
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


This post has been edited by TheGreatBahamut: May 4 2013, 12:27 PM

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