hmm.. yes, some modellers do use compound for the clear parts but rarely for gundam. Usually air craft modeller will use compound on their cockpit window to make it smooth or get rid small scratches. Car modellers will need compound to make their car shining and "reflective". As for your case, i don't see why you need compound for clear parts.
I usually just leave them as it is OR unless i want to color the clear parts then i will use clear paints.

I can understand your situation as a student. So instead of piling up kits, save the $$ for air brush as kits will never go out of stock(unless limited). I've stop buying gundams for a year or so, buying more paints.

1. After snap fitting, it's up to you whether you wanna topcoat it or not. Top coat as i said is just to give a nice finishing(gloss, semi-gloss, flat) but if you plan to paint the same kit in the future then don't top coat it.

2. Primer/surfacers do in a bottle for air brush use. 1 bottle of primer can prime up to 4-5 MG or more and 1 bottle cost about RM15-20.

alright...
yes, you are right...
usually i don't sand the transparent parts because they are a hassle. i just cut as clean as i could or just sand a little on the nib mark and hope it isn't obvious.

hmm... i would suggest you a japanese technique for newbies.
Get a dengeki hobby, any issue.. they usually promote the certain kit(new) for the magazine. they will paint the whole kit for the first few pages. the next few pages are intended for those who do not own air brush. some touch up tips and top coat to make the kit look good as if it was painted.
You should give it a go. Try searching on the web for such tips.

should look like this

it would be better if you could find the kit you're doing on that issue

1. ver. ka means it's redesign or designed by Katoki(a japanese gundam designer)
2. the modeller highlighted the red parts because he wants to cut it off or sand it for modding purposes

let's help out z3r0 abit..

1. if you want a cheaper option, go to hardware store and get these grits of sandpaper- 500, 1000 and 1500. and use in this order.
cut out part from runner> sand with 500 grit> sand with 1000 grit, sand with 1500 grit (optional if you are painting)
since you will prime before painting, it will be able to cover the scratches your 1000 grit sandpaper leave behind.

cost for hardware sandpaper is much cheaper than tamiya's

2. simply put, yes. doesn't matter you paint immediately, or paint 1 year later; still advisable to paint part by part.

appreciate it bro. lol

If you plan to paint the kit, always pre-assemble. Make the parts looser so you can take out in the future.
Either making the hole slightly bigger OR cut the male peg 45 degrees. Test them whether they are still tight anot.

you sure nail buffers are that expensive? you can easily find 1 with minimum 3 grits at less than Rm10, some even less than Rm5
if not can get from Daiso at Rm5

as for eyes, are you going to paint it?
if you are not going to paint it, of course you need to use sticker, or you want a clear part as eyes?
if you are going to paint it, why paint over a sticker?

this is what i paint with industrial paint(Anchor) and Gaia Color
silver and gold do give you metal like paint look

Raive93,
Go check this website out, most of your questions can be answered here and some even with Video
http://gamerabaenre.com/?page_id=1202

I do understand you are starting this new hobby and you are curious about all of it so was i when i began.
I was told before without even trying yet asking too many questions might not help you. You need to experience it first to understand.

Raive93,
Go check this website out, most of your questions can be answered here and some even with Video
http://gamerabaenre.com/?page_id=1202

I do understand you are starting this new hobby and you are curious about all of it so was i when i began.
I was told before without even trying yet asking too many questions might not help you. You need to experience it first to understand.

1. Gaia and Mr color are lacquer base. Both can be mix. Both primers can be used. Lacquer does not harm ABS, as far as i know enamel does. Enamel will weaken it and make it brittle. Primer does not harm any parts of your kit.
   And there I thought I read an article somewhere that it is the thinner used for lacquer paint that harm the ABS? HERE

2. i think this is for shading. Usually shading 1st layer is dark tone then only lighter tone to achieve the shading effect(AB only). If you use AB, lighter color can be covered over darker color if you spray it properly.
   So if I am planning to hand painting all then I shouldn't do the pre shading stuff?

3. Try Agent man in pain(forgot the proper nickname). He is from sarawak or sabah(forgot) OR order online from Tkting
    He is from Sabah, I knew his store, I am asking just in case for he didnt sell that type of paints or etc