Ridt_Henshin: I think inquisytor has already answered all of your question well; but i would like to add a word or two, in the context of modeling.

See, modeling, though is not art, but many of them do come close to art. Take for example the question about painting n thinning the paint; during school time when we do water color painting in kelas lukisan, would anyone of us asked the cikgu "berapa air saya kena tambah dalam water color saya?" Might sound as crude, i would say this is one of the stupidest question ever exist. As inquisytor said, it depends on what u want. too thin? add more paint or wait a while, too thick? add more thinner.

Same thing goes to modeling paint. So people, please do take note.

As for painting, same thing either it's hand paint, spray can, air brush. One needs practice, practice, and practice; exactly like what u did in art class painting a water color picture. The medium is just a medium, technique is just a technique. It's the skill that makes a difference.





ken3230: Hahah I will quote inquisytor "this has been answered 2 million times...." Do check out the previous version of this thread and u will find the answer. Basically, setter does melt the decal a little, and with some adhesive elemenet in it. So it's usually at the bottom. Softener, as its name, soften the decal but melting it. Usually applied on top...

cant realy understand
hear tis b4
settler use on flat surface
softerner use on like "longkang" surface
izit true ??

Model thinner can remove paints and etc things on your kit. It can erase your gundam marker but depends what type(lacquer or acrylic) it is using..
You'll have to becareful too as too much thinner will "clean" more than you need...
Model thinner can get in in hobby shops, please check the pinned threads for more information.

actually both can use on flat surface but yes softerner is for "longkang" surface..
Both of these are meant for decals(sticker/water type)
Softerner can remove the "bubbles" in the decal... settler also can but not as much as softerner..

so u guy use softerner more than settler ??
or juz use softerner

IT depends on what decals you are using...
i used settlers, have never used softerners... i will use them in the future to reduce the "silvering" on my decals...

if i m using water slide decal ?
wat do u mean by "silvering"

hmm.. actually both also can la..just both different uses. like you said the "longkang" then softerner will be the suitable one

As for silvering
it's the side of the decal where you can see the "white", something like not "sticking" properly...
I don't really know how to explain it... showing a picture would be easier...

so both get the same result but softerner got extra function (use on longkang surface) ??

This post has been edited by ken3230: Apr 28 2010, 09:52 PM

not exactly...
take from pinned thread...
Decal Softener
This liquid makes decal soft and conform to the surface it is stuck on. Usually on a gloss surface across the panel lines, the decal is cut and this liquid is brushed on to let the decal stick in the insides of the line to make it look painted on

hm...since i not going to paint my whole GUNPLA glossy
so does tat mean i should use settler
another question normaly top coat will tahan how long ?
enough for 2 MG kits ?

thank u bro.u answered alot of my question...

and lastly what do u mean layer by layer?i need to paint many times over it?

p/s

do u paint or dab dab at the plastic? like touch2? argh hard to explain.souded gay also hahah X D

thanks for the help guys

---

Added on April 29, 2010, 12:03 amthanks bro.cant wait to buy stuff n try.lots of kits waiting.lol

This post has been edited by Ridt_Henshin: Apr 29 2010, 12:03 AM

using setter will create silvering problems. I never use it. always use softer even on flat surface. if not use softer the decal will have wrinkle problem most of the time.

guys.. for those who still been confusing over the usage of Mr. mark softer and setter, let me say one more final comment.

Both Mr. Mark softer and mark setter are meant for troublesome water-slide decal application.
Basically IF YOU DON'T HAVE PROBLEM with your water slide decal, don't trouble yourself getting it and get confuse over the usage different between the two.
All new water slide decal shall work nicely if applied properly WITHOUT Mr. Mark softer or setter.

PROBLEMATIC DECALS:
1) decals fail to adhere or keep lifting up after drying = Mark setter
2) decals fail to conform to complicated surface (raise area, panel line, hole, etc) = Mark softer



If you got silvering(patches that looks like mini bubble trap beneath decal), more likely the surface is matt/uneven/not gloss.
Make sure surface is always gloss and not matt before decal application.

NOTE:
Mark Softer is more potent and may cause your water slide decal to WRINKLE. This is NORMAL. Just leave Mark softer to do its job once applied, never touch until it's fully dried.

thx for the advise
how about the top coat
wonder 1 bottle top coat enough for my sinanju n unicorn

Dont think Gunze will produce a product just to make your decal looks ugly. Mark setter wont and not a cause for silvering. In fact, it reduce silvering.

guys...whats the diff for tamiya epoxy putty and other epoxy??

One Canspray or One Paint bottle(for airbrushing)?
For flat coat usually won't consume that much, so maybe can (both canspray or 10ml).
Again depend how thick you need your topcoat to be.
To be safe, get 2.

For top GLOSS COAT, confirm not enough as you need a thicker build up for gloss.
Canspray also got more wastage if compare airbrushing.


BRAND diff
PRICE diff
AVAILABILITY diff

anyme, what difference you want to know?

Can I ask you, whats the diff for tamiya acrylic paint and other acrylic paint??

Be specific with what you want to ask, if can compare with something you intended to use against tamiya epoxy putty.
Even there's few diff tamiya epoxy putty > http://www.hlj.com/hljlist2/?Word=tamiya%2...%20putty&Dis=-2.
Which one are you refering to?

ehh...sorry guys... i miss something...

want to ask about epoxy smooth surface and others epoxy...

sorry.... my bad...

This post has been edited by anyme: Apr 29 2010, 04:14 PM

tutorial to Start GunPla-ing
i noticed that the thread doesn't have anything on brush + hand painting
need a sifu to add sumthing there. since im not a pro myself. & also most of the sifu here is upgraded to airbrush
for example: what brush to use? what thinner brand to remove the paint from brush & the dish?

as far as my experience goes. factory thinner on the mr. hobby paints = instant peel off (literally) but not my brush as the paint still have some stick on it. i even used my fingernails to remove them.(i think i might be damaging the brush instead)

hobby thinner = lighten the color, diluting the paint slowly from the brush. but still use quite a lot of volume to fully remove the paint from the brush. i even tried using hobby thinner on a dish, dip the brush in & rub it with my fingers. then i will need to do this 2 - 3 times to get the paint fully out from the brush.

is what im doing wrong?

hi guys. i'm thinking of building my gundam with below method. (no painting)

1. panel line + decal STRAIGHT FROM THE RUNNER
2. top coat (flat for my case)
3. cut out from the runner and trim
4. assemble
5. final topcoat (flat for my case again)

haven't try the method yet but will buy a cheap HG for experiment Hope some sifu can give me some guide. thanks in advance