waja total is 60 ltr...can refer sphiroth statistic there...

half gauge then.

ic ic. thanks.

thanks sphiroth. thats really help.

p/s: so now i can estimate my fuel usage for weeks or month. haha.

This post has been edited by death_nite: Oct 13 2009, 07:21 PM

hmm i thought it was 50. because each time i pump when my meter shows 1/4 left, i'm only pumping in around 40-43 litres of petrol. and that would mean that i've actually have around 20 litres left in the tank.. thats like more than 30% left. lol

i just bought a waja 2002 2nd hand hand last month n the price include everything cost me around 29K (include insurance) is that expensive?
but i know i kena cheat cos i din bring mechanic to go and see the car...now my car everywhere spoil....need to know where got reliable mechanic in PJ area...so sad....need all senior help out...

how many waja user here had changed they cd player? After change the cd player, can it still able to control the volume using the steering?

2002 waja should be price around 24-26k only. Sorry to break the news. I think you can find details of good mechanics in V5 thread.

LoL... Waja auto can clock below 3k rpm @ 125km/h??? My manual waja can't get that figure, 125km/h at least over 3k for sure. Between, I could merely hear some noise from my tyre... Inside the cabinet when running.. Sound like something else turning except for tyre... My vibration never fixed after I do balancing for my wheel. And the car seems like going left or right sometimes... Especially when braking, it will goes either left or right depend on the car "mood"... Problem mentioned above not serious... Actually , wheel balancing already helped much in reducing the vibration of the steering. Maybe i should say it this way, Reduce from 80% vibration to 20% vibration. Solution from all senior members here?

maybe time to change engine mounting... as for the brakes.. im not too sure. i think auto cars tend to run at lower rpms because they only have 4 gears.. so the difference in gear ratios are higher. correct me if im wrong

guys i'd like to ask.. when using iridium spark plugs, what effects will it give to the car compared to normal ones? it costs around 180 right?

This post has been edited by nayte: Oct 13 2009, 11:20 PM

Engine mounting changed lol... Erm, is it possible that the problem arrise is caused by the bearing of the car?

is it true the car can reach 125km/j at below 3k rpm.. i think they have mod the gear ratio to get the speed.

No, u can't use it anymore.

ohh...the price he sell to me is at rm25,800 but after adding all the fees here n there include insurance it bcome nearly 28K

and summore with lot of thing already spoil....and bad manners after sales...feel so bad....

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Added on October 14, 2009, 9:41 ami think i have that problem also....but i go tyre shop and change a new tyre then do alignment then everything goes well...i heard that it's the tyre already expired....u may try that out...like my car both 4 tyres all expired and i change only 1 the vibration very huge then change both front tyre d....better but the steering still a bit slanting to the left...so wait wheni change the 2 more at the back hopefully it will be fine...hehe

This post has been edited by bubblefrog: Oct 14 2009, 09:41 AM

why not u list down what are the thing u thought already spoilt? some ppl here might able to help u up.

u cant..

really?basically with tht speed is 3.3k rpm

feel more lively...but for a moment...hehe...

can be engine mounting...
bearing?wheel bearing?if wheel bearing it will be soo noisy...

typo error guys .... was 115km/h at slightly under 3k rpm(29xxrpm)

@nayte@
tested. the performance you gain in using the iridium spark plug is very minimal compare to the price you have to pay.
am using the standard bosch spark plug with bosch cable. so far so good.
properly tuned 4-2-1 extractor and k&n drop-in air filter gives better result.
perhaps, pulleys thingy is another alternative.

btw, any news on yokohama ad08 in malaysia yet?

Insurance should be less than 1k. So your processing fee (roadtax, name transfer, loan arrangement) cost around 2k?! That is expensive! What else did you pay?

Obviously, vibration is cause by moving part, any part that move can be the cause of vibration. Leave your car in free/neutral gear, then start revving from idling to, say 5-6k rpm, very slowly. Then note the vibration on your steering. Some slight vibration is normal for >4 years waja, usually more noticable around 2.5-3k, a sign of wear and tear. Something I notice when I was scouting for 2nd Waja some time ago.
However, if your steering vibrates terribly at all rpm, (worst case, vibrate at idling), confirm engine mounting already.

But, if the vibration is acceptable/normal in neutral gear, and only vibrate when driving, then it can be due to tyre balancing, and etc... Try post your observation here, some sifu may able to help.


rpm 3.5k already 130km/h 115km/h rpm should be 3k already le.. Or you using auto?
Anyone know where to tune engine with modified extractor?

i have change new tyres and do alignment.. the mechanic told me my chamber position at right front wheel out of spec range, need to change the screw chamber that cost me rm45 for that things.. i just wonder why our stock front wheel car did not come with that kind of screw.. i think its so expansive for that screw la... is it correct we must change the screw chamber to do alignment coz our stock screw cannot be adjusted.

Yeah, I kena also.. ask to change to camber nuts rm 90 already.. damn pain.. But interestingly alignment is good after the work. Though my mechanic friend tells me it is actually kinda useless and proper alignment can be done without a change of camber nut..

Anyone can confirm what the nut actually does?

wow...what i thought is actually is send to my home mechanic to repair but he also din finish up the job for me cos that time was raya i rush back to hometown to fix...

what i'v fix:
- wheel bearing (driver side)
- both wiper holder cos the clip broke d...
- front tyre (both)
- brake pad (as this i feel cheated cos after i got my car next day i already go back to see him tell him that smth wrong with the break seems like break pad used up d...then he say he'll fix it for me...n i think he change a almost used up 1 for me...cos only drive for few days same thing happen again but then was busy until i drive a long way back to hometown then my mechanic told me the break pad already used up until kao kao d.... so sad)

what need to be fix as i know:
- back tyre (both)
- absorber (front)

i know there's still smth wrong but dunno what is wrong that's why wanna find some1 reliable n experience to check out...cos i dun wan to play around with my life...


hope all the sifu here can help out...thanks in advance haha

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Added on October 15, 2009, 9:47 ammy insurance is more than 1k....i actually also dunno what i pay...i very blur...wait tonite go back i come post the list of thing he charged me..haha...hopefully my experience can bring joy to other ppl so that they won't get cheat as like me anymore...

erm...my car no more vibration d...is just the steering will turn slightly to 1 side...n since my back tyre both expired d...so i assume them as the tyre problem wait i change tyre d...if the situation din change then will need help d...hehe...but hor...dunno y...i drive everywhere it seems very noisy sound dunno from tyre or where....u can hear smth like ppl push trolley then when trolley move u can hear the friction of the floor n the wheel...

This post has been edited by bubblefrog: Oct 15 2009, 09:47 AM

Useless for this screw chambers. Last time used it before using my Waja, the sick thing alignment koyak after 2000km, no frequently have to do again.. . So from that lesson i don't want to use it for my Waja even the other mechanics shop always want to 'seduce' me for it