New APS-C / DT Crop Lenses ----------------------------
Sony 11-18mm F4.5-5.6 DT = RM20xx Sony Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 16-80mm F3.5-4.5 DT ZA = RM25xx Sony 16-105mm F3.5-5.6 DT = RM16xx Sony 18-250mm F3.5-6.3 DT = RM16xx Sony 50mm F1.8 DT SAM = RM5xx Sigma 50-150mm F2.8 EX DC HSM Macro = RM30xx
New Full-Frame Lenses ------------------------
Sony 16mm F2.8 Diagonal Fisheye = RM25xx Sony 20mm F2.8 = RM19xx Sony Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 16-35mm F2.8 SSM ZA = RM54xx Sony Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 24-70mm F2.8 SSM ZA = RM54xx Sony 24-105mm F3.5-4.5 = RM18xx Sony 28mm F2.8 = RM8xx Sony 35mm F1.4G = RM45xx Sony 50mm F1.4 = RM10xx Sony 50mm F2.8 Macro = RM14xx Tamron 70-200mm F2.8 Macro = RM30xx Sigma 70-200mm F2.8 EX DG HSM Macro = RM38xx Sony 70-200mm F2.8G SSM = RM54xx Sony 70-300mm F4.5-5.6G SSM = RM25xx Sony 70-400mm F4-5.6G SSM = RM54xx Sony Carl Zeiss Planar T* 85mm F1.4 ZA = RM50xx Sony 100mm F2.8 Macro = RM23xx Sony Carl Zeiss Sonnar T* 135mm F1.8 ZA = RM48xx Sony 135mm F2.8/T4.5 Smooth Transition Focus = RM36xx Sony 500mm F8.0 AF Reflex = RM25xx Sony 300mm F2.8G SSM = RM20xxx Sony 1.4x Teleconverter = RM15xx Sony 2.0x Teleconverter = RM15xx
Common Kelvin White Balance Settings : 2500K - very strong orange tungsten light 2800K - strong orange tungsten light 3200K - yellowish tungsten light 4500K M6 - flourescent light (most flourescent tubes are green even though our eyes don't see it) 5500K - flash 6500K - daylight (or daylight-balanced flourescent light) 9900K - strong blue stage lighting or evening light
Xenon lighting is rare but that should be between 7000-9000K.
Whenever you enter a new situation that has different WB, just set your Kelvin WB again and test with one shot. You
should be able to do this with practice.
With the Sony A300 and A350, you can use Live View and see the effect of changing Kelvin WB... live!
M = Magenta G = Green 2500K = Blue 9900K = Amber
Take a picture. Supposing the picture is very Green, you need to add the opposite which is Magenta. If the picture is
too Blue you need to go closer to Amber. So if the picture is very blue-green-ish, you will need to go closer to 9900K
M9.
To prevent the built-in flash from appearing in pictures when in wireless flash mode, you can use any of these
methods, or a combination of them:
- use a darker aperture (e.g. F11) - use a lower ISO (e.g. ISO100) - use a shutter speed faster than your flash sync speed so that High Speed Sync is activated (e.g. 1/320th of a
second) - use a piece of exposed, developed negative film in front of your pop-up flash
As I was saying , no point investing so much on a good filter as most better lens you might buy next time wont be of 55mm diameters. So dont need use filters for kitlens la. (:
This post has been edited by Kul | Mo0: Jul 21 2009, 04:00 PM
As I was saying , no point investing so much on a good filter as most better lens you might buy next time wont be of 55mm diameters. So dont need use filters for kitlens la. (:
if like buying those cheap filter for the lens,will there be any side effect?
Yea some cheap filters might lower the image quality. So either get a good filter or dont use at all. (: And as for me I prefer using a diffuser especially when there's no ceiling and have to direct flash. (:
if like buying those cheap filter for the lens,will there be any side effect?
dun buy the too cheapo filter bro, might be degrade the IQ n flare problem, buy reliable brand like hoya or kenko.. for standard lens, filter about rm50-70 is consider ok la.. but if expensive lens, better use 100+ like pro1d or B+W or CZ
Guys,any idea how to clean the lens surface? i havent bought the filter and i accidentally touched the lens. i've used spectacles cloth to try wipe it off but no matter how i wipe it still got those oil marking on it
Guys,any idea how to clean the lens surface? i havent bought the filter and i accidentally touched the lens. i've used spectacles cloth to try wipe it off but no matter how i wipe it still got those oil marking on it
oil marking... buy lenspen or those umm.... non lint cloth.. whatever it is called... or use newspaper to clean
This post has been edited by chiggy: Jul 21 2009, 08:27 PM
Guys,any idea how to clean the lens surface? i havent bought the filter and i accidentally touched the lens. i've used spectacles cloth to try wipe it off but no matter how i wipe it still got those oil marking on it
Ur spectacle cloth is what kinda material? Is nylon liddat, or like micro fiber/velvet kinda texture??
it will tell you why or do u need a diffuser stated clearly in there...
QUOTE(chiggy @ Jul 21 2009, 08:00 PM)
woot, new thread and a sad announcement... i just got "poor'ed" today bought a new F58AM at RM1015 time to read the manual
eh???? EHHHHHH! where can get at that price bro? share share.... last time a fren of mine asked.... the cheapest he found only at RM1130 last month
that is RM100 saving wor!
eh... btw.... CONGRATZ!!
QUOTE(Killerz622 @ Jul 21 2009, 08:25 PM)
Guys,any idea how to clean the lens surface? i havent bought the filter and i accidentally touched the lens. i've used spectacles cloth to try wipe it off but no matter how i wipe it still got those oil marking on it
as chiggy said... try to get urself a "lenspen for lens" which actually really really helps to clean oil smudges last time i bought mine from here >> http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=794661 trusted seller
so fast la this thread. I'm no worry as newb so many alpha user here, can help me alot.
btw, just do some reading on photography mag; then pass by word; 'high-pass photography technique'.. can somebody expert brief on this ? is this photoshop 'photo-editting' technique or pure-photographer technique? kindly explain.
oil marking... buy lenspen or those umm.... non lint cloth.. whatever it is called... or use newspaper to clean
can use newspaper ah? will it scratch the surface?
QUOTE(Zeegon @ Jul 21 2009, 08:27 PM)
Ur spectacle cloth is what kinda material? Is nylon liddat, or like micro fiber/velvet kinda texture??
i not sure,got abit like some sofa cloth. one direction very smooth,another direction like rough
QUOTE(dingenius3 @ Jul 21 2009, 08:33 PM)
@moo: still need a cobra??? most probably i can lend u mine tomoro nite... how? i think u better surf this site >>> http://www.abetterbouncecard.com/
it will tell you why or do u need a diffuser stated clearly in there... eh???? EHHHHHH! where can get at that price bro? share share.... last time a fren of mine asked.... the cheapest he found only at RM1130 last month
that is RM100 saving wor!
eh... btw.... CONGRATZ!! as chiggy said... try to get urself a "lenspen for lens" which actually really really helps to clean oil smudges last time i bought mine from here >> http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=794661 trusted seller
will buy it once i got money but now i got none of these equipment.
As I was saying , no point investing so much on a good filter as most better lens you might buy next time wont be of 55mm diameters. So dont need use filters for kitlens la. (:
ok2... thanks.. heheh... but im afraid that my lenses scratch la.. ahaha....
Ya din need it. But most likely I'll only use it on Friday. (: Ok for you ka? Wont scratch wan la. Just cover whenever you're not using should be alright. (:
woot, new thread and a sad announcement... i just got "poor'ed" today bought a new F58AM at RM1015 time to read the manual
QUOTE(chiggy @ Jul 21 2009, 08:33 PM)
foto miami, section 14, next to kfc
Wow.. Promotion period or what? I am funding for a cobra too... That's really good news for me... Can use the rest to get a decent rechargeable battery sets..
By the way, the one next to digital mall right?
This post has been edited by littleway: Jul 21 2009, 09:43 PM
Any other than monfrotto tripods? I'm willing to fork out up to RM1k for a good tripod as I think it is worth of investing on it. Any nice shop to recommend?
Yay, always thinking what to upgrade after a200, in mind of jumping ship, then might wait for new alpha body.
Wow.. Promotion period or what? I am funding for a cobra too... That's really good news for me... Can use the rest to get a decent rechargeable battery sets..
oh .. damn fast this thread .. .. any news on replacement of a700? .. ..
Even better A8xx .. Probably entry lvl for FF ? .. hv to wait n c
QUOTE(Killerz622 @ Jul 21 2009, 08:25 PM)
Guys,any idea how to clean the lens surface? i havent bought the filter and i accidentally touched the lens. i've used spectacles cloth to try wipe it off but no matter how i wipe it still got those oil marking on it
try use this ..
QUOTE(5564321 @ Jul 21 2009, 11:05 PM)
Yeah, a good tripod can last you really really long. Any nice shops to look around?
Any other than monfrotto tripods? I'm willing to fork out up to RM1k for a good tripod as I think it is worth of investing on it. Any nice shop to recommend?
Yay, always thinking what to upgrade after a200, in mind of jumping ship, then might wait for new alpha body.
sorry for OT but dude, may i know how the heck did u get that kind of speed for your internet connection? really interested if i can apply for 1.
SHOfrE3zE: Nice! I'd prefer it as a neutral-WB version though; the colors would stand out more since they're mostly primary colors.
chiggy: Congratulations! That is probably a record-breaking price among all of us!
I got myself the new Sony HVL-F20AM flash!
It's a quickly-foldable flash that turns off when it is flipped down.
It also turns off the moment you start turning the flash downwards so you can't use it at a halfway position.
It has a very nice, solid springy snappy feel. You will enjoy the tactile feedback from flipping it! I would say it feels 80% similiar to closing the HVL-F58AM flash stand. It has rubber padding on the front to prevent the A900's prism head from marking the flash.
It takes 2 AAA batteries.
When mounted on the Sony Alpha 900 (or any Alpha without a pop-up flash, according to the manual), it can control the Sony F36AM, F56AM, F42AM, and F58AM. However, the F20AM cannot be used as an off-camera flash. This is the first Alpha flash that can't.
The F20AM cannot control off-camera flashes when mounted on the A100/A200/A230/A300/A330/A350/A380/A700 as far as I know (and according to the manual) but I will update this post if I find that it actually can, tomorrow night...
Fortunately, the pop-up flash of the A100/A200/A230/A300/A330/A350/A380/A700 all can trigger off-camera flashes. So it's not a functionality that is strongly needed on those cameras anyway!
Off-camera Group Ratios
The F20AM cannot set off-camera group ratios even on the A900 but that is fine by me - ratios would need a complex interface on the back of the flash, like the F58AM, since the Alpha flash ratios are set on the flash and not the body. It's also meant to be simple to target the A230/A330/A380 market while throwing in a bonus for the A900 crowd.
Bonus Combination!
Nikon has a SU-800 unit which mounts on their flash mount, and triggers off-camera flashes. Nikon also sells a SB-400 flash which is small and can be set to bounce mode.
Canon has a ST-E4 unit which mounts on their flash mount, and triggers off-camera flashes. Canon also sells a 270EX flash which is small and can be set to bounce mode.
However, this Sony HVL-F20AM combines both the trigger unit and small flash into one! If you wanted to use both the SB-800 and SB-400 flash at the same time, you could not! If you wanted to use both the ST-E4 and 270EX flash at the same time, you could not!
Here it is, compared to my Sunpak PF20XD for size. Longer, thinner, just as wide.
There are only 3 switches on the F20AM - the DIRECT/BOUNCE switch, the TELE/WIDE switch and the ON/OFF switch (which is the swivel point.)
Setting the DIRECT/BOUNCE switch to DIRECT sets the flash to point forward, while BOUNCE points it up 75 degrees.
Setting the TELE/WIDE switch to TELE sets the flash zoom head to 35mm APS-C/50mm full-frame, while WIDE pulls a diffuser in front of the flash head, effectively making it 18mm APS-C/27mm full-frame.
Interestingly, and very cleverly, Sony designed it so that when you're in BOUNCE mode, and you set the TELE/WIDE switch to WIDE, the diffuser 'skips' past the flash zoom head so you cannot use BOUNCE and WIDE at the same time. In such a condition it would be the same as BOUNCE and TELE.
That said, you do not need to shoot BOUNCE and WIDE - when you bounce off a ceiling, the distance travelled makes the light spread out widely so it's already pretty much WIDE. If you use the wide panel diffuser on your other flashes while bouncing the flash off the ceiling, you are just wasting a lot of flash power!
And now, I can finally use my F58AM off-camera on my A900 - previously, I'd have to mount the F58AM on the A900 in order to trigger off-camera flashes! Thank you Sony for saving some wireless functionality for the A900!
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
SHOfrE3zE: Nice! I'd prefer it as a neutral-WB version though; the colors would stand out more since they're mostly primary colors.
chiggy: Congratulations! That is probably a record-breaking price among all of us!
I got myself the new Sony HVL-F20AM flash!
It's a quickly-foldable flash that turns off when it is flipped down.
It also turns off the moment you start turning the flash downwards so you can't use it at a halfway position.
It has a very nice, solid springy snappy feel. You will enjoy the tactile feedback from flipping it! I would say it feels 80% similiar to closing the HVL-F58AM flash stand. It has rubber padding on the front to prevent the A900's prism head from marking the flash.
It takes 2 AAA batteries.
When mounted on the Sony Alpha 900 (or any Alpha without a pop-up flash, according to the manual), it can control the Sony F36AM, F56AM, F42AM, and F58AM. However, the F20AM cannot be used as an off-camera flash. This is the first Alpha flash that can't.
The F20AM cannot control off-camera flashes when mounted on the A100/A200/A230/A300/A330/A350/A380/A700 as far as I know (and according to the manual) but I will update this post if I find that it actually can, tomorrow night...
Fortunately, the pop-up flash of the A100/A200/A230/A300/A330/A350/A380/A700 all can trigger off-camera flashes. So it's not a functionality that is strongly needed on those cameras anyway!
Off-camera Group Ratios
The F20AM cannot set off-camera group ratios even on the A900 but that is fine by me - ratios would need a complex interface on the back of the flash, like the F58AM, since the Alpha flash ratios are set on the flash and not the body. It's also meant to be simple to target the A230/A330/A380 market while throwing in a bonus for the A900 crowd.
Bonus Combination!
Nikon has a SU-800 unit which mounts on their flash mount, and triggers off-camera flashes. Nikon also sells a SB-400 flash which is small and can be set to bounce mode.
Canon has a ST-E4 unit which mounts on their flash mount, and triggers off-camera flashes. Canon also sells a 270EX flash which is small and can be set to bounce mode.
However, this Sony HVL-F20AM combines both the trigger unit and small flash into one! If you wanted to use both the SB-800 and SB-400 flash at the same time, you could not! If you wanted to use both the ST-E4 and 270EX flash at the same time, you could not!
Here it is, compared to my Sunpak PF20XD for size. Longer, thinner, just as wide.
There are only 3 switches on the F20AM - the DIRECT/BOUNCE switch, the TELE/WIDE switch and the ON/OFF switch (which is the swivel point.)
Setting the DIRECT/BOUNCE switch to DIRECT sets the flash to point forward, while BOUNCE points it up 75 degrees.
Setting the TELE/WIDE switch to TELE sets the flash zoom head to 35mm APS-C/50mm full-frame, while WIDE pulls a diffuser in front of the flash head, effectively making it 18mm APS-C/27mm full-frame.
Interestingly, and very cleverly, Sony designed it so that when you're in BOUNCE mode, and you set the TELE/WIDE switch to WIDE, the diffuser 'skips' past the flash zoom head so you cannot use BOUNCE and WIDE at the same time. In such a condition it would be the same as BOUNCE and TELE.
That said, you do not need to shoot BOUNCE and WIDE - when you bounce off a ceiling, the distance travelled makes the light spread out widely so it's already pretty much WIDE. If you use the wide panel diffuser on your other flashes while bouncing the flash off the ceiling, you are just wasting a lot of flash power!
And now, I can finally use my F58AM off-camera on my A900 - previously, I'd have to mount the F58AM on the A900 in order to trigger off-camera flashes! Thank you Sony for saving some wireless functionality for the A900!
wow wow owowowow~~ so u organizing a TT soon? maybe i can take a look that f20 + return back ur IR filter
Kul | Mo0: It's a mini flash for any Alpha (which is why it's marketed for the A230/A330/A380 owners). Just that it can trigger off-camera flashes on the A900.
Aiyak. Tonight cant doh. And nice review albnok. (: Seems like it's made as a mini flash for just the a900 right?
Same here man. Gonna OT tonight
And albnok, although the A200 has a pop-up flash to trigger wireless flash, it is still not that efficient yet la... (unless them flash guns are either near, the place is dark, a lot of white bouncy things around..) sometimes it just doesnt trigger them, and it annoys me, do you think that this happens cos the pop up on the A200 is rather small and yea, pendek sikit?
Cos i was talking to zeeg yesterday bout the F20 too... and we werent sure of whether the F20 wuld have that ability on A200-A700... now we know la... thanks for the review albnok!
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
off topic..the mods are seriously unfair at times!
millenia3000, I don't believe the F20 will help you in that situation; bouncing will reduce WL range. I do want to find out today if the F20 offers that much more range in terms of WL triggering.
Again, that's what the manual says but I have yet to try.
This is a reply I typed in Dyxum:
QUOTE
Thanks for the report. One question I have is how well does bounce flash work with the F20AM given its relatively low guide number? Can one get adequate bounce flash coverage without resorting to high ISO? I normally use ISO 400 and shoot at f/4 to f/5.6 when using either my F42AM or my 5600HS(D) in bounce mode. Can this be done with the less powerful F20AM?
The... or rather, my primary use for this flash, is split into three categories:
1) casual events / parties
I will not bring any other flash, just camera, standard or wide zoom and F20. I'd use high ISO and bright apertures anyway to get the ambient light of the party in. It is likely I will use DIRECT flash and blend in plenty of ambient light to reduce the harshness. So, power is not an issue for me.
2) paid events / parties
If I am covering an event and I am paid to take photos, I am obviously not going to use the F20! The F58 is the man for the job.
3) paid shoots with off-camera flash
I probably won't use the F20 as a front light (my Strobist style rarely calls for dead-on front light.) So I don't need any power from the front.
According to the math, though:
F20 = 20 meters at 50mm ISO100 F1.0
So at F5.6 ISO400, the range at full 1/1 power, direct, is 40 meters / F5.6 = 7.14 meters. When bounced we divide it by 2 and get 3.57 meters. I think that's far enough for me, but I am not afraid to use ISO1600 so I get my 7.14 meters range.
I should be able to get an idea of its range hopefully this weekend. You can tell if the F20 fired full power; it does whirr like a F42.
it will more interesting if can trigger other flash when F20 (in bounce mode) mount on all alpha system. so can avoid the direct flash to subject.. hope u can test this also albnok with A200 n F42..
it will more interesting if can trigger other flash when F20 (in bounce mode) mount on all alpha system. so can avoid the direct flash to subject.. hope u can test this also albnok with A200 n F42..
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
I got myself the new Sony HVL-F20AM flash!
It's a quickly-foldable flash that turns off when it is flipped down.
It also turns off the moment you start turning the flash downwards so you can't use it at a halfway position.
It has a very nice, solid springy snappy feel. You will enjoy the tactile feedback from flipping it! I would say it feels 80% similiar to closing the HVL-F58AM flash stand. It has rubber padding on the front to prevent the A900's prism head from marking the flash.
It takes 2 AAA batteries.
When mounted on the Sony Alpha 900 (or any Alpha without a pop-up flash, according to the manual), it can control the Sony F36AM, F56AM, F42AM, and F58AM. However, the F20AM cannot be used as an off-camera flash. This is the first Alpha flash that can't.
The F20AM cannot control off-camera flashes when mounted on the A100/A200/A230/A300/A330/A350/A380/A700 as far as I know (and according to the manual) but I will update this post if I find that it actually can, tomorrow night...
Fortunately, the pop-up flash of the A100/A200/A230/A300/A330/A350/A380/A700 all can trigger off-camera flashes. So it's not a functionality that is strongly needed on those cameras anyway!
Off-camera Group Ratios
The F20AM cannot set off-camera group ratios even on the A900 but that is fine by me - ratios would need a complex interface on the back of the flash, like the F58AM, since the Alpha flash ratios are set on the flash and not the body. It's also meant to be simple to target the A230/A330/A380 market while throwing in a bonus for the A900 crowd.
Bonus Combination!
Nikon has a SU-800 unit which mounts on their flash mount, and triggers off-camera flashes. Nikon also sells a SB-400 flash which is small and can be set to bounce mode.
Canon has a ST-E4 unit which mounts on their flash mount, and triggers off-camera flashes. Canon also sells a 270EX flash which is small and can be set to bounce mode.
However, this Sony HVL-F20AM combines both the trigger unit and small flash into one! If you wanted to use both the SB-800 and SB-400 flash at the same time, you could not! If you wanted to use both the ST-E4 and 270EX flash at the same time, you could not!
Here it is, compared to my Sunpak PF20XD for size. Longer, thinner, just as wide.
There are only 3 switches on the F20AM - the DIRECT/BOUNCE switch, the TELE/WIDE switch and the ON/OFF switch (which is the swivel point.)
Setting the DIRECT/BOUNCE switch to DIRECT sets the flash to point forward, while BOUNCE points it up 75 degrees.
Setting the TELE/WIDE switch to TELE sets the flash zoom head to 35mm APS-C/50mm full-frame, while WIDE pulls a diffuser in front of the flash head, effectively making it 18mm APS-C/27mm full-frame.
Interestingly, and very cleverly, Sony designed it so that when you're in BOUNCE mode, and you set the TELE/WIDE switch to WIDE, the diffuser 'skips' past the flash zoom head so you cannot use BOUNCE and WIDE at the same time. In such a condition it would be the same as BOUNCE and TELE.
That said, you do not need to shoot BOUNCE and WIDE - when you bounce off a ceiling, the distance travelled makes the light spread out widely so it's already pretty much WIDE. If you use the wide panel diffuser on your other flashes while bouncing the flash off the ceiling, you are just wasting a lot of flash power!
And now, I can finally use my F58AM off-camera on my A900 - previously, I'd have to mount the F58AM on the A900 in order to trigger off-camera flashes! Thank you Sony for saving some wireless functionality for the A900!
waaaaaa... how much did it cost you albert? lemme knowwww.... hehehe... might get one... interesting too...
Joined: Jan 2003
From: The capital of Soviet Sarawak - Pusak City
QUOTE(Braynumb @ Jul 22 2009, 11:49 AM)
waaaa... damn nice price! congrats on the new purchase... how bout your F42AM? letting go? let me know k? hehehe... niceeee... me too! see you there! pm me your number! can contact you there... any guesses on how much it would cost??
millenia3000 : what do you mean by A200 pop-up not efficient? My previous exp with A200 and F42 is very satisfying, the wireless can be triggered "almost" anywhere and far away from the camera too
millenia3000 : what do you mean by A200 pop-up not efficient? My previous exp with A200 and F42 is very satisfying, the wireless can be triggered "almost" anywhere and far away from the camera too
k la den... maybe the location tak betul la den...
so fast la this thread. I'm no worry as newb so many alpha user here, can help me alot.
btw, just do some reading on photography mag; then pass by word; 'high-pass photography technique'.. can somebody expert brief on this ? is this photoshop 'photo-editting' technique or pure-photographer technique? kindly explain.
Wow gonna start with an a700 ar? Lol. But I feel abit wasted lo the F20 cant be triggered when tilting at 45degree or something. Should be quite cool if can. (:
hahaha... say hi to omar... tell him awg not in... he went out...
QUOTE(wei_joice @ Jul 22 2009, 03:21 PM)
Is time to buy A700 ??? since the price is so reasonable....
while some rumours spread tat the A850 and A550/A500 are coming soon
Better to grab A700 or wait for the new models release ?
Need advice....
Yessir it's time to get an a700... hehehe... and when the a850 comes out, get it for a 2nd body! kwang3
QUOTE(Kul | Mo0 @ Jul 22 2009, 03:27 PM)
Wow gonna start with an a700 ar? Lol. But I feel abit wasted lo the F20 cant be triggered when tilting at 45degree or something. Should be quite cool if can. (:
agreed... would make a real cool starter flash ho? hehehe...
Wow gonna start with an a700 ar? Lol. But I feel abit wasted lo the F20 cant be triggered when tilting at 45degree or something. Should be quite cool if can. (:
Is time to buy A700 ??? since the price is so reasonable....
while some rumours spread tat the A850 and A550/A500 are coming soon
Better to grab A700 or wait for the new models release ?
Need advice....
if you really need a700 now, you can always buy now.. but i would guess that the newer ones should be superior than a700 itself.. if not, sure they won't keluar lah..
disclaimer: solely my guess without any facts to lean on to.
Guys, i was thinking...since this is gonna be my first dslr...i dont mind getting a used a200...at least i can learn and collect the lenses then upgrade to a better body later. Anyone know who/where can get good condition used a200???
Joined: Jan 2003
From: The capital of Soviet Sarawak - Pusak City
QUOTE(Melv @ Jul 22 2009, 05:07 PM)
Guys, i was thinking...since this is gonna be my first dslr...i dont mind getting a used a200...at least i can learn and collect the lenses then upgrade to a better body later. Anyone know who/where can get good condition used a200???
i saw a used a200 as low as rm1050 last week. was snapped up within 1 hour
If the CF even available yet? I don't think it's out yet right?
here you go..
QUOTE(albnok @ Jul 22 2009, 04:30 AM)
I got myself the new Sony HVL-F20AM flash!
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
It's a quickly-foldable flash that turns off when it is flipped down.
It also turns off the moment you start turning the flash downwards so you can't use it at a halfway position.
It has a very nice, solid springy snappy feel. You will enjoy the tactile feedback from flipping it! I would say it feels 80% similiar to closing the HVL-F58AM flash stand. It has rubber padding on the front to prevent the A900's prism head from marking the flash.
It takes 2 AAA batteries.
When mounted on the Sony Alpha 900 (or any Alpha without a pop-up flash, according to the manual), it can control the Sony F36AM, F56AM, F42AM, and F58AM. However, the F20AM cannot be used as an off-camera flash. This is the first Alpha flash that can't.
The F20AM cannot control off-camera flashes when mounted on the A100/A200/A230/A300/A330/A350/A380/A700 as far as I know (and according to the manual) but I will update this post if I find that it actually can, tomorrow night...
Fortunately, the pop-up flash of the A100/A200/A230/A300/A330/A350/A380/A700 all can trigger off-camera flashes. So it's not a functionality that is strongly needed on those cameras anyway!
Off-camera Group Ratios
The F20AM cannot set off-camera group ratios even on the A900 but that is fine by me - ratios would need a complex interface on the back of the flash, like the F58AM, since the Alpha flash ratios are set on the flash and not the body. It's also meant to be simple to target the A230/A330/A380 market while throwing in a bonus for the A900 crowd.
Bonus Combination!
Nikon has a SU-800 unit which mounts on their flash mount, and triggers off-camera flashes. Nikon also sells a SB-400 flash which is small and can be set to bounce mode.
Canon has a ST-E4 unit which mounts on their flash mount, and triggers off-camera flashes. Canon also sells a 270EX flash which is small and can be set to bounce mode.
However, this Sony HVL-F20AM combines both the trigger unit and small flash into one! If you wanted to use both the SB-800 and SB-400 flash at the same time, you could not! If you wanted to use both the ST-E4 and 270EX flash at the same time, you could not!
Here it is, compared to my Sunpak PF20XD for size. Longer, thinner, just as wide.
There are only 3 switches on the F20AM - the DIRECT/BOUNCE switch, the TELE/WIDE switch and the ON/OFF switch (which is the swivel point.)
Setting the DIRECT/BOUNCE switch to DIRECT sets the flash to point forward, while BOUNCE points it up 75 degrees.
Setting the TELE/WIDE switch to TELE sets the flash zoom head to 35mm APS-C/50mm full-frame, while WIDE pulls a diffuser in front of the flash head, effectively making it 18mm APS-C/27mm full-frame.
Interestingly, and very cleverly, Sony designed it so that when you're in BOUNCE mode, and you set the TELE/WIDE switch to WIDE, the diffuser 'skips' past the flash zoom head so you cannot use BOUNCE and WIDE at the same time. In such a condition it would be the same as BOUNCE and TELE.
That said, you do not need to shoot BOUNCE and WIDE - when you bounce off a ceiling, the distance travelled makes the light spread out widely so it's already pretty much WIDE. If you use the wide panel diffuser on your other flashes while bouncing the flash off the ceiling, you are just wasting a lot of flash power!
And now, I can finally use my F58AM off-camera on my A900 - previously, I'd have to mount the F58AM on the A900 in order to trigger off-camera flashes! Thank you Sony for saving some wireless functionality for the A900!
Hmm.. so where has anyone seen the F20? I was at KLCC Sony Style this morning. It looked like they were going to get rid of the Alpha section like that.
Of course on sale la if not where albnok got his from? Lol.
Melv : Want my a200? So I can upgrade to a700. =p
hahahahahaha.....i dont mind if u give me good offer....pm me a 'proposal' plus info abt ur camera like how long u have been using it, warranty, shutter count and etc...
sumting comes up... personal matter... cannot join... T_T bro albnok! i'll pass u ur IR next TT round if u ok... i hope i didnt mess up any of ur plan just if u need to use it.. very sorry...
nearly extinct will become endangered species. that time very diff to find
Melv: Used ISO1600
wow...thats quite impressive....hardly can see noise....maybe need to pixel peep... .....i think a700 already extinct rdy...taken out from sony dslr list rdy...hahahahahaha....
guys,is it okay for me to use a bicycle tayar pump to blow my sensor? the pump head is inserted with this needle head
u will introduce millions of dust using that.. use blower design for the task la.. usual camera blower uses valve that prevent dust from being suck inside the blower when u tarik the air..
This post has been edited by amadeo: Jul 22 2009, 10:52 PM
May I know how much will a Shuttle Release cable cost? r they the same for all Alpha camera.... Was thinking to do a Stop Motion Video but need a steady tripod n shuttle release cable...
Any Steady But light (not too expensive) tripod to recommend?
u will introduce millions of dust using that.. use blower design for the task la.. usual camera blower uses valve that prevent dust from being suck inside the blower when u tarik the air..
Lately only I realised, that when i twist my SAL18-70, it gives me a "rough and sandy" feeling. Is that a sign of gear striping? Last time used to be smooth le.
Kul | Mo0: Yes, a loose push-pull makes it easy to make zoomy slow shutter effects. I had a Vivitar Series 1 28-105mm F2.8-3.8 for that.
The Minolta 75-300mm F4.5-5.6 Big Beercan is sharper than the Sony 75-300mm F4.5-5.6. However it is also a slow focuser (but with a nice focus limiter.)
MechaHerc: It is honestly not a big deal, you still have a pop-up flash.
So is the F58 or F20 more powerful as a wireless controller in bright daylight?
Casual testing method:
A900, manual mode, multi-segment metering, 1/200s F14 ISO200. Experiment was conducted from 1328-1340 hours +800 GMT. Minolta 24-105mm F3.5-4.5(D) set at 105mm. F56 flash lying on ground set to 1/4 power, 85mm flash zoom, with full CTO applied to make it 3200K, and a sheet of paper underneath to identify successful illumination.
It was a sunny day, but unfortunately there were clouds continuously passing, so the meter would go from -2 to 0 EV but never brighter than 0 EV.
F20 set on DIRECT and TELE (50mm).
F58 set on CTRL/CTRL2 mode, ratio "-:1", 50mm zoom, 0 degrees yaw, 0 degrees roll (no rotation.)
I would attempt to shoot when the clouds went away, and the meter read "0". Neither the F20 nor F58 could trigger the F56 when the sun was this bright.
When the meter dipped to -1 or darker, I could trigger the F56 using both the F20 and the F58. I am not sure of the exact distance as it varied due to me not bringing a tripod to work but I pretty much stood in the same place while swapping flashes.
This picture might give you a representation. It was shot when the meter read -1 EV. I would estimate that the sensor plane to subject was 2 meters (regretfully, I forgot to look at the distance meter...)
The F56 was picked because it has a less sensitive IR trigger at sharper angles compared to the F58 and F42 (I feel the difference but have not measured this.) Also, I don't have a F42 anymore.
My conclusion from this is that the F20 and F58 have similiar range when it comes to combating sunlight outdoors to send an infrared signal. However, the F58 with flash zoomed to 105mm should give it a bit of help!
went to camera shop in taiping just now...cant find a200 or a300 anymore...just a230,a330,a350...can anyone gimme the idea on comparing between the latest line up and the old one?where i can still get the old model a200/a300 r?hmmm...i heard sum ppl in the forum said that they new line up got less function...im not sure coz i never had any alpha b4...im really lookin 4ward to own one soon...shud i give it up now ?wait for the advance model next year n so on?hu3
Joined: Jan 2003
From: The capital of Soviet Sarawak - Pusak City
QUOTE(bennazis @ Jul 23 2009, 02:25 PM)
went to camera shop in taiping just now...cant find a200 or a300 anymore...just a230,a330,a350...can anyone gimme the idea on comparing between the latest line up and the old one?where i can still get the old model a200/a300 r?hmmm...i heard sum ppl in the forum said that they new line up got less function...im not sure coz i never had any alpha b4...im really lookin 4ward to own one soon...shud i give it up now ?wait for the advance model next year n so on?hu3
but that 1 the flash is static.... what i meant can the flash trigger while on the air?
rasanya dapat.. must be can la... pleaseeeee... hehehe... planning to do a skateboarding/rollerblading photoshoot sometime next month... need my flash to be able to perform... hehehe...
Ahahahaha... I knew you'd be interested... hehehe... the exact date has not been set yet... still working out my schedule... but what's most important is that it's after our flash workshop la... hehehehe... kan2??
but that 1 the flash is static.... what i meant can the flash trigger while on the air?
interesting question.. later tonight i test lah!~ I bet should be no problem triggering while on air.. the light travel very fast, human eye couldn't even catch em..
tried it already wo... when I was using my ex-430EX... some people in other forum said can... but I tried, kenot wo... how?
different technology nih.. will try out alpha first.. even Nokin CLS is also hard to trigger (statically of course) compared to Sony WL inikan pula in motion.. well, dunno yet!~
haven't tried Nokin's CLS too... hard to separate my friends from their flashes... but some peeps in other forums, used their 430EX with a100 with success... really frustrated me out... already got my 1st F42AM... next will be to find a F58AM and another F42AM... gonna light up my shots like it's new year fire cracker time...
This post has been edited by Braynumb: Jul 23 2009, 04:45 PM
I think my SAL18-70 gonna "kong" anytime dy. If still under warranty can I just go to any sony style shops and ask them check? Caus this cam not registered under my name le.
I think my SAL18-70 gonna "kong" anytime dy. If still under warranty can I just go to any sony style shops and ask them check? Caus this cam not registered under my name le.
IMHO .. Shud not be a problem as long as the len still under valid Sony M'sia warranty they only need to check on serial no. ..
So what other accessories from Sony are real cool?
The new LCS-WR1AM wrapping cloth, that's what! I got one in brown. It's like a bag for your camera, but foldable!
The Japanese are very clever - this might've been something from their Origami books!
Here, it wraps a Sony Alpha 900 body with Minolta 24-105mm F3.5-4.5(D) lens and Sony HVL-F58AM flash. Perfect general-purpose combo (which isn't as chunky as the Sony Carl Zeiss 24-70mm F2.8 SSM.)
The ring at the end, is an elastic band that can catch onto the lens. Practice will tell you whether to put the camera more towards the center or towards the sides, so that the elastic band will wrap around the lens nicely.
Here, it wraps a Sony Alpha 900 body with Minolta 24-105mm F3.5-4.5(D) lens and Sony HVL-F20AM flash. Perfect social event/party combo! (Alternatively, a smaller Minolta/Sony 50mm F1.4 can be used...)
Of course, it is not limited to small lenses - here it wraps a Sony Alpha 900 body with Sony Carl Zeiss 135mm F1.8 lens.
It would've fit the Sony HVL-F20AM flash in as well, but the HVL-F58AM flash would not fit, so it would go into its own belt pouch. Which isn't half bad because you don't need to carry any camera bags at all! I don't find it fashionable to be walking around with a huge backpack, looking like a turtle in the process (I've always been a fan of sling bags.)
There is, however, the Optimus Prime trailer paradox... where does the cloth go when it's unwrapped?
In Live View modes of some DSLRs (excluding the Alphas - hence the off-topic), the mirror and shutter flips back down while focusing so that the AF sensor can be used, then flips back up so that Live View can be resumed. So wouldn't such a system add yet more wear-and-tear on the shutter?
thanks! really can't wait to go to the flash workshop... hehehe...
QUOTE(albnok @ Jul 23 2009, 05:15 PM)
Braynumb: As long as it can, or it can bounce off another surface, into the sensor, then it will trigger.
hmm... wonder why the 430EX didn't want to fire... tried bounce light, tried direct... none of them seemed to work... hmm... could it be that the flash's sensor was broken??
Guys, yest i went scouting....bintang maju in summit quoted RM1599 for a200 single kit lens + 4gb cf (pendrive with 40mb/s writing speed) and a bag (it was a nikon bag, lol! it seems he dont have sony bag..hahaha!) Is this price ok? and then, right in front of the shop, sony was setting up a kiosk booth, it seems they having some promo and sales today till sunday....and i saw the 'glorious' alpha logo on the booth....can they offer better price, or their pricing will be the same like sony style? thx guys....
I doubt the price would be any different from SS.. usually they open on behalf of the store anyway... so, they don't quite have the authority to lower prices...
I doubt the price would be any different from SS.. usually they open on behalf of the store anyway... so, they don't quite have the authority to lower prices...
Ic....i'll try to go today n see what they can offer...thx for the info btw...
Here's one I took yesterday after getting my Flash, it's not any better or worse than any other Flash indoors. But it's bouncable and easy to carry around.
You should probably only get it if you want the portability and you don't need the range, power or flexibility of a cobra.
Added on July 24, 2009, 10:49 am
QUOTE(albnok @ Jul 24 2009, 02:07 AM)
So what other accessories from Sony are real cool?
The new LCS-WR1AM wrapping cloth, that's what! I got one in brown. It's like a bag for your camera, but foldable!
The Japanese are very clever - this might've been something from their Origami books!
Hey.. that's a neat trick.. so where did you find this, and how much? Guess I was paying too much attention at the HVL-F20AM yesterday at the curve to notice this. Is the material slighlty padded? Does it look water RETARDANT? (so it doesn't absorb water into the camera is it gets splashed)
Added on July 24, 2009, 10:50 am
QUOTE(jonjwlee @ Jul 24 2009, 06:31 AM)
Sorry to take this slightly off-topic.
In Live View modes of some DSLRs (excluding the Alphas - hence the off-topic), the mirror and shutter flips back down while focusing so that the AF sensor can be used, then flips back up so that Live View can be resumed. So wouldn't such a system add yet more wear-and-tear on the shutter?
Well if you ask the other camera's users they'll tell you that their Live View cannot be used for practical photography anyway and hence they don't use it all that much.
This post has been edited by marauderz: Jul 24 2009, 10:50 AM
haven't tried Nokin's CLS too... hard to separate my friends from their flashes... but some peeps in other forums, used their 430EX with a100 with success... really frustrated me out... already got my 1st F42AM... next will be to find a F58AM and another F42AM... gonna light up my shots like it's new year fire cracker time...
i have played with nokin csl before (most of my strobist friends use nokin system) and the rate of not triggering is higher than alpha wireless, especially with sb-600.
QUOTE(jonjwlee @ Jul 24 2009, 06:31 AM)
Sorry to take this slightly off-topic.
In Live View modes of some DSLRs (excluding the Alphas - hence the off-topic), the mirror and shutter flips back down while focusing so that the AF sensor can be used, then flips back up so that Live View can be resumed. So wouldn't such a system add yet more wear-and-tear on the shutter?
yes they do
This post has been edited by soulfly: Jul 24 2009, 11:01 AM
Guys, yest i went scouting....bintang maju in summit quoted RM1599 for a200 single kit lens + 4gb cf (pendrive with 40mb/s writing speed) and a bag (it was a nikon bag, lol! it seems he dont have sony bag..hahaha!) Is this price ok? and then, right in front of the shop, sony was setting up a kiosk booth, it seems they having some promo and sales today till sunday....and i saw the 'glorious' alpha logo on the booth....can they offer better price, or their pricing will be the same like sony style? thx guys....
hey i bought my A200 there...price ok...but i kena tipu on UV lens, they sell it to me at Rm70..n im so stupid, bought it! ...then i check at lelong.com its was only RM22.00. Do some argument, they replace me 4GB memory card.
Here's one I took yesterday after getting my Flash, it's not any better or worse than any other Flash indoors. But it's bouncable and easy to carry around.
You should probably only get it if you want the portability and you don't need the range, power or flexibility of a cobra.
congrats on your buy.. yupp, if using F42 pun, most likely use 1/16 or at most 1/8 je..
For night shooting with 2 F58 right. How to i create a picture like only a "circle" of light is created ar? 45degree at both sides?
You will need some sort of light modifiers. It's next to impossible to create a 'circle' of light when the output from the flash tube is never circular to begin with. Fired from a distance the flash output lights up an area more like a diamond shape rather than a circle.
You put 2 diamond shapes together and you still won't get any closer to a circle at any angle. An umbrella might help as the umbrella is circular is shape. Bounce your flash off it and you would have much better luck in getting a circle of light.
yup i agree, a snoot will do the trick of getting round light, google around, couple of way u can do snoot, i prefer the straw way of doing it... it's tedious, if u wan easy, just wrap paper will still do it, but sometimes not as round as u wanted
Same to me la. Have to make snoot later. MUST use black straws or any boloured ones will do?
better use black, ya same length... colour later got colour cast come out... erm... maybe McD straw will give u disco light red, yellow i never try b4 ler
jonjwlee: Yes, flipping the mirror down and closing the shutter to use phase-detect AF in Live View (on other cameras besides Alpha) does wear out your shutter.
Braynumb: You need to use a Canon ST-E4, 580EX or 580EXII on camera, to trigger an off-camera 430EX. The pop-up flash cannot - none of the Canons can do this.
melv: It is likely that they are a Sony Center. The Sony Style outlets can only sell at retail price. Sony Center outlets are owned by another company and you can read who owns the shop, on their signboard.
marauderz: The manual does not say it's water resistant but we'll see. I doubt it is especially since I fold it leaving the neck strap out as a vulnerable entry point.
Kul | Mo0: Do you mean a tiny concentrated spot of light, or an eclipse?
If you're going for the eclipse look, aim the flashes slightly behind the subject. Like what I did with your camera at Rasta, just without the front flash coming in the picture (using HSS).
You should set the modelling mode to TESTM (Test button triggers multiple flashes for 4 seconds) and move the flash around the subject to see how the light is shaped.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
Camera Make: SONY Camera Model: DSLR-A300 Image Date: 2009:07:02 09:41:16 Flash Used: No Focal Length: 18.0mm (35mm equivalent: 27mm) Exposure Time: 0.0016 s (1/640) Aperture: f/11.0 ISO equiv: 100 White Balance: Auto Metering Mode: Spot Exposure: aperture priority (semi-auto)
i have played with nokin csl before (most of my strobist friends use nokin system) and the rate of not triggering is higher than alpha wireless, especially with sb-600.
Oooo... SB-600 interests me... never knew that Nokin flashes hav the sensors on the side instead of the front... hehehe... didn't get to try it though...
QUOTE(Shazril @ Jul 24 2009, 12:53 PM)
the title is 'once was beautiful'. kinda tired of shooting 'lively' flower .
your picture title is cun... but the picture really is kinda awkward... hehehe...
QUOTE(albnok @ Jul 24 2009, 02:34 PM)
Braynumb: You need to use a Canon ST-E4, 580EX or 580EXII on camera, to trigger an off-camera 430EX. The pop-up flash cannot - none of the Canons can do this.
No wonder the 350D also couldn't trigger it off camera... haiyer... maybe the guy in the other forum meant the 430EX II??
Braynumb, even if you had a 350D and 430EX II, you would not be able to trigger it wirelessly unless you have the ST-E4, 580EX or 580EX II on the 350D.
ouch my eyes!! never open your eyes when u want to test full power
though i knew you would be like after the flash flashes - like what shootkk have mentioned, i like to play 1/1 with my friends (well sometimes my wife)..
me: "ok, close your eyes"
them: slowly close their eyes "why?"
me: press the test button
them: "ouch! panas muka!"
me: "hahahaha"
not only bright light (at least they closed their eyes) but can also feel the heat
Braynumb: No, the 430EX does not have an optical slave mode built in. So you cannot trigger it with anything other than the ST-E4, 580EX or 580EX II (in TTL modes.)
You can buy a cheap optical slave trigger that mounts on the 430EX foot. However, the 430EX will have to be in manual power and so will the F42.
albnok: ok... so, meaning is, if I were to trigger a 430EX with my sony, I'd at least need a F42AM on my camera?
no conan flash has optical slave function. the only nokin flash with slave function is sb-800 and sb-900 (su-4 mode). sb-600 cannot use at all.
even triggering sb-800/sb-900 has issues with synchronization. flash will fire, but sometimes it just does not sync with your exposure. if you use manual flash on the pop-up (a700 only), flash sync is not a problem if you use flashgun on your camera set to manual power, flash sync is not a problem too however, if you intend to mix sony wireless with slave flashes like sb-800/sb-900, sometimes it will sync, sometimes it does not. i think you have to make the sb-800/900 'learn' the wireless TTL signal on Alpha before you can use them... but i have not really experiment this yet.
This post has been edited by soulfly: Jul 24 2009, 07:20 PM
Suddenly had the urge to get a full frame camera... luckily I cannot afford it... lol...
Guys, is the Tamron 70-200 f2.8 a good lens ah? I need a superzoom lens... but on the other hand, should I get a macro lens instead? Like the SP90.
Tam 70200 a good lens...a good portrait lens too. If u r too keen on macro than sp90 but generally my sp90 is underutilised. Shoot oncein a while only.
Urge for full frame? A900? I was surprised of the a900 capability esp in raw format...yesterday I shot with no flashgun iso1600 lowlight ....in a dewan (anak wayang ...employed by diyana's sister), I was soo surprised that i can hardly find any noise.
Tam 70200 a good lens...a good portrait lens too. If u r too keen on macro than sp90 but generally my sp90 is underutilised. Shoot oncein a while only.
Urge for full frame? A900? I was surprised of the a900 capability esp in raw format...yesterday I shot with no flashgun iso1600 lowlight ....in a dewan (anak wayang ...employed by diyana's sister), I was soo surprised that i can hardly find any noise.
haha boss... so what new project you doing ? faster post some picture to poison ppl la.
Added on July 24, 2009, 7:39 pmBtw ... today i went to a shop. A700 left two box at Zaloon. A700+18-70mm kit lens.
After this shouldn't have any more stock left.
This post has been edited by Ahmike: Jul 24 2009, 07:39 PM
Guys i just bot my first slr! Wohooooo........RM1599 - A200 single kit lens + 4gb cf (pendrive @ 40mb/s) + bag + digi eye tripod! That fella tried to con me by selling filter and screen protector at RM120...i was like wth? but i said no la....now...i am having problem to register this baby online, it says "Invalid Product Model or Serial No_1"....anyone can help me please? btw...batt is charging now...cannot shoot yet...hehehehehe!
Hey there guys... After much snooping around in my (very limited nowadays) free time, I found out that the normal, single cell Alpha charger is the BC-VM10.
Anybody know where I can get one (or two - spare, I'm seriously dying without being able to snap... at all)? Anybody can help me ask a Sony Centre about it?
As for myself, the nearest Sony Centre with adequate Alpha Accessories lineup is at least 3 hours away and I can't get off work - even tomorrow...
The two cell charger is a no-go. It's heavy, huge and frig expensive...
This post has been edited by Eiraku: Jul 24 2009, 08:17 PM
Hi, Do u guys found out that recent news photos on Lowyat.net home page is a bit different compare to lasttime? Pretty sharp. News for the Sony Visa, Kaspersky, Philips , Jabra looks like taken with the same camera... from the orangez camp?
Guys i just bot my first slr! Wohooooo........RM1599 - A200 single kit lens + 4gb cf (pendrive @ 40mb/s) + bag + digi eye tripod! That fella tried to con me by selling filter and screen protector at RM120...i was like wth? but i said no la....now...i am having problem to register this baby online, it says "Invalid Product Model or Serial No_1"....anyone can help me please? btw...batt is charging now...cannot shoot yet...hehehehehe!
Just give a call to the Sony Support line... then register by the phone in 5min will be done.
Guys i just bot my first slr! Wohooooo........RM1599 - A200 single kit lens + 4gb cf (pendrive @ 40mb/s) + bag + digi eye tripod! That fella tried to con me by selling filter and screen protector at RM120...i was like wth? but i said no la....now...i am having problem to register this baby online, it says "Invalid Product Model or Serial No_1"....anyone can help me please? btw...batt is charging now...cannot shoot yet...hehehehehe!
where did u get it?im going to hv my own alpha soon...mau angkat a200 gak...but the shop u bougt ur alpha can do credit card installment r?wat kind of bag that they gave u?a sony?
Guys i just bot my first slr! Wohooooo........RM1599 - A200 single kit lens + 4gb cf (pendrive @ 40mb/s) + bag + digi eye tripod! That fella tried to con me by selling filter and screen protector at RM120...i was like wth? but i said no la....now...i am having problem to register this baby online, it says "Invalid Product Model or Serial No_1"....anyone can help me please? btw...batt is charging now...cannot shoot yet...hehehehehe!
congrats bro....u r alpharian now... my frens also bot his 1st DSLR A200 yesterday....last set frm photo edar...
any1 can help introduce me to any gud shop to buy a200 ?where i can do credit card installment?ill be in kl this friday and sunday...plzzz..
Added on July 24, 2009, 10:02 pmany1 can help introduce me to any gud shop to buy a200 ?where i can do credit card installment?ill be in kl this friday and sunday...plzzz..
This post has been edited by bennazis: Jul 24 2009, 10:02 PM
any1 can help introduce me to any gud shop to buy a200 ?where i can do credit card installment?ill be in kl this friday and sunday...plzzz..
Added on July 24, 2009, 10:02 pmany1 can help introduce me to any gud shop to buy a200 ?where i can do credit card installment?ill be in kl this friday and sunday...plzzz..
where did u get it?im going to hv my own alpha soon...mau angkat a200 gak...but the shop u bougt ur alpha can do credit card installment r?wat kind of bag that they gave u?a sony?
i got it in bintang maju summit usj...i think they can do a credit card payment....bag normal one ni la, olympus tag on it...but it looks like some cheapo bag...
why do you need 200mm and why do you need macro? if u can answer that then u know which to get ..... both are different purpose lenses
Actually I need both lah... just no money only. 70-200 is more practical I think...
QUOTE(hanafinoor @ Jul 24 2009, 07:30 PM)
Tam 70200 a good lens...a good portrait lens too. If u r too keen on macro than sp90 but generally my sp90 is underutilised. Shoot oncein a while only.
Urge for full frame? A900? I was surprised of the a900 capability esp in raw format...yesterday I shot with no flashgun iso1600 lowlight ....in a dewan (anak wayang ...employed by diyana's sister), I was soo surprised that i can hardly find any noise.
Hahaha... urge is urge... no money... RM9k wor, of course no noise
QUOTE(neo_lam @ Jul 24 2009, 08:14 PM)
just go for Sony 70-200 lah....little G...
U rich people... how can compare.... me tamron enough.
5.5k oni what sig... a few weddings edi then can get edi kan...
lol.. the prob is, i don't really do wedding jobs.. just tag along for free maa.. still have no confident to do the job and of course, my pp skills is not that great..
but if wanna kumpul my gaji, maybe gonna take a few years la kot
Tam 70200 a good lens...a good portrait lens too. If u r too keen on macro than sp90 but generally my sp90 is underutilised. Shoot oncein a while only.
Indeed. I have both and it serves its purposes well. Tam 70200 is sharp at f4 and above, though its AF hunts sometimes. Go manual, its rewarding. Macro with SP90 is enjoyable. A good potrait lens too.
This post has been edited by tubik: Jul 25 2009, 01:11 AM
guys....noob question here, under the M mode, why the Exposure cant be adjusted? how to adjust it?
M mode u set the shutter and aperture ur own...so the exposure is up to u how u want it....do read up the manual....i think the manual covers the M mode as well if not mistaken....
M mode u set the shutter and aperture ur own...so the exposure is up to u how u want it....do read up the manual....i think the manual covers the M mode as well if not mistaken....
ya i did, once i put into M mode, the ev goes to metering mode...so i calculates the exposure automatically....so i cant seem to change it...
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
Camera Make: SONY Camera Model: DSLR-A300 Image Date: 2009:07:24 22:40:33 Flash Used: No Focal Length: 18.0mm (35mm equivalent: 27mm) Exposure Time: 0.067 s (1/15) Aperture: f/3.5 ISO equiv: 400 White Balance: Auto Metering Mode: Spot Exposure: aperture priority (semi-auto)
This post has been edited by cjlai: Jul 25 2009, 02:11 AM
ya i did, once i put into M mode, the ev goes to metering mode...so i calculates the exposure automatically....so i cant seem to change it...
M Mode is my fav really... i had that doubt once my self... how come cant change EV when in M... but that's cos we set the aperture and shutter already... but i dun see why you'd wanna change EV when in M...i mean... u play la wit shutter or aperture, ikut what you want... want more DOF play wit aperture... if not play wit shutter la... k melv, dis was my super noob explanation....
probably the EV meter indicator thrown way off the meter scale already (too underexposed or too overexposed), that's why you can't see it on the meter. just keep on dialing to get it in the meter.
ya i did, once i put into M mode, the ev goes to metering mode...so i calculates the exposure automatically....so i cant seem to change it...
u cant change like u do in A or P mode.. u change is sumthing like this..
u must know wat F u want to use 1st.. for eg: i take some potrait so F4 maybe suitable then i dial the Shutter until EV pointing to 0.. (if i want more brighter i dial the shutter until the EV go to +2)
n vice versa u also can switch to the F dial give a try..
I use SP90 for a beauty pagent contest shoot.. it;s damn sharp. miss out some shoot becoz it's slow (I know, becoz it's a Macro).. .. but I still happy with it If u have time with the model.. then this should not be a problem..
SP90
this one shoot with 50mm 1.4.
C&C are welcome
This post has been edited by hkhk: Jul 25 2009, 12:32 PM
M Mode is my fav really... i had that doubt once my self... how come cant change EV when in M... but that's cos we set the aperture and shutter already... but i dun see why you'd wanna change EV when in M...i mean... u play la wit shutter or aperture, ikut what you want... want more DOF play wit aperture... if not play wit shutter la... k melv, dis was my super noob explanation....
thx bro, after posting the noob question here....did a few shots and got the exposure rite....without adjusting the EV....hehehehehehe....thx btw....
Added on July 25, 2009, 2:21 pmGuys thx for all the replies...as MechaHerc explained....i learned that by trial and error....lol! talking about learning the hard way.....hahahahaha!
This post has been edited by Melv: Jul 25 2009, 02:21 PM
based from user feedbacks/comparisons, they should all perform similar. just different exterior only. but personally i think the bower version looks better, almost like a sigma lens. check out alphanatics under buy sell section.
hkhk, on the first shot how do u set up your flash?
If not mistaken it's about 75 degree + the build in bounce card., 24mm zoom, ADI-TTL... but becoz the model is elevated.. so the actually angle should be straight to the ceiling (it's normal ceiling height)
This post has been edited by hkhk: Jul 25 2009, 05:30 PM
Braynumb: No, the 430EX does not have an optical slave mode built in. So you cannot trigger it with anything other than the ST-E4, 580EX or 580EX II (in TTL modes.)
You can buy a cheap optical slave trigger that mounts on the 430EX foot. However, the 430EX will have to be in manual power and so will the F42.
So, you mean that even though the manual-slave switch is turned to slave, I'd still need the ST-E4? that's inconvenient...
QUOTE(kopitiam @ Jul 24 2009, 04:39 PM)
can borrow your 50mm or not?
Eh... tiba2 jak mok borrow... hehehe... what's the occasion??
Joined: Jan 2003
From: The capital of Soviet Sarawak - Pusak City
QUOTE(ahtsong @ Jul 25 2009, 06:03 PM)
thanks..and as u wish typical Santorini pic - FIRA town
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
typical Santorini pic - known to be the best sunset in the world - OIA Sunset
don believe, see so much ppl are waiting for the sunset
and the blue root church
and the blue root church
and more
C&C are always welcome. minor ppl with resize and level adjustment.
i like the blue sky
QUOTE(Braynumb @ Jul 25 2009, 06:05 PM)
So, you mean that even though the manual-slave switch is turned to slave, I'd still need the ST-E4? that's inconvenient... Eh... tiba2 jak mok borrow... hehehe... what's the occasion?? Waaaahhhh... jauh lagi tu bang.... kipidap!
mok pakai camwhore jak
QUOTE(AlphaBeta @ Jul 25 2009, 10:05 PM)
if using such lens to camwhore...will my face looks distorted?
yes.. but u can fit more ppl into the frame
QUOTE(MechaHerc @ Jul 25 2009, 10:07 PM)
where all the alpha go? seems quite here..... *some dust round dry grass rolling passing by~~*
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Somewhere on a planet called EARTH
anyone managed to get sonyto repair the flash mount even if the body already out of warranty period? just got a f42 but found that it's slightly loose, got some play when it's mounted on.
Zeegon: The F42/F56/F58 cannot be triggered by the Sunpak PF20XD. None of the Alpha flashes have the Optical Slave Trigger mode, but it does have Wireless Slave (which means it needs a signal specifically from an Alpha pop-up flash, a F58 (on A700/A900) or a F20 (on A900).
However, my Sunpak PF20XD comes with a Optical Slave Trigger and Optical Slave Trigger With Pre-flash mode so it can be triggered by ANY flash on ANY camera.
Thanks to all, i just wondering where to get cheap telephoto lenses for a200 ?
how cheap do you consider cheap?
these telephotos are at about rm400~550 used - sony 55-200 f4-5.6 - sony 75-300 f4.5-5.6 - minolta 70-210 f4-5.6 - minolta 75-300 f4.5-5.6 (a few variants) - minolta 100-200 f4.5 - minolta 100-300 f4.5-5.6 (normal non-APO version)
or you can get brand new Tamron 70-300 f4-5.6 which is about RM7xx (RM754 at Yamiya). avoid sigma 70-300 apo if possible due to some reliability issues.
Added on July 26, 2009, 11:34 am
QUOTE(AlphaBeta @ Jul 25 2009, 10:05 PM)
if using such lens to camwhore...will my face looks distorted?
definitely. it'll make your face look a bit cuter too (larger nose).
This post has been edited by soulfly: Jul 26 2009, 11:34 AM
Zeegon: The F42/F56/F58 cannot be triggered by the Sunpak PF20XD. None of the Alpha flashes have the Optical Slave Trigger mode, but it does have Wireless Slave (which means it needs a signal specifically from an Alpha pop-up flash, a F58 (on A700/A900) or a F20 (on A900).
However, my Sunpak PF20XD comes with a Optical Slave Trigger and Optical Slave Trigger With Pre-flash mode so it can be triggered by ANY flash on ANY camera.
Braynumb: Yes it is mighty inconvenient.
Albnok - Once again, thanks alot for the detailed explanation.
gizmo_pony - Congrats on buying an Alpha. Remember to take a look at alphanatics.com yea? You can get some decent telephoto lens here too. What is your budget anyway?
but i would prefer to include more sky n take away some shadow from the ground...cos somehow i feel that there is too much shadow in this shot..the sky is brilliant anyway =D
but i would prefer to include more sky n take away some shadow from the ground...cos somehow i feel that there is too much shadow in this shot..the sky is brilliant anyway =D
thanks for comment, but this shoot are taking using tripod with timer. try hard to make the sun in between me and my wife
wow, guess i need to get the original 1, but then again do u guys use the diffuser with TTL & auto zoom settings on your flash unit?
well for the dragonfly brand, physically the diffuser is white in colour but once u flashed with it, the output will turn tungsten. well, i been using it for a couple of months btw.
before I continue processing more, want to ask whether the following 3 photos after processed from RAW suite your eyes - especially on the exposure and white balance (please look at the photo as whole, not just the subjects )
All the following 3, I only adjusted the EV from +0.67 to +1
wow, guess i need to get the original 1, but then again do u guys use the diffuser with TTL & auto zoom settings on your flash unit? well for the dragonfly brand, physically the diffuser is white in colour but once u flashed with it, the output will turn tungsten. well, i been using it for a couple of months btw.
how u check bro? me hard to see the different...
QUOTE(chiggy @ Jul 26 2009, 09:10 PM)
hi all....
before I continue processing more, want to ask whether the following 3 photos after processed from RAW suite your eyes - especially on the exposure and white balance (please look at the photo as whole, not just the subjects )
All the following 3, I only adjusted the EV from +0.67 to +1
for me the skin tones color n lighting n WB seems well balance *hmm.. where i put the my tissue, my nose start bleeding a little*
before I continue processing more, want to ask whether the following 3 photos after processed from RAW suite your eyes - especially on the exposure and white balance (please look at the photo as whole, not just the subjects )
All the following 3, I only adjusted the EV from +0.67 to +1
personally i dislike the skintone, but that's just my taste. try use the eye white as your wb correction point... see what's the result like.
anyone know small ball head that had same size screw with f58 screw that can screw on the f58 stand? i want buy for my latest toy.......
Try Digicolor. I got one from them quite some time back. It's a tiny ball head that I can mount on my light stand and have the F58 stand mounted on the other end.
haha...u had to make the choice..or get 2470 + uwa...that solves the prob?? =p
btw guys...am i correct to say that..any usb to mini usb cable works the same to transfer our files out from the camera??coz i thinking of getting an extra cable..always forget to take it out with me...
kit lens replacement =.= i'm also having hard time to choose btw tamron 1750 cz1680 sal 16105 sigma 1770 sigma 2470 how to choose?
for me:
tamron 1750 - nice constant aperture, QC abit scary (focusing issue), noisy cz1680 - super good range, nice aperture and Zeiss printed on...i will save $ for this lens but RM2k+ for a DT lens, sal 16105 - super super good range but i heard f/5.6 starts at 55mm, anyone to clarify this? sigma 1770 - nice lens, sharp and fun to play with, cheap too, but the EX (IINM) finishing is sigma 2470 - super heavy ...if i were to buy this, it will be the latest 2470 HSM coz heard that its good...
conclusion- save for 1680 or just make use of ur kitlens hehe
kit lens replacement =.= i'm also having hard time to choose btw tamron 1750 cz1680 sal 16105 sigma 1770 sigma 2470 how to choose?
i would pull out sigma 2470 for sure - as it gears tends to stripped - and some more, a700 have faster focusing power!~ ermm, if i'm not mistaken, albert's 1770 got its gear stripped before.. that left Sonys and Tamrons..
haha...u had to make the choice..or get 2470 + uwa...that solves the prob?? =p btw guys...am i correct to say that..any usb to mini usb cable works the same to transfer our files out from the camera??coz i thinking of getting an extra cable..always forget to take it out with me...
i am using my olympus cable to transfer ..i tried using some cheapo cable without the booster (the round thing i supposed) and its DARN slow...
haha...u had to make the choice..or get 2470 + uwa...that solves the prob?? =p btw guys...am i correct to say that..any usb to mini usb cable works the same to transfer our files out from the camera??coz i thinking of getting an extra cable..always forget to take it out with me...
2470+uwa lol thats around 4k! haha
QUOTE(Sp00kY @ Jul 27 2009, 11:56 AM)
for me:
tamron 1750 - nice constant aperture, QC abit scary (focusing issue), noisy cz1680 - super good range, nice aperture and Zeiss printed on...i will save $ for this lens but RM2k+ for a DT lens, sal 16105 - super super good range but i heard f/5.6 starts at 55mm, anyone to clarify this? sigma 1770 - nice lens, sharp and fun to play with, cheap too, but the EX (IINM) finishing is sigma 2470 - super heavy ...if i were to buy this, it will be the latest 2470 HSM coz heard that its good...
conclusion- save for 1680 or just make use of ur kitlens hehe
2470 HSM is almost 4k ler, If i were to buy that, i rather save a few more months to get cz2470 haha but thats too far to reach.
QUOTE(croomaniac @ Jul 27 2009, 11:56 AM)
i would pull out sigma 2470 for sure - as it gears tends to stripped - and some more, a700 have faster focusing power!~ ermm, if i'm not mistaken, albert's 1770 got its gear stripped before.. that left Sonys and Tamrons..
albert got 1770? actually gear strip will only occur when u put the lens in MF and the body in AF right? or am i wrong? need to call kysham to test his 2470 again! lets organise a tt to test out kit lens replacement
achew: Yes, any USB to Micro B should work. Mini B is a different plug.
croomaniac: I never ever had a Sigma 17-70mm F2.8-4.5 EX DC. I had a Sigma 17-35mm F2.8-4 EX non-DG which had its gears stripped.
tanjq87: There are many theories to why gear stripping happens - temperature, oil, mishandling of the AF/MF clutch. However my 17-35mm was internal focus and had no clutch (like a classic Minolta lens). Also, some lenses are just very prone to it, while some have never experienced it. I just take it to cheap plastic used in the geartrain and gear ratios that can exert wear/tear on the geartrain.
For the record, I have only ever owned one APS-C lens - the Sony 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT. After selling my A100 + kit lens, I got the Sigma 17-35mm which is a full-frame ultra wide angle.
For all those using APS-C sensor you would need to seriously re-think the 24-70mm range. It is not nearly wide enough on the wide end. 24mm in FF equates to 36mm in APS-C. The angle of view is almost like a 50mm in FF. Although you would still find some uses to it you will have difficulty in trying to get large group (i.e. more than 3 persons in a row) to fit in when you are in cramped quarters.
The 70mm on the tele end is not tele enough for decent runway coverage when shooting models. You guys with 18-70mm should know how it feels like.
I dunno about you guys but the 24-70mm range is severely limited by the APS-C sensor. You get an expensive lens that is neither here nor there. For landscapes it not wide at all. For events is it just outside the usable wide range and for runways it's not long enough! Frustrations all around. Most practical is to use for portraits but given the price I would rather go for the 50mm F1.4
If you have the money you would be better served with a 16-35mm for the APS-C
That's the reason the 17-50mm F2.8 is such a popular choice among APS-C users.
P.S. Albnok has the 17-35mm sigma and had experienced stripped gears with that lens.
achew: Yes, any USB to Micro B should work. Mini B is a different plug.
croomaniac: I never ever had a Sigma 17-70mm F2.8-4.5 EX DC. I had a Sigma 17-35mm F2.8-4 EX non-DG which had its gears stripped.
tanjq87: There are many theories to why gear stripping happens - temperature, oil, mishandling of the AF/MF clutch. However my 17-35mm was internal focus and had no clutch (like a classic Minolta lens). Also, some lenses are just very prone to it, while some have never experienced it. I just take it to cheap plastic used in the geartrain and gear ratios that can exert wear/tear on the geartrain.
For the record, I have only ever owned one APS-C lens - the Sony 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT. After selling my A100 + kit lens, I got the Sigma 17-35mm which is a full-frame ultra wide angle.
oh, so better don't get the lens that are prone to gear stripping. I always thought it's only mishandling of the AF/MF clutch. Do cz1680, sal16105 and sigma 1770 have the MF overwrite mechanism? So far I know tamron 1750 has no such mechanism.
QUOTE(shootkk @ Jul 27 2009, 01:33 PM)
Guys,
For all those using APS-C sensor you would need to seriously re-think the 24-70mm range. It is not nearly wide enough on the wide end. 24mm in FF equates to 36mm in APS-C. The angle of view is almost like a 50mm in FF. Although you would still find some uses to it you will have difficulty in trying to get large group (i.e. more than 3 persons in a row) to fit in when you are in cramped quarters.
The 70mm on the tele end is not tele enough for decent runway coverage when shooting models. You guys with 18-70mm should know how it feels like.
I dunno about you guys but the 24-70mm range is severely limited by the APS-C sensor. You get an expensive lens that is neither here nor there. For landscapes it not wide at all. For events is it just outside the usable wide range and for runways it's not long enough! Frustrations all around. Most practical is to use for portraits but given the price I would rather go for the 50mm F1.4
If you have the money you would be better served with a 16-35mm for the APS-C
That's the reason the 17-50mm F2.8 is such a popular choice among APS-C users.
P.S. Albnok has the 17-35mm sigma and had experienced stripped gears with that lens.
36mm and 50mm is still very different la.. maybe i should tape my 1870 to 24 and walkaround but true la, one of the most important question i always ask myself. "Can I live with the widest 24mm?" "Would I regret after getting 2470?" I guess you answered my questions. Yes I think I will regret unless I get another ultra wide angle.
Only the Sigma 24-70mm EX DG Macro has the AF/MF clutch.
The Sigma 24-70mm F2.8 EX DG HSM and Sony Carl Zeiss 24-70mm F2.8 SSM both have AF/MF switches and MF override.
All Sony lenses with an internal focus indicator window (except the Sony 50mm F1.4) have a focus clutch, which means the focus ring does not rotate when auto-focusing.
Bear in mind also that any 24-70mm F2.8 will be very big and heavy.
Only the Sigma 24-70mm EX DG Macro has the AF/MF clutch.
The Sigma 24-70mm F2.8 EX DG HSM and Sony Carl Zeiss 24-70mm F2.8 SSM both have AF/MF switches and MF override.
All Sony lenses with an internal focus indicator window (except the Sony 50mm F1.4) have a focus clutch, which means the focus ring does not rotate when auto-focusing.
Bear in mind also that any 24-70mm F2.8 will be very big and heavy.
oh. Do you know how's the performance/image quality of the sigma 2470 Macro? I don't mind the size if the quality is good.
The Sigma 24-70mm F2.8 EX DG Macro is sharp but chunky. And quite prone to gear stripping.
The Sigma 24-70mm F2.8 EX DG HSM however is rated to be superb optically. And because it has its own focus motor inside, it will not get gear stripping.
The Sigma 24-70mm F2.8 EX DG Macro is sharp but chunky. And quite prone to gear stripping.
The Sigma 24-70mm F2.8 EX DG HSM however is rated to be superb optically. And because it has its own focus motor inside, it will not get gear stripping.
If let say gear stripped, send for warranty, would it be still prone to gear stripping?
calling for braynumb! u is going to the regatta later today and also fireworks show tonight?
hahaha... sorry bro... not much time to go out shooting these days... wanna spend time with my baby girl and wife at the moment... lagipun... masih berpantang... hehehe... only by the 8th then can be a bit free...
but i got a cheap offer for that lens! 2 more years warranty somemore can get uwa in future right? maybe should call kysham tonight.
yupp, check with kysham.. UWA is great, and not easy to master.. and gives you a whole new style of pictures.. try walking around and stick your lens to 24mm, think of would you live with that or not.. group shots will take you at least 3-4 steps behind.. honestly, i somehow dont mind (as i like it at 35mm - coz i like to shot my wife's head shot [and i like tight crop]) but a wide (18) is more important at times compared to tele (>100)
This post has been edited by croomaniac: Jul 27 2009, 02:58 PM
I think if you plan on getting an ultra wide angle lens for an APS-C in the future, then a 24-70mm shouldn't be a problem. Though to be frank, you should probably get the ultra wide angle first, lest you find that 24mm isn't wide enough - that's what I'm planning to do.
One should never get a lens just because it is cheap and is said to be a good lens with good IQ or whatever.
One should get a lens that fits one's style of shooting. Period.
Saying that one can get a UWA later is justifying one's not-so-wise decision. A UWA is not that cheap either. If you add up the UWA and the 24-70 you may just end up with the amount for the 16-35 or around there. Why not just bite the bullet and get the proper lens to begin with and do away with all the waiting in between and missing all those shots while you're waiting!
That's just my point of view of course. For me I would not get a 24-70mm while I am still shooting with an APS-C cam. If I want to get the equivalent, I'll either go for the 17-50mm F2.8 if budget is a concern or go straight to 16-35 Zeiss if budget permits. Both the lens will fit my shooting style better than a 24-70mm would and as a bonus, I can get a UWA (16-35mm only ler in this case) without the need to buy another lens if I decide to go FF later on.
Thus on a economic point of view it's much better to invest in a 16-35mm Zeiss if you plan to go FF.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
pictures which i've taken using 1870. (original copy, no edit). i just felt the sharpness is not there.
it's considered sharp! it's just that the depth of field is abit shallow. stop down to f8 and you will see wonder of 1870.
QUOTE(croomaniac @ Jul 27 2009, 02:57 PM)
yupp, check with kysham.. UWA is great, and not easy to master.. and gives you a whole new style of pictures.. try walking around and stick your lens to 24mm, think of would you live with that or not.. group shots will take you at least 3-4 steps behind.. honestly, i somehow dont mind (as i like it at 35mm - coz i like to shot my wife's head shot [and i like tight crop]) but a wide (18) is more important at times compared to tele (>100)
i tried the 24mm for quite a few times, actually it's not much difference from 18mm, probably 2 steps? yea, i understand why a lot of ppl get 16105 instead of 18250 at the same price tag. hmm
QUOTE(jonjwlee @ Jul 27 2009, 02:58 PM)
I think if you plan on getting an ultra wide angle lens for an APS-C in the future, then a 24-70mm shouldn't be a problem. Though to be frank, you should probably get the ultra wide angle first, lest you find that 24mm isn't wide enough - that's what I'm planning to do.
I need a kit lens after selling with the body. That's why I can only pick one but not both
QUOTE(shootkk @ Jul 27 2009, 03:06 PM)
One should never get a lens just because it is cheap and is said to be a good lens with good IQ or whatever.
One should get a lens that fits one's style of shooting. Period.
Saying that one can get a UWA later is justifying one's not-so-wise decision. A UWA is not that cheap either. If you add up the UWA and the 24-70 you may just end up with the amount for the 16-35 or around there. Why not just bite the bullet and get the proper lens to begin with and do away with all the waiting in between and missing all those shots while you're waiting!
That's just my point of view of course. For me I would not get a 24-70mm while I am still shooting with an APS-C cam. If I want to get the equivalent, I'll either go for the 17-50mm F2.8 if budget is a concern or go straight to 16-35 Zeiss if budget permits. Both the lens will fit my shooting style better than a 24-70mm would and as a bonus, I can get a UWA (16-35mm only ler in this case) without the need to buy another lens if I decide to go FF later on.
Thus on a economic point of view it's much better to invest in a 16-35mm Zeiss if you plan to go FF.
But normally your style of shooting will follow the limitation of your lens. Maybe I should get 18250 all rounder lens I look back my photos, most of the time, I will shoot at the both end of the lens, let say for 1870, its always 18mm or 70mm and a couple from midrange. So I think if I were to get 2470, I will just live with it at the moment as I foresee that my shots most likely will be on 24mm and 70mm. I need wide angle only on group shots and landscape, but how often I shoot large group shot? maybe once a month? and how often i travel? once a quarter? there is always another option of shooting panorama. recently during my graduation, i saw the photographer couldn't fit us in his UWA lens and he had to take our group shots in panorama. I am just wondering if someone selling a lens cheap and if it's a not bad choice, why not ?
tanjq87: Apparently so - online somebody had to send his Sigma 50-500mm F4-6.3 EX DG "Bigma" a few times. Why can't they just put a metal geartrain, I don't know.
That said, I still honestly think it is a waste to get a big, fat, heavy full-frame lens which will limit your range on APS-C.
I sometimes regretted using the 17-35mm on my A700 as it was much fatter and took much more space than any APS-C lens which had much longer range. Fortunately, I got used to the short range (using invisibility techniques to get close.)
The 16-35mm Zeiss is about the same price as the 24-70mm Zeiss.. around RM55xx IINM.
tanjq87 : As long as the shoe fits... as they say. I shoot with the 18250 most of the time and I always go like.. Darn! If only this lens is a little bit wider.. when shooting landscapes.
Why didn't I get the 16-105 then. Well, thing is I use tele a lot too when doing landscapes and the 250mm just gives me that extra flexibility. Also I like the extra reach when doing portraits and close ups.
2470+uwa lol thats around 4k! haha 2470 HSM is almost 4k ler, If i were to buy that, i rather save a few more months to get cz2470 haha but thats too far to reach. albert got 1770? actually gear strip will only occur when u put the lens in MF and the body in AF right? or am i wrong? need to call kysham to test his 2470 again! lets organise a tt to test out kit lens replacement
QUOTE(tanjq87 @ Jul 27 2009, 01:42 PM)
oh, so better don't get the lens that are prone to gear stripping. I always thought it's only mishandling of the AF/MF clutch. Do cz1680, sal16105 and sigma 1770 have the MF overwrite mechanism? So far I know tamron 1750 has no such mechanism. 36mm and 50mm is still very different la.. maybe i should tape my 1870 to 24 and walkaround but true la, one of the most important question i always ask myself. "Can I live with the widest 24mm?" "Would I regret after getting 2470?" I guess you answered my questions. Yes I think I will regret unless I get another ultra wide angle.
Sigma 1770 doesnt have the switch or AF/MF on the lens. and 1680,16105 and sigma 1770 doesnt have FTM(full-time-manul). I believe only sony with SSM has that feature, correct me if i`m wrong
QUOTE(tanjq87 @ Jul 27 2009, 02:26 PM)
If let say gear stripped, send for warranty, would it be still prone to gear stripping?
but HSM version is double the price
after warranty doesnt mean wont strip right? the HSM has very very good review and many said that it is better than the canon L and sony Zeiss.
Corrected: Sigma 1770 doesnt come with AF/MF switch...sorry for the typo
This post has been edited by Sp00kY: Jul 27 2009, 04:38 PM
Sigma 1770 does have the switch or AF/MF on the lens. and 1680,16105 and sigma 1770 doesnt have FTM(full-time-manul). I believe only sony with SSM has that feature, correct me if i`m wrong after warranty doesnt mean wont strip right? the HSM has very very good review and many said that it is better than the canon L and sony Zeiss.
HSM better than Zeiss? Wah.. first time heard this..
tanjq87: Apparently so - online somebody had to send his Sigma 50-500mm F4-6.3 EX DG "Bigma" a few times. Why can't they just put a metal geartrain, I don't know.
That said, I still honestly think it is a waste to get a big, fat, heavy full-frame lens which will limit your range on APS-C.
I sometimes regretted using the 17-35mm on my A700 as it was much fatter and took much more space than any APS-C lens which had much longer range. Fortunately, I got used to the short range (using invisibility techniques to get close.)
QUOTE(shootkk @ Jul 27 2009, 03:40 PM)
The 16-35mm Zeiss is about the same price as the 24-70mm Zeiss.. around RM55xx IINM.
tanjq87 : As long as the shoe fits... as they say. I shoot with the 18250 most of the time and I always go like.. Darn! If only this lens is a little bit wider.. when shooting landscapes.
Why didn't I get the 16-105 then. Well, thing is I use tele a lot too when doing landscapes and the 250mm just gives me that extra flexibility. Also I like the extra reach when doing portraits and close ups.
hmm congrats guys, you convinced me ok, take 2470 out of list then but still have a few to consider ok, 1750 is cheap, constant aperture but colour not as nice as cz1680 1770 is cheap, but not constant aperture and prone to gear stripping (shall i take this out of list?) but i like the very small MFD! alright, cz1680, if i were to get a used one without warranty, it will be almost the same price as the other but I am worried on the BF issue. IINM, the early batch got lots of problem?
QUOTE(Sp00kY @ Jul 27 2009, 03:43 PM)
Sigma 1770 does have the switch or AF/MF on the lens. and 1680,16105 and sigma 1770 doesnt have FTM(full-time-manul). I believe only sony with SSM has that feature, correct me if i`m wrong after warranty doesnt mean wont strip right? the HSM has very very good review and many said that it is better than the canon L and sony Zeiss.
SpOOkY: Er, as I remember the Sigma 17-70mm F2.8-4.5 EX DC for Sony does not have an AF/MF switch on the lens, as it does not have a lens motor. The Canon and Nikon versions with HSM, would have this AF/MF switch.
I am eager to see how the Sigma 24-70mm HSM is in real life. I know (with picture proof) that the Zeiss 24-70mm SSM is leaps and bounds over the Sigma 24-70mm non-HSM!
Jul 21 2009, 03:55 PM, updated 17y ago
- A200, A300, A350
Quote
.. 
Promotion period or what? I am funding for a cobra too... That's really good news for me... Can use the rest to get a decent rechargeable battery sets.. 
thanks for the review albnok!
0.1403sec
0.22
6 queries
GZIP Disabled