Alpha street pricelist courtesy of albnok ***updated 1st April 2009***
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Camera --------- Sony A200 + 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT = RM15xx Sony A200 + 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT + 75-300mm F4.5-5.6 = RM18xx Sony A300 + 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT = RM18xx Sony A300 + 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT + 55-200mm F4-5.6 DT = RM22xx Sony A350 body only = RM20xx Sony A350 + 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT = RM23xx Sony A350 + 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT + 55-200mm F4-5.6 DT = RM26xx Sony A700 body only = RM33xx Sony A900 body only = RM85xx
Battery Grip -------------- Sony VG-B30AM for A200/A300/A350 = RM6xx Sony VG-C70AM battery grip for A700 = RM9xx Sony VG-C90AM for A900 = RM9xx
Flash ------ Sony HVL-F36AM = RM8xx - Discontinued Sony HVL-F42AM = RM7xx Sony HVL-F56AM = RM11xx - Discontinued Sony HVL-F58AM = RM11xx
Sony 16-105mm F3.5-5.6 DT = RM16xx Sony 18-250mm F3.5-6.3 DT = RM16xx Sony Carl Zeiss 16-80mm F3.5-4.5 DT = RM25xx Sony Carl Zeiss 135mm F1.8 = RM48xx Sony Carl Zeiss 85mm F1.4 = RM50xx Sony Carl Zeiss 16-35mm F2.8 SSM = RM54xx Sony Carl Zeiss 24-70mm F2.8 SSM = RM54xx
Common Kelvin White Balance Settings : 2500K - very strong orange tungsten light 2800K - strong orange tungsten light 3200K - yellowish tungsten light 4500K M6 - flourescent light (most flourescent tubes are green even though our eyes don't see it) 5500K - flash 6500K - daylight (or daylight-balanced flourescent light) 9900K - strong blue stage lighting or evening light
Xenon lighting is rare but that should be between 7000-9000K.
Whenever you enter a new situation that has different WB, just set your Kelvin WB again and test with one shot. You
should be able to do this with practice.
With the Sony A300 and A350, you can use Live View and see the effect of changing Kelvin WB... live!
M = Magenta G = Green 2500K = Blue 9900K = Amber
Take a picture. Supposing the picture is very Green, you need to add the opposite which is Magenta. If the picture is
too Blue you need to go closer to Amber. So if the picture is very blue-green-ish, you will need to go closer to 9900K
M9.
To prevent the built-in flash from appearing in pictures when in wireless flash mode, you can use any of these
methods, or a combination of them:
- use a darker aperture (e.g. F11) - use a lower ISO (e.g. ISO100) - use a shutter speed faster than your flash sync speed so that High Speed Sync is activated (e.g. 1/320th of a
second) - use a piece of exposed, developed negative film in front of your pop-up flash
2ND!!! yeaaaaaaa....!!! (m0o too damn fast leh... hehehe)
Guyz (n Galz)! need info and advice... I seriously need a separate flash for my a200.. kenot use the 430EX all the time... found this flash in shashinki.com.. any good? somehow remind me of the F20-AM...
Braynumb: Aiyo, save up a bit lah (or sell your 430EX).
aiyo!... kenot sell la... hehehe... then what's my 350D going to use??? dowan to have to buy another flash for the C... kan need more money like dat??? hehehe... so, any sugestion??? got see someone sell a TTL flash for RM270... good enough o not??
golla looks really cool but my concern is accessibility and the protection:) that is why tamrac aero or lowepro fastpack/slingshot is in my list but too exp aha
2ND!!! yeaaaaaaa....!!! (m0o too damn fast leh... hehehe)
Guyz (n Galz)! need info and advice... I seriously need a separate flash for my a200.. kenot use the 430EX all the time... found this flash in shashinki.com.. any good? somehow remind me of the F20-AM...
Eh, my question is not yet answered leh... how bout it??? any ideas??? is the Mecablitz 20 C-2 any good?
i only concern is HSS:)
Added on June 4, 2009, 4:17 pmbackpack one right? accessibility not there la. i have to remove both straps to reach my cam..and its pretty dangerous on the street too
This post has been edited by Sp00kY: Jun 4 2009, 04:17 PM