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 The Tailoring Thread, Bespoke. Nothing beats a perfect fit

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chanti-sama
post Jul 31 2012, 10:32 PM

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QUOTE(deriku @ Jul 31 2012, 02:57 PM)
Depends on your tailor but 3m would be pushing it. I'd go for 3.5m or 3.3m at least.
*
Thanks Deriku, i mailed british fabrics regarding this item -

60% KID MOHAIR 40 % SUPER 100's WOOL WORSTED SUITING FABRIC. LENGTH 3.50 METRES.WIDTH 150cms (60").WEIGHT AROUND 265  GRAMS / METRE. PLAIN DARK NAVY BLUE SHADE WITH A FIRM, SMOOTH, SHINEY,CRISP FINISH.

And the reply is there is enough cloth to make 2 suits... Im confused..

Additionaly... How much of horsehair canvas needed for a single suit?

This post has been edited by chanti-sama: Jul 31 2012, 11:06 PM
deriku
post Aug 1 2012, 09:40 AM

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I think he meant a 2-piece suit (jacket and pants, without vest).

Why would you bother about the canvas? Are you planning to source it yourself?
hochimama
post Aug 1 2012, 01:20 PM

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QUOTE(chanti-sama @ Jul 31 2012, 10:32 PM)
Thanks Deriku, i mailed british fabrics regarding this item -

60% KID MOHAIR 40 % SUPER 100's WOOL WORSTED SUITING FABRIC. LENGTH 3.50 METRES.WIDTH 150cms (60").WEIGHT AROUND 265  GRAMS / METRE. PLAIN DARK NAVY BLUE SHADE WITH A FIRM, SMOOTH, SHINEY,CRISP FINISH.

And the reply is there is enough cloth to make 2 suits... Im confused..

Additionaly... How much of horsehair canvas needed for a single suit?
*
Maybe you can talk to your tailor first.. ask him for measurement and suggestion of how much fabric needed for your size.
Then you achieve two things at once..


Added on August 1, 2012, 1:22 pmMeet up with few tailors first.. talk to them ..
workmanship is equally important smile.gif

This post has been edited by hochimama: Aug 1 2012, 01:22 PM
MeToo
post Aug 1 2012, 06:31 PM

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QUOTE(chanti-sama @ Jul 31 2012, 10:32 PM)
Thanks Deriku, i mailed british fabrics regarding this item -

60% KID MOHAIR 40 % SUPER 100's WOOL WORSTED SUITING FABRIC. LENGTH 3.50 METRES.WIDTH 150cms (60").WEIGHT AROUND 265  GRAMS / METRE. PLAIN DARK NAVY BLUE SHADE WITH A FIRM, SMOOTH, SHINEY,CRISP FINISH.

And the reply is there is enough cloth to make 2 suits... Im confused..

Additionaly... How much of horsehair canvas needed for a single suit?
*
Enuf for a 2 piece.

265 grams might be on the lighter side, hopefully the 60% mohair (that's insanely high, the fabric will be very rough) will give you enough body. Is the fabric branded?
dt_rf
post Aug 1 2012, 07:16 PM

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Has anyone tried Indochino.com? I really like their new collection but I saw some photos on other sites and the cut doesnt look great at all sad.gif but I dont know if that is just because they couldnt measure properly lol
hochimama
post Aug 1 2012, 09:09 PM

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QUOTE(khan @ Jul 31 2012, 09:36 PM)
depends on the fabric... around 900-1500 would get you pretty decent suit.. smile.gif
*
Thank you so much for the info bro ~ ^^


Added on August 1, 2012, 9:14 pm
QUOTE(dt_rf @ Aug 1 2012, 07:16 PM)
Has anyone tried Indochino.com? I really like their new collection but I saw some photos on other sites and the cut doesnt look great at all sad.gif but I dont know if that is just because they couldnt measure properly lol
*
I think most guys here tailor their suit ..

This post has been edited by hochimama: Aug 1 2012, 09:14 PM
Terrorsquad
post Aug 3 2012, 11:21 PM

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QUOTE(chanti-sama @ Jul 31 2012, 10:32 PM)
Thanks Deriku, i mailed british fabrics regarding this item -

60% KID MOHAIR 40 % SUPER 100's WOOL WORSTED SUITING FABRIC. LENGTH 3.50 METRES.WIDTH 150cms (60").WEIGHT AROUND 265  GRAMS / METRE. PLAIN DARK NAVY BLUE SHADE WITH A FIRM, SMOOTH, SHINEY,CRISP FINISH.

And the reply is there is enough cloth to make 2 suits... Im confused..

Additionaly... How much of horsehair canvas needed for a single suit?
*
3.5 meters for 2 suits is nonsense. Maybe what he meant was a 2 piece suit.

The combination of mohair and super 100's wool is similiar to the Harrisons Cape Kid which is an incredible cloth. Crease resistant, has a nice sheen to it and a more importantly has a good hand. Top tailors enjoy working with it.Yes, like any other mohair mixture especially one with a high mohair content, it is coarse. And if you have sensitive skin, you'll most likely hate it due to the 'scratchiness'. Is the cloth your talking about made by William Halstead? If yes, they make very good mohair stuff. I have had the pleasure visiting their mill in the UK. Great mill, great products.

265 grammes for mohair is pretty standard stuff. The Harrisons Cape Kid which has 60% mohair content weighs 240 grams/8oz while the Harrisons Firefly which has 18% mohair content weighs 220/240grams or 8oz.

Unless your a tailor, you dont need to bother so much on where to source horsehair. A competent tailor should be able to source it for you. However, if you insist, you can ask your tailor to source it from Richard James Weldon it the UK. They have been supplying trimmings to Savile Row houses/tailors for ages. Used to have an office in London, unfortunately it has been closed down.

This post has been edited by Terrorsquad: Aug 3 2012, 11:29 PM
Lordz`
post Aug 4 2012, 01:12 AM

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QUOTE(MeToo @ Aug 1 2012, 06:31 PM)
Enuf for a 2 piece.

265 grams might be on the lighter side, hopefully the 60% mohair (that's insanely high, the fabric will be very rough) will give you enough body. Is the fabric branded?
*
MeToo,

Can you share with us your Wardrobe shirts here? A picture taken while you are wearing the shirt so we can have an idea how beautifully the shirt is done?
dwin95
post Aug 4 2012, 11:40 AM

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Hi everyone, quick question. Why is the chest region of my suit so crumply?

And is it compulsory to get a new suit of the racks to a dry cleaner? Or to use it first before sending it in? Thanks!





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Terrorsquad
post Aug 4 2012, 11:26 PM

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Your jacket is too tight, it shows at the buttoning point.

Dry clean as little as possible.Preferably once a year, maximum 4 times a year.
dwin95
post Aug 4 2012, 11:42 PM

wow i finally get to type here since 2009
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QUOTE(Terrorsquad @ Aug 4 2012, 11:26 PM)
Your jacket is too tight, it shows at the buttoning point.

Dry clean as little as possible.Preferably once a year, maximum 4 times a year.
*
Ah, thanks for the direct answer. Maybe Im a little big around the stomach region. haha
Lordz`
post Aug 5 2012, 01:30 AM

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QUOTE(Terrorsquad @ Aug 4 2012, 11:26 PM)
Your jacket is too tight, it shows at the buttoning point.

Dry clean as little as possible.Preferably once a year, maximum 4 times a year.
*
Hi Terror,

Where did you get your suit tailored? Mind to share a couple of your suits' picture?
Zelz92
post Aug 5 2012, 04:17 AM

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QUOTE(dwin95 @ Aug 4 2012, 11:40 AM)
Hi everyone, quick question. Why is the chest region of my suit so crumply?

And is it compulsory to get a new suit of the racks to a dry cleaner? Or to use it first before sending it in? Thanks!
*
Where do you make the suit?
Is it made from wool? Linen? Polyester?
Here's some tip: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b4l4khCUnIM&feature=related


Added on August 5, 2012, 4:30 amIs SummerMen's good tailor? http://summermens.com/

I think The first picture is like mine Brown Birdseye

http://thekerbau.com/index.php?/topic/113-..._7499#entry7499


Added on August 5, 2012, 5:03 amBy the way, Where can I get pocket square?

This post has been edited by Zelz92: Aug 5 2012, 05:03 AM
Terrorsquad
post Aug 5 2012, 01:08 PM

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QUOTE(Lordz` @ Aug 5 2012, 01:30 AM)
Hi Terror,

Where did you get your suit tailored? Mind to share a couple of your suits' picture?
*
I get all my suits made at Ah Loke. Will try to post a few pictures of my suits soon. For the price that I paid Ah Loke, I think he did a good job. Yes, I had to guide him a bit in terms of styling but its mostly due to personal preferences. I have been I think to more then 25 suit fittings for most of my clients so I more or less know what I am looking for in a bespoked suit.

A word of advise, source your own cloth. Ah Loke has some great vintage cloths though I'm not sure you you will like it. I'm a sucker for vintage cloths, I collect it. Buying on the internet can be tricky as sometimes the colour can be quite deceiving though.
Terrorsquad
post Aug 5 2012, 01:16 PM

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QUOTE(Zelz92 @ Aug 5 2012, 04:17 AM)

Added on August 5, 2012, 4:30 amIs SummerMen's good tailor? http://summermens.com/

I think The first picture is like mine Brown Birdseye

http://thekerbau.com/index.php?/topic/113-..._7499#entry7499


Added on August 5, 2012, 5:03 amBy the way, Where can I get pocket square?
*
I have seen some suits made by Summermens. In terms of styling, not that much better then Ah Loke (without any guidance) and the workmanship is much worse.

For pocket squares, that would depend on your budget. If you collect them like I do below (patterned ones are from Drakes, plain one is from Simmonot Godard, a french company which makes the best linen pocket squares in the world), they can cost between RM250 up to RM600 a piece especially for those from Drakes, Rubinacci and Hermes. But if you dont, you can get them on Ebay for as low as RM25. Really depends on what is your budget.

This post has been edited by Terrorsquad: Aug 5 2012, 01:16 PM


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chanti-sama
post Aug 5 2012, 11:56 PM

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QUOTE(Terrorsquad @ Aug 3 2012, 11:21 PM)
3.5 meters for 2 suits is nonsense. Maybe what he meant was a 2 piece suit.

The combination of mohair and super 100's wool is similiar to the Harrisons Cape Kid which is an incredible cloth. Crease resistant, has a nice sheen to it and a more importantly has a good hand. Top tailors enjoy working with it.Yes, like any other mohair mixture especially one with a high mohair content, it is coarse. And if you have sensitive skin, you'll most likely hate it due to the 'scratchiness'. Is the cloth your talking about made by William Halstead? If yes, they make very good mohair stuff. I have had the pleasure visiting their mill in the UK. Great mill, great products.

265 grammes for mohair is pretty standard stuff. The Harrisons Cape Kid which has 60% mohair content weighs 240 grams/8oz while the Harrisons Firefly which has 18% mohair content weighs 220/240grams or 8oz.

Unless your a tailor, you dont need to bother so much on where to source horsehair. A competent tailor should be able to source it for you. However, if you insist, you can ask your tailor to source it from Richard James Weldon it the UK. They have been supplying trimmings to Savile Row houses/tailors for ages. Used to have an office in London, unfortunately it has been closed down.
*
Thanks Terrorsquad, yes it's a william halstead. thanks for the input... after much thinking i will go for a 2 piece, since 3 piece is cool but not very practical for me. Im planning to use for business presentations and some casual/formal meetings n dinners.
Zelz92
post Aug 6 2012, 12:12 AM

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What is the common fabric for lining? I need breathable fabric
Terrorsquad
post Aug 6 2012, 12:38 AM

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For our weather, emarzine, cupro and bemberg are suitable linings. As tempting as silk it, it retains heat and does not breathe well.

If you don't mind and have deep pockets, get 2 Hermes scarves and use it for your jackets lining.I have seen this done, looks awesome.
Zelz92
post Aug 6 2012, 04:19 AM

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QUOTE(Terrorsquad @ Aug 6 2012, 12:38 AM)
For our weather, emarzine, cupro and bemberg are suitable linings. As tempting as silk it, it retains heat and does not breathe well.

If you don't mind and have deep pockets, get 2 Hermes scarves and use it for your jackets lining.I have seen this done, looks awesome.
*
Thanks.. notworthy.gif
MeToo
post Aug 6 2012, 11:56 AM

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QUOTE(chanti-sama @ Aug 5 2012, 11:56 PM)
Thanks Terrorsquad, yes it's a william halstead. thanks for the input... after much thinking i will go for a 2 piece, since 3 piece is cool but not very practical for me. Im planning to use for business presentations and some casual/formal meetings n dinners.
*
Well, if you have enough material for a vest, why not? I got myself a 4m fabric, and didnt wan it to go to waste, so made a vest as well... sometimes u can even wear the vest by itself! biggrin.gif

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