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 The Tailoring Thread, Bespoke. Nothing beats a perfect fit

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Zelz92
post Aug 5 2012, 04:17 AM

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QUOTE(dwin95 @ Aug 4 2012, 11:40 AM)
Hi everyone, quick question. Why is the chest region of my suit so crumply?

And is it compulsory to get a new suit of the racks to a dry cleaner? Or to use it first before sending it in? Thanks!
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Where do you make the suit?
Is it made from wool? Linen? Polyester?
Here's some tip: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b4l4khCUnIM&feature=related


Added on August 5, 2012, 4:30 amIs SummerMen's good tailor? http://summermens.com/

I think The first picture is like mine Brown Birdseye

http://thekerbau.com/index.php?/topic/113-..._7499#entry7499


Added on August 5, 2012, 5:03 amBy the way, Where can I get pocket square?

This post has been edited by Zelz92: Aug 5 2012, 05:03 AM
Zelz92
post Aug 6 2012, 12:12 AM

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What is the common fabric for lining? I need breathable fabric
Zelz92
post Aug 6 2012, 04:19 AM

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QUOTE(Terrorsquad @ Aug 6 2012, 12:38 AM)
For our weather, emarzine, cupro and bemberg are suitable linings. As tempting as silk it, it retains heat and does not breathe well.

If you don't mind and have deep pockets, get 2 Hermes scarves and use it for your jackets lining.I have seen this done, looks awesome.
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Thanks.. notworthy.gif
Zelz92
post Aug 15 2012, 09:14 PM

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Just picked this today

user posted image

Brown white Birdseye sports jacket. what do you think? need alteration?
Zelz92
post Aug 16 2012, 03:11 AM

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QUOTE(wriza @ Aug 15 2012, 10:55 PM)
thats one fine jacket. did you get it OTR? or is it bespoked?
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Thanks, bespoked
Zelz92
post Aug 16 2012, 08:29 PM

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QUOTE(MeToo @ Aug 16 2012, 05:13 PM)
matching pants?

Side view photo?

Oh and please unbutton the lower button pls..
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Sports jacket, no matching pants.

user posted image

What kind of pattern is this?

user posted image


Added on August 16, 2012, 9:15 pm
QUOTE(popcorn513 @ Aug 12 2012, 10:23 PM)
Hi besides GALA tailor, any other tailor to recommend in Penang?
How many days will be needed in order to get the suit ready?
I suppose custom suits will be cheaper compare I get in Japan?
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(jacket only) Fitting in 10 days, completing in 7 days. Total 17 days. At least that's what the tailor told me. But mine actually done in 20 days

This post has been edited by Zelz92: Aug 16 2012, 09:15 PM
Zelz92
post Nov 5 2012, 05:53 PM

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QUOTE(Saigo @ Oct 12 2012, 01:01 AM)
Hey guys, is linen popular as a fabric here in Malaysia? I'm looking to get a linen suit.

Do tailors normally stock linen fabric for suits? If you guys could point me to the right direction, that'd be great!
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My tailor told me that linen is more to garden function. It wear out faster than wool and cotton. I would go for summer weight wool suit.


Added on November 5, 2012, 5:58 pm
QUOTE(Grooveride @ Oct 10 2012, 06:03 PM)
If you do find any, please do let me know as well. I've always had to have my pants hemmed and have yet to meet any tailor which can alter without any problems.


Added on October 10, 2012, 6:19 pmGuys,
I am planning on getting a suit made and I have come to gather from the other pinned thread that we should avoid sourcing the fabric directly from the tailor, so I just need some leads to where I can get the fabric that I want.

I think it should be a fairly straightforward as I am only looking for a plain wool fabrics. I am more on the budget side of things and therefore looking at something that gives good value for money.

Besides British Fabrics, where else can I source my fabric from?
Thanks.
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Italian fabric? Mohair?


Added on November 5, 2012, 6:02 pm
QUOTE(chuakz @ Sep 11 2012, 02:38 AM)
damn....i bough a jacket off the rack that has working buttonholes...or what is known as surgeon's cuff....and i didn't know it would be such a hassle to alter them? Anybody has any experience? urgent!
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If you want to alter the sleeve to make it shorter, they'll have to do it from the shoulder. That makes the alteration expensive.


Added on November 5, 2012, 6:05 pm
QUOTE(!gent's @ Sep 26 2012, 12:06 AM)
How much was this cost you?
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Exactly 1K. 850 after discount.

This post has been edited by Zelz92: Nov 5 2012, 06:05 PM
Zelz92
post Nov 5 2012, 06:19 PM

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Looking forward to make earth tone red cotton sports jacket brows.gif


Added on November 5, 2012, 6:23 pm
QUOTE(ClericKilla @ Nov 5 2012, 06:15 PM)
Weee, just went to measure my body for my suit.
Hopefully will look as fit as him

user posted image
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If this is the first time you working with the tailor, don't expect to high. Fit is very personal. The tailor may think this look great in you, but you may have different picture of fit.

Btw, saw the Midnight Blue tux. Looks good drool.gif

This post has been edited by Zelz92: Nov 5 2012, 06:23 PM
Zelz92
post Nov 5 2012, 06:33 PM

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QUOTE(ClericKilla @ Nov 5 2012, 06:29 PM)
Dont know what she gonna do for me but will be going there at 9th nov to check body then again on next 2 weeks. I want those side to properly fit my skinny type body.
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If you're skinny, they'll have to balance your upper side body (shoulder) with your waist. If it's to skinny on the waist it'll look cartoon-ish. Good tailor will know how to balance. good luck fitting & wish you have the fit that you want. thumbup.gif

This post has been edited by Zelz92: Nov 5 2012, 06:35 PM
Zelz92
post Nov 5 2012, 06:57 PM

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QUOTE(ClericKilla @ Nov 5 2012, 06:49 PM)
i hope they dont add pads on the shoulder. sometimes it makes the suit looks fat
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Ask for the tailor to put light padding. Padding help to make structure around your shoulder. Imagine wearing jacket without padding, it's like wearing t-shirt.
Zelz92
post Nov 5 2012, 07:06 PM

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QUOTE(clearoldstock @ Oct 13 2012, 12:18 PM)
Hello people. I am planning to get a formal wear for a young man. Aged 21 years old. He ought to attend some formal event soon and needs a formal wear.

I have to admit that my family is less educated about style and fashion. So forgive my shortcoming. All these while, we would just simply buy a long sleeve shirt from Jusco/Isetan/Parkson off the shelves and wear it for formal events like wedding etc etc.

As for the young man, he is the youngest generation and I think he should dress to kill and make an impression for employers and peers. Competitive age it is.

So, senseis/taylors out there, mind if answer some of my doubts?

1. How many garments he needs to shop from top to bottom for a formal event? I only know terms like a suit(top)? a slack(pants)? and a dress shoe.

2. How much is the budget for a young man? I did some reading and many said it depends on the material. But I dont even know what material to use. Do suggest a suitable one for a first timer young man.

3. How long it takes to produce 1 set from top to bottom?

4. Most importantly, which taylor to go for? Ruth or Bespoke or  Binwani or *insert* ? Once again, I am trusting the majority's judgement as the situation is like asking a lawyer(me) to plough the earth(farmer's profession). Totally clueless!

Thanks in advance.
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For black-tie (men in black) (Solid color)

1. He'll need: A good crisp dress shirt (white), one with classic narrow hard collar (not button down) or with double cuff. A Solid dark suit or tux. A dark dress leather shoes (Oxford, Brogue) with dark dress socks. Belt (same color as shoes)/Suspenders (depend on body built). Dark conservative tie.

2. Depend on type of fabric. Ranging from 900 and up. Metarial: Wool, Silk, Linen, Cotton, Synthetic etc. I would suggest a wool for the first suit (less wrinkle, last longer than linen) If you live in hot climate choose a lighter fabric. Use summer weight fabric that has looser woven yarn.

3. 8-10 weeks, and 80 hours of tailoring.

4. Tailor, ask local. Expect 4 appointments. Expect 15-40 measurements & photograph

Semi-Formal (Pattern, color)

1. He'll need: A good dress shirt, (not button down) or with double cuff. Suit jacket (match trouser, same fabric). A Trouser (match jacket, same fabric). A dark dress leather shoes (Oxford, Brogue). Belt (same color as shoes)/Suspenders (depend on body built). Conservative tie.


Added on November 5, 2012, 7:09 pm
QUOTE(ClericKilla @ Nov 5 2012, 07:04 PM)
ok boss thanks for the info . will tell her to do so later at 2nd meeting..

i just want my waist to fit my body well, normally see in shopping mall all long long one.

oh yeah did mine with suit and pants RM 480.

lololoo hopefully it turns out good since its reasonable cheap.
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That's cheap shocking.gif

Good luck. Hope it fit well thumbup.gif

This post has been edited by Zelz92: Nov 5 2012, 07:14 PM
Zelz92
post Nov 5 2012, 07:25 PM

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QUOTE(ClericKilla @ Nov 5 2012, 07:15 PM)
Yeah man, I thought it was expensive until you guys talked about making suit 1-2k last few pages.

Any ways I dont mind RM450 even its cheap as long as she can get me my right size.

Thanks biggrin.gif
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What kind of fabric?
Zelz92
post Nov 6 2012, 12:50 AM

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Anyone know where can I find true bespoke tailor? And not made to measure
Zelz92
post Nov 6 2012, 01:56 AM

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QUOTE(Terrorsquad @ Nov 6 2012, 01:27 AM)
I would never ever recommend linen or cotton for a black tie event. They are cloths that are suitable for casual/informal wear.

And I'm very sure that unless you mean one of the Savile Row houses or one of those Neapolitan tailors/houses like Rubinacci, Panico, Fomosa etc, no tailor in the whole of South East Asia spends 80 hours on your suit. Even most Savile Row houses dont spend that much time on making a suit.
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Agree, linen is for casual garden function.
Zelz92
post Nov 6 2012, 07:00 PM

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QUOTE(xDjWanNabex @ Nov 6 2012, 09:11 AM)
Hi guys, just want to know how much to expect when going to a tailor for a suit. Got my graduation coming up next month, so i need to get a nice suit for my self.

I live at bsar, so might stop by one of the many tailors there, but just want to get a heads up on how much to expect. Dont want to enter and be baffled by the prices they throw at me..lol

How do i choose a good one? Im a little large in size, and pointers and how to make the suit as to make me look slightly smaller ( not so big )

thanks guys!
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Expect 4 figure price


Added on November 6, 2012, 7:07 pmGoing to town visiting the tailor. Asking for a nice blue white (small) hounds tooth cotton fabric. set me 2k for a jacket. shakehead.gif

This post has been edited by Zelz92: Nov 6 2012, 07:14 PM
Zelz92
post Nov 6 2012, 11:40 PM

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QUOTE(Terrorsquad @ Nov 6 2012, 10:55 PM)
What fabric did you choose?It would be normal if you chose a Zegna or Loro Piana though.
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I think it's Savile Row on the cover.
Zelz92
post Nov 7 2012, 12:01 AM

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QUOTE(Terrorsquad @ Nov 6 2012, 11:46 PM)
I am guessing that this could possibly be a J.J Minnis/John G Hardy, Holland & Sherry or some made in China cloth. Which shop is this by the way?


Added on November 6, 2012, 11:48 pm

This could almost get you a fully canvassed suit in Lumbs Golden Bale by H.Lesser. But I agree, the service is great though 2.6K for a wool/polyester mix is daylight robbery.
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I remember ti was Holland & Sherry. Summermens. I wonder if ti's bespoke or mtm?
Zelz92
post Nov 7 2012, 09:07 AM

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QUOTE(papayaman @ Nov 7 2012, 07:53 AM)
Hello, just wondering if its possible to alter a suit i made couple of years back.

It does not seem to fit my shoulders as nicely as it used to (I started body building)..so is it possible to alter just the shoulder area + the shoulder pads to make it slightly wider?
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The work demand a high skilled tailor. Shoulder is the hardest part to be alter, it's almost an impossible job. Chances are you won't find tailor who can alter it.
Zelz92
post Nov 9 2012, 01:07 AM

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QUOTE(clearoldstock @ Nov 8 2012, 09:01 PM)
Hmm. The point is, he needs to be presentable and good looking la. Looks smart smile.gif


Added on November 8, 2012, 9:48 pm
There are a lot of foreign words up there but thanks alot smile.gif

I guess there isn't much I can do and just hope for the best for the first suit?

Oh yea. Honestly, giving me so much choices for the materials is quite a headache rclxub.gif really no idea of what are the pros and cons. Do enlighten me. Thanks!

In short, I just ask the tailor for pure wool as material? and slim cutting?
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There's a lot you can do.

This might help.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


For first suit, pick Wool. There are many kind of wool. If you're looking for lightweight, breathable and cool under the sun, pick "summer weight wool (7-9oz)". If you looking for something that keep you warm, pick more delicate wool. There are also blend wool eg: 75%polyster 15%wool and etc. Depend on your budget really.

Oh yeah, the cut ask the tailor to make a suit look like James Bond.
Don't worry, on fitting stage you'll have a batter idea of how that suit gonna fit you.

For "fit" Read:
Shirt fit
Jacket


This post has been edited by Zelz92: Nov 9 2012, 01:44 AM
Zelz92
post Nov 9 2012, 03:31 PM

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QUOTE(clearoldstock @ Nov 9 2012, 01:39 PM)
Now this is an enlightening and edifying post that should be credited. Thanks Zelz92.

Let's discuss on material first.

After some reading myself, wool seems to be the choice as it can be worn all year long and wrinkle-free which are the two main points that caught my attention.

http://www.askmen.com/fashion/fashiontip_6...ion_advice.html
http://www.askmen.com/fashion/fashiontip_3...ion_advice.html

But, there isn't any website which describe the different kind of wools. I tried wiki and google, at least, there is no hits for me. Anyone can help me on this?

I wanna know their pros n cons.

What do you mean by delicate wool? I am definitely looking at a suit that will keep the wearer warm smile.gif Is blend wool good?

Budget: around MYR 1000. But its subjective. Dont mind paying more if there is something worth the money for a first timer.
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Fabrics
Something

The best way is to feel it yourself. Ask the tailor for help.
Oh yeah, try wool + Cashmere blend

This post has been edited by Zelz92: Nov 9 2012, 03:35 PM

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