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 The Tailoring Thread, Bespoke. Nothing beats a perfect fit

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Terrorsquad
post Jul 18 2012, 06:14 PM

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Depends on tailor. But by the sound of it, it seems you want extensive alterations.

What do you mean when you want to alter the shoulders?Because generally, you cant.
hochimama
post Jul 22 2012, 06:40 PM

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All sifu out there .. newbie here ~ anybody know good tailors around Penang area ?
ckming
post Jul 24 2012, 08:59 AM

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Anyone can shed some good tailors shop? Also with all those materials which are the better choice? for suit.
khan
post Jul 24 2012, 11:33 AM

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QUOTE(hochimama @ Jul 22 2012, 06:40 PM)
All sifu out there .. newbie here ~ anybody know good tailors around Penang area ?
*
you can try the one opposite GAMA Supermarket.

The shop name is GALA Tailor. Best in town! smile.gif


Terrorsquad
post Jul 24 2012, 01:39 PM

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QUOTE(ckming @ Jul 24 2012, 08:59 AM)
Anyone can shed some good tailors shop? Also with all those materials which are the better choice? for suit.
*
Would depend on your budget.RM2500 would get you an excellent suit.
ckming
post Jul 24 2012, 05:20 PM

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QUOTE(Terrorsquad @ Jul 24 2012, 01:39 PM)
Would depend on your budget.RM2500 would get you an excellent suit.
*
How bout something < 2k?
i'll be happy if you could recommend some shops to me. also any do and don't?
Terrorsquad
post Jul 25 2012, 12:15 AM

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Less then RM2K, would be possible. I could get you a Zegna Trofeo for RM2K. Have a look here

http://thekerbau.com/index.php?/topic/113-..._7499#entry7499

I can recommend you some shops but depends on your preference. If you wanted my do's and dont's list, there are 45 points in it. Too long for me to type in this forum.
ckming
post Jul 25 2012, 01:24 PM

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QUOTE(Terrorsquad @ Jul 25 2012, 12:15 AM)
Less then RM2K, would be possible. I could get you a Zegna Trofeo for RM2K. Have a look here

http://thekerbau.com/index.php?/topic/113-..._7499#entry7499

I can recommend you some shops but depends on your preference. If you wanted my do's and dont's list, there are 45 points in it. Too long for me to type in this forum.
*
Nice. if i get the fabric from you i hope tailor won't charge a hefty price for not getting from them. So what shop you can recommend?
netmatrix
post Jul 25 2012, 04:16 PM

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QUOTE(giotto @ Jul 10 2012, 03:26 PM)
Guys, i've been wanting to ask this for quite some time.  I'm planning to make a tuxedo for my wedding end of the year.

Understand that tuxedo's have their shiny satin material on the lapel of blazer. 

Here comes the issue.  Because tuxedo are stuffs that you probably wear once in your lifetime unless you're into the entertainment of glamour industry, is it possible for you to alter the satin lapel of the blazer into a normal blazer after the wedding? I plan to turn the tuxedo(minus the shiny satin lapel) into a normal suit so that i can wear them for exhibitions and/or friend's wedding.  I'd try to keep some remaining material. 

Question is, is it even possible to do it?
*
The answer is CAN. U can ask the tailor to make a reversible suit. The suit does not having lining. U can have either regular lapels or notch lapels. The drawback of such suits is u cannot make very structured shoulders because it has to be able to be worn 2 side. And such suits are a little on the heavy side. It could be warmer too. But unless u can make it without using very thinck wool, then it might be wearable. The only time i have seen a reversible suit jacket is made by Commes Des Cargons. One side is regular black dress suit jacket, and when u flip it inside out the other side is dark blue in color and has a tribal print on it. I saw it once at some bundle shop. They were asking a lot for it. You could still see some beng sold in Japan Ebay by the same brand.

The only problem now is finding a tailor that would make such a suit for you. And how much you are willing to pay for it. But u stirred my long curiosity on the question if any tailors here willing to make one. Hell such jackets exists in movies. i think the first time i saw such jacket is in Mission Impossible tv series 1970s' one. Ok time to hit the tailors for pricing and feasability.

This post has been edited by netmatrix: Jul 25 2012, 04:19 PM
hochimama
post Jul 25 2012, 11:30 PM

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QUOTE(khan @ Jul 24 2012, 11:33 AM)
you can try the one opposite GAMA Supermarket.

The shop name is GALA Tailor. Best in town!  smile.gif
*
Thanks bro ~ will check it out ~ any idea of the charges?
2piece ?
deriku
post Jul 26 2012, 08:58 AM

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QUOTE(netmatrix @ Jul 25 2012, 04:16 PM)
The answer is CAN. U can ask the tailor to make a reversible suit. The suit does not having lining. U can have either regular lapels or notch lapels. The drawback of such suits is u cannot make very structured shoulders because it has to be able to be worn 2 side. And such suits are a little on the heavy side. It could be warmer too. But unless u can make it without using very thinck wool, then it might be wearable. The only time i have seen a reversible suit jacket is made by Commes Des Cargons. One side is regular black dress suit jacket, and when u flip it inside out the other side is dark blue in color and has a tribal print on it. I saw it once at some bundle shop. They were asking a lot for it. You could still see some beng sold in Japan Ebay by the same brand.

The only problem now is finding a tailor that would make such a suit for you. And how much you are willing to pay for it. But u stirred my long curiosity on the question if any tailors here willing to make one. Hell such jackets exists in movies. i think the first time i saw such jacket is in Mission Impossible tv series 1970s' one. Ok time to hit the tailors for pricing and feasability.
*
A reversible suit? This is new to me. I suppose the jacket must be of the casual / unstructured type to be reversible.
netmatrix
post Jul 26 2012, 10:29 AM

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QUOTE(deriku @ Jul 26 2012, 08:58 AM)
A reversible suit? This is new to me. I suppose the jacket must be of the casual / unstructured type to be reversible.
*
Yes. I mentioned non structured shoulders. It definitely existed a long time ago. My first encounter with them is in the movies. Maybe you have seens it in actin in TV or movies before, but never thought anything about it. The only time i seen one in person is at a bundle shop. I do not know what the details of the construction are because i did not see the insides. But i'm sure the idea is to replace the lining with panels similar to the outer shell with different suiting material. How they sew up everything together is some skill altogether.

Found the video.



This post has been edited by netmatrix: Jul 26 2012, 10:44 AM
giotto
post Jul 26 2012, 10:39 AM

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QUOTE(netmatrix @ Jul 25 2012, 04:16 PM)
The answer is CAN. U can ask the tailor to make a reversible suit. The suit does not having lining. U can have either regular lapels or notch lapels. The drawback of such suits is u cannot make very structured shoulders because it has to be able to be worn 2 side. And such suits are a little on the heavy side. It could be warmer too. But unless u can make it without using very thinck wool, then it might be wearable. The only time i have seen a reversible suit jacket is made by Commes Des Cargons. One side is regular black dress suit jacket, and when u flip it inside out the other side is dark blue in color and has a tribal print on it. I saw it once at some bundle shop. They were asking a lot for it. You could still see some beng sold in Japan Ebay by the same brand.

The only problem now is finding a tailor that would make such a suit for you. And how much you are willing to pay for it. But u stirred my long curiosity on the question if any tailors here willing to make one. Hell such jackets exists in movies. i think the first time i saw such jacket is in Mission Impossible tv series 1970s' one. Ok time to hit the tailors for pricing and feasability.
*
I went to Binwani's to speak about the tux/blazer combo, basically the tailor tells me not to do it. A tux is a tux, a suit is a suit. The satin/silk lining on the lapel is not easy to remove and even if you remove it, it will leave a mark. Besides, the buttons on the tux is made of satin/silk, just like the lapel. While the buttons are easily replaceable, the same cannot be said about the lapel.

The tailor advised me to do a lapel with the satin/silk finishing that is about 1/3 or 1/4 of the overall width of the lapel. With that, you'd at least be able to wear it and pass it on as a blazer in future. That being said, i don't think it's a good idea afterall. Sigh, gotta invest in a tux that i'm only gonna wear it once.
netmatrix
post Jul 26 2012, 10:52 AM

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QUOTE(giotto @ Jul 26 2012, 10:39 AM)
I went to Binwani's to speak about the tux/blazer combo, basically the tailor tells me not to do it.  A tux is a tux, a suit is a suit.  The satin/silk lining on the lapel is not easy to remove and even if you remove it, it will leave a mark.  Besides, the buttons on the tux is made of satin/silk, just like the lapel.  While the buttons are easily replaceable, the same cannot be said about the lapel.

The tailor advised me to do a lapel with the satin/silk finishing that is about 1/3 or 1/4 of the overall width of the lapel.  With that, you'd at least be able to wear it and pass it on as a blazer in future.  That being said, i don't think it's a good idea afterall.  Sigh, gotta invest in a tux that i'm only gonna wear it once.
*
Like i said, u gotta find a tailor that is willing to make it. The guy at Binwanis probably able to do it. But its too much work maybe? Or maybe its hard to drape the jacket or make the lapels roll as they should? This is a challenge man. flex.gif If i really wanna make one, i would tell the guy i wanna make 2 shirts that look like a coat. Sew them up side by side and make them reversible. Maybe need to go for fused lapels with thin body so they could be turned both ways. The only problem would be with the lapels and collars. Which would probably roll in a weird way. Maybe need to find the old way of creating overlap folds for the collars? Or creating a 2 hard sections between the lapel and body with a small unlined roll gap so it will hold the lapel will fold? rclxub.gif

This post has been edited by netmatrix: Jul 26 2012, 10:55 AM
Terrorsquad
post Jul 26 2012, 12:20 PM

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I am planning to make a tuxedo at WW Chan. Let me ask them if it is possible for you.
netmatrix
post Jul 26 2012, 07:13 PM

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QUOTE(Terrorsquad @ Jul 26 2012, 12:20 PM)
I am planning to make a tuxedo at WW Chan. Let me ask them if it is possible for you.
*
Well if you ask, it would be good info for us here. Not that i'm making one. But i have a feeling that most tailors think its sacrilege to even think about it. laugh.gif laugh.gif
MeToo
post Jul 27 2012, 03:39 PM

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QUOTE(giotto @ Jul 26 2012, 10:39 AM)
I went to Binwani's to speak about the tux/blazer combo, basically the tailor tells me not to do it.  A tux is a tux, a suit is a suit.  The satin/silk lining on the lapel is not easy to remove and even if you remove it, it will leave a mark.  Besides, the buttons on the tux is made of satin/silk, just like the lapel.  While the buttons are easily replaceable, the same cannot be said about the lapel.

The tailor advised me to do a lapel with the satin/silk finishing that is about 1/3 or 1/4 of the overall width of the lapel.  With that, you'd at least be able to wear it and pass it on as a blazer in future.  That being said, i don't think it's a good idea afterall.  Sigh, gotta invest in a tux that i'm only gonna wear it once.
*
Why sell u one jacket when he can sell you 2?

Anyway, tux's black... a black suit have limited uses.

If you want something funky liek that, maybe try smaller tailors or someone you are close with.

I found wardrobe (although not small) to be quite receptive to new ideas/design/quirks that I requested for. Just prepare to sit down and have a long discussion with them.... i do that most of the time anyway... comfy place
chanti-sama
post Jul 31 2012, 02:01 PM

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helo.... sorry for the noob question, but if I plan to buy fabrics online to make a suit, how much fabric would i need? assuming my waist is 40inch and im 160cm tall?

will 3m x 1.5m wool be enough?
deriku
post Jul 31 2012, 02:57 PM

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Depends on your tailor but 3m would be pushing it. I'd go for 3.5m or 3.3m at least.
khan
post Jul 31 2012, 09:36 PM

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QUOTE(hochimama @ Jul 25 2012, 11:30 PM)
Thanks bro ~ will check it out ~ any idea of the charges?
2piece ?
*
depends on the fabric... around 900-1500 would get you pretty decent suit.. smile.gif

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