I find this comment very interesting. Would 'acceptable' be the standard you are looking for after paying quite a sum of your hard earned money for a suit?

Just curious, how much does Wardrobe charge nowdays just for workmanship?

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Added on June 29, 2012, 3:20 pmFor this price, I could get you a fully canvassed suit in Zegna Trofeo.

This post has been edited by Terrorsquad: Jun 29 2012, 03:20 PM

Giotto, the shiny satin material on the lapel of a tuxedo is indeed satin or even silk.

Depending on the price of the tuxedo, especially if it involves silk, you would definitely not want to swap it to normal lapels as there is a risk that (a) the tailor is incompetent and will ruin it; and (b) it will be a waste to throw away the silk.

RJ Weldon charges around 120 pounds/meter for the silk used on tuxedo's and most Savile Row tailors get their supply from RJ Weldon.

Yes, black is not very versatile but in Malaysia, most of us need a black suit to sometimes blend in with the masses.

Syathibimegat, I cannot imagine a good tuxedo being made at the cost of RM200-300 including the cloth. I once had a friend make one in Jalan Campbell and he paid around RM450 for it. It looked attrocious.

If you are planning to source the material yourself, why not go for a barathea as this is usually the material of choice for tuxedoes.

This post has been edited by Terrorsquad: Jul 11 2012, 04:23 PM

ballsofsteel, you will need a very good tailor but technically it is possible.

If you look at Thomas Mahon's blog/website which is called the English Cut, you will see an example of it being done though in your case, you may need a similar fabric. Just have a look at the link I have provided below.

English Cut

This post has been edited by Terrorsquad: Jul 12 2012, 06:04 PM

To be honest, I am not so sure.If your suit is an expensive one, it's better you get it done at a proper place.Would be quite a risk to try out a new place and ends up doing a bad job.

Depends on tailor. But by the sound of it, it seems you want extensive alterations.

What do you mean when you want to alter the shoulders?Because generally, you cant.

Would depend on your budget.RM2500 would get you an excellent suit.

Less then RM2K, would be possible. I could get you a Zegna Trofeo for RM2K. Have a look here

http://thekerbau.com/index.php?/topic/113-..._7499#entry7499

I can recommend you some shops but depends on your preference. If you wanted my do's and dont's list, there are 45 points in it. Too long for me to type in this forum.

I am planning to make a tuxedo at WW Chan. Let me ask them if it is possible for you.

3.5 meters for 2 suits is nonsense. Maybe what he meant was a 2 piece suit.

The combination of mohair and super 100's wool is similiar to the Harrisons Cape Kid which is an incredible cloth. Crease resistant, has a nice sheen to it and a more importantly has a good hand. Top tailors enjoy working with it.Yes, like any other mohair mixture especially one with a high mohair content, it is coarse. And if you have sensitive skin, you'll most likely hate it due to the 'scratchiness'. Is the cloth your talking about made by William Halstead? If yes, they make very good mohair stuff. I have had the pleasure visiting their mill in the UK. Great mill, great products.

265 grammes for mohair is pretty standard stuff. The Harrisons Cape Kid which has 60% mohair content weighs 240 grams/8oz while the Harrisons Firefly which has 18% mohair content weighs 220/240grams or 8oz.

Unless your a tailor, you dont need to bother so much on where to source horsehair. A competent tailor should be able to source it for you. However, if you insist, you can ask your tailor to source it from Richard James Weldon it the UK. They have been supplying trimmings to Savile Row houses/tailors for ages. Used to have an office in London, unfortunately it has been closed down.

This post has been edited by Terrorsquad: Aug 3 2012, 11:29 PM

Your jacket is too tight, it shows at the buttoning point.

Dry clean as little as possible.Preferably once a year, maximum 4 times a year.

I get all my suits made at Ah Loke. Will try to post a few pictures of my suits soon. For the price that I paid Ah Loke, I think he did a good job. Yes, I had to guide him a bit in terms of styling but its mostly due to personal preferences. I have been I think to more then 25 suit fittings for most of my clients so I more or less know what I am looking for in a bespoked suit.

A word of advise, source your own cloth. Ah Loke has some great vintage cloths though I'm not sure you you will like it. I'm a sucker for vintage cloths, I collect it. Buying on the internet can be tricky as sometimes the colour can be quite deceiving though.

I have seen some suits made by Summermens. In terms of styling, not that much better then Ah Loke (without any guidance) and the workmanship is much worse.

For pocket squares, that would depend on your budget. If you collect them like I do below (patterned ones are from Drakes, plain one is from Simmonot Godard, a french company which makes the best linen pocket squares in the world), they can cost between RM250 up to RM600 a piece especially for those from Drakes, Rubinacci and Hermes. But if you dont, you can get them on Ebay for as low as RM25. Really depends on what is your budget.

This post has been edited by Terrorsquad: Aug 5 2012, 01:16 PM


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For our weather, emarzine, cupro and bemberg are suitable linings. As tempting as silk it, it retains heat and does not breathe well.

If you don't mind and have deep pockets, get 2 Hermes scarves and use it for your jackets lining.I have seen this done, looks awesome.

Did you source it here in KL?I only know one place in KL that carries real bemberg.But I no longer purchase it there since I now have cupro, emarzine and bemberg in stock.

Depends on what type of lining you want to go with, either quarter,half or full lining.If you wan to get a 2 piece made and you want full lining for your jacket and you want to line your trousers until the knees, usually 3 meters would be sufficient.

But it's best to consult your tailor on this.

I'm guessing you got it from Hwa Seng Textiles.

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Added on August 6, 2012, 11:04 pmWhat exactly did you learn from him?If you chose one of his Italian super 150's cloth, be prepared for dissapointment. The cloth does not make up very well. And it will show during the fittings.

This post has been edited by Terrorsquad: Aug 6 2012, 11:04 PM

have you ordered the suit?if yes, chances are he has already cut the cloth

There are so many options out there.Get a good sturdy English cloth from the merchants in the UK. if this is your first suit, get a navy or a dark/mid grey.The reason being, it will be versatile colours for your wardrobe and be staples.

Then eventually move to different designs like chalk stripes, pin stripes, window panes, houndstooth etc...

What is your budget for cloth?Maybe I can help you out.

What colour are you looking for?I have tonnes of cloth in storage now. I have a grey/silverish mohair from Bulmer and Lumb which I got when I was in Bradford. Let me know the colour you like and I'll digg up my personal collection.

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Added on August 9, 2012, 9:27 pmChanti-sama,

Yes mohair is appropriate for our weather as it does not conduct heat like wool does and provides excellent insulation. I breathes very well too. I will post pictures tomorrow of the Harrisons Firefly and also the Cape Kid which has a high amount of mohair in it.

Apart from the characteristics mentioned above, it has a very nice lustre and sheen and it is aided by its natural ability to take dye which makes it very appealing to some people. Remember Tom Cruise's french blue suit in Mission Impossible?If I am not mistaken (I stand to be corrected), it is a mohair blend. See how the colour and sheen just jumps out.

The one downside with mohair is its coarseness. However, I have had the pleasure to handle some mohair/wool blend from an Italian mill that is tremendously soft and silky, I almost mistook it for a super 140! Like Metto said, its pretty crease resistant. I stuffed my jacket in my luggage and took it out and wore it immediately. No wrinkles!

If you are really looking for good, summer kid mohair, find those that says Camdeboo mohair. Camdeboo are collective South African producers which has developed the best mohair fibres.

However, apart from mohair, find a cloth that has a plain/panama weave .A fresco or a hopsack (google this in British Fabrics on ebay, they have a few) are also great stuff for our weather. I had a jacket made using the Minnis Fesco which weighs 12oz/350 grams but it breathes tremendously well though that thing is coarse as hell.

This post has been edited by Terrorsquad: Aug 9 2012, 09:29 PM