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 The Tailoring Thread, Bespoke. Nothing beats a perfect fit

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Terrorsquad
post Aug 5 2012, 01:16 PM

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QUOTE(Zelz92 @ Aug 5 2012, 04:17 AM)

Added on August 5, 2012, 4:30 amIs SummerMen's good tailor? http://summermens.com/

I think The first picture is like mine Brown Birdseye

http://thekerbau.com/index.php?/topic/113-..._7499#entry7499


Added on August 5, 2012, 5:03 amBy the way, Where can I get pocket square?
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I have seen some suits made by Summermens. In terms of styling, not that much better then Ah Loke (without any guidance) and the workmanship is much worse.

For pocket squares, that would depend on your budget. If you collect them like I do below (patterned ones are from Drakes, plain one is from Simmonot Godard, a french company which makes the best linen pocket squares in the world), they can cost between RM250 up to RM600 a piece especially for those from Drakes, Rubinacci and Hermes. But if you dont, you can get them on Ebay for as low as RM25. Really depends on what is your budget.

This post has been edited by Terrorsquad: Aug 5 2012, 01:16 PM


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chanti-sama
post Aug 5 2012, 11:56 PM

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QUOTE(Terrorsquad @ Aug 3 2012, 11:21 PM)
3.5 meters for 2 suits is nonsense. Maybe what he meant was a 2 piece suit.

The combination of mohair and super 100's wool is similiar to the Harrisons Cape Kid which is an incredible cloth. Crease resistant, has a nice sheen to it and a more importantly has a good hand. Top tailors enjoy working with it.Yes, like any other mohair mixture especially one with a high mohair content, it is coarse. And if you have sensitive skin, you'll most likely hate it due to the 'scratchiness'. Is the cloth your talking about made by William Halstead? If yes, they make very good mohair stuff. I have had the pleasure visiting their mill in the UK. Great mill, great products.

265 grammes for mohair is pretty standard stuff. The Harrisons Cape Kid which has 60% mohair content weighs 240 grams/8oz while the Harrisons Firefly which has 18% mohair content weighs 220/240grams or 8oz.

Unless your a tailor, you dont need to bother so much on where to source horsehair. A competent tailor should be able to source it for you. However, if you insist, you can ask your tailor to source it from Richard James Weldon it the UK. They have been supplying trimmings to Savile Row houses/tailors for ages. Used to have an office in London, unfortunately it has been closed down.
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Thanks Terrorsquad, yes it's a william halstead. thanks for the input... after much thinking i will go for a 2 piece, since 3 piece is cool but not very practical for me. Im planning to use for business presentations and some casual/formal meetings n dinners.
Zelz92
post Aug 6 2012, 12:12 AM

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What is the common fabric for lining? I need breathable fabric
Terrorsquad
post Aug 6 2012, 12:38 AM

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For our weather, emarzine, cupro and bemberg are suitable linings. As tempting as silk it, it retains heat and does not breathe well.

If you don't mind and have deep pockets, get 2 Hermes scarves and use it for your jackets lining.I have seen this done, looks awesome.
Zelz92
post Aug 6 2012, 04:19 AM

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QUOTE(Terrorsquad @ Aug 6 2012, 12:38 AM)
For our weather, emarzine, cupro and bemberg are suitable linings. As tempting as silk it, it retains heat and does not breathe well.

If you don't mind and have deep pockets, get 2 Hermes scarves and use it for your jackets lining.I have seen this done, looks awesome.
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Thanks.. notworthy.gif
MeToo
post Aug 6 2012, 11:56 AM

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QUOTE(chanti-sama @ Aug 5 2012, 11:56 PM)
Thanks Terrorsquad, yes it's a william halstead. thanks for the input... after much thinking i will go for a 2 piece, since 3 piece is cool but not very practical for me. Im planning to use for business presentations and some casual/formal meetings n dinners.
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Well, if you have enough material for a vest, why not? I got myself a 4m fabric, and didnt wan it to go to waste, so made a vest as well... sometimes u can even wear the vest by itself! biggrin.gif
chanti-sama
post Aug 6 2012, 04:46 PM

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QUOTE(Terrorsquad @ Aug 6 2012, 12:38 AM)
For our weather, emarzine, cupro and bemberg are suitable linings. As tempting as silk it, it retains heat and does not breathe well.

If you don't mind and have deep pockets, get 2 Hermes scarves and use it for your jackets lining.I have seen this done, looks awesome.
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Terrorsquad .... how much lining do i need? managed to source a bemberg supplier hehe....
Terrorsquad
post Aug 6 2012, 10:09 PM

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Did you source it here in KL?I only know one place in KL that carries real bemberg.But I no longer purchase it there since I now have cupro, emarzine and bemberg in stock.

Depends on what type of lining you want to go with, either quarter,half or full lining.If you wan to get a 2 piece made and you want full lining for your jacket and you want to line your trousers until the knees, usually 3 meters would be sufficient.

But it's best to consult your tailor on this.
chanti-sama
post Aug 6 2012, 10:22 PM

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Ok.... Im in sg... Manage to get one suplier. 3m then haha.. Tonite confirm the wool


This post has been edited by chanti-sama: Aug 6 2012, 10:38 PM
elgato
post Aug 6 2012, 10:52 PM

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Went to ah Loke for my suit. Learn so much for the man!
Terrorsquad
post Aug 6 2012, 11:02 PM

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QUOTE(chanti-sama @ Aug 6 2012, 10:22 PM)
Ok.... Im in sg... Manage to get one suplier. 3m then haha.. Tonite confirm the wool
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I'm guessing you got it from Hwa Seng Textiles.


Added on August 6, 2012, 11:04 pm
QUOTE(elgato @ Aug 6 2012, 10:52 PM)
Went to ah Loke for my suit. Learn so much for the man!
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What exactly did you learn from him?If you chose one of his Italian super 150's cloth, be prepared for dissapointment. The cloth does not make up very well. And it will show during the fittings.

This post has been edited by Terrorsquad: Aug 6 2012, 11:04 PM
attacusatlas
post Aug 6 2012, 11:12 PM

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QUOTE(Terrorsquad @ Aug 5 2012, 01:16 PM)
I have seen some suits made by Summermens. In terms of styling, not that much better then Ah Loke (without any guidance) and the workmanship is much worse.

For pocket squares, that would depend on your budget. If you collect them like I do below (patterned ones are from Drakes, plain one is from Simmonot Godard, a french company which makes the best linen pocket squares in the world), they can cost between RM250 up to RM600 a piece especially for those from Drakes, Rubinacci and Hermes. But if you dont, you can get them on Ebay for as low as RM25. Really depends on what is your budget.
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I m liking your drake's unicorn.

elgato
post Aug 6 2012, 11:25 PM

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QUOTE(Terrorsquad @ Aug 6 2012, 11:02 PM)
I'm guessing you got it from Hwa Seng Textiles.


Added on August 6, 2012, 11:04 pm

What exactly did you learn from him?If you chose one of his Italian super 150's cloth, be prepared for dissapointment. The cloth does not make up very well. And it will show during the fittings.
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U have any recommendation othe than the s150 Italian he is offering?
chanti-sama
post Aug 6 2012, 11:44 PM

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QUOTE(Terrorsquad @ Aug 6 2012, 11:02 PM)
I'm guessing you got it from Hwa Seng Textiles.

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Loh Shew Kee Pte. Ltd.... Hmm i'll check hwa seng as well
Terrorsquad
post Aug 7 2012, 12:00 AM

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QUOTE(elgato @ Aug 6 2012, 11:25 PM)
U have any recommendation othe than the s150 Italian he is offering?
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have you ordered the suit?if yes, chances are he has already cut the cloth
elgato
post Aug 7 2012, 12:30 AM

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Havent desir the color. Told hin to wait till saturday. What is my other options for materials?
Terrorsquad
post Aug 7 2012, 10:13 AM

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There are so many options out there.Get a good sturdy English cloth from the merchants in the UK. if this is your first suit, get a navy or a dark/mid grey.The reason being, it will be versatile colours for your wardrobe and be staples.

Then eventually move to different designs like chalk stripes, pin stripes, window panes, houndstooth etc...
elgato
post Aug 8 2012, 11:51 AM

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60% KID MOHAIR 40 % SUPER 100's WOOL WORSTED SUITING FABRIC. LENGTH 3.50 METRES.WIDTH 150cms (60").WEIGHT AROUND 265 GRAMS / METRE. PLAIN DARK NAVY BLUE SHADE WITH A FIRM, SMOOTH, SHINEY,CRISP FINISH. IT WAS MADE IN WEST YORKSHIRE,ENGLAND AND HAS A WOVEN NAME EDGE WITH DESCRIPTION AND COUNTRY OF ORIGIN.

above materials ok or not?
MeToo
post Aug 8 2012, 12:29 PM

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QUOTE(elgato @ Aug 8 2012, 11:51 AM)
60% KID MOHAIR 40 % SUPER 100's WOOL WORSTED SUITING FABRIC. LENGTH 3.50 METRES.WIDTH 150cms (60").WEIGHT AROUND 265  GRAMS / METRE. PLAIN DARK NAVY BLUE SHADE WITH A FIRM, SMOOTH, SHINEY,CRISP FINISH. IT WAS  MADE IN WEST YORKSHIRE,ENGLAND AND HAS A WOVEN NAME EDGE WITH  DESCRIPTION AND COUNTRY OF ORIGIN.

above materials ok or not?
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I suggest.

You walk into a shop that actually have 60 mohair/40 wool, FEEL the fabric first. I have frens who was shocked out of their socks when they found out how coarse 60% mohair can be.
Terrorsquad
post Aug 8 2012, 07:03 PM

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What is your budget for cloth?Maybe I can help you out.

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