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 The Tailoring Thread, Bespoke. Nothing beats a perfect fit

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deriku
post Oct 25 2010, 11:30 PM

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Gents,

So I bought this Chesterfield wool coat from the Uniqlo Jil Sander line with winter closing in. It was purchased online in a somewhat impulsive moment, hence I never really had the chance to try for size.

In the pics below I have a suit jacket as a middle layer, which is what I would usually wear with the coat. The coat is a UK medium but I can't help but feel that it's a bit roomy in the chest and waist area. My question is, can it be altered in anyway to look better? Eg a little more waist suppression. I know coats don't get discussed often here, but comments are appreciated.

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deriku
post Feb 12 2011, 11:55 PM

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I thought it should only be done if the shoulders fit? Else alteration may be tough if not impossible.
deriku
post Mar 5 2011, 06:38 PM

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QUOTE(newx @ Mar 5 2011, 01:17 PM)
Gentlemen,

How do you clean your bespoked shirts & trousers?

Previously, I have no problem asking my gf to dry clean it for me since she only pay a fixed amount of RM50 / month to a laundry at her place. These days, I can't risk placing one week clothes in her hand as I might not get it back! sweat.gif I ask laundries nearby my area and they quoted RM6-RM7 per shirt for dry cleaning. Is this a normal rate?

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Dry cleaning is supposedly not good for shirts. Launder them to get more wears.
deriku
post Apr 9 2011, 12:58 PM

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The Uniqlo stores here offer merino and lambswool sweaters. The lambswool sweater feels more course and is thicker, providing better insulation.
deriku
post Aug 29 2011, 01:43 PM

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QUOTE(irmond @ Aug 27 2011, 03:51 PM)
I don't need to clarify.
I've done my trousers already.
now saving my money for the suit as well.
sometimes is depending where u got it from.
is way cheaper if u get it from China.
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I can tell you as a matter of fact that a decent suit in China is not cheap at all. Pray tell where you got yours.
deriku
post Dec 20 2011, 01:11 PM

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QUOTE(newx @ Dec 19 2011, 11:20 PM)
Gentlemen,

Let's not spoil the market.

Please tell us what is supposed to be a competitive price for a canvassed suit using tailor's materials. This way nobody will pay ridiculous amount of money and us customers have better idea on how much grams of gold to pay.
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I think the people whom you are hoping to get a response from have already left this forvm, maybe even for good unsure.gif
deriku
post Mar 12 2012, 09:37 AM

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You mean like this?

user posted image

www.tomford.com

Throw away the cost consideration, the look you'll achieve will simply be priceless.
deriku
post Mar 12 2012, 04:38 PM

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QUOTE(lesboutons @ Mar 12 2012, 11:22 AM)
tom ford should model his suits on really skinny dudes with big tummies, so that we know what we would look like in them.
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Skinny dudes with big tummies should avoid TF altogether.
deriku
post Apr 22 2012, 10:42 PM

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You can check out Uniqlo if you don't want to go down the tailoring road. They have pretty good linen offerings.
deriku
post Jun 15 2012, 03:55 PM

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The material is probably polyester or poly-wool mix. Generally I would not recommend these groupon deals if you're looking for a good suit.

But if you're looking for a cheap entry level suit, why not give it a try and let us know the results here?
deriku
post Jun 19 2012, 05:16 PM

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Did you go to alteration tailors or those who make suits as well? I guess alteration tailors may be worried about messing up your jacket since it is a fairly complicated job.

Perhaps try the tailoring shops, e.g. the forum's favourite bespoke tailor Ah Loke.
deriku
post Jun 25 2012, 12:34 AM

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The waist looks ok, not sure if more suppression would do you good. Sleeves definitely need to be shortened by 1-1.5 inches.
deriku
post Jul 26 2012, 08:58 AM

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QUOTE(netmatrix @ Jul 25 2012, 04:16 PM)
The answer is CAN. U can ask the tailor to make a reversible suit. The suit does not having lining. U can have either regular lapels or notch lapels. The drawback of such suits is u cannot make very structured shoulders because it has to be able to be worn 2 side. And such suits are a little on the heavy side. It could be warmer too. But unless u can make it without using very thinck wool, then it might be wearable. The only time i have seen a reversible suit jacket is made by Commes Des Cargons. One side is regular black dress suit jacket, and when u flip it inside out the other side is dark blue in color and has a tribal print on it. I saw it once at some bundle shop. They were asking a lot for it. You could still see some beng sold in Japan Ebay by the same brand.

The only problem now is finding a tailor that would make such a suit for you. And how much you are willing to pay for it. But u stirred my long curiosity on the question if any tailors here willing to make one. Hell such jackets exists in movies. i think the first time i saw such jacket is in Mission Impossible tv series 1970s' one. Ok time to hit the tailors for pricing and feasability.
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A reversible suit? This is new to me. I suppose the jacket must be of the casual / unstructured type to be reversible.
deriku
post Jul 31 2012, 02:57 PM

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Depends on your tailor but 3m would be pushing it. I'd go for 3.5m or 3.3m at least.
deriku
post Aug 1 2012, 09:40 AM

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I think he meant a 2-piece suit (jacket and pants, without vest).

Why would you bother about the canvas? Are you planning to source it yourself?
deriku
post Nov 9 2012, 05:57 PM

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To me, there's no significant difference between pure wool and wool/cashmere blend. At most you get 5 - 10% cashmere which really does not make a whole lot of difference, just a marketing gimmick to get people interested.
deriku
post Jan 22 2013, 08:46 AM

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A few factors eg the camera effect when taking the photo, monitor screen settings etc may result in the colors looking a bit off.
deriku
post Jan 23 2013, 03:04 PM

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^Read the pinned thread "So you wanna get a suit made..."
deriku
post Feb 10 2014, 04:02 PM

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QUOTE(ianthensome @ Feb 5 2014, 04:41 PM)
Hey guys, I'm so new to all this tailor-made suits, I have very little knowledge. So here's the deal: I will need a couple (or maybe three pairs) of business suit for my work. It's my first time to be wearing a pair of suit on a normal daily basis.

Question: How much is the average tailor-made pair of suit can I expect? I've done a little backreading and I'm afraid I cannot afford for now RM1,000 for a pair. Maybe when I get rich ok, but for now, I'll settle for the cheap custom mades that I can wear daily.
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If you're looking for cheap suits you're better off getting RTW. Brands like Uniqlo etc.

QUOTE(farkinid @ Feb 10 2014, 03:15 PM)
Hi guys,

I'm looking for a recommendation for a tailor in KL. I would like to custom make a suit for a beach wedding but I have never had to tailor make a suit in KL before.

Whats important to me is workmanship and material. So can anybody recommend a good tailor?
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Read the pinned thread. I suggest you look at linen.
deriku
post May 16 2014, 05:48 PM

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The short answer is...no if you only care about the looks and not the craftsmanship and handwork.

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