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 The Tailoring Thread, Bespoke. Nothing beats a perfect fit

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chanti-sama
post Aug 6 2012, 04:46 PM

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QUOTE(Terrorsquad @ Aug 6 2012, 12:38 AM)
For our weather, emarzine, cupro and bemberg are suitable linings. As tempting as silk it, it retains heat and does not breathe well.

If you don't mind and have deep pockets, get 2 Hermes scarves and use it for your jackets lining.I have seen this done, looks awesome.
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Terrorsquad .... how much lining do i need? managed to source a bemberg supplier hehe....
Terrorsquad
post Aug 6 2012, 10:09 PM

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Did you source it here in KL?I only know one place in KL that carries real bemberg.But I no longer purchase it there since I now have cupro, emarzine and bemberg in stock.

Depends on what type of lining you want to go with, either quarter,half or full lining.If you wan to get a 2 piece made and you want full lining for your jacket and you want to line your trousers until the knees, usually 3 meters would be sufficient.

But it's best to consult your tailor on this.
chanti-sama
post Aug 6 2012, 10:22 PM

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Ok.... Im in sg... Manage to get one suplier. 3m then haha.. Tonite confirm the wool


This post has been edited by chanti-sama: Aug 6 2012, 10:38 PM
elgato
post Aug 6 2012, 10:52 PM

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Went to ah Loke for my suit. Learn so much for the man!
Terrorsquad
post Aug 6 2012, 11:02 PM

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QUOTE(chanti-sama @ Aug 6 2012, 10:22 PM)
Ok.... Im in sg... Manage to get one suplier. 3m then haha.. Tonite confirm the wool
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I'm guessing you got it from Hwa Seng Textiles.


Added on August 6, 2012, 11:04 pm
QUOTE(elgato @ Aug 6 2012, 10:52 PM)
Went to ah Loke for my suit. Learn so much for the man!
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What exactly did you learn from him?If you chose one of his Italian super 150's cloth, be prepared for dissapointment. The cloth does not make up very well. And it will show during the fittings.

This post has been edited by Terrorsquad: Aug 6 2012, 11:04 PM
attacusatlas
post Aug 6 2012, 11:12 PM

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QUOTE(Terrorsquad @ Aug 5 2012, 01:16 PM)
I have seen some suits made by Summermens. In terms of styling, not that much better then Ah Loke (without any guidance) and the workmanship is much worse.

For pocket squares, that would depend on your budget. If you collect them like I do below (patterned ones are from Drakes, plain one is from Simmonot Godard, a french company which makes the best linen pocket squares in the world), they can cost between RM250 up to RM600 a piece especially for those from Drakes, Rubinacci and Hermes. But if you dont, you can get them on Ebay for as low as RM25. Really depends on what is your budget.
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I m liking your drake's unicorn.

elgato
post Aug 6 2012, 11:25 PM

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QUOTE(Terrorsquad @ Aug 6 2012, 11:02 PM)
I'm guessing you got it from Hwa Seng Textiles.


Added on August 6, 2012, 11:04 pm

What exactly did you learn from him?If you chose one of his Italian super 150's cloth, be prepared for dissapointment. The cloth does not make up very well. And it will show during the fittings.
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U have any recommendation othe than the s150 Italian he is offering?
chanti-sama
post Aug 6 2012, 11:44 PM

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QUOTE(Terrorsquad @ Aug 6 2012, 11:02 PM)
I'm guessing you got it from Hwa Seng Textiles.

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Loh Shew Kee Pte. Ltd.... Hmm i'll check hwa seng as well
Terrorsquad
post Aug 7 2012, 12:00 AM

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QUOTE(elgato @ Aug 6 2012, 11:25 PM)
U have any recommendation othe than the s150 Italian he is offering?
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have you ordered the suit?if yes, chances are he has already cut the cloth
elgato
post Aug 7 2012, 12:30 AM

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Havent desir the color. Told hin to wait till saturday. What is my other options for materials?
Terrorsquad
post Aug 7 2012, 10:13 AM

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There are so many options out there.Get a good sturdy English cloth from the merchants in the UK. if this is your first suit, get a navy or a dark/mid grey.The reason being, it will be versatile colours for your wardrobe and be staples.

Then eventually move to different designs like chalk stripes, pin stripes, window panes, houndstooth etc...
elgato
post Aug 8 2012, 11:51 AM

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60% KID MOHAIR 40 % SUPER 100's WOOL WORSTED SUITING FABRIC. LENGTH 3.50 METRES.WIDTH 150cms (60").WEIGHT AROUND 265 GRAMS / METRE. PLAIN DARK NAVY BLUE SHADE WITH A FIRM, SMOOTH, SHINEY,CRISP FINISH. IT WAS MADE IN WEST YORKSHIRE,ENGLAND AND HAS A WOVEN NAME EDGE WITH DESCRIPTION AND COUNTRY OF ORIGIN.

above materials ok or not?
MeToo
post Aug 8 2012, 12:29 PM

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QUOTE(elgato @ Aug 8 2012, 11:51 AM)
60% KID MOHAIR 40 % SUPER 100's WOOL WORSTED SUITING FABRIC. LENGTH 3.50 METRES.WIDTH 150cms (60").WEIGHT AROUND 265  GRAMS / METRE. PLAIN DARK NAVY BLUE SHADE WITH A FIRM, SMOOTH, SHINEY,CRISP FINISH. IT WAS  MADE IN WEST YORKSHIRE,ENGLAND AND HAS A WOVEN NAME EDGE WITH  DESCRIPTION AND COUNTRY OF ORIGIN.

above materials ok or not?
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I suggest.

You walk into a shop that actually have 60 mohair/40 wool, FEEL the fabric first. I have frens who was shocked out of their socks when they found out how coarse 60% mohair can be.
Terrorsquad
post Aug 8 2012, 07:03 PM

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What is your budget for cloth?Maybe I can help you out.
elgato
post Aug 8 2012, 10:58 PM

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Budget? Around rm600?
chanti-sama
post Aug 9 2012, 12:02 AM

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But higher mohair is better for our weather?
MeToo
post Aug 9 2012, 11:50 AM

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QUOTE(chanti-sama @ Aug 9 2012, 12:02 AM)
But higher mohair is better for our weather?
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Um.... no such general rule... i dont think 100% is wearable sweat.gif

Although I HAVE seen 100% mohair suits... its.. kinda... well u gotta go feel it, the good point is that its pretty wrinkle resistant tongue.gif
Terrorsquad
post Aug 9 2012, 08:49 PM

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QUOTE(elgato @ Aug 8 2012, 10:58 PM)
Budget? Around rm600?
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What colour are you looking for?I have tonnes of cloth in storage now. I have a grey/silverish mohair from Bulmer and Lumb which I got when I was in Bradford. Let me know the colour you like and I'll digg up my personal collection.


Added on August 9, 2012, 9:27 pmChanti-sama,

Yes mohair is appropriate for our weather as it does not conduct heat like wool does and provides excellent insulation. I breathes very well too. I will post pictures tomorrow of the Harrisons Firefly and also the Cape Kid which has a high amount of mohair in it.

Apart from the characteristics mentioned above, it has a very nice lustre and sheen and it is aided by its natural ability to take dye which makes it very appealing to some people. Remember Tom Cruise's french blue suit in Mission Impossible?If I am not mistaken (I stand to be corrected), it is a mohair blend. See how the colour and sheen just jumps out.

The one downside with mohair is its coarseness. However, I have had the pleasure to handle some mohair/wool blend from an Italian mill that is tremendously soft and silky, I almost mistook it for a super 140! Like Metto said, its pretty crease resistant. I stuffed my jacket in my luggage and took it out and wore it immediately. No wrinkles!

If you are really looking for good, summer kid mohair, find those that says Camdeboo mohair. Camdeboo are collective South African producers which has developed the best mohair fibres.

However, apart from mohair, find a cloth that has a plain/panama weave .A fresco or a hopsack (google this in British Fabrics on ebay, they have a few) are also great stuff for our weather. I had a jacket made using the Minnis Fesco which weighs 12oz/350 grams but it breathes tremendously well though that thing is coarse as hell.

This post has been edited by Terrorsquad: Aug 9 2012, 09:29 PM
Terrorsquad
post Aug 10 2012, 12:00 PM

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Here are are some pictures of some cloth that contains summer kid mohair in it. Notice that the Harrisons Cape Kid, which has 60% mohair content in it is more porous then the Firefly which has 18% mohair content in it.

Cape Kid (60% mohair)

Attached Image

Firefly (18% mohair)

Attached Image

However, if you are not a fan of mohair, find a cloth with a plain weave like the one below. Not as porous as those with mohair in it but still very much suitable for our weather.

Attached Image

What most people usually choose is this kind of cloth below. A great cloth but not very suitable for our weather due to the tight weave which as you can see, does not a very breathable cloth.

Attached Image

My sports jacket which is made from the awesome Minnis Fresco. See how porous the cloth is, allowing maximum air circulation.

Attached Image

You can purchase the Minnis Fresco here:

My Webpage
popcorn513
post Aug 12 2012, 10:23 PM

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QUOTE(hochimama @ Jul 22 2012, 06:40 PM)
All sifu out there .. newbie here ~ anybody know good tailors around Penang area ?
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QUOTE(khan @ Jul 24 2012, 11:33 AM)
you can try the one opposite GAMA Supermarket.

The shop name is GALA Tailor. Best in town!  smile.gif
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Hi besides GALA tailor, any other tailor to recommend in Penang?
How many days will be needed in order to get the suit ready?
I suppose custom suits will be cheaper compare I get in Japan?

This post has been edited by popcorn513: Aug 12 2012, 10:23 PM

 

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