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 The Tailoring Thread, Bespoke. Nothing beats a perfect fit

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kotmj
post Jan 22 2011, 08:34 PM

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QUOTE(newx @ Jan 22 2011, 01:05 PM)
Is this a joke or what?
AA Tailor

Where on earth is this AA Tailor located?
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I think it's a trap or a scam of somesort. In any case, the advertising is highly disingenious. The pic you see in the advertisement

user posted image

is of Patrick Chu of WWChan in Hong Kong, and the customer is Will Boelke. Certain not a Malaysian tailor. No address, no phone number.


Added on January 22, 2011, 10:03 pmBTW I discovered a new motherload of MOP buttons today. So cheap, so serviceable. I bought 4 dozen. Suk mai dik.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jan 22 2011, 10:03 PM
Burnn
post Jan 23 2011, 01:17 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jan 22 2011, 08:34 PM)
I think it's a trap or a scam of somesort. In any case, the advertising is highly disingenious. The pic you see in the advertisement

user posted image

is of Patrick Chu of WWChan in Hong Kong, and the customer is Will Boelke. Certain not a Malaysian tailor. No address, no phone number.
A Suitable Wardrobe!

This is my first time I've ever posted here but I have lurked and read posts for months. Just want to say thank you for tips, comments etc.
Grimm
post Jan 23 2011, 01:29 AM

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Yeah, Will from ASW.

Btw, I was looking high and low for Will's take on the essential 4 suits every man's wardrobe should have. Couldn't find it. Anyone wanna break it down for me?


irmond
post Jan 23 2011, 06:39 PM

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Can anyone advise me on this.

I've been thinking of altering my jeans or slack from regular fit to slim fit.

is it possible? hmm.gif
kotmj
post Jan 23 2011, 11:51 PM

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I read in this thread that Ruth's in KLCC is supposed to be good at alterations. My Uniqlo jacket needs the following done:

a) Rear side body seam taken in 1" at armscye deepening to 1.5" at the waistline. From here, the skirt is to be taken in 0.5" (both sides) to reduce flaring.

b) The rear armscye recut to reduce back drape by 0.5" each side.

c) The jacket is to be shortened by 1".

d) The sleeves are to be tapered.

e) The sleeves are to be shortened 0.75"

f) The quarters are to be opened more.

Should I go to Ruth's or should I use my usual bespoke tailor? Well actually, the jacket is already at said tailor for the listed alterations, but I was wondering if Ruth's would be better? Maybe Za Altera would be better even? Any comments?
MeToo
post Jan 24 2011, 04:48 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Dec 14 2010, 08:55 PM)
well the zegnas arrived. i wanted to order 4 pieces, but one was out of stock. so i paid for 3. but one of the three i received was very long. i measured it, it was 3.6 meters, enough for 2 shirts.
GOing back on posting i missed, I just noticed this.

3.6M enough for 2 shirts? I was under the impression you need about 3m (x90cm) for a single longsleeve shirt?
kotmj
post Jan 24 2011, 08:46 PM

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1.8m(X1.5m) is the standard shirting length at Grandi&Rubinelli. 2.0m at Alumo.

It depends on the width of the cloth (obviously).
pasquinel
post Feb 1 2011, 06:23 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Jan 22 2011, 08:34 PM)
I think it's a trap or a scam of somesort. In any case, the advertising is highly disingenious. The pic you see in the advertisement

user posted image

is of Patrick Chu of WWChan in Hong Kong, and the customer is Will Boelke. Certain not a Malaysian tailor. No address, no phone number.


Added on January 22, 2011, 10:03 pmBTW I discovered a new motherload of MOP buttons today. So cheap, so serviceable. I bought 4 dozen. Suk mai dik.
*
Seriously? I actually called them, but finally settled on Bespoked lol..
kotmj
post Feb 1 2011, 09:27 PM

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user posted image

user posted image
bushyboy105
post Feb 12 2011, 10:46 PM

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can i like modified my father's blazer to my size ah?
cause my father is fatter. i wanna make it tighter. is it possible?
Cheenoo
post Feb 12 2011, 11:25 PM

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QUOTE(bushyboy105 @ Feb 12 2011, 10:46 PM)
can i like modified my father's blazer to my size ah?
cause my father is fatter. i wanna make it tighter. is it possible?
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Yes
deriku
post Feb 12 2011, 11:55 PM

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I thought it should only be done if the shoulders fit? Else alteration may be tough if not impossible.
j00sed
post Feb 16 2011, 12:29 AM

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Revered Members, I'm new to the forum but I hope you can help with my query.I'm looking to overhaul my wardrobe to bespoked shirts and pants. Due to budget, will likely involve commisioning 1-2 piece of clothing a month (overly optimistic but a plan nonetheless). Taken the first step with Ron @ Fit and Match because of proximity to work place. Another tailor of well renown is also close to work place, but, they are also renowned for their pricing. Anyways, commisioned @ Ron's:

1. Shirt: Double button-cuff, Medium spread collar.
2. Trouser: Single Pleat, Button tabs, Cuffed

1st fitting (hopefully not the last) this weekend. Mainly wanted to try them out and determine if any future items are worth commisioning with them in the future. Ron was in a rush to leave (it was around 7pm) so didn't have to much time to talk to him although he did take the measurements for the trouser after hearing me mentioning my requirements to the other guy (think his name was Andy). Would very much prefer to speak to Ron since my command of Cantonese is limited to curse words and ordering food.

Long story short, I realize that the types of fabrics offered vs the price @ the shops are relatively high due to the margins. For the plan, would prefer to procure fabrics online and have the work done by a local tailor. As such, my noob queries on how I should proceed:

1. How much shirting fabric to buy for 1 shirt if referrring to the *ahem oaknut 90cm and 150cm width? (I'm about 176cm, 72kg, average built)
2. How much trouser fabric to buy for 1 trouser?
3. Saw some fabric of interest at a referenced suiting fabric seller on ebay and noticed the different types of wool (100s, 120s, merino wool, worsted wool, etc)
a) Which would best suited for our weather?
b) Merino vs worsted? Significant difference? Is one of lesser quality than the other?

No plans for suit(s) just yet due to budget contraints and rareness of use. Will have to endure the existing Bangkok made ones which I hope I don't have to put on too often.

Super 'cheong-hei' for my first posting but with your help, I hope to slowly replace the RTWs and Bangkok Disasters with the works of our local tailor(s). Appreciate any help/advice I can get.
kotmj
post Feb 16 2011, 12:01 PM

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1. Wat iz oaknut? (Clearly when even noobs know what it references I need to be even more obscure in the future)
2. Measure the length of your trouser from waistband till bottom hem then add 10 cm.
3a&b. Huiyo, complicated. Just buy something. When you have bought often enough you will know.
j00sed
post Feb 16 2011, 02:40 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Feb 16 2011, 12:01 PM)
1. Wat iz oaknut? (Clearly when even noobs know what it references I need to be even more obscure in the future)
2. Measure the length of your trouser from waistband till bottom hem then add 10 cm.
3a&b. Huiyo, complicated. Just buy something. When you have bought often enough you will know.
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kotmj, thanks for the info!
1. Well, there was a slip referencing said oaknut somewhere hence the intended effect of obscurity was not fully achieved.
3. I understand that this is something you have experienced and gone through in detail based on posts in this and other topics hence the reply "when you have bought enough, you will know". Indeed some growing pains to endure with the procurement of fabric then. sweat.gif

kotmj
post Feb 16 2011, 03:43 PM

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On the nutz website there are recommendations of lengths. AFAIK 2m for 36" and 3m for 60". But you're not supposed to buy 60" anyway.

Go with merino.
netmatrix2
post Feb 16 2011, 07:13 PM

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Heeeeeyyyyyyyyyyyyyy......!
j00sed
post Feb 19 2011, 12:18 PM

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ahhh..great. Again, much thanks! Now will have to wait and see if Ron will be the tailor of choice.




kotmj
post Feb 19 2011, 11:19 PM

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40 sen apiece
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Cheenoo
post Mar 5 2011, 12:40 PM

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My second bespoke chinos

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