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 The Tailoring Thread, Bespoke. Nothing beats a perfect fit

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new[x]
post Mar 5 2011, 01:17 PM

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Gentlemen,

How do you clean your bespoked shirts & trousers?

Previously, I have no problem asking my gf to dry clean it for me since she only pay a fixed amount of RM50 / month to a laundry at her place. These days, I can't risk placing one week clothes in her hand as I might not get it back! sweat.gif I ask laundries nearby my area and they quoted RM6-RM7 per shirt for dry cleaning. Is this a normal rate?

Or do you hand-wash them?

--------------------------------------------

Cheenoo,
Nice. Can you PM me your tailor? biggrin.gif
kotmj
post Mar 5 2011, 03:18 PM

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QUOTE(Cheenoo @ Mar 5 2011, 12:40 PM)
My second bespoke chinos

user posted image
*
all i see is the colour and that it has oversized mops


Added on March 5, 2011, 3:19 pmand that the thread used to sew the button is too thin

This post has been edited by kotmj: Mar 5 2011, 03:19 PM
bloke1
post Mar 5 2011, 04:02 PM

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I don't see an issue with using thinner thread to sew buttons provided the thread is made of strong silk. Bear in mind that with a thinner thread one can pass the needle through the cloth perhaps many times more compared to a thicker thread. That makes for a nice distribution of tension.
deriku
post Mar 5 2011, 06:38 PM

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QUOTE(newx @ Mar 5 2011, 01:17 PM)
Gentlemen,

How do you clean your bespoked shirts & trousers?

Previously, I have no problem asking my gf to dry clean it for me since she only pay a fixed amount of RM50 / month to a laundry at her place. These days, I can't risk placing one week clothes in her hand as I might not get it back! sweat.gif I ask laundries nearby my area and they quoted RM6-RM7 per shirt for dry cleaning. Is this a normal rate?

*
Dry cleaning is supposedly not good for shirts. Launder them to get more wears.
new[x]
post Mar 5 2011, 08:28 PM

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QUOTE(deriku @ Mar 5 2011, 06:38 PM)
Dry cleaning is supposedly not good for shirts. Launder them to get more wears.
*
i was thinking machine wash would damage the fabrics.
another thing is that i dont really enjoy ironing my shirts afterward. sad.gif

which is the lesser evil, machine wash or dry cleaning?


bloke1
post Mar 5 2011, 10:02 PM

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Hand wash is the only way

I don't really iron my shirts anymore. Hanging them in the closet for 1 week is good enough.
new[x]
post Mar 5 2011, 11:00 PM

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Thanks, bloke1!
How do you ensure your shirts don't crumple and look crisp?
Mind telling me the fabric type?

-------------------------------------

Hope you gentlemen can comment on my hand wash technique:
- Detergent choice
As I understand it, liquid detergent is better. But from my experience, washing powder works like charm too.

- Water temperature
Used to be warm but after reading on the net, suggested to go cold.

- Soaking period
What is the ideal period for this? <1 day? <1 hour?

- Brushing

- Rinse with water

- Soak in softener
Yeah, if not too lazy.

- Drying
Dryer must not be used, so hang them outside under indirect sun.
No wringing as well.

Anything else to add?

This process makes me appreciate ppl who do my laundries. sweat.gif


bloke1
post Mar 5 2011, 11:16 PM

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QUOTE(newx @ Mar 5 2011, 11:00 PM)
Thanks, bloke1!
How do you ensure your shirts don't crumple and look crisp?
Mind telling me the fabric type?
*
Mostly cotton or blends. They always crumple badly after wash.


Added on March 5, 2011, 11:21 pmAlways brush the collar/armpit/cuffs with a toothbrush

This post has been edited by bloke1: Mar 5 2011, 11:21 PM
MeToo
post Mar 7 2011, 11:02 AM

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QUOTE(newx @ Mar 5 2011, 11:00 PM)
Thanks, bloke1!
How do you ensure your shirts don't crumple and look crisp?
Mind telling me the fabric type?

-------------------------------------

Hope you gentlemen can comment on my hand wash technique:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
*
Huh? Are you kidding? Just toss them in the washing machine. If you have to hand wash every single tailor made cotton shirt.. you will be kinda busy? Its cotton for goodness sake..
kotmj
post Mar 7 2011, 02:23 PM

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The few posts above are so stupid that I really get what Einstein said about stupidity being infinite.


Added on March 7, 2011, 5:09 pmI have experimented with many ways to wash my clothes, especially shirts which seem to be more soiled than most other garments. Currently, my methodology is as follows.

1. Dump shirts inside out into washing machine (toploader).
2. Put in Sard Oxywash Degreaser. This is the harshest degreaser available locally, do not go for the "gentle on hands" version.
3. Select the lowest fill level that would barely immerse the clothes in water.
4. Let wash cycle run a few minutes in order to dissolve the degreaser.
5. Switch off washing machine and let clothes soak overnight or longer.
6. Put in expensive enzyme detergent and let machine run for a whole cycle which includes rinse and spin cycles. The fill level would be higher than what you selected for soaking.
7. Take out shirts, put on hanger and let air dry.
8. Iron shirts the way John Fracomb demonstrates in an online vid.

Those of you who actually think sending your shirts to a dry cleaner would get them dry cleaned are stupid and comatose and know nothing about anything and I would never hire you for any position. NONE of the shirts a "dry cleaner" receives are ever dry cleaned. They are laundered, with water and detergents in a washing machine with the clothes of dozens of other people you would never want to touch in person. None of you understand dry cleaning, do you? Because if you did it would be immediately apparent why dry cleaning is a non-option for them.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Mar 7 2011, 05:13 PM
new[x]
post Mar 7 2011, 10:34 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Mar 7 2011, 02:23 PM)
The few posts above are so stupid that I really get what Einstein said about stupidity being infinite.


Added on March 7, 2011, 5:09 pmI have experimented with many ways to wash my clothes, especially shirts which seem to be more soiled than most other garments. Currently, my methodology is as follows.

1. Dump shirts inside out into washing machine (toploader).
2. Put in Sard Oxywash Degreaser. This is the harshest degreaser available locally, do not go for the "gentle on hands" version.
3. Select the lowest fill level that would barely immerse the clothes in water.
4. Let wash cycle run a few minutes in order to dissolve the degreaser.
5. Switch off washing machine and let clothes soak overnight or longer.
6. Put in expensive enzyme detergent and let machine run for a whole cycle which includes rinse and spin cycles. The fill level would be higher than what you selected for soaking.
7. Take out shirts, put on hanger and let air dry.
8. Iron shirts the way John Fracomb demonstrates in an online vid.

Those of you who actually think sending your shirts to a dry cleaner would get them dry cleaned are stupid and comatose and know nothing about anything and I would never hire you for any position. NONE of the shirts a "dry cleaner" receives are ever dry cleaned. They are laundered, with water and detergents in a washing machine with the clothes of dozens of other people you would never want to touch in  person. None of you understand dry cleaning, do you? Because if you did it would be immediately apparent why dry cleaning is a non-option for them.
*
Yes, I remember now the youtube video that I watched previously was TM Lewin's!
Thanks but sincerely hope u cud get over with ur napoleon complex though. Hehe.. thumbup.gif
kotmj
post Mar 8 2011, 12:31 AM

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I recommend you talk less and think more.
praveenmarkandu
post Mar 8 2011, 10:18 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Mar 8 2011, 12:31 AM)
I recommend you talk less and think more.
*
where do you suggest i make a suit. i was thinking of wardrobe but since you wrote in another thread they suck, please provide some suggestions. thanks
kotmj
post Mar 8 2011, 10:59 AM

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I have never said Wardrobe sucks. I may have implied somewhewre that I would like certain Wardrobe employees to suck me.
praveenmarkandu
post Mar 8 2011, 11:15 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Mar 8 2011, 10:59 AM)
I have never said Wardrobe sucks. I may have implied somewhewre that I would like certain Wardrobe employees to suck me.
*
Ah. Right. As requested before. If you could provide me some suggestions of good tailors
kotmj
post Mar 8 2011, 11:31 AM

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Read my sticky.
MeToo
post Mar 10 2011, 12:20 AM

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Wardrobe...

This post has been edited by MeToo: Mar 10 2011, 12:21 AM


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MeToo
post Mar 10 2011, 12:22 AM

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But I dont like the rest of the shirt... let me get it laundered first...



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Cheenoo
post Mar 10 2011, 01:30 AM

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QUOTE(MeToo @ Mar 10 2011, 12:22 AM)
But I dont like the rest of the shirt... let me get it laundered first...
*
Whoa, harry hill collars. Contrast stitch buttons?

kotmj
post Mar 10 2011, 10:07 AM

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The MOP is very thick, the hand tacking very nice. I would have dispensed with the pocket, and kept the shirt 100% classic: no contrast buttonholes, no contrast inner cuffs and collars. The fit looks good, what about the fit don't you like?

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