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 The Tailoring Thread, Bespoke. Nothing beats a perfect fit

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j00sed
post Feb 16 2011, 12:29 AM

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Revered Members, I'm new to the forum but I hope you can help with my query.I'm looking to overhaul my wardrobe to bespoked shirts and pants. Due to budget, will likely involve commisioning 1-2 piece of clothing a month (overly optimistic but a plan nonetheless). Taken the first step with Ron @ Fit and Match because of proximity to work place. Another tailor of well renown is also close to work place, but, they are also renowned for their pricing. Anyways, commisioned @ Ron's:

1. Shirt: Double button-cuff, Medium spread collar.
2. Trouser: Single Pleat, Button tabs, Cuffed

1st fitting (hopefully not the last) this weekend. Mainly wanted to try them out and determine if any future items are worth commisioning with them in the future. Ron was in a rush to leave (it was around 7pm) so didn't have to much time to talk to him although he did take the measurements for the trouser after hearing me mentioning my requirements to the other guy (think his name was Andy). Would very much prefer to speak to Ron since my command of Cantonese is limited to curse words and ordering food.

Long story short, I realize that the types of fabrics offered vs the price @ the shops are relatively high due to the margins. For the plan, would prefer to procure fabrics online and have the work done by a local tailor. As such, my noob queries on how I should proceed:

1. How much shirting fabric to buy for 1 shirt if referrring to the *ahem oaknut 90cm and 150cm width? (I'm about 176cm, 72kg, average built)
2. How much trouser fabric to buy for 1 trouser?
3. Saw some fabric of interest at a referenced suiting fabric seller on ebay and noticed the different types of wool (100s, 120s, merino wool, worsted wool, etc)
a) Which would best suited for our weather?
b) Merino vs worsted? Significant difference? Is one of lesser quality than the other?

No plans for suit(s) just yet due to budget contraints and rareness of use. Will have to endure the existing Bangkok made ones which I hope I don't have to put on too often.

Super 'cheong-hei' for my first posting but with your help, I hope to slowly replace the RTWs and Bangkok Disasters with the works of our local tailor(s). Appreciate any help/advice I can get.
j00sed
post Feb 16 2011, 02:40 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Feb 16 2011, 12:01 PM)
1. Wat iz oaknut? (Clearly when even noobs know what it references I need to be even more obscure in the future)
2. Measure the length of your trouser from waistband till bottom hem then add 10 cm.
3a&b. Huiyo, complicated. Just buy something. When you have bought often enough you will know.
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kotmj, thanks for the info!
1. Well, there was a slip referencing said oaknut somewhere hence the intended effect of obscurity was not fully achieved.
3. I understand that this is something you have experienced and gone through in detail based on posts in this and other topics hence the reply "when you have bought enough, you will know". Indeed some growing pains to endure with the procurement of fabric then. sweat.gif

j00sed
post Feb 19 2011, 12:18 PM

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ahhh..great. Again, much thanks! Now will have to wait and see if Ron will be the tailor of choice.





 

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