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 The Tailoring Thread, Bespoke. Nothing beats a perfect fit

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HaN18
post Aug 16 2010, 12:37 AM

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QUOTE(bloke1 @ Aug 15 2010, 10:46 PM)
Abang Fusionsex, it's time to wake up.
Totally, utterly, completely, absolutely wrong. Read below.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suit_%28clothing%29
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I like this!!

so Mr. Bloke1 do you know any good tailor in Penang?
kotmj
post Aug 16 2010, 01:04 AM

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QUOTE(HaN18 @ Aug 15 2010, 10:37 PM)
My sister graduation are coming near and i need a suit for that event!! I need a casual suit!! My budget around 1k-2k!! Is there any good tailoring in Penang? I don't mind travel all the way down to KL
If penang doesn't have!

Oh yeah, Suit is including shirt, blazer, pants right?? correct me if i'm worng!
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You probably don't need a suit. Go for a linen sportscoat. Fully canvassed, of course (the way it should be). Is your father influential? Tell him to phone around to smell out someone who would do a fully canvassed suit in heavyish (11-13 oz) linen. Half-lined with ermazine. MOP buttons. Patch pockets. Single button.

The problem with suits is that they are quite dramatic. You do not wear one without an appropriate occasion. But sportsjackets, especially in linen, you can wear for no reason, i.e. to the cinema, restaurants, travelling, etc.
malutapimau
post Aug 16 2010, 07:09 PM

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QUOTE(bloke1 @ Aug 15 2010, 10:08 PM)
Mr. Malu, how is your tailoring apprenticeship in Lorong Savile going on?
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i learnt how to properly operate a sewing machine---------im now experimenting the highest density stitch ever,,,,,,this will be complimented with a natural / relaxed / no-rushing pickstitch work on the seams later on,,,,
Cheenoo
post Aug 16 2010, 07:52 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Aug 16 2010, 01:04 AM)



The problem with suits is that they are quite dramatic. You do not wear one without an appropriate occasion. But sportsjackets, especially in linen, you can wear for no reason, i.e. to the cinema, restaurants, travelling, etc.
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QFT.

QUOTE(malutapimau @ Aug 16 2010, 07:09 PM)
i learnt how to properly operate a sewing machine---------im now experimenting the highest density stitch ever,,,,,,this will be complimented with a natural / relaxed / no-rushing pickstitch work on the seams later on,,,,
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When you are done, make me a pair of shorts with the highest density stitching physically possible. =P
bloke1
post Aug 16 2010, 07:59 PM

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On sleepless nights, I spent quite some time doing pickstitching on my pants, jackets, shirts, wallet, shoes, everything. Perhaps you can evaluate my handwork some day.


Added on August 16, 2010, 8:19 pmWith respect to pick-stitching, do you think the needle should go all the way down, piercing both layers of the cloth OR just a running stitch on the right side of the cloth? The former would result in visible stitches on the underside of the fabric, the latter doesn't.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Aug 16 2010, 08:20 PM
beau
post Aug 16 2010, 08:49 PM

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QUOTE(silencer @ Aug 15 2010, 05:04 PM)
Yup...had tailored 11 shirt frm ALT in the last 2 months...and so far I have no complaint beside the charges that keep increasing...
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Ah-The price of fame. More Galley Slaves to power the ALT Barge besides the two.

He made a reasonable copy of a Jermyn Street shirt with some minor Italian undertone for me but ( eg shirt buttons that sit on a purl with shanked buttons etc ) Unfortunately the fit was too tight . I have since taken measurements from another custom made shirt for a second attempt with some additional details.

He was in pain when I explained to him that I wanted cuffs with larger circumferences on my watch wearing arm etc. , gathered cuffs etc .

If this second attempt works out, I will start him working on my better fabrics.

The workmanship is in my opinion is not bad. Once the fit issue is resolved , it should be 75 to 80% close to the better European Shirt makers.


Added on August 16, 2010, 8:52 pm
QUOTE(bloke1 @ Aug 16 2010, 07:59 PM)
On sleepless nights, I spent quite some time doing pickstitching on my pants, jackets, shirts, wallet, shoes, everything. Perhaps you can evaluate my handwork some day.


Added on August 16, 2010, 8:19 pmWith respect to pick-stitching, do you think the needle should go all the way down, piercing both layers of the cloth OR just a running stitch on the right side of the cloth? The former would result in visible stitches on the underside of the fabric, the latter doesn't.
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I would be interested to view your efforts in particular the cuff button holes & lapels. Can't advise you on the techniques but if you do a good job, we should outsource the finishing of our ALT's to you!!

This post has been edited by beau: Aug 16 2010, 08:52 PM
malutapimau
post Aug 16 2010, 09:04 PM

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i dont know,,,i think it depends on which part of cloth you are working on-----i tot the former is a pickstitch while the latter is what people call a runningstitch?

actually, im thinking of sending my assignment pants to perak for some masterpiece da bomb pickstich art by lokesifu----------------
bloke1
post Aug 17 2010, 12:39 AM

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QUOTE(beau @ Aug 16 2010, 08:49 PM)

Added on August 16, 2010, 8:52 pm

I would be interested to view your efforts in particular the cuff button holes & lapels. Can't advise you on the techniques but if you do a good job, we should outsource the finishing of our ALT's to you!!
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My services can probably cost you both of your kidneys. I might even have to take away your lungs if you request for super high density pickstitching(9 spi). brows.gif

QUOTE(malutapimau @ Aug 16 2010, 09:04 PM)
i dont know,,,i think it depends on which part of cloth you are working on-----i tot the former is a pickstitch while the latter is what people call a runningstitch?

actually, im thinking of sending my assignment pants to perak for some masterpiece da bomb pickstich art by lokesifu----------------
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But a running stitch can be made to look like pickstitching. icon_idea.gif After all, pick stitching on pants are merely for aesthetic reasons. Lapels are of course a diff story. Personally, I find that running stitches are much easier to execute.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Aug 17 2010, 12:47 AM
silencer
post Aug 17 2010, 01:13 AM

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Oh my God...Guys..get a life...go practicing your stitch skill at girls button holes and lapels....
MeToo
post Aug 17 2010, 10:46 AM

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QUOTE(beau @ Aug 16 2010, 08:49 PM)

He was in pain when I explained to him that I wanted cuffs with larger circumferences on my watch wearing arm etc.

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Sir, this here is one of the best idea that comes out of this thread. Majority of the other posts were more like "This is what I have, but I aint sharing the source/idea with ya! nyeh nyeh!"


kotmj
post Aug 17 2010, 10:52 AM

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QUOTE(MeToo @ Aug 17 2010, 10:46 AM)
Sir, this here is one of the best idea that comes out of this thread. Majority of the other posts were more like "This is what I have, but I aint sharing the source/idea with ya! nyeh nyeh!"
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Mediocre idea at best.
new[x]
post Aug 17 2010, 01:09 PM

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Hi everyone.

I have grown bored with buying ready-made office pants e.g. G2000 and thinking of getting them tailored. Which tailor would you guys recommend and why? I have read some pages in this thread and it seems like you guys are talking about suits and shirts. What about tailored pant without the jacket?

Also, what are the things that I should know and consider? I am very new to this...

Thank you very much!! notworthy.gif

kotmj
post Aug 17 2010, 03:15 PM

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user posted image

Two 100% linens. The sky blue on the left is already a shirt, the one on the right soon to be.

user posted image
beau
post Aug 17 2010, 04:37 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Aug 17 2010, 03:15 PM)
user posted image

Two 100% linens. The sky blue on the left is already a shirt, the one on the right soon to be.

user posted image
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Good job-I was trying to persuade AL to make the thread slightly longer at the collar as it would be more comfortable but he was giving me grief for it. Managed to persuade him to make the collar buttonhole asymmetrical as this would make it more comfortable button up.

Is he making your new shirt with matching patterns & a split yoke ?


Added on August 17, 2010, 4:43 pm
QUOTE(MeToo @ Aug 17 2010, 10:46 AM)
Sir, this here is one of the best idea that comes out of this thread. Majority of the other posts were more like "This is what I have, but I aint sharing the source/idea with ya! nyeh nyeh!"
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Thanks-I've had to cater for larger watches which is all the rage these days!!

This is a normal question raised by many of the better shirt makers overseas. Our local tailors are probably unused to a more sophisticated & demanding clientele which in turn lowers the standards for bespoke products. It's a vicious circle!!


Added on August 17, 2010, 4:45 pm
QUOTE(bloke1 @ Aug 17 2010, 12:39 AM)
My services can probably cost you both of your kidneys. I might even have to take away your lungs if you request for super high density pickstitching(9 spi). brows.gif
But a running stitch can be made to look like pickstitching. icon_idea.gif After all, pick stitching on pants are merely for aesthetic reasons. Lapels are of course a diff story. Personally, I find that running stitches are much easier to execute.
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The lungs you can have if you want to tar the highway but your head & testicles we will take if you ruin the super fine Vicuna fabric we send your way!!

This post has been edited by beau: Aug 17 2010, 04:45 PM
bloke1
post Aug 17 2010, 08:21 PM

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user posted image

Lopsided button. Minus 100 points.


Added on August 17, 2010, 9:36 pm
QUOTE(MeToo @ Aug 17 2010, 10:46 AM)
Sir, this here is one of the best idea that comes out of this thread. Majority of the other posts were more like "This is what I have, but I aint sharing the source/idea with ya! nyeh nyeh!"
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Sounds very Kakmj

This post has been edited by bloke1: Aug 17 2010, 09:36 PM
bloke1
post Aug 17 2010, 09:45 PM

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Just replaced all buttons on my 'linen' pants.
[attachmentid=1732050]

beau
post Aug 17 2010, 10:17 PM

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QUOTE(bloke1 @ Aug 17 2010, 09:45 PM)
Just replaced all buttons on my 'linen' pants.
[attachmentid=1732050]
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Button fly too?
bloke1
post Aug 17 2010, 10:19 PM

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Nop. That's the extended hook and button closure.
HaN18
post Aug 17 2010, 11:52 PM

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Hey guys! I just came back from a tailor shop name FOX in Penang! and got a quotation full suit blazer(wool) + pants + shirt 1750 do you think it is worth? the Blazer already cost me 1470!! hmmm..
bloke1
post Aug 18 2010, 09:29 AM

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What a cunning fox

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