Not sure if this is affiliated to the one in KLCC

1. Does the cost include the fabric and,
2. What type of fabric are they providing
3. How many fittings do they provide
4. Is the jacket fully canvassed? Collars of shirt fused/non fused?
5. What other features does the jacket incorporate ? Bemberg lining?, horn buttons , half lined trousers, working cuffs? pick stitched lapels?

You may have overpaid for polyester if it is anything less than a Super 120's pure wool and/or high thread count pure cotton shirt

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Added on August 18, 2010, 11:22 amEspecially if they can command these prices for glue & polyester!!

This post has been edited by beau: Aug 18 2010, 11:22 AM

What do you mean by an asymmetrical buttonhole?

My new linen shirts will be made by ISTT (Introverted Small Town Tailor) (half the price of AL).

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Added on August 18, 2010, 4:29 pmToo expensive, too lousy. Have you even seen the display suits that Fox has (in KLCC, for instance). They are so relentlessly bad I do not even bother to go talk shop with them.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Aug 18 2010, 04:49 PM

anyone has experience w/ stretch wool fabrics? (like 95% wool, 5% lycra)

http://www.trimfabric.com/k-758.html

what do you think?

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or should i just go for the real deal? (pure wool)

http://www.trimfabric.com/01-wl-168.html

http://www.trimfabric.com/01-wl-286.html

real deal

Stretch stuff are great for casual wear.

they're not durable. the lycra dries up and becomes brittle and breaks.

you have tried them?

i think im getting teh yellow check,,,, it suits local hot (ala summer) weather better,,

for that reason, im getting this

http://www.trimfabric.com/uu-693.html

what do you think?

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Added on August 19, 2010, 11:12 pmtheyre are only 5% to 10%most,,,,not 20-30% like the women stuffs-------------

This post has been edited by malutapimau: Aug 19 2010, 11:16 PM

Interesting, I don't think I have touched stretchy heavy cotton twill before. I like heavy cotton twill though, i have a pair of navy chinos made out of them, feels like they will last forever!

But I don't think a jacket in that would be outstanding, at least not in that colour.

Go to any kedai bundle, plenty of stretch denim. i had stretch undershirts before from H&M, 3 of them, and they self destructed before my normal cottons. They self destruct in a strange way, try it and you will see. Quite charming actually.

guys, I wanna alter the sleeve length of my shirt.

any good tailor to recomend around PJ area and wat would the price be?

Due to the many offers from forum members to send me their pubescent sisters for a weekend of smutty debauchery if I would only write a guide on how to bespeak oneself a shirt, I have decided to put pen to paper. Here is the first installment, which treats the barrel cuff.

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Let’s start off with barrel cuffs. There is really no reason for them to be stiff. The best cuffs are those which are soft, yet have enough body to not collapse and wrinkle. This body is best achieved by a sew-in layer of cotton muslin. Cuffs should not be fused. I’m convinced you will be pleasantly surprised by how much nicer to wear a soft unfused cuff is.


Cotton muslin interlining in a cuff

There is no consensus about the optimal circumference of the cuffs. There is a tailoring tradition in many countries, including ours, to have large-diameter cuffs that reach down so low as to cover a third of your palms. I have questioned tailors who make their cuffs this way as to why, and the replies have been consistent: That’s the way it is done if you want to wear a suit jacket over it. The way I see it, such cuffs are a hindrance to the use of your hands and causes the cuffs to be soiled faster than they need be. So have your cuffs narrow; so narrow in fact that they hardly encroach upon your palms. If you can, with care, wash your hands without wetting your cuffs, they are the right diameter.

You should have 2 buttons on the cuffs, arranged parallel to the rotational axis of the cuff. Cuffs buttoned with a single button tend to scissor around that button, causing the cuff to take on a conical shape.


Double-buttoned cuffs maintain their circumference across their length

2.5” is a good height for cuffs.

Dear Sir,

Might I suggest starting a new thread just for this, so it can be stickied?

send your fiancee my way for a few days and i might write about sleeves...

Surely there are stylistic considerations:-

1. For formal dressing some may prefer French or turn back cuffs along with a nice pair of cufflinks
2. Some may prefer the faux turn backs a la James Bond for greater individuality
3. Would a button on the gauntlet of the sleeve help ?
4. What about the Turnbull & Asser style 3 button cuffs?

does cotton muslin interfacing available locally?

1. The article treats only the barrel cuff.
2. ditto
3. Article on sleeves will be written when MeToo sends me his fiancee.
4. One button too many.

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Added on August 21, 2010, 6:36 pmOught to be, but I was unsuccessful at sourcing them. So I'm using premium white Panama weave pure linen instead.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Aug 21 2010, 06:36 PM

Wholeheartedly agree that non-fused cuffs and collars add a great amount to comfort - so much so that I find it hard to to put on my older shirts with stiff interfacing now.

Cotton muslin is great, but certainly isn't the only option. I've had success with getting my tailor to self-line the collars and cuffs. Two additional layers for thinner fabrics, and one for heavier ones. Or white pinpoint cotton would work as well.. be creative!

If that softness is not desired, non-fusibles are available in a variety of weights. Hwa Seng's swiss cotton non-fusible is fairly stiff and would work well for French cuffs, though I have something against FCs.

I'm looking to reverse engineer one of my Italian made shirts ( when it gets old ) to ascertain how the Italians manage to create this wonderful balance between softness & structure.

1. What I have seen the bespoke shirt makers do there is to place the button on a barrel cuff closer to the edge ( on one button barrel cuff shirts ) along with a smaller 14L button on the gauntlet to deal with the problem.

2. Likewise Turnbull & Asser as well as some Italian shirtmakers place the button holes of their French cuff shirts closer to the edge to achieve the same effect.

3. Three buttons can be regarded as fussy but many Italian who buy T & A button the center button to add some "spez" to their attire.

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Added on August 22, 2010, 1:03 amFrench Cuffs are very personal but the added weight of the cufflink allows the shirt sleeve to fall better & show through the jacket sleeve , a nice touch with formal dress.

The Italians will add their usual "spez" by wearing FC without cufflinks & their jacket sleeves slightly folded to give it the added spice.

This post has been edited by beau: Aug 22 2010, 01:03 AM

mind if I ask, is it possible if I want to alter my shirt length?
if it is, where can I do it? can someone recommend me a good tailor in Damansara area?

Sleeve length or body length? Is the alteration substantial?