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 The Tailoring Thread, Bespoke. Nothing beats a perfect fit

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beau
post Aug 4 2010, 10:48 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Aug 3 2010, 07:41 PM)
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Added on August 3, 2010, 7:46 pmI put on Zuperpent+ during the lunch hour, this time properly with braces, and once again after work (I'm wearing it right now), and wow, just wow. I now understand what the line is all about. Zuperpent+ isn't baggy, it is perfect when worn with braces. I totally understand why old dead men wanted their trousers this way.


Added on August 3, 2010, 8:39 pmuser posted image
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Braces allows the trousers to fall properly especially when worn with a suit.

Having said that , braces tend to work better with the full cut Saville Row style pants as opposed to the Italian low rise cuts as it would probably cut into the "family jewels" a la ALT pants. BTW have you managed to persuade AL to make you trousers with a higher rise?
kotmj
post Aug 6 2010, 04:35 AM

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My latest pair of ALT trousers do not cut into the family jewels. He will cut you anything, you just have to insist on it for long enough.

He said trouser forks are like armholes: the higher the better. His sister joined him, saying it will make going up stairs easier. Etc.

But what use are all these when my testicles are gangrened?
beau
post Aug 6 2010, 07:52 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Aug 6 2010, 04:35 AM)
My latest pair of ALT trousers do not cut into the family jewels. He will cut you anything, you just have to insist on it for long enough.

He said trouser forks are like armholes: the higher the better. His sister joined him, saying it will make going up stairs easier. Etc.

But what use are all these when my testicles are gangrened?
*
Pictures please.

Your comments have made me looked at the construction of my clothes more closely .

Trousers are not as simple as two straight tubes of cloth. There is a great deal of "engineering " involved.
1. The traditional Italian tailors include extra internal fastenings which allow the trousers to stay flat & neat during wear.
2. The Italian also include internal pleats in the waist band to facilitate movement & mobility
3. The "V" cut at the rear allows the waistband to flex especially after one too many Nasi Lemaks
4. Side pads at the bottom part of the trousers , which if correctly positioned will reduce friction when wearing the trousers & increase it's longevity.
5. Half lining also increases the comfort of wearing the trousers.

I'll pose pictures once my download limit is lifted.

p.s. The cutter on the Row will ask you which side do you sleep , a euphemism for which side little P falls on , left or right. Apparently this affects the cut & drape!!
bloke1
post Aug 6 2010, 12:49 PM

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Here's some handwork on my pair of pants.

[attachmentid=1712198]
kotmj
post Aug 6 2010, 12:53 PM

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You unpicked the machine sewing and restitched it yourself?
bloke1
post Aug 6 2010, 01:02 PM

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Sort of. A tiny rip appeared, so I thought I'll just remove more of the stitches and handstitch it myself.
kotmj
post Aug 6 2010, 01:24 PM

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I went to 2 kedai bundles in KL yesterday and found nothing sad.gif

The sort of bundle shop I like are those which

1) are large, very large,
2) have been in operation for at least 15+ years,
3) and buy "unsorted" bundles, i.e. real bundles (surprises) and not those which have been pre-sorted into AAA grade jeans, A grade T-shirts etc.

2 and 3 are important because it allows the accumulation of stubbornly unsaleable items such as fishtail back trousers in heavy winterweight wool, and suit jackets, some of which are fully-canvassed bespoke.

Alas, there are few such bundle shops.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Aug 6 2010, 01:26 PM
bloke1
post Aug 6 2010, 03:51 PM

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You haven't told us where did you sought Zuperpent+!


Added on August 6, 2010, 3:59 pmI wonder how seams look like before the invention of the sewing machine. Up to date I still couldn't find one garment constructed solely by hand stitches, no sewing machine.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Aug 6 2010, 04:41 PM
kotmj
post Aug 7 2010, 12:01 AM

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It is taking Acorn two centuries to process my order.
malutapimau
post Aug 7 2010, 07:35 AM

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QUOTE(bloke1 @ Aug 6 2010, 03:51 PM)
You haven't told us where did you sought Zuperpent+!


Added on August 6, 2010, 3:59 pmI wonder how seams look like before the invention of the sewing machine. Up to date I still couldn't find one garment constructed solely by hand stitches, no sewing machine.
*
i have----it will look exactly your hand restitched pants

QUOTE(kotmj @ Aug 7 2010, 12:01 AM)
It is taking Acorn two centuries to process my order.
*
you ordered? w/o group buy?

kotmj
post Aug 7 2010, 10:03 AM

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There is no advantage to ordering more than 2pcs at a time. Hence, no point doing a group buy. But if i were just ordering 1 pc, group buy would make sense.
bloke1
post Aug 7 2010, 12:24 PM

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QUOTE(malutapimau @ Aug 7 2010, 07:35 AM)
i have----it will look exactly your hand restitched pants

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Do you own an antique garment? I've heard that clothing produced pre-1860 were all made that way.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Aug 7 2010, 04:31 PM
kotmj
post Aug 7 2010, 04:13 PM

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I am back in my hometown and just now i went to the biggest bundle shop of my life!!!!!!!!!!! rows and rows of japanese suit jackets, most of them fully canvassed!!!!!!!!!!!! a very nice pow jacket! tweed! dbs galore! christian diore!
bloke1
post Aug 7 2010, 04:30 PM

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Show off lah.


Added on August 7, 2010, 4:34 pmYou should seriously consider setting up your own bundle store. In fact, I have dubbed it KotBundle.


Added on August 7, 2010, 5:38 pmOn second thought, I don't think the handwork on my pants would be a good idea. Even grandma said, "Gum yuk suen!" I'm sending it off to MBT.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Aug 7 2010, 05:38 PM
kotmj
post Aug 7 2010, 07:58 PM

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Haih, about 70% of the jackets there are fully canvassed, but none of them are bespoke! They are factory-made garments and have minimal handwork.

The problem with this shop is they are too new, and have not had the chance to accumulate unsaleble stuff.

I did see a navy club blazer with an embroidered emblem on the chest pocket with.....swappable buttons!

In the end I ended up buying 3 remarkable ties for RM8, one of them is a Stefano Ricci.
beau
post Aug 8 2010, 09:02 AM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Aug 7 2010, 07:58 PM)
Haih, about 70% of the jackets there are fully canvassed, but none of them are bespoke! They are factory-made garments and have minimal handwork.

The problem with this shop is they are too new, and have not had the chance to accumulate unsaleble stuff.

I did see a navy club blazer with an embroidered emblem on the chest pocket with.....swappable buttons!

In the end I ended up buying 3 remarkable ties for RM8, one of them is a Stefano Ricci.
*
Don't forget to visit these places when you are in the Fatherland. Found an old Welsh & Jeffries Dinner Jacket with Shawl lapel for STG5 at Oxfam during my student days. It was probably a 1940's vintage ,very well constructed ( but heavy ) & served me well for black tie dinners until the grosgrain wore off.

Pity I gave it away during my frequent house moves as it would have been an excellent template ( or challenge ) for ALT to follow.
kotmj
post Aug 8 2010, 10:08 AM

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I see that there are 2 Oxfams in the city I'll be going to. I'll definitely drop in to both.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Aug 8 2010, 10:18 AM
kotmj
post Aug 8 2010, 12:07 PM

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Zuperpent+ worn at my natural waist. My 84-year old grandmother says it looks fantastic. Tiew tai (hanging belt) = braces. The hem is too long so I rolled it up. It has not been altered in any way, nor will I let anyone alter it. This is my best bundle shop buy to date. The shop is somewhere in Puchong. I had it dry cleaned.

user posted image

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She just told me I look like a big boss with them on. Hoa leng ah!

bloke1
post Aug 8 2010, 02:50 PM

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Boo!

This post has been edited by bloke1: Aug 8 2010, 07:36 PM
kotmj
post Aug 8 2010, 09:46 PM

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You're just jealous.

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