Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

149 Pages « < 51 52 53 54 55 > » Bottom

Outline · [ Standard ] · Linear+

 The Tailoring Thread, Bespoke. Nothing beats a perfect fit

views
     
new[x]
post Aug 23 2010, 02:21 PM

Casual
***
Junior Member
411 posts

Joined: Aug 2010


I have a question on tailored pants.

Is fitting necessary? I was asked to do fitting but told my tailor that I am only able to attend some time on mid September. Then, the other guy measure me up and they told me that no fitting is necessary. Is this your experience with tailored pants as well?

Thanks! smile.gif
kotmj
post Aug 23 2010, 02:29 PM

The Coatmaker's Apprentice
*******
Senior Member
3,802 posts

Joined: Apr 2009
From: City of Anggerik


How do you know when a pair of trousers fit? What's the point of a fitting session?
new[x]
post Aug 23 2010, 02:32 PM

Casual
***
Junior Member
411 posts

Joined: Aug 2010


QUOTE(kotmj @ Aug 23 2010, 02:29 PM)
How do you know when a pair of trousers fit? What's the point of a fitting session?
*
Care to elaborate more? Did you mean there is no need for a fitting session for tailored trousers?
kotmj
post Aug 23 2010, 02:48 PM

The Coatmaker's Apprentice
*******
Senior Member
3,802 posts

Joined: Apr 2009
From: City of Anggerik


never mind
SUSrizq
post Aug 23 2010, 03:05 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
66 posts

Joined: May 2010
From: The Pearly Gates



QUOTE(beau @ Aug 23 2010, 10:20 AM)
Sleeve length or body length? Is the alteration substantial?
*
body length..
beau
post Aug 23 2010, 09:41 PM

On my way
****
Senior Member
572 posts

Joined: Jul 2010


[quote=rizq,Aug 23 2010, 03:05 PM]
body length..
*

[quote]

There's a alteration shop at Centrepoint , Bandar Utama on the ground floor that does alterations. Best avoid the Raya period . Unless the shirt length is extremely long & you plan to wear the shirt casually, you might be better off saving your money. Longer shirt length will help prevent a shirt tail from riding up during the working day
kotmj
post Aug 24 2010, 03:23 PM

The Coatmaker's Apprentice
*******
Senior Member
3,802 posts

Joined: Apr 2009
From: City of Anggerik


The Acorns arrived today. AZ Pink is an exuberant pink -- this is going to be difficult to pull off in my office. The tan check OTOH, is muted and autumnal.

These cloths feel luxurious to my plebeian hands. They are not, however, as thick as I was led to believe. They are much better than most RTW cloths.

I'm going to have the cut edges serged then wash them a few times with my laundry before I send them off to be made up.
malutapimau
post Aug 24 2010, 04:10 PM

Enthusiast
*****
Senior Member
751 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
are they softer compared to premium cottons @ jln.tar?
kotmj
post Aug 24 2010, 04:32 PM

The Coatmaker's Apprentice
*******
Senior Member
3,802 posts

Joined: Apr 2009
From: City of Anggerik


I wouldn't buy anything from Jln TAR anymore, not at those markups. Moreover, the cloths at Jln TAR are of unknown provenance. "Italian cloths, Sir, the best you can buy," isn't my idea of provenance.

These are very nice cloths. You can choose from the entire range, and you buy from the manufacturer (no retail markup). They are delivered by post to your office. About RM120/shirting length, postage included.
malutapimau
post Aug 24 2010, 05:00 PM

Enthusiast
*****
Senior Member
751 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
you should get their irish linen
kotmj
post Aug 24 2010, 05:58 PM

The Coatmaker's Apprentice
*******
Senior Member
3,802 posts

Joined: Apr 2009
From: City of Anggerik


QUOTE(malutapimau @ Aug 24 2010, 05:00 PM)
you should get their irish linen
*
I cannot afford their linen. I have far cheaper sources for it. Right now I'm sitting on 4 pieces of linen to be made up.

------------------------------------------------------------------

Let’s move on to the tubular piece of cloth to which the cuffs are attached: the sleeves. Unlike the cuffs, which should be narrow, optimal sleeves must strike a balance between being too narrow and too wide, and between being too long and too short.

Sleeves are too narrow when you feel the cloth straining when you bend your elbows. Overly narrow sleeves cause not only physical discomfort; the strain on the sleeves at the elbow area causes the cloth there to develop severe and ugly wrinkling. Sleeves, however, should not be too wide and it is here that RTW shirts fail most miserably: they have sleeves that billow about the wind, and share no relation whatsoever to the arms they envelope. A wide sleeve necessarily results in a low armhole. A low armhole is a heinous thing to have on a shirt. You would pull out your shirttails shoving your bag into the overhead compartment of an airplane, it pulls the torso of your shirt here and there with your arm movements, and it bunches around your armpits when you put on a properly cut suit jacket. Optimal sleeves are those which are just wide enough to offer no resistance to your bending your elbows – and no wider.

There is nothing less elegant than the bunching of overly long sleeves. But how short can one get away with making sleeves? The following picture of a shirt measuring session with the famed shirtmaker Turnbull & Asser gives you a clue.
The sleeves should be just long enough that the cuff does not retract from your wrist when you adopt the following pose:

user posted image

In the next installment, we deal with the torso of the shirt.

beau
post Aug 25 2010, 07:41 AM

On my way
****
Senior Member
572 posts

Joined: Jul 2010


QUOTE(kotmj @ Aug 24 2010, 05:58 PM)
I cannot afford their linen. I have far cheaper sources for it. Right now I'm sitting on 4 pieces of linen to be made up.

------------------------------------------------------------------

Let’s move on to the tubular piece of cloth to which the cuffs are attached: the sleeves. Unlike the cuffs, which should be narrow, optimal sleeves must strike a balance between being too narrow and too wide, and between being too long and too short.

Sleeves are too narrow when you feel the cloth straining when you bend your elbows. Overly narrow sleeves cause not only physical discomfort; the strain on the sleeves at the elbow area causes the cloth there to develop severe and ugly wrinkling. Sleeves, however, should not be too wide and it is here that RTW shirts fail most miserably: they have sleeves that billow about the wind, and share no relation whatsoever to the arms they envelope. A wide sleeve necessarily results in a low armhole. A low armhole is a heinous thing to have on a shirt. You would pull out your shirttails shoving your bag into the overhead compartment of an airplane, it pulls the torso of your shirt here and there with your arm movements, and it bunches around your armpits when you put on a properly cut suit jacket. Optimal sleeves are those which are just wide enough to offer no resistance to your bending your elbows – and no wider.

There is nothing less elegant than the bunching of overly long sleeves. But how short can one get away with making sleeves? The following picture of a shirt measuring session with the famed shirtmaker Turnbull & Asser gives you a clue.
The sleeves should be just long enough that the cuff does not retract from your wrist when you adopt the following pose:

user posted image

In the next installment, we deal with the torso of the shirt.
*
These series of articles should be put in the pinned section of the forum.

kotmj
post Aug 25 2010, 10:12 AM

The Coatmaker's Apprentice
*******
Senior Member
3,802 posts

Joined: Apr 2009
From: City of Anggerik


Is this a good colour for a shirt or is it yucks?

user posted image
MeToo
post Aug 25 2010, 12:04 PM

Look at all my stars!!
*******
Senior Member
9,333 posts

Joined: May 2009
QUOTE(kotmj @ Aug 25 2010, 10:12 AM)
Is this a good colour for a shirt or is it yucks?

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
Looks like my highschool uniform shirt colour.
malutapimau
post Aug 25 2010, 01:24 PM

Enthusiast
*****
Senior Member
751 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
isit green?
beau
post Aug 25 2010, 02:30 PM

On my way
****
Senior Member
572 posts

Joined: Jul 2010


QUOTE(kotmj @ Aug 25 2010, 10:12 AM)
Is this a good colour for a shirt or is it yucks?

user posted image
*
Difficult to tell from the picture. Is it sky blue? What is the thread count ? 2 ply? Single ply?
kotmj
post Aug 25 2010, 03:02 PM

The Coatmaker's Apprentice
*******
Senior Member
3,802 posts

Joined: Apr 2009
From: City of Anggerik


I dun think I like that colour after all.

All linen (almost) are single ply.


Added on August 25, 2010, 3:13 pmIt's a greenish turquoise.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Aug 25 2010, 03:13 PM
bloke1
post Aug 25 2010, 07:12 PM

Yang Paling Cemerlang
*****
Senior Member
996 posts

Joined: Jan 2010
From: City of Angkorek


That color would make the perfect pair of lala pants.
Cheenoo
post Aug 25 2010, 07:22 PM

Alpha as fuck
*****
Senior Member
845 posts

Joined: May 2010


You forget that he already owns a pair of pants in that colour.
U+FFFD
post Aug 25 2010, 07:42 PM


*******
Senior Member
2,356 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
The colour of that shirting isn't really my cup of tea.

-

QUOTE(Cheenoo @ Aug 25 2010, 07:22 PM)
You forget that he already owns a pair of pants in that colour.
*
I remember Loke-chai has a pair in the same colour as well (albeit with much darker tone). I'm sure I have the pictures somewhere in my hard disk.

This post has been edited by Fusion[eX]: Aug 25 2010, 07:43 PM

149 Pages « < 51 52 53 54 55 > » Top
 

Change to:
| Lo-Fi Version
0.0198sec    0.56    6 queries    GZIP Disabled
Time is now: 4th December 2025 - 12:28 PM