dude i would like to ask about your line 2 and 3... in line 2, u say i cant possibly mix mr colour thinner with tamiya's ACRYLIC paints but in line 3, u say mr colour thinner can mix with ACRYLIC paints from both mr colour and tamiya brand.... both saying the opposite facts le...

so, which is true now?

in line 2 he is referring to mr color lacquer thinner ...... line 3 he is referring to mr color acrylic thinner .......

can someone help i 'm thinking to build a diorama house

Errm to clarify my previous post... im using the ORIGINAL names of the thinner...

MR. COLOR THINNER is used to thin lacquer paints.

EXAMPLE : http://www.xl-shop.com/xlshop/pages/produc...ctId=MRH-545817



MR. HOBBY COLOR THINNER is used to thin acrylics.

EXAMPLE : http://www.xl-shop.com/xlshop/pages/produc...uctId=HC-519495



Clear ? Take note of the names....



This post has been edited by noob4life: May 30 2008, 01:32 PM

wana ask is oil based paint = laquer ???
ididnt notice Mr.color paint is oil based last time ,waster few ml of paint after i add tamiya thinner into causing it to cluttered and wasted a metal painting pan

hmmm and the mr hobby water based paint not that really can mixed with water after i add some water got some "tindak balas" like boiling hot water but wasted the paint .....i saw this from a hobby meg ask us to add water.... so i guess malaysian water is different from japanese water

anyway, water based still need thinner.....

This post has been edited by zefflodo: May 30 2008, 01:40 PM

After the tindakbalas wat happened to the paint ? Cannot use liao ? Just curious. =P

I mix with tap water before leh... and it works fine for me lol. Maybe ur water contaminated or sumthing ?

lol strange......hmmm after tindak balas.....the colour become darker.....then u wait for around 10 min the colur will become powder and sink under water......suddenly like doin school experiment pula

use mineral water la...
tap water sometimes more chlorine..

ya it hink your place just undergo some maintenance one.. so the level of chlorine in the water is high...

hi i have a few question lerr about the mr.color

for the lacquer or the acrylics better ler...??

cos lacquer u need tinner to thin it right.

then the acrylics use water to thin it right.

which 1 is better lerr ? can enlighten me on this arr ??

cos current i got the lacquer type ( mohawk cap )

do some reading..
http://www.naritafamily.com/howto/paint.htm

Been looking for paints to start off my repainting projects.

it seems like these paints are not easy to find. XL shop Mid Valley, Toy City HQ and Branches, few other toy shops....basic colors like flat black, and such seems to be hard to find.

Any sifu here know about the best place to go? like a One Stop place to get all the tools i need?

Thanks

toy city mostly sells tamiya acrylic color only... XL shop mid valley sell things damn bloody exp... if u want a great varieties of paint to choose, go to AF HOBBY Shop at Ampang... U can get all the tools + paints there... the boss is familiar with all the paints and tools so if u not sure u can get some recommendation from him...

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Added on May 31, 2008, 10:50 pmguys. a fully painted MG freedom kit can sell how much ah? 100% paint original animation colour, no weathering + 0% sticker usage...

This post has been edited by edwardgsk: May 31 2008, 10:51 PM

ARGH!!!! I'm having problems with putting on decals.

I think the decals I got with my kit is very old because the paintwork got cracks in it and when I soak the decal... the one straight line become cebis cebis dee... it's that normal? Or am I doing it wrongly.

I've read a lot of sites and I follow bulat bulat what they did.
1. Cut out the decal from the sheet.
2. Soak in lukewarm distill water for 10 secs (until paper curl)
3. Place the decal + paper on tissue paper to let the back dry abit and then put on model.
4. While the decal swimming in the water on the back paper, push the decal onto the model.
5. Once in place, use tissue paper to blot the excess water.

My problem is, once I put the decal in the water, straight away hancur. Is it something wrong I'm doing? All the small small decal can use, but the big ones having problems. I'm currently doing an aircraft carrier (1/720) and the longest decal is about 15cm. I've tried cutting them to shorter lengths and then jigsawpuzzle them back together, but did not work.

What else can I do? When I look at the paint on the decal, I can cracks in them. That's not good right?

On the side note, where can I buy just decals alone? I'm looking for a Revell Nimitz CVN-68 model. I don't mind buying them online, but I google and google and still cannot find any site.

r u sure those decals are water slides???
dun mistaken them....
water slides, the paper background is blue...
dry decals are transparent...

hey guyz~ im thinking of building a beach theme artificial landskape

anyone can give me some heads up on how to do it?

eh? but according to the manual, they say [soak and apply decals].

My background is not transparent, it's brownish yellow and the back paper is like cardboard consistency. I don't think it is dry decal.

This is the first time I heard of dry decals. Will google it and see.

edit: Googled it and found out that it is terbalik and you just rub the decal on. Mine is not terbalik (the number 68 is not terbalik, haha). I really think it is just old... (printed on 1988 according to the copyright sign). Anyway to save it?

This post has been edited by Lucifer_Light: Jun 2 2008, 09:08 PM

Did anyone ever come across with Pelikan Plaka paints? I know Parkson Grand did sell these products but in Ipoh branch they didn't sell Plaka matt water-based varnish.

If anyone did counter this product please let me know where can I get the Plaka varnish around KL. Thank you.

This post has been edited by r28: Jun 2 2008, 09:27 PM

wow... i also wan to do one le...

hmm... maybe like u said lo coz it's very old... 1st time i did water slides tat time, no problem at all...
actually no nid soak so long one... mine less than 10 sec then put on the place.. slide it out..

yo guyz...do u use surfacer (mr surfacer) to check for any defect??mean after u mod,cut thisn that,doing seam removing,then use surfacer to check any defect,n if not satisfied,do some correction,n surface again,until satisfied?? or use the surfacer juz b4 painting,for the defects u all can correct it even without using surfacer.....juz asking coz don hav any talent in doing moding or cut this n that,usually after doin that i'll surface it to check for the defect,than repair it, surface again till i'm satisfied...somtime feel that it is not such an efficient way coz use lot of surfacer..huhu

by da way,donno whether this stuff has been discused b4... ,if yes sory for repeating it back....

This post has been edited by darth.lie: Jun 4 2008, 12:49 AM