Besides marker, can try gunze's metalizer paint. comes with a few color like chrome silver, burn iron and such. the paint is very very liquid, so can apint with a brush. then wait till it's dry, use soft cloth to buff or wipe it lightly, voila! u got chrome like effect.

except chrome silver, which is already light in color before you wipe it, other colors u can create very unique effect. Paint on parts with surface with details, like a car rim or a thruster with lines for example. after the paint dry, u lightly wipe it and u ll find areas u wiped become very chrome like while places where ur cloth cant reach still remain dark. U dont even need panel lineing. and the effect is natural!

Only drawback of these type of paint is,

1. it wont last long few months or a year u ll notice it slowly turn darker. much faster than marker paint.

2. cannot and no need top coat. if u did, u ll find suddenly the silver not silver anymore (Pardon my english )

3. The paint is weak, easily scratch. so no playing with your kits.

This is one common method used by people especially for competition, the effect is the next best thing after real metal and where the kit wont display too long,

Try it out, it's very fun.

---

Added on May 27, 2008, 3:23 amfew ways to prevent paint chipping:

number one rule: dont play with your kit. u can slightly adjust your kit to the pose u want to display, and do it carefully, but not like twisting it and trying out different pose. should at least confirm the pose before u paint.

If moving is inevitable, like in magazine the model need to change pose for photography purposes, normally the japanese modellers will do modding. Study carefully on your current kit which part that scratches other parts. For example a hand. easiest part for paint scratch is the joint, at both sides, usually the upper arm connection side. because there r 2 pieces of plastic from the upper arm inner frame clam tightly with the joint. So need to make that particular part in the upper arm frame slightly thinner, so they wont touch the joint at all. then u wont get paint scratch lor

My english is bad, and i m quite sleepy now, hope i make it clear enough

This post has been edited by rayloke: May 27 2008, 03:23 AM

Like wat rayloke said paint will chip off one, even u used the best technology like those car paint, u will also get ur paint scratch or chipped off if it was knock or scratch by something else......

So they is no 100% way to prevent thise stuff frm happening, u either dun play with it or just dun paint it!

If u really want to paint it and still play with it...... then u will need to wash ur kit with detergent (clear of the chemicals and the stain of oil frm ur oily hand), applied the primer layer and let it dried (then same prevent ur oily hand to touch those stuff), applied ur paint, then in the end applied the layer of topcoat.....
If u did it all nicely the paint wouldnt chip off easily but as i mention earlier it will still chip off, areas like the combination of 2 armor or joints will still chip off if u play with it a lot. Just not so easily onli.....

Thanks for all the informations... cause I bought Mr. Hobby Aluminiume Color but it ez to fade out when you touch it..

lol just now what i did is repaint the paint chipping parts and cover it with top coat lor... but as rayloke mentioned, i will try to wider the white outer armor parts that clam on the joint parts to prevent it from scratching each other tomorrow haha... thx yea...

Guys i have a very annoying problem here.... i mixed Mr. Color's Super Black and Flat White at a 1:3 ratio... along with thinner and retarder... i mixed these in a large amount and keep them in a separate bottle.

When i want to use it for hand painting, i notice that when the paint dry, it look like " webs " !! Its like the thing didnt dry properly then leave webs or sumthing like that... no matter how many times i stir or shake the paint still dry into webs when i handpaint... need help ! Thnx !

maybe u should add somemore thinner into it to make it back to the oiriginal state?

Noob question (lol): when you use gundam markers to paint, how easy is it to remove the wet paint if you've made a mistake?

For example, when you use the gundam marker to do panel lining, it is easy to just wipe off the excess with your thumb or a wet cloth.

Can the same be done with the paint markers?

not much experience with it....but most of the paint that i mixed together all will dried up easily even if u use those special container (MR Hobby one) to store them......guess u still have to mix them when u really want them!

can but ur hand will get bloody dirty frm that^^ if cloth then jialat lor cuz paint...

i tot alclad2 metalic or chrome paints quite good?

Question from a newbie,

To do a repaint on a Revoltech Convoy, if possible, what kind of paint should i use?

Since i'm only a beginner, budget and user friendly method would be a better start? Any recommendationg?

Thanks
ps thinking of repainting it to a nemesis

it be a little bit difficult.. but you can always scratch the part where you dont want the paint.. if you wipe maybe on even surface.. but on uneven surface its kinda hard

Yar this is why I'm a little afraid to start painting...cause me noob

Hmm..maybe I try to use some masking tape to cover those areas I dont want to paint and see...

Errr its not that it dries up easily... arrghhh i dunno how to explain how it looks like ... lol... it just looks like " webs " ... and the painted surface isnt smooth... can feel the " webs " when u touch it.... SWT. Sorry but thats the best explanation i can give....

I cant take pic too cuz its too fine to catch on my lousy cam... lol... thnx for the reply anyway. >.<

if thers web appear on ur model after u AB, it means your paint is still too pekat and need to add somemore thinner to it...

---

Added on May 28, 2008, 10:08 pmhow many layers of top coat should i spray on my mg freedom so the paint won't chips off? i use AB one not direct from the can cause the nozzle really sucks... (i spray the top coat into the small cup on the air brush then i spray on my kit like spray paint like that... please note that it's kinda thin...)

besides, can recommend any sites for air compressor maintenance tips?

---

Added on May 28, 2008, 11:02 pmguys, is that possible to mix tamiya acrylic paint with mr hobby thinner or tamiya thinner mix with mr hobby lacquer paint? if cannot may i know what will happen?

This post has been edited by edwardgsk: May 28 2008, 11:02 PM

tissue paper works

im also noobie in gunpla but the panel lining isnt as tough as you may think

Err i handpaint, bro... i dont airbrush.. Still got webs appear... hahaha.

Actually top coat 1 coat enuf d la... you cant make ur kit 100% chip -free.... its bound to chip if u like to play alot... i rarely see ppl double coat. Wont it be too thick ?


Tamiya dont have lacquer, btw... so u cant possibly mix Mr. Color Thinner with Tamiya's ENAMEL or ACRYLIC paints... the only lacquer tamiya has is spray cans....

Tamiya's acrylic just use water to thin it... same goes to mr hobby's acrylic ( flat cap )... You can use mr Hobby color thinner for both brands... since were talking about ACRYLIC paints here.

Mr. Hobby's Lacquer ( mohawk cap ) must thin with Mr. Color Thinner....

Tamiya's Enamel must thin with TAmiya Enamel Thinner, obviously lol...

This post has been edited by noob4life: May 29 2008, 01:18 AM

Ok, i also got 1 Noob question.. What if i painted with the GM10 Black Gundam Marker, then leave it for a period it dried liao, then what should i use to remove the paint ? Can it be done using Gundam Marker Remover?

those revoltech stuffs are basically made fr pvc (check the box, usually they'll indicate the material used for the action figure)
if it's pvc, try get a metal primer (from either gunze or tamiya)
after coating it only u can paint it easily. otherwise the paint hard to stick..

---

Added on May 29, 2008, 7:40 pmbro.. dun do like dat if u intended to have a clean line.
when u use markers, it's mean to be wipe of when dry not wet.
if it's wet, it's hard to prevent smearing and smuldging..
most gundam markers are easily removed by erasers, worse, use alcohols (or methylated spirit) if u only do lining on bare plastic.
for painted surface (assume acrylic), better use enamel wash/inking.

if u painted with acrylic and stil insist on marker lining, get it top-coat with gloss to protect the paint layer.
then only do lining, clean up with alcohol (be gentle), finish of wth matt or satin (to your liking)

hope it helps..

---

Added on May 29, 2008, 7:43 pmadditional.. if u finish off with lacquer then no need top coat prior to marker lining.

all surface has to be smooth preferably gloss if u intend to have a clean line.. rough surface is very hard to clean up..

This post has been edited by erh_teo: May 29 2008, 07:43 PM

ah thanks for this useful tip. now i know whats goin wrong with all the smearing and smudging (if you checked my posted exia/kyrios on the in progress/gallery thread, from the high Q pics that allow clear close ups, the smearing/smudgings are pretty visible )