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Model Kits Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, where the 'deja-vu are tradition in here

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z3r0717
post Jun 4 2008, 02:02 AM

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QUOTE(darth.lie @ Jun 4 2008, 12:45 AM)
yo guyz...do u use surfacer (mr surfacer) to check for any defect??mean after u mod,cut thisn that,doing seam removing,then use surfacer to check any defect,n if not satisfied,do some correction,n surface again,until satisfied?? or use the surfacer juz b4 painting,for the defects u all can correct it even without using surfacer.....juz asking coz don hav any talent in doing moding or cut this n that,usually after doin that i'll surface it to check for the defect,than repair it, surface again till i'm satisfied...somtime feel that it is not such an efficient way coz use lot of surfacer..huhu

by da way,donno whether this stuff has been discused b4... smile.gif ,if yes sory for repeating it back....
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that is the correct way if u plan to mod... if u just repaint then surface 1 time enuff d ma unless still can see seam lines.. smile.gif
WaytoDawn
post Jun 4 2008, 08:29 PM

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Hey guys, not too sure whether is this the right place to ask but can anyone help answer my question here? its regarding the pricing of an airbrush kit and compressor. Solely relying on spray paint cans is seriously burning a hole in my wallet. can you guys help me out here? pls?
rayloke
post Jun 4 2008, 10:29 PM

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QUOTE(darth.lie @ Jun 4 2008, 12:45 AM)
yo guyz...do u use surfacer (mr surfacer) to check for any defect??mean after u mod,cut thisn that,doing seam removing,then use surfacer to check any defect,n if not satisfied,do some correction,n surface again,until satisfied?? or use the surfacer juz b4 painting,for the defects u all can correct it even without using surfacer.....juz asking coz don hav any talent in doing moding or cut this n that,usually after doin that i'll surface it to check for the defect,than repair it, surface again till i'm satisfied...somtime feel that it is not such an efficient way coz use lot of surfacer..huhu

by da way,donno whether this stuff has been discused b4... smile.gif ,if yes sory for repeating it back....
*
basically yes, u can prime the surface to check error, cause any small uneven surface will be revealed once u spray surfacer on top. but no need every round la, try to check defects with bare eyes 1st, only when u r very happy with the result, then use surfacer to double chaeck again, like that u wont waste so much lor..... smile.gif
edwardgsk
post Jun 5 2008, 01:21 AM

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here

fichtenfoo.com

by the ways... its an expensive method and u waste a lot of surfacer just for that...so think wise if u r a budgeted modeler...


ezCISS
post Jun 6 2008, 03:13 AM

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QUOTE(siawgu @ May 25 2008, 01:29 PM)
hi all, may i know what Mr. Hobby color code is use for the gattling gun head.. kinda shinny and nice..
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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FYI, that specific item was AB with Mr.COLOR SUPER METALLIC:SM07 PLATE SILVER
markiemark
post Jun 6 2008, 12:29 PM

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i'm currently building my clear version Freedom gundam and noticed that those nip marks are really annoying esp if its on the clear parts. I even overdid myself on nipping and trimming some of the leftover sprues on the parts cry.gif
Need advice on how to properly clean the nip marks without leaving much ugly scratch marks.
0300078
post Jun 6 2008, 01:23 PM

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QUOTE(edwardgsk @ Jun 5 2008, 01:21 AM)
here

fichtenfoo.com

by the ways... its an expensive method and u waste a lot of surfacer just for that...so think wise if u r a budgeted modeler...
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u can always use those small bottle Surfacer instead of those spraycans tat is if u got AB

QUOTE(ezCISS @ Jun 6 2008, 03:13 AM)
FYI, that specific item was AB with Mr.COLOR SUPER METALLIC:SM07 PLATE SILVER
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but i heard a lot comments about those superchrome color getting dull very fast....they do last long!
MyKy44
post Jun 6 2008, 06:19 PM

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^er, on your last line, they don't last long is it?
0300078
post Jun 6 2008, 07:37 PM

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QUOTE(MyKy44 @ Jun 6 2008, 06:19 PM)
^er, on your last line, they don't last long is it?
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the chrome shinny effect tends to oxide through time....and they aint anyway to prevent it!
zheyuen
post Jun 6 2008, 11:13 PM

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how bout alclad chrome paints? is it good and isit in malaysia?
edwardgsk
post Jun 7 2008, 10:20 AM

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QUOTE(markiemark @ Jun 6 2008, 12:29 PM)
i'm currently building my clear version Freedom gundam and noticed that those nip marks are really annoying esp if its on the clear parts.  I even overdid myself on nipping and trimming some of the leftover sprues on the parts  cry.gif
Need advice on how to properly clean the nip marks without leaving much ugly scratch marks.
*
well since it is a clear version then u cant sand it or else it will spoil the surface... just use hobby knife and trim it till smooth bah... thats the only way dude...
markiemark
post Jun 7 2008, 02:36 PM

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QUOTE(edwardgsk @ Jun 7 2008, 10:20 AM)
well since it is a clear version then u cant sand it or else it will spoil the surface... just use hobby knife and trim it till smooth bah... thats the only way dude...
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first off, thanks edwardgsk.. i thought i could fix tht using a P2000 abrasive but then again, i gues not sweat.gif
edwardgsk
post Jun 8 2008, 03:10 AM

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clear version freedom gundam.. nothing special about freedom's internal skeleton system le... all gray only... maybe u should get a clear version strike freedom... clear version looks god with golden internal skeleton system...
0300078
post Jun 9 2008, 08:34 AM

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Frens! Which type of Tamiya Compound should i get???
The normal one, Fine or Ultra Fine??? Want to polish my transparent SD kit!
rayloke
post Jun 9 2008, 12:36 PM

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QUOTE(300078 @ Jun 9 2008, 08:34 AM)
Frens! Which type of Tamiya Compound should i get???
The normal one, Fine or Ultra Fine??? Want to polish my transparent SD kit!
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A bit hard to answer le, because......

Compound is like sand paper, in liquid form.

So depends on what kinda effect u want lor...... for the really shiny and smooth surface, usually used for car model finishing, go for the finishing compound (Tamiya).
hope that helps.... smile.gif
0300078
post Jun 9 2008, 01:07 PM

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QUOTE(rayloke @ Jun 9 2008, 12:36 PM)
A bit hard to answer le, because......

Compound is like sand paper, in liquid form.

So depends on what kinda effect u want lor...... for the really shiny and smooth surface, usually used for car model finishing, go for the finishing compound  (Tamiya).
hope that helps.... smile.gif
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dunno woh becoz in the HLJ website they onli got Normal Compound, Fine, and Ultra fine.....I am thinking of making my transparent SD gundam look glossy and shinny!
So maybe i go buy the normal compound and fine together since just 600yen for one!
rayloke
post Jun 9 2008, 01:34 PM

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QUOTE(300078 @ Jun 9 2008, 01:07 PM)
dunno woh becoz in the HLJ website they onli got Normal Compound, Fine, and Ultra fine.....I am thinking of making my transparent SD gundam look glossy and shinny!
So maybe i go buy the normal compound and fine together since just 600yen for one!
*
if financially ok, is best to do so. just like sanding, sand with lower grid first then only go for higher.

for tamiya, u can check in tamiya undergraound in 1 utama. saw they use to sell there.
0300078
post Jun 9 2008, 02:53 PM

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QUOTE(rayloke @ Jun 9 2008, 01:34 PM)
if financially ok, is best to do so. just like sanding, sand with lower grid first then only go for higher.

for tamiya, u can check in tamiya undergraound in 1 utama. saw they use to sell there.
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yah becoz i read a magazine see them polish those transparent parts until it shine like a new one so want to test to make my SD have mirror effect!
zero1st
post Jun 9 2008, 02:58 PM

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yup ... like what rayloke saids if financially ok with u get all 3 ..... since the proper way to use it is rub ( normal -> fine -> ultra fine ) but if ur lazy just rub fine is enuf .... also take note that it is better u wet sand 1st ur kit b4 rubbing any compound ....
0300078
post Jun 9 2008, 03:00 PM

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QUOTE(zero1st @ Jun 9 2008, 02:58 PM)
yup ... like what rayloke saids if financially ok with u get all 3 ..... since the proper way to use it is rub ( normal -> fine -> ultra fine ) but if ur lazy just rub fine is enuf .... also take note that it is better u wet sand 1st ur kit b4 rubbing any compound ....
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yah hor...thx for reminding me. Do i need the original cloth to rub on the kit??? Or any cloth can do one becoz they also selling one for 2000yen....which i think is kinda of expensive.

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