I want to ask whether is there any other choice for primer?? Other than those japanese brand.

1/100 MG Exia Ignition Mode

Everything done except painting.

at where the the shop i go kap kap ah ^^

They dun have a physical shop =_= only online store

Another place you can go kap kap is AFHobby at taman putra cheras
http://www.bbs.afhobby.com/forumdisplay.php?fid=3
got map in the website

hey guys,

Can somebody tell me if you are meant to spray topcoat after or before applying the decal ( either dry / water decal type ) ?

I am just doing very simple painting steps which involves

1) Build
2) Panel lining
3) Decal ( normal stickers )
4) Weathering using Pastels
5) Top Coat ( FLAT )

What happen if I apply the decal ( dry/water type ) , weathering and top coat ( Flat ) ? Would it stuff up my decal ?

Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you

i also wan ask this question
& also u can change the position of decals after applying??? i mean if u pasted it wrong, can it be changed or say byebye to the decals?

wonder why there's been so long and nobody wants to answer..... ok i m really in a good mood tonight....

Bro, do read the tutorial. please read.....

If tutorial ever ask u to do a layer of topcoat AFTER applying decal, i m guessing it wont be any problem.

Or, easiest way, u can cut part of the decal out, the unwanted parts, apply on a piece of unwanted plastic, then lightly top coat and see what u will get.

If it's sticker, don't even worry.

As for gaiachronicler, commonly there r 3 types of stickers and decal in gunpla; sticker, water slide decal, and dry transfer decal.

sticker: Dengeki hobby is teaching is almost every issue. do not apply sticker on dry surface. once it sticks, even if u can pull it out again, the sticker is so distorted and is as good as waste. apply a little water on the surface of the kit first, so u have a little flexibility to readjust.

Water slide: this can adjust and readjust. even after it's dry, u can put a little water and it MIGHT still strong enough to be adjusted.

Dry transfer decal: this is the most beautiful, but it's one shot dead or alive thing. no adjustment at all.

Thanks for your reply / advice mate. Just want to clariy one last thing, the water decal is those type that comes with MG with white sheet of paper behind it ?
On the other hand, dry transfer are those type which is like hard cardboard type ? ( Additional Decal which can be bought ) ?

Thanks again !

always sifu rayloke to the rescue
never play with dry decal until your a pro at decals eh?

got myself a PG 00 Raiser and was thinking to do like this

1. cut and sand off those extra sprue (using 600 grit sand paper from h/w shop)

2. apply flat based clear coating (hopefully can help to cover those sprue part)

3. panel lining using gundam marker

4. re-apply flat based clear coating to protect the panel lining.

as you see i'm not going to paint the model and i'm wondering do i need to sand the whole part when sanding the sprue part that time. i haven't started this project yet but still wondering my method is correct or not. any sifu care to comment? Thanks

Normally Bandai MG kits dont come with waterslide decal.

Sticker: as its name, it's a sticker. peel off the top part, where u can find there r adhesive agent at the back of the piece of plastic. just put on a kit surface and it automatically stick. Very thick, even top coat will not cover and make it 100% invisible. usually Bandai kit does provide one piece.

Dry transfer decal: This is with the best outcome among the 3 types. but it's almost one-shot-hit-or-miss kind. u need to cut out the part u want apply, use masking tape to hold it firm against the surface where the decal will be; then use a not-so-sharp, but hard object (eg pencil) to scratch the decal. Then the decal will transfer onto the surface of the kit. any movement or mistake during the process, very likely it will spoil the decal. Usually Bandai MG kit will provide one.

Water slide decal: This is the type u need to soak the decal in water for awhile, then the adhesive in between the decal film n back paper will start melts so the decal will start disconnect from the back paper. then use a cotton bud or whatever as you find comfortable, to push and slide the decal film onto the kit surface. After that, readjust. if the decal film is getting too dry, can add a drop of water, so it's easier to be adjusted again. can use mark setter and softener to further improve the invisibility of the decal. Not provided by Bandai in MG kits. But Bandai's aftermarket decal r all water slide (Clever way to suck money Heheheheh).


Gaiachronicler: Honestly, despite liking the dry decal's effect so much, i seldom do dry transfer decal, can 80% of time i can't make them perfect......

---

Added on March 16, 2010, 11:21 am1. dont just sand with 600 grit. Do it 600, then 100, finish with at least 1200. i recommend that.

2. dont apply flat base first. The uneven surface cause by flat base will only make your decal application n panel lining harder. Since u r not painting the kit, if u miss while panel lining, it's very easy to clean up, except parts where u have had sanded. u can just use a eraser to "rub" them off. If u still worry the part u already sanded with sandpaper where ink might trapped in the tiny gap caused by sanding paper; u can apply a layer of GLOSS coat, instead of flat.

3. as per u say

4. yes, that will be good.

This post has been edited by rayloke: Mar 16 2010, 11:21 AM

[/quote]
1. dont just sand with 600 grit. Do it 600, then 100, finish with at least 1200. i recommend that.

2. dont apply flat base first. The uneven surface cause by flat base will only make your decal application n panel lining harder. Since u r not painting the kit, if u miss while panel lining, it's very easy to clean up, except parts where u have had sanded. u can just use a eraser to "rub" them off. If u still worry the part u already sanded with sandpaper where ink might trapped in the tiny gap caused by sanding paper; u can apply a layer of GLOSS coat, instead of flat.

3. as per u say

4. yes, that will be good.
[/quote]

thanks for the fast response. so i think i will change my method into

1. sand with 600 grit, then 100 grit and finish with at least 1200. (may i ask why 100 grit? sorry to ask as i'm really newbie here)

2. spray a layer of gloss base coat. (any recommended brand?)

2. apply panel lining and decals.

4. finally spray a layer of flat base coat. (any recommended brand?)

Thanks again.

This post has been edited by stanleysum: Mar 16 2010, 12:09 PM

Hahaha solly solly, should be 1000 grit, not 100....

Brand? easiest would be Gunze's Mr hobby series.....

oh ok... Thanks for the tips really appreciate it.

[quote=rayloke,Mar 16 2010, 02:11 PM]
Normally Bandai MG kits dont come with waterslide decal.

Sticker: as its name, it's a sticker. peel off the top part, where u can find there r adhesive agent at the back of the piece of plastic. just put on a kit surface and it automatically stick. Very thick, even top coat will not cover and make it 100% invisible. usually Bandai kit does provide one piece.

Dry transfer decal: This is with the best outcome among the 3 types. but it's almost one-shot-hit-or-miss kind. u need to cut out the part u want apply, use masking tape to hold it firm against the surface where the decal will be; then use a not-so-sharp, but hard object (eg pencil) to scratch the decal. Then the decal will transfer onto the surface of the kit. any movement or mistake during the process, very likely it will spoil the decal. Usually Bandai MG kit will provide one.

Water slide decal: This is the type u need to soak the decal in water for awhile, then the adhesive in between the decal film n back paper will start melts so the decal will start disconnect from the back paper. then use a cotton bud or whatever as you find comfortable, to push and slide the decal film onto the kit surface. After that, readjust. if the decal film is getting too dry, can add a drop of water, so it's easier to be adjusted again. can use mark setter and softener to further improve the invisibility of the decal. Not provided by Bandai in MG kits. But Bandai's aftermarket decal r all water slide (Clever way to suck money Heheheheh).
Gaiachronicler: Honestly, despite liking the dry decal's effect so much, i seldom do dry transfer decal, can 80% of time i can't make them perfect......

[

----------------

Spot on Mate. Exactly what I wanted to know , thanks a lot.

Much appreciated , Cheers

---

Added on March 17, 2010, 10:45 amHey Ray,

Thanks for the info about the decal. I tried the water transfer type yesterday night and it was lovely, although I did stuff up some of it ( accidentaly left some next to the puddle of water ) .....

I have completed the panel lining and decal on the MG ( looks way better than before ). Now I am planning to do some light weathering , tutorial actually stated to COAT it before weathering and finally one last coat.

I was just wondering is that necessary ? Would the reason be due to decals might get damaged during weathering, hence an additional layer after decaling is required?

I live in an apartment, hence coating will be kinda difficult for me. ( I try to perform as little coating as possible ).

Appreciate your help or anybody whom is willing to give me some advise.

Thanks

dante_cool

This post has been edited by dante_cool: Mar 17 2010, 10:45 AM

This is the same reason why top coat apply before panel line. Although u did paint the whole kit, but since u have sanded part of the kits, there's a risk some paint might trapped inside the tiny scratches during the sanding, means u will have a hard time cleaning them off, if it's undesirable.

it really depends, if the scratches due to sanding isn't too deep, and since u didnt paint the kit, which means u do not need to top coat to "protect" the paint, u might wanna skip the step.

However, please do bear in mind, weathering is a process with a lot of washing; and if there r parts where u cannot wash away unwanted paint, that might ruin the weathering.

Thanks mate for the reply. I use pastels for my weathering hence I am abit paranoid it will cause a bit of damage to my decals. I guess I will just apply a thin layer of topcoat on those areas which have decals.

Normally I just decal + panel lining at the same time then just top coat it. I am learning a bit of weathering so wanna make sure I get the process right.

Thanks again.

hi its me again.I just got my hands some Future floor finish and so far looks good when i tried on left over plastics.Wanna ask if i wanna apply Future floor finish on decals(transparent sticker and dry transfer ones) to avoid dust collecting on the edges and spray on a flat coat.Will there any negative effect doing it this way?

hey guys need to ask something to all the sifu here
MasterGrade(MG) need to paints?
i want something that its very detail means a lot of parts but dont 1 to paint or so whatever paint with marker nvm la
not those airbrush painting ah thx everyone
really appreciated it if u pm me thx
and somemore 1 thing what it the diffrence between gouf and not gouf??

This post has been edited by kenpachi: Mar 19 2010, 07:53 PM

Hi, does anyone know where got sell chrome stickers like mirror? ~

And i am having problem using Mr.Color paint. I mix it with leveling thinner and paint on my Transformer as the hobby shop boss recommend me to use it if want to hand brush the kits. After a while the plastic cracks !!!! Thats was my worst CNY ~ Btw, the paint number is MC214 (paint that give metallic effects).....Anyone encoutner this problem? need help TQ