You can use industrial spray cans too but make sure they are suitable for plastic kits.. So far i know that are ok which are Niplon and Anchor...

For beginners, any paint is suitable.. just that which one suits you.. whether is Handpaiting, spray can or Air Brush...
Those shining parts are gloss injection parts, i don't think there's anything to protect but i know how to get rid of them only(purpose for repainting).. haha

I have a few bottles of mr. color lacquer paint with stuck caps. any idea how to open them?

Tried using rubberband and pliers but they won't budge :S

1. U can hit the bottle cover, it might make the dried n hardened paint stuck in between the cap n bottle crack, so can reopen again.
2. Terbalik the bottle, put a little thinner at the edge of the cap. Try open it again. A little messy though.

and make sure to clean up the edges of the bottle nicely after that too, so you wont have to do this all the time

Thanks! will try that. I'll remember to clean the edges too

BTW, is thinning mr. color flat clear coat or clear gloss coat the same with mixing color paint? eg.. till "milk" fluidity? any good ratio to recommend?
i need to gloss some parts for decal application.

guise, need help real quickie here D:, is there any way to fix loose joints? Coz i had lotsa fun posing the MG GN-X until the leg joints eventually became loose, both of them, its the joints from the leg to the waist, probably the picture below could show it, exactly in the red circle D: plus it wont stand firmly on normal surfaces anymore like normal MGs do T^T

Thanks lots !! >_<

This post has been edited by golbeza: Feb 22 2010, 12:18 AM

Yes, do it like mixing normal paint

Anyone know what tools/materials needed to do molds? Any guides on how to do molds?

Also how to properly do thick lines that pops outwards on flat surface? Do we use putty? I find putty hard to shape.

i have a question, how do we do shading on my gundam without using airbrush.? i saw some tutorial bout using paint and brush to brush on it but it's in chinese. anyone can give me a link or teach me a way to do shading without using airbrush?

This post has been edited by mr.edrick123: Feb 24 2010, 02:59 AM

Some 1 know,where can buy or made the part of the MG Strike Freedom head?i Lost the "V"?

How do we utilize these metal etched sheets?

http://www.hlj.com/product/EDU35649

they only come in black do we need to paint them?

First of all, i must assume u understand the idea how/what makes a joint tight n loose.

With that, here is my suggestion: on the male peg, apply a layer of super glue on it; which will make the whole peg thicker in diameter, hence the joint will be slightly tighter. However, bear in mind super glue doesnt hold onto plastic that well, and it will crack too. Thus, u cannot "play" with your kit anymore. Decide a post and display it as it is.

For another insurance, i can find a type of glue that's a little tacky even after it's "dry" or cure. that will add a little flexibility in fine tuning your final pose after your remedy the joint problem.



custom creating rubber mold and casting is definitely not for beginners or casual gunpla collector; it requires quite a proper setup and work station.

However, if u r seriously interested in this, i would suggest u spend more time in modeling injection plastic kits first; once u r experienced enough, u will be able to understand the terminology and method that thousands of tutorial about creating mold in the internet. The question u ask is like asking, "how to make a black forest cake?" which involves lots of steps n materials n tools.

As for lines popping upwards, basically u can cut pla plates or use pla stripes to do. Even pulling a sprue n glue will do the job.

P/S: i know a kind of mold which can be used quite easily, but mostly doing 2D casting only. These r the type used in school; u need to boil water, and heat it up, so it will become soft. Use the original piece to create the mold while it was hot n soft. once it's cool, it will become hard again; which means u can use various material to make a cast. Can find this in daisho; blister pack with 2 half transparent, rubber-like stick.

There r numerous ways of doing gradient. Simplest would be as what u learn in art class about water color during school. Hence hand painting will be able to create gradient effect. Others are pastel, dry brush etc.

All i mentioned are "gradient" / gradually change of color; which some can create it as if it's "shading". Each method has different effects. So to answer your question, best is u provide a photo on what kinda effect u want.



Use pla plate, cut to "V" out. sand, cement, and paint it.

If u stay in KL, can try AF Hobby, HHQ, MH, Time Machine, multifilla.


In general terms, we call this photo etch. It has different thickness and also different material. The common type we see are gold, silver, and black. This is modeling option parts. And when it comes to modeling stuff, EVERYTHING needs to be colored in order to look good. Unless the original color of the material is exactly what u want to be on the model kit.

This post has been edited by rayloke: Mar 1 2010, 02:30 PM

Looks like the male joint is too short to create enough friction for it to be tight. Try applying a 1 or 2 layers of clear paint on it and let it dry thoroughly before you put it back in. Worked for my MG F91 & Crossbone.

Can somebody tell me what is the main purpose for the mild retarded? Any different with the thinner?

Haha not retarded le... retarder. It's a chemical to slow down the drying speed of paint when mixed together.

How do we use Mr.Topcoat properly?

I used flat, shaked well and applied at a distance on object, but after spraying the object looks wet even with quick spray, totally different from applying paint where you can see the "pixels" effect.

After drying up the object looks flat, but on larger areas you can see the coat like "puddle of mud", and gives some white look, this is quite obvious on black object where whole thing does look black enough after applying.

What did i do wrong? Did i not shake enough? Applied too close? Applied too much? or Applied to little?

When i used spray can, i got the same thing too. however, when i shake well, n heated up the can (To increase the pressure in the can), the problem become lesser.

I dont dare saying it's inevitable, but i think what u have is pretty common. Mebbe your standard of requirement is starting to exceed what spray can can offer.

My experience with spray can top coat is: for gloss, it can never give me the high shine i want, for flat, it also cannot deliver the GFF kinda matt effect.

But heating up the can does help. increasing the pressure somehow helps in getting a finer mist from the can.

Q since talking about top coat,will it effect transparent decals sticking on it?And i m having trouble finding future floor wax in malacca,anyone knows where to find it?

IMO "Future" floor wax can only be found at ACE Hardware! ... do melacca have ACE hardware???...

nope checked their site http://www.acehardware.com.my/location.html