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Model Kits Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, where the 'deja-vu are tradition in here

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rayloke
post Mar 6 2010, 05:00 PM

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QUOTE(bboy_im @ Mar 6 2010, 03:55 PM)
just finish modded this figure
user posted image

btw i wan to paint it like this pic..anyone can suggest the right color for me..gold and silver color like this pic.
user posted image
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Even the modeler who did the sample pic gives u the color he use, u wont achieve what he did. Cause that involves quite some coloring techniques, and even the color itself might have some custom mixing n tuning.

Though modeling is not considered as art but craftsmanship, it does involve the artistic side of a person. My suggestion is: use your eyes. build, test, look at result, build next kit, test, improve, look at result......etc. Slowly u will have the experience n know how to create what u want.

Unless u r color blind: dont get me wrong, i m not being sacarstic. Some modelers r color blind, hence they sometimes need others confirmation for certain color.


Just a small tip here. Basically i think what u r looking here is not merely the color, but mostly about effects n finishing. Cause basically silver, stainless steel, iron and such are all grey, different tone of grey. What makes them different from grey is the shiny effect this metallic color offers.

from the photo, i can suggest u try out silver, titanium, dark iron, gun metal, light gold. Different brand has different tone for names like this. U need to look at the real color of the brand of paint u have.

And what make this kit in the sample pic stand out is the shading effect the modeler did. Hence u definitely need an ab set to create something like that.

Happy experimenting!


Added on March 6, 2010, 5:09 pm
QUOTE(unpronunceable @ Mar 5 2010, 01:38 PM)
Q since talking about top coat,will it effect transparent decals sticking on it?And i m having trouble finding future floor wax in malacca,anyone knows where to find it?
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Scale modelers use future floor wax as top coating agent was mainly because it offers quite a good effect with a relatively cheap price.

Bare in mind these few facts:
1. modelers use future to gloss coat because price is cheaper, especially car modeler who did lots of high shine model kits. otherwise, if usage is not that high, i would suggest u go check out hobby gloss coat. At least the product is specially manufactured for hobby.

2. Future was used also mainly for it's chemical formula. It's waterbased, and it's quite passive in reaction with most chemical used in modeling; hence in a way, "safe". However, since last year, future's formula has changed. Now, not many testimony or report about the new formula. We would just hope it's as stable as it used to be.

3. in my opinion, by experience of some of my modeler friends, future does offer a very nice high shine effect when applied. However, the effect tends to have a short life. Some said, within one year after the application, future tends to become yellowish, and also lost part of it's shine; which is quite fast if compare to model-made coating products.

Yes, best bet of finding Future would be Ace Hardware. Selling price around RM55~60 for 798ml

This post has been edited by rayloke: Mar 6 2010, 05:09 PM
bboy_im
post Mar 6 2010, 08:35 PM

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QUOTE(rayloke @ Mar 6 2010, 05:00 PM)
Even the modeler who did the sample pic gives u the color he use, u wont achieve what he did. Cause that involves quite some coloring techniques, and even the color itself might have some custom mixing n tuning.

Though modeling is not considered as art but craftsmanship, it does involve the artistic side of a person. My suggestion is: use your eyes. build, test, look at result, build next kit, test, improve, look at result......etc. Slowly u will have the experience n know how to create what u want.

Unless u r color blind: dont get me wrong, i m not being sacarstic. Some modelers r color blind, hence they sometimes need others confirmation for certain color.
Just a small tip here. Basically i think what u r looking here is not merely the color, but mostly about effects n finishing. Cause basically silver, stainless steel, iron and such are all grey, different tone of grey. What makes them different from grey is the shiny effect this metallic color offers.

from the photo, i can suggest u try out silver, titanium, dark iron, gun metal, light gold. Different brand has different tone for names like this. U need to look at the real color of the brand of paint u have.

And what make this kit in the sample pic stand out is the shading effect the modeler did. Hence u definitely need an ab set to create something like that.

Happy experimenting!


Added on March 6, 2010, 5:09 pm

Scale modelers use future floor wax as top coating agent was mainly because it offers quite a good effect with a relatively cheap price.

Bare in mind these few facts:
1. modelers use future to gloss coat because price is cheaper, especially car modeler who did lots of high shine model kits. otherwise, if usage is not that high, i would suggest u go check out hobby gloss coat.  At least the product is specially manufactured for hobby.

2. Future was used also mainly for it's chemical formula. It's waterbased, and it's quite passive in reaction with most chemical used in modeling; hence in a way, "safe". However, since last year, future's formula has changed. Now, not many testimony or report about the new formula. We would just hope it's as stable as it used to be.

3. in my opinion, by experience of some of my modeler friends, future does offer a very nice high shine effect when applied. However, the effect tends to have a short life. Some said, within one year after the application, future tends to become yellowish, and also lost part of it's shine; which is quite fast if compare to model-made coating products.

Yes, best bet of finding Future would be Ace Hardware. Selling price around RM55~60 for 798ml
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thanks..will try it out notworthy.gif

im still got lot of thing to learn from all sifu here lol.. smile.gif

SUSadvocado
post Mar 6 2010, 08:36 PM

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Still having problem with Frosting using Mr.Topcoat Flat.

I have warmed up with hot water, don't think is a good idea to Heat the whole can of flammable liquid.

I think the reason with Frost is the Topcoat too thick and gathered together forming spots or puddles. But I have already done really quick sprays, still frosts.

Will Lacquer based coat be better?
fyire
post Mar 6 2010, 09:58 PM

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QUOTE(advocado @ Mar 6 2010, 08:36 PM)
Still having problem with Frosting using Mr.Topcoat Flat.

I have warmed up with hot water, don't think is a good idea to Heat the whole can of flammable liquid.

I think the reason with Frost is the Topcoat too thick and gathered together forming spots or puddles. But I have already done really quick sprays, still frosts.

Will Lacquer based coat be better?
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How's the weather like when you're spraying? Any signs of rain or dark clouds or anything like that that may indicate a high level of humidity in the air?
SUSadvocado
post Mar 7 2010, 08:28 AM

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It was at night. I don't know gotta do with weather since what i notice is they frost apon contacting with the surface. i don't know what the whitish stuff are, are they the coat or the solvent?

I did spray topcoat outdoor in hot afternoon few years back and same thing, thus i avoided topcoat and straightaway mix flat coat with color.

Now i try to do topcoat again still having same problem. Got anything to do with water based paint?

How about lacquer based coat sold in hardware shop? I think this is more about the Mr.Topcoat problem?

I have a bottle of flat but i don't know how to mix properly to use on airgun, and whether it will cause same problem frosting.
fyire
post Mar 7 2010, 09:07 AM

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QUOTE(advocado @ Mar 7 2010, 08:28 AM)
It was at night. I don't know gotta do with weather since what i notice is they frost apon contacting with the surface. i don't know what the whitish stuff are, are they the coat or the solvent?

I did spray topcoat outdoor in hot afternoon few years back and same thing, thus i avoided topcoat and straightaway mix flat coat with color.

Now i try to do topcoat again still having same problem. Got anything to do with water based paint?

How about lacquer based coat sold in hardware shop? I think this is more about the Mr.Topcoat problem?

I have a bottle of flat but i don't know how to mix properly to use on airgun, and whether it will cause same problem frosting.
*
that's weird. what I had experienced before is that if the humidity level in the air is rather high, then I get frosting. I use the moisture trap of my airbrush as an indicator for this. I switch on my compressor for 5 minutes and see how much water is accumulated in the moisture trap to see if I should spray flat or not.

the white stuff is supposed to be from the flat topcoat not drying smoothly, resulting in the surface being uneven, hence appearing to be white rather than transparent. if you've sprayed already on your finished model, you can still recover it by spraying on a layer of clear/gloss topcoat. This will even out the surface and remove the white frost.

the other thing that you can try doing is, to mix 1:1 or 2:3 flat:clear topcoat to spray with your airbrush. this sort of helps to reduce the frosting too.
SUSadvocado
post Mar 7 2010, 11:07 AM

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Can tell me how to mix coats? How much thinner should i apply? I'm using can at the moment. I notice with gloss paint & flat paint looks different after using the same coat. Gloss paint with flat coat will make it semi gloss instead of flat.

Anyone tried lacquer type flat coat?
zieraq
post Mar 7 2010, 12:10 PM

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anyone here can help me? icon_question.gif my airbrush got air backflow problem. how to solve? is it because the O-ring is damaged?
fyire
post Mar 7 2010, 04:42 PM

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QUOTE(advocado @ Mar 7 2010, 11:07 AM)
Can tell me how to mix coats? How much thinner should i apply? I'm using can at the moment. I notice with gloss paint & flat paint looks different after using the same coat. Gloss paint with flat coat will make it semi gloss instead of flat.

Anyone tried lacquer type flat coat?
*
There's no exact method to this. I tend to start with 1:1 coat:thinner, then adjust accordingly when test spraying. I use only lacquer.
zieraq
post Mar 7 2010, 06:03 PM

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My problem is same like this 1. hope anybody can respond.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z92PDhPGHPQ&feature=related


Added on March 7, 2010, 11:49 pmI guess nobody have solution for my problem eh....
I've done some search myself & I think it is caused by screw grip on the nozzle got air leakage. so far the solution I found is using beeswax. so I hope anyone can give suggestion where to find this thing.

This post has been edited by zieraq: Mar 7 2010, 11:49 PM
Xzens1110
post Mar 8 2010, 07:27 AM

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i wanted to ask ....i dont have airbrush ..but can i use enenmal chrome colour using brush for my gundam o.O? ....i found chrome colour at TM ..but the uncle told me ....use airbrush only for that kind a enemal o.O..
zieraq
post Mar 8 2010, 10:25 AM

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QUOTE(Xzens1110 @ Mar 8 2010, 07:27 AM)
i wanted to ask ....i dont have airbrush ..but can i use enenmal chrome colour using brush for my gundam o.O? ....i found chrome colour at TM ..but the uncle told me ....use airbrush only for that kind a enemal o.O..
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True, metallic base color is no good if use handbrush.
rayloke
post Mar 8 2010, 12:20 PM

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QUOTE(bboy_im @ Mar 6 2010, 08:35 PM)
thanks..will try it out  notworthy.gif

im still got lot of thing to learn from all sifu here lol.. smile.gif
*
Metallic and pearl painting is currently a new and in thing in sci fi modeling. Everyone is experimenting and improving methodology. In other words, now is the era of metallic finishing evolution in gunpla modeling.

Do share with us your findings n result once u have done. Many modelers would be glad to share your experience thumbup.gif
fyire
post Mar 8 2010, 07:58 PM

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QUOTE(zieraq @ Mar 7 2010, 06:03 PM)
My problem is same like this 1. hope anybody can respond.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z92PDhPGHPQ&feature=related


Added on March 7, 2010, 11:49 pmI guess nobody have solution for my problem eh....
I've done some search myself & I think it is caused by screw grip on the nozzle got air leakage. so far the solution I found is using beeswax. so I hope anyone can give suggestion where to find this thing.
*
I'm not too sure what the problem may be caused by, but the only times when I get such a problem is when the nozzle is clogged or if the paint is too thick. Not sure if this corresponds to your problem or not.

For for air leakages like that, you can use teflon tape which you can find at any hardware store. its the same stuff that plumbers use to wrap around screw areas whenever they have such joints to do. just wrap the tape a few times around the screw areas before screwing the nozzle back in. kinda easier to remove too later compared to beeswax.

have you tried to clean out the nozzle area of your AB?
zieraq
post Mar 8 2010, 09:14 PM

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QUOTE(fyire @ Mar 8 2010, 07:58 PM)
I'm not too sure what the problem may be caused by, but the only times when I get such a problem is when the nozzle is clogged or if the paint is too thick. Not sure if this corresponds to your problem or not.

For for air leakages like that, you can use teflon tape which you can find at any hardware store. its the same stuff that plumbers use to wrap around screw areas whenever they have such joints to do. just wrap the tape a few times around the screw areas before screwing the nozzle back in. kinda easier to remove too later compared to beeswax.

have you tried to clean out the nozzle area of your AB?
*
nozzle already cleaned & all area near nozzle especially between the cup & nozzle I use interdental brush(for people use braces on their teeth). not working. I will try the teflon tape later. but I heard 1 site said using teflon tape is not recommended coz it react with thinner & in addition to that it would distort & stretch the wrapped area. Later the thread(screw grip) will loose. I'll just try it anyway to confirm the problem. After that will discard the teflon & search for beeswax.


Added on March 8, 2010, 9:42 pmtried it just now. confirm the air leakage at nozzle is the problem. now where do I get beeswax....

This post has been edited by zieraq: Mar 8 2010, 09:42 PM
Xzens1110
post Mar 8 2010, 10:43 PM

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QUOTE(zieraq @ Mar 8 2010, 11:25 AM)
True, metallic base color is no good if use handbrush.
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than how ? ...i wanted to use chrome colour to my unicorn !!!! help !!!













# i wanted to buy this thing ..at the picture below ..at the unicorn backpack !!!! i already high light it !!!! where i can buy it !!!! help !!help !!!! its look damn coool man !!!!!...damn delicious !!!Attached Image

This post has been edited by Xzens1110: Mar 8 2010, 11:23 PM


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fyire
post Mar 9 2010, 12:19 AM

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QUOTE(zieraq @ Mar 8 2010, 09:14 PM)
nozzle already cleaned & all area near nozzle especially between the cup & nozzle I use interdental brush(for people use braces on their teeth). not working. I will try the teflon tape later. but I heard 1 site said using teflon tape is not recommended coz it react with thinner & in addition to that it would distort & stretch the wrapped area. Later the thread(screw grip) will loose. I'll just try it anyway to confirm the problem. After that will discard the teflon & search for beeswax.


Added on March 8, 2010, 9:42 pmtried it just now. confirm the air leakage at nozzle is the problem. now where do I get beeswax....
*
You can try here: http://www.multifilla.com/

they're located in Balakong

Teflon tape isn't that bad though. I use it for one of my AB that has the same air leaking problem near the nozzle:
- I change the teflon tape regularly. In fact, after every spraying session when I clean the nozzle. So the thinner won't have the chance to react with the tape as yet.
- Both the screw area and the nozzle are metal. Stainless steel of that type don't stretch easily, especially when its just something soft like teflon tape.
Parody
post Mar 9 2010, 02:58 PM

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QUOTE(Xzens1110 @ Mar 8 2010, 10:43 PM)
than how ? ...i wanted to use chrome colour to my unicorn !!!! help !!!
*

You will see strokes if you use hand brush as the shiny powder will not be evenly distributed. Best way is to get a spray can, probably something like Testor's, but i'm not so sure if it'll stick to plastic although it can be used for automobiles.



QUOTE(Xzens1110 @ Mar 8 2010, 10:43 PM)
i wanted to buy this thing ..at the picture below ..at the unicorn backpack !!!! i already high light it !!!! where i can buy it !!!! help !!help !!!! its look damn coool man !!!!!...damn delicious !!!Attached Image
*

Those are G-Temple thrusters and as to where you can get them, read the post reply below... rclxms.gif


QUOTE(halo13 @ Oct 1 2009, 10:53 PM)
hi guys,

can anyone know that where can i found those metal part like G temple or Other brand of metal stuff like metal truster etc AT KL area ?
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QUOTE(rayloke @ Oct 2 2009, 05:03 PM)
I think AfHobby might carry some.

Or u can look for oldman (ZeroG forum or Hobbiesscorner.com) or Tkting (Mgs2u.com).

I think Tkting does bring in china made thruster that looks exactly like the japanese ones but a much lower price.
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Xzens1110
post Mar 9 2010, 09:11 PM

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oldman (ZeroG forum or Hobbiesscorner.com) or Tkting (Mgs2u.com). and AfHobby where is it ? at KL area or ? Time Machine can get it ma o.O ?
inquisytor
post Mar 9 2010, 09:34 PM

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QUOTE(Xzens1110 @ Mar 9 2010, 09:11 PM)
oldman (ZeroG forum or Hobbiesscorner.com) or Tkting (Mgs2u.com).  and  AfHobby where is it ? at KL area or ? Time Machine can get it ma o.O ?
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oldman and Tkting is both KL ppl. The webpage is there. You can always go see what they have for sale. If you are not located in KL then you can always go for postage. (Since you are asking about time machine i would assume you are oso kl ppl). Go see thier website first ... thier contact is there, that's why ppl provide you the link sweat.gif Again I would like to say what has been always said in this thread ... "Do your research first before asking" whistling.gif is this case, the contact is just right in front of your eyes doh.gif

And no, i haven seen TM bring in any detailing parts. But that said, I haven actually been there for awhile. Dun take my word for it.

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