hey guys,

Just wondering if anybody would be able to assist or give me some advice.
I am trying to learn to do some shading on my gundams without the use of air brushing.

I did some research on the internet and I found this item called " Gundam Real Touch Marker ". It seems like you apply topcoat -> Real Touch Marker -> Shading Pen ? .

I wonder hows the result like ? It does look nice as how it is shown on the Internet.

Anybody has used these items before ?

Any advise would be greatl appreciated.

Cheers

hello guys,

Thanks for all who answered my queries earlier.

Got something I am curious about. I plan to do some weathering/shading but without painting my gundam.
I am quite confuse with the procedures regarding about topcoat.

Can someone please clarify which method is correct ( as below ) :-

1) Gloss Coat -> Panel lining -> decal -> Flat Coat

or

2) Panel Lining -> decal -> Flat Coat / Gloss Coat.

Can someone please clarify for me which procedure is correct ? I did a lot of research on the internet and seems like alot of people uses method 1 . However there are people that uses method 2 as well.

I heard the drawbacks are panel lining will bleed and etc if uses the wrong procedure.

Lastly, do people normally spray the topcoat during the building process or when the mech is completed ?

Any advise / comment is highly appreciated.

Cheers

hi there,

Thanks for your advise. Yeah I am planning to use panel line marker.

I also plan to do some weathering / shading as well using pastel and real touch marker. I would assume shading and weathering is more likely to be done when the gundam is completed.

Hence the following :-

1) Panel line, decal during building process
2) When completed, perform a bit of shading / weathering on the outer armor.
3) Spray Topcoat to seal it up.

Would that be right? Or it is better to spray gloss before doing some shading / weathering and the only perform panel lining ?

Cheers

hey guys,

Can somebody tell me if you are meant to spray topcoat after or before applying the decal ( either dry / water decal type ) ?

I am just doing very simple painting steps which involves

1) Build
2) Panel lining
3) Decal ( normal stickers )
4) Weathering using Pastels
5) Top Coat ( FLAT )

What happen if I apply the decal ( dry/water type ) , weathering and top coat ( Flat ) ? Would it stuff up my decal ?

Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you

Thanks for your reply / advice mate. Just want to clariy one last thing, the water decal is those type that comes with MG with white sheet of paper behind it ?
On the other hand, dry transfer are those type which is like hard cardboard type ? ( Additional Decal which can be bought ) ?

Thanks again !

[quote=rayloke,Mar 16 2010, 02:11 PM]
Normally Bandai MG kits dont come with waterslide decal.

Sticker: as its name, it's a sticker. peel off the top part, where u can find there r adhesive agent at the back of the piece of plastic. just put on a kit surface and it automatically stick. Very thick, even top coat will not cover and make it 100% invisible. usually Bandai kit does provide one piece.

Dry transfer decal: This is with the best outcome among the 3 types. but it's almost one-shot-hit-or-miss kind. u need to cut out the part u want apply, use masking tape to hold it firm against the surface where the decal will be; then use a not-so-sharp, but hard object (eg pencil) to scratch the decal. Then the decal will transfer onto the surface of the kit. any movement or mistake during the process, very likely it will spoil the decal. Usually Bandai MG kit will provide one.

Water slide decal: This is the type u need to soak the decal in water for awhile, then the adhesive in between the decal film n back paper will start melts so the decal will start disconnect from the back paper. then use a cotton bud or whatever as you find comfortable, to push and slide the decal film onto the kit surface. After that, readjust. if the decal film is getting too dry, can add a drop of water, so it's easier to be adjusted again. can use mark setter and softener to further improve the invisibility of the decal. Not provided by Bandai in MG kits. But Bandai's aftermarket decal r all water slide (Clever way to suck money Heheheheh).
Gaiachronicler: Honestly, despite liking the dry decal's effect so much, i seldom do dry transfer decal, can 80% of time i can't make them perfect......

[

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Spot on Mate. Exactly what I wanted to know , thanks a lot.

Much appreciated , Cheers

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Added on March 17, 2010, 10:45 amHey Ray,

Thanks for the info about the decal. I tried the water transfer type yesterday night and it was lovely, although I did stuff up some of it ( accidentaly left some next to the puddle of water ) .....

I have completed the panel lining and decal on the MG ( looks way better than before ). Now I am planning to do some light weathering , tutorial actually stated to COAT it before weathering and finally one last coat.

I was just wondering is that necessary ? Would the reason be due to decals might get damaged during weathering, hence an additional layer after decaling is required?

I live in an apartment, hence coating will be kinda difficult for me. ( I try to perform as little coating as possible ).

Appreciate your help or anybody whom is willing to give me some advise.

Thanks

dante_cool

This post has been edited by dante_cool: Mar 17 2010, 10:45 AM

Thanks mate for the reply. I use pastels for my weathering hence I am abit paranoid it will cause a bit of damage to my decals. I guess I will just apply a thin layer of topcoat on those areas which have decals.

Normally I just decal + panel lining at the same time then just top coat it. I am learning a bit of weathering so wanna make sure I get the process right.

Thanks again.