If you know chinese, you can check out the below link
http://www.bbs.afhobby.com/viewthread.php?...&extra=page%3D1

It's quite a comprehensive report of gold paints available in the market. Some of the gold paint cant get in malaysia, nearest place to order it would prolly be singapore. But nonetheless, you can try asking anyshop that sells paint to help you get it.

Hi there,

I'm no pro myself. But using a perspec cutter might actually accidentally cut through your plastic. To scribe lines you can always use a needle or pin. Unless you willing to invest, you can get your self a scribber from tamiya or hasegawa or some other brands.

I never recommend anybody to use industrial can spray on plastic. Some might actually eats into ur plastic. Brake oil is also corosive to plastic. It also soften the plastic, if you are not careful with it, you might end up breaking the parts easily.

My 2 cents

You can use cutter ... but i would rather suggest you to use the back of a normal blade or pin / needle. Safer

As for paint, I would still suggest to use hobby spray paint. Anyway goes wrong juz use some thinner to remove it.

I'll share with you my painting experience.

I only use gundam markers for small area. Even that also, I do not apply the marker color directly from the marker. I usually let out some marker paints on to a palette and then add abit of retarder to slow down the drying and paint with a 000 brush. Markers are generally good for small touch ups or painting smaller parts, i.e. SD, HG. But for MG, you will be killing yurself trying to paint the whole thing with marker alone. This should answer why marker exist, other than making money for bandai

Best way to start out painting a kit is still laquer paint (Mr. Hobby / Gaia Notes your preference) It doesnt cos alot. You just need the paint, hobby thinner / leveling thinner, retarded (optional) and some different sized brushes.

Weathering ... You can google up "dry brush technique" for weathering. Alot of sites teach you how to weather you kits wit paints only.
http://www.gamerabaenre.com/toolsandtechs.htm
this is a nice site to go to for some basic techniques on weathering. I also use tamiya weather master. It's like woman make-up kit. Just use the brush provided and apply sparingly on to the kit, after paint and topcoat that is.
Dry Brush Example

Tamiya Weathering Example


Topcoat, this is almost a must. Just by applying topcoat + panel lines, you kit looks totally different. You can use Mr. Hobby Topcoat. It comes in 3 different variant, Gloss, Semi-Gloss and Flat. Gloss = shinny, Flat = matte rough, Semi = in between. If you have an airbrush, you can opt to use future floor wax, which is what I'm doing. It's does the same thing but at a much cheaper price. To create flat effect, just add some acrylic flat base. (Flat base is a substance where you add into paints to make it matte and rough)

Hope this helps you out abit. Cheers

This post has been edited by inquisytor: Jun 7 2009, 12:01 AM

usually I thin my paints in 1:3 ratio (or 1:4 ratio sometimes) for airbrushing.

For hand painting i usually do 1:2 ratio and a little bit a retarder.

It works for me. But this is for laquer paints. I still having problem finding the right ratio to thin acrylic paint. But I dun really care cos i dun use acrylic much

To use metallic paint, you need to first base coat with a layer of Gloss Black. The more glossy the better. Wait for dry, then apply the metalic paint ontop.

The metallic paint itself is a solid paint. You can use it direct but it wont shine so nice if you din base coat it with gloss black.

It's gloss black, not silver ya.

Hey there,

You got the basic idea right. Now is juz a matter of getting some practice.

Different ppl have different preference of weathering. Personally i like dry brushing and tamiya weathering master. Both is easy to apply. Up to you. Try a few methods first and see which one you prefer. You might even come out with ur own method.

Happy gunpla-ing. :cheer:

No prob CrimsonG. Share is care

Btw guys, read the progress page under that site. It has alot of "hidden" tutorials inside such as painting marble effect, wood grain effect. Very helpful.

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Added on June 13, 2009, 11:29 amHere's another step by step guild. Alot of reading needed =D

http://codyscoop.com/ht-building.html

This post has been edited by inquisytor: Jun 13 2009, 11:29 AM

Chrome is a totally different color by it self. There's a few chrome paint out in the market for you to get, Mr. Hobby - Chrome silver / Alminume / Aluminium / Super Metalic Stailess Steel, Alcad II, Gaia Note. There's even a chrome marker.

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Added on June 13, 2009, 4:42 pmYou can order it from tkting (lowyat forumer- he got a thread in garage sale call Modelling Goods Supply).

You can also get the tamiya pinvise at toycity or some hobby shop. AFHobby got bring in. But those will cost you an arm and prolly 2 legs.

Or you can do like me, go hardware shop hunting. I found mine in some hardware shop near my house. Quite expensive oso, apparently from japan.

This post has been edited by inquisytor: Jun 13 2009, 04:42 PM

Yeah. I got mine from a hardware shop. But that's after visiting about 10 hardware shop. As an option, you can get a electric drill from pasar road. Pro's kit tool selling at about RM100. Consider cheap. But it wont be precise due to the vibration from the drill. Your choice.

Shud be okay. China brand. But I heard it's good enuff.

BTS, Time machine. They got quite a selection.

I think the matte medium you shown here is actually Flat Base Addictive. As what erh_teo had said, it's a form of addictive to paints to make the paint matte. It will give you a rough surface instead of the stadard glossy smooth surface. Flat base is available with Mr. Hobby and Tamiya. Not sure about other brands. If you plan to use flat base, be sure to get the right type, i.e oil base and water base.

I'm not so sure about paint cracking, because non of my painted gundam actually have crack paints, even after I pose them diffrently a few times. And I would imagine if you are painting standard figurine, It shud have less of this cracking problem since you don't bend or twist them alot. I use Mr. Hobby lacquer paints. As far as I know, lacquer paints are quite strong and don't crack easily. They are already hard to scrap off to start off with. That's my experience.

Gaia Notes. It's good S***. The paint is actually ... erm ... how to say ... easier to apply than Mr. Hobby. Don't really know how to explain, It's just better than Mr. Hobby. The problem is it'[s hard to get over here at Malaysia, if you can get it, it's expensive, and the variant is not as many as Mr. Hobby. So I just stick to Mr. Hobby. And Mr. Hobby has a new range of paint, GX paint if I'm not mistaken. It comes in bigger bottle and the paint is in a way stronger (improve fomula). I heard it's as good as gaia notes. Haven try it yet.


Dunno about Bulldog-something. If you need sumthing to help makes you paint sticks better to plastic, you can always go for a layer of surfacer. Works for all sort of figure painting.


We share quite the same climate as you here at Malaysia, but yet I don't share the same paint job liquiying problem. But as a preventive measure, you can always apply a few layers of topcoat on you figures to seal the paint in. That's what I do if I want to display a figure out of the box.


All the above comments are base on my experience only, different people such as yourself, might have different oppinion.

Hope this helps.

It could be due to you spraying too far from your model or on a really hot day. Thus resulting the top coat to dry before touching ur model.

Flat base is not a color. It's just an addictive to make the paints turn matt/rough.

You can always go for the bandai starter kit also. Includes Cutter, tweezer, filer, part separator and screwdriver. The filer is good stuff, not too rough not too fine. Been using it til now. One set cost about RM45~50 depends where you get it.
Paint brush by far I find fable castel brand quite good. Cheap and ber-quality.
As for markers, you can get a set of basic color, usually come in series, i.e. Seed series = blue, red, yellow, black, white (sumthing like dat. One set cost around RM60 for 6 markers. I really dun recommend marker for painting. Only use markers for touch ups.

Spray a layer of topcoat to seal in the lining.

Panel lining shud come last. After painting.

If Vince sees this ... i think he gonna blow his mind

These question has been ask over and over again. There's like tons and millions of step by step tutorials out there on the net for you to see first before asking question. THere's even videos on youtube showing you how to build your gundam step by step, from removing part from sprues all the way to painting / airbrushing and finishing.

Sumtimes it's not that people dun want to teach, but you should atleast do some reseach before asking basic question.

Question 1 : You can find the answer by doing a little research.

Question 2 : You can "squeeze" some of the paint out of the marker on to a flat palette. Do this by pressing the head a few times on to the palette, it will release the paint slowly. then use a 00 / 000 brush to paint. Well, technically, you will be painting with brush and not the marker There's also a type of gundam marker with finer tip, but it's available in limited colors. And i think the paint type is different also.

Question 3 : http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/392450

Well basically, modelling is like painting. There's no right or wrong way of doing it. In the end it's all aboutthe out come. You can try doing as per the tutorials you found first. Then find the way that best suits you. You may even develop a method of your own. Alot of people out there that post all these tutorial discover all the different method of modelling through trial and error. And once they found something useful they post it up to share. Every method you see has it's own advantage. But none is right niether is wrong.

If I were to tell you then i say Assemble>>Study>>disassemble>>paint>>reassemble. That's how I do it atleast. And I find it to my liking You have to try to experience to know what's best for you. Go wild You will learn as you go along, sometimes even the hard way (like my metallic coated Nu-Gundam, after i use future floor wax as top coat only i realise that future floor wax dissolves the metallic coating )


Spray can -
BTS, Time machine
Endah Parade , Glory Enterprise (Aunt Lenny)
Fraser Business park, Hobby HQ
Taman Putra, AF Hobby
XL-Shop

All the above shops carry spray can. Outside KL I'm not sure (I'm from KL ). Hobby HQ cheap but not alot, for variety go TIme Machine. Enjoy spending $$$$

Prime before painting.
Use tamiya masking tape.
Let the paint dry properly.
Be gentle.

Generally paint dun come off so often with masking tape if you let the paint cure properly first. Else there wont be so many ppl using the masking tape method to paint