Future is waterbase. if your flat coat is lacquer, then it might have some problem.

The question is like: car needs to be driven?

I think u better get yourself GFF: Gundam Fix Figuration. All u need is open the box, n u get a highly detailed, nicely painted kit.

Gouf, is one of the mecha by principality of Zeon, in the Gundam 0079 animation. Not Gouf.... dunno what does it mean.


Hasegawa does provide something like that. is a metal foil with adhesive agent at the back. not that hard to apply, but hard to master.

I think the best effect would be bare metal foil. A much thinner version of metal foil; and WITHOUT adhesive agent at the back. Application of bare metal foil is advance modeling stuff. Darn tough to master (When i use the word "master" means u need to do quite a number of kits, probably fail a few times, keep on practise, and finally u may able to achieve something nice).

I think hand painting would still be the best choice for ya.

As for MR color and leveling thinner, it shouldn't have much reaction with PE, plastic commonly used for kits. Might be some other reason.

This post has been edited by rayloke: Mar 19 2010, 09:49 PM

bro thanks for the explaination. Hmm i think Mr Color paint not suitable for Transformers. I tested on another TF gun ...sigh wasted money...coz one Transformers, chest and legs already broken due to the paint.

I dont know much about TF, but i think there r few grades of them right? Mebbe certain grade they r using some recycle cheapo plastic? Mebbe the bonding of the plastic itself is already very weak? Even though i think hobby thinner cracking plastic is very rare case.

Anyway, this is an example of a fully repaint TF; u can go ebasenet.com to check it out. Only thing is, remember: whenever u have done a repaint, to maintain its gorgeous appearance, basically u cannot "play" with the kit anymore. It's meant for display only. That's probably the reason why most of the parts of TF toy do not contain much paint.

Here it is, from ebasenet, a TF looks more like a metal TF:

Yeah bro, maybe the plastic problem. Haha, i did notice that the figure cannot be touch anymore after painted. Color will fade after few touches. But, how come some toys paint has so good cohesion / long lasting especially those paint on toys.

dude i need some help !!!! ...i bought a mr.hobby white colour ....when i wan paint my gundam , so i campur the mr.hobby colour n mr.colour thinner 50 ...when i mix it sure is colour more than the thinner right ...but why so watery o.O? ..im not using air brush !!! i using normall brush ....or do i need to colour it more than 1 layer or ?



btw what is prime (mr.surfacer) ? <<<< base colour o.O?

This post has been edited by Xzens1110: Mar 21 2010, 05:04 PM

for hand painting the ratio for pain and thinner is about the same(if i remember correctly).
Usually hand paint will require 1 to 2 layers because of brush stroke.. If it's too watery maybe too much thinner or not yet dry..
There are some shops add thinner to the paint themselves then modeler add thinner some more resulting too watery...

primer/surfacer is a layer to cover scratches/erros and also makes the paint stick better... read the pinned threads for more info

once u paint of modify your kit, u should treat it more like display kit rather than toys. please do not play with it. If your intention is to "play" i would recommend u do not paint your kit.

The original paint by the manufacturer is somehow a little stronger n durable. However, as u can see from TF toys, u will notice most of them are the original plastic instead of painting. This is because it's meant for "playing. Even it does have some paint on it, u will notice somehow the paint still chips n scratched when u play.

The main difference is the "standard" we have for display kit n toy. a little scratches here n there for toys is ok n acceptable. For display kit, eg model kit, or collectable limited edition kit, i bet u will not "play" with it, cause scratches means a big deal.


Again, look at your toys, basically the paint still fade n cracked n scratched, but normally u dont care so much of its appearance. Hence have an impression its paint never fade or scratched.

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Added on March 21, 2010, 9:12 pmHaha, yes. do it like during school, when u paint a poster color homework.

paint too thick? add more water (thinner in this case). paint too thin? add more paint, or wait awhile it will because thick again.





Primer is layer of chemical to help the paint grab stronger to the surface. scratch the wall in your house or your car, after the main paint chipped off, u will able to see one layer of grey thing. that's primer (For car n your house, in this example)

This post has been edited by rayloke: Mar 21 2010, 09:12 PM

love u man ....Thanks you very much !!!!!!!!!!! ......

Xzens1110: Since u decided u r going to hand paint the kit, actually u can try search around in the net for hand painting techniques. For gundam n general gunpla, when u see most people talk about air brush instead of hand painting, dont get the wrong idea that air brush is by any chance more superior.

In fact there r many modelers in the world who produce world class painted job, and they r highly acclaim n respected in our hobby.

Hence, u can also expect there r lots of ways n techniques in hand painting.

Remember one thing: do paint your work as if u r painting a piece of oil painting and such. Imagine Micheal Angelo. People r still experimenting n developing lots of techniques that can achieve such beautiful effects on a model kit. This is part of the evolution of hand painting in modeling too.

Unfortunately locally, hand painting masters r far lesser than air brush users. So u need to search harder.

Happy modeling!

thanks ^^ allot

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Added on March 22, 2010, 12:25 ambtw Air Brush is how much per set ? its cost expensive ?

This post has been edited by Xzens1110: Mar 22 2010, 12:25 AM

price range from 100-500++... 1k also got... just handpiece only..
don't forget, you'll need to buy the compressor as well... Basic set for air brush can start from 300 and above(hand piece + compressor)... at least 500 should be good enough...
AB is suitable if you're planning to go serious in this hobby and would like to achieve more effects and etc....

For hand painting i think would be easier to have wattery mixture than thick as you end up with deep brush marks. Just make sure the mixture is not too wattery that you brush off the paint immediately after a stroke.

how to mix it to not so watery o.O? + less thinner ?

Erm, more wattery means ration 10:1 or 15(or more):1 water/thinner:paint. tamiya colors 'X' series is mostly water based. the rest are lacquer and will need thinner instead of water.

10:1 ratio or more is watery, what Advocado meant is it's actually easier. If your mixture is thick, we know it's easy to see how the color sticks to the paint when you did the first 5 swipes. When it's watery, you need more than 30 swipes or we called it layer. On the first layer of swipes, you will just notice it's like 'wiping water' over the kit. You wont see the effect until you try til the 10th or more. Best wait till dry then swipe next layer. I some times blow to dry or use hair dryer.

Handpaint, you have 2 techniques. wet-brush or dry-brush. Then as Rayloke says you can't touch it (if nto to "play"), what this meant is, you have to decide, when you color the kit, do you want it as a 'fixed posed' or 'posable unit', literally do you want to move it a lot or not move it at all after painting. We all know it get's scratches over time. Wet brush needs practice which is worth it, and then you will see why airbrushing using lacquer paints is somewhat what all advance or intermediate modelers prefer to use.

After 'priming', you do not want to touch it. Oil or whatever on your hands may stick on it and may beats the objective on why u primed it. - TO MAKE THE PAINT STICK. touch it and the paint will be hard to stick. Try painting on a disposable microwave transparent case (usually used for food package) using 15:1 water:paint ratio: Thats what you DONT want. the paint won't stick (easily). You may end up having brush strokes marks too ~

This post has been edited by cryonic: Mar 23 2010, 06:03 PM

Thanks ALot man !!! !^^ Thanks

how to do panel lining, if i intended to spray base code then follow by color, how should i add in that step

Depends what time of panel lining method you are using..
pen type - just apply on your lines
inking method(enamel) - make sure your color base is gloss type then you can use the inking method and let it flow~ (Need to clean up afterward)
Reason: if your color base is flat type, the ink would not flow so smoothly...

Excuse me for intruding suddenly. I'm currently painting my HG Stark Jegan, for most part I've put primer and paint over it, and starts applying top coat (Mr. Hobby Clear Flat).

Some part of the plamo turns white from the top coat. I want to ask why? =/ And how to prevent it from happening?

I used Mr. Hobby Clear Gloss top coat before and it never happened. So I'm wondering why now?

^ this could be due to a few factors.

1. you spray too close / too thick
2. you spray during wet weather. Do not spray flat coat when the air is full of moisture, i.e during rain, right after rain, going to rain, around a mist fan etc. etc.

Like what he said..
the white stuff is called Frosting btw...
If you are using spray can.. For best result, dip your spray can in warm water(not Too hot) for few minutes and then shake it well then spray 20-30cm away from the kit... 1-3 layers is enough depending how "flat" you want.