Tha compressor has an air tank. But very small one just for 8 second buffer don't know if you can count it as airtank. The compressor has auto on/off function by monitoring pressure in the airtank.

The one i used that splurts is basic dual action top loaded. The Gunze Sangyo pro-spray mk-iii i posted is the one i plan to use but connectors don't fit. I don't remember having much splurt on the Gunze last time i used it, just require more paint and u need minimum level of paint for it to work efficiently, but no problem since you can just remove the container and store it away. Also you can change paint nozzle size easily and you can move the paint nozzle closer/further from the air nozzle.

Initially wanted to get the compressor with a 1L airtank but my friend ask me to try this out. Well really didn't expect the airtank to be so small. Was thinking of getting one of those capsule shape air tank but i don't know what kind of connection it takes the connection is really a problem. Any good recommendations? The connector adapter are not cheap.

ah i'm so confused with so many connector size & shapes. How do i check what i got? any names or terms?

Tha compressor has an air tank. But very small one just for 8 second buffer don't know if you can count it as airtank. The compressor has auto on/off function by monitoring pressure in the airtank.

The one i used that splurts is basic dual action top loaded. The Gunze Sangyo pro-spray mk-iii i posted is the one i plan to use but connectors don't fit. I don't remember having much splurt on the Gunze last time i used it, just require more paint and u need minimum level of paint for it to work efficiently, but no problem since you can just remove the container and store it away. Also you can change paint nozzle size easily and you can move the paint nozzle closer/further from the air nozzle.
actually i oso kinda confused now by ur post
well... it's much easir to see wat u have in actual rather than seeing photos.
i can only think of changing the connector on the gunze handpiece to the one of ur external mix handpiece.
if that is interchangeable.
(there is one connector on the handpiece, and another one on the hose. i'm assuming like this:
gunze handpiece + connector A + hose connector X
external mix handpiece + connector B + hose connector Y

so what u can do is try fixing the connector B  on the gunze handpiece and use the hose connector Y


Initially wanted to get the compressor with a 1L airtank but my friend ask me to try this out. Well really didn't expect the airtank to be so small. Was thinking of getting one of those capsule shape air tank but i don't know what kind of connection it takes the connection is really a problem. Any good recommendations? The connector adapter are not cheap.


alternatively, bring the whole set to a hardware shop that sells air compressor and see if the boss there can help u out with the their available connector and hose.

happened to me too. pisses me off everytime my nice panel lines get smudged when i topcoat.

i usually dab my cleaning cloth with some tamiya thinner and rub to get rid of the topcoat on the smudged part. after repanel-line then respray.
i think tamiya thinner still remove significant amount of ur painted surface.
try zippo, if it can remove the ink, then good
if can, u may wanna try enamel paint wash over acrylic/lacquer.


on a different note i believe tamiya thinner works on topcoat frosting too.

Guys, need some guidance here. I am wondering, the stickers/decals placed on the gundam are quite visible to looked at. Anyway to hide them even more? Would top coat help and normally what do you guys use as a top coat? Where can i find them? Is clear paint = top coat? Thanks.

for waterslide decals...i've posted how to do that previously, read that.

for stickers, can't do much there. because basically stickers are pretty thick (compared to dry transfers and waterslide). in fact...the thickness is like this...dry transfer (thin), waterslide (medium), stickers (thick). because of this thickness, most modellers usually dun use the stickers. i know of a "master" that occassionally uses stickers especially those "caution" stickers which are rectangle.

the only way to make stickers less obvious... LOT AND LOTS of topcoat.as each layer of topcoat will slowly build up thickness. multiple topcoats will sooner or later cover up the stickers. once it's covered the sticker (with some spare layers), wet sand the kit. this is to even out the topcoat. reason being...ur sticker area will also have topcoats..so it'll be a micro bulge/lump there. so u need to wet sand down the topcoat to even out the surface. then polish the kit. followed by flat coat to ur preference

Wow, so there isnt any "easier" way to hide those stickers huh. Guess i have to live with that then. THanks for the tip there.

Do they sell decals for Patlabor? It comes with some dry transfer but like you said those warning stuff only comes in stickers.

Also what's the difference wet sand and normal sanding?

HHQ dont have rite
last time i been there cannot find it also