yes, it's still glossy even without the flash.


mist coat means...quick sprays over the kit. not press hard on the nozzle n spray thick layer on the kit. that way, would be full gloss liao. so to use "mist spray" on the kit...spray in quick passes. spray outside the kit...draw quick quick across the kit.

Thanks for the explanations, guys.
So "normal spray" means getting the whole thing wet.
Sounds like I could use the mist spray technique using Semi Gloss and gradually build up until I get the desired gloss effect.
I'll go visit the hobby store and see how much this Top Coat is. Gotta remember: blue can.
Just wondering, how long does it take for Top Coat Semi Gloss to dry?

if wet coat.. few hours to dry to touch. cured in 1-2 days.
mist coat 20-30 mins dry d..
to be save, just leave it overnight before u decided to do anything rough on it.



wah, david.. so "liao" ah.. the jolly roger skull on the zaku shield...

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Added on March 17, 2009, 5:39 pmalso, for ur information, semi gloss clear somehow having some little "flat base" in it, so, even sprayed with wet coat, the gloss will be lesser in extend compared to "gloss clear".

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Mar 17 2009, 05:39 PM

jolly roger skull fr hasegawa macross kit...ruined the kit, decided to use decals somewhere else...then zaku being made. so wat the heck

by the way, blue cans are hard to find now. but i saw a few in Hobby HQ. you may try there first.

This post has been edited by davelcm: Mar 17 2009, 05:42 PM

Okay, not gonna do anything rough. So I'll wait half an hour in between each mist coat of Semi Gloss.

Maybe I don't even have to wait in between each coat? The glossiness looks the same even when wet or dry, right? I spray until the desired glossiness, then only wait 1 - 2 days before putting the armour back on the body la. Can ar? A bit time consuming having to wait 30mins between every coat!

Oh that jolly roger is a custom job? I recognised it from an F-14 Tomcat I built many years ago.

I'm thinking of AF Hobby coz it's near my place. Where is Hobby HQ?

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Added on March 17, 2009, 5:54 pmThanks for the heads up. I'll try semi gloss clear first, for fear of getting a too glossy look. If I find that is not glossy enough, then I'll have to buy "gloss clear".

This post has been edited by Kinster: Mar 17 2009, 05:54 PM

HHQ add has been posted here before. use the search function faster


mmm.. not quite, when spray gloss, u need to wait the whole thing dry only will see the actual results.

if u can't get the blue one, i suggest u get the gray one and test it somewhere.
well.. that can spray is much cheaper than ur storm trooper..
u choose

Oh, now I think I remember reading about it. They moved to the site of the old F&N factory, rite?

Oh alright, then I'll wait until the whole thing dry then only decide whether to add another layer or not. Thanks for the info!

Hehe, that's the problem. Pay so much for the Stormie, still have to pay somemore to get it looking right! And also risk destroying it for being a newbie at this gloss spray business!!

well.. u get that only gloss storm trooper others get the matt one..
that's the diff everytime u look at it that matters..

Hahaha! Sounds so much better when you put it that way.
Thanks again to everyone who helped locating and properly using the correct type of gloss.

I don't know how you define hard, But I remember the tights, knee part I can tuck the armor in and out so i assume it is not gundam plastic hard, esp the left knee part just below the tights which comes out.

But i forgot. Anyway hope to see the outcome.


Aww man HobbyHQ was so near where i work but the whole building closing down for renovation. I pass by so many times but never gone in...

^that's the old shop... the new one move edi...

You said you 'remember the tights...' so I assume you own a Stormtrooper too? Yours is possibly one of the few done in the past before. Most other manufacturers of Stormtroopers have used soft material for the armour (Hasbro, Medicom, Marmit). This new one I got is made by Sideshow, and most 12-inch figure collectors are surprised that hard plastic is used this time. I'm not a regular gundam modeller, but I do have 2 gundam models. The plastic is quite similar on the Stormtrooper.

I am a little confused regarding what you said about the "knee part". Y'see, stormtrooper armour doesn't have a "knee part". There's the thigh part and there's the shin part. There's no knee part. The diamond shape on the Stormtrooper's left knee is connected to the shin part. Maybe you have a Clonetrooper, they have separate knee parts.

Here's a picture of the Hasbro Clonetrooper with the Sideshow Stormtrooper. The Hasbro figure armour is made of soft rubbery material.


Anyway, yeah, I'll post pics of the trooper once he's glossed up.

I never knew sideshow stormtrooper already out. How much is it? Maybe i overlooked the SIDESHOW you mentioned as I though it's a medicom.

sorry ya!

guys... dont OT.... later mod delete the OT post....

Well if it's sideshow spray ahead not much to worry about.

But lookin at the pic Medicom looks better, the Sideshow esp kuku bird part looks abit, how should i say, tiny?

He's brand new. Only arrived late last week. XL Shop lists him at RM358 (but it's sold out on the second day!). I got him for RM330 coz I preordered early. That was back in Feb 2008. It was over a year's worth of waiting!!

Yeah, the "down there" part looks kinda tiny. I purposely put the belt lower, trying to hide that part. Because my gf calls him "diaper man". That's why I'm trying to make the kuku bird part less "outstanding".

Well, just 2 posts ago, we we're talking about toys painting/glossing, that's not OT. But I don't wanna step on any mod's toes, so I'll stop here. Lastly, thanks again for everyone's help.

One problem with my double action top loaded airbrush. Normally splurts appear when you 1st open the nozzle and it evens out right?

My case if i open the nozzle for too long, maybe after 5 seconds splurts starts coming out. Not sure the problem is my airbrush or the paint?

well.. it could be both.
sometimes a cheaper airbrush could tend to happen more often.
suspected gap between the needle and the nozzle tip, as everytime u finish spraying and releasing the needle back in position, u'll observe that there will be a small droplet of paint at the tip of the nozzle.
if paint too watery it also happen.
or sometimes after sometime spraying, u'll notice the paint build up at the "crown" (that piece of cap that covers the nozzle tip) as well.

normally wat i do is press the trigger first without pulling the needle back. doing this releases the air and the "spurts" in the air, while having the trigger "down", i begin pulling the trigger and paint will start spraying out..
it minimise the spurts somehow..

u can do this
or
change the handpiece/ adjust ur thinning againt.

another possible reason for spurts...water is coming through the compressor. check your moisture trap...one way is change the hose to the transparent type...n see if water is flowing through the hose.

my initial hose was black then i got 1 fr Ace Hardware that's transparent...n saw the water flowing to my airbrush...and similar to paint accumulating at the crown n nozzle...when water starts to accumulate after the compressor heats up. so u usually get this after spraying for some time.

This post has been edited by davelcm: Mar 18 2009, 12:26 PM

hi, i don't dare to touch the hose, because it might affect the tightness & sealing of the hose which may result in air leaks. Also don't know what sizes of hose to get.

If can I would like to modify the hose to fit my Gunze Sangyo pro-spray mk-iii. What do you guys think about this brush compared to toploaded? I notice Toploaded paint can spray longer while bottom loaded finishes pretty quick.

My compressor has a tiny airtank for buffering, there's a moisture trap i can see moisture accumulated in the trap. So how do i remove the trap? Is it auto drain or I need to do something?