Nissan Almera 1.0 Turbo (VLT) R2 - Owner's Journal

Will be sharing my Ownership Experience / Costs / Thoughts / Issues. I am no expert in the matter nor do I have any knowledge in cars. Used to be driving my Dad's Nissan Almera (N17), purchased in 2013. It was the highest specification - VL if I am not mistaken. Was looking for a new car and was in a bit of a hurry. Called up Honda, Toyota, and Perodua; waiting time was about 4 months. Called up Nissan, waiting time was 1 month. Hence, I purchased the Nissan Almera Turbo 1.0 (N18). Purchased it from Edaran Tan Chong Motor (Tengah) Sdn Bhd, Seksyen 13, Petaling Jaya Branch. I purchased it from the Salesperson named Luqman Hakim, great guy and explained well. Only thing my concern was the 7,000KM Service Interval. But I still went with it.

Initial costing are as follows:

Booking Fee: RM 100.00

Registration Date: End September, 2022

Vehicle Selling Price: RM 95,668.00

Additional / Optional Accessories, Package - Tomei (VLT): RM 8,000.00 (EDIT: This was Free)

Year Road Tax: RM 20.00

Year Comprehensive / 3rd Party Insurance, (RHB / Insured RM 96,000.00): RM 2,626.59

Registration Fee: RM 150.00

Hire - Purchase Ownership Claim Fee: RM 50.00

It comes with 5 Years / 70,000KM* WITH 5 TIMES FREE MAINTENANCE SERVICE ON ALTERNATE INTERVAL FROM 7,000KM / 6TH MONTH*. PARTS & LABOUR INCLUDED. (*WHICHEVER COMES 1ST)

Vehicle Warranty: 5 Years Warranty With Unlimited Mileage

Free Gift: Road Tax Sticker

Free Gift: Umbrella

Please do take note that I had purchased my License Plate Number through the JPJ E-Bid prior to car purchase. With the E - Bid, you have 1 Year to register the vehicle with the number plate (might vary from time of posting). Hence, that is probably why there isn't any License Plate Fee.

Additionally, I will not be sharing my loan details / initial payment amount whatsoever as it varies with each individual.

This post has been edited by keithdx: Oct 27 2022, 12:41 PM

Since they dont charge u license plate, do they charge something else like plate number registration into car.... something to earn quick bucks?

Can u share process of registering bidding number to yr car pls. Tq

This post has been edited by Chisinlouz: Oct 27 2022, 10:52 AM

okthnxbye

Good choice, Tan Chong loves you

Topup a bit, get Honda Cibik

Wah.. I so jelly. I love CVT, torsion beam, and B segment goodies.

This post has been edited by pureawesomeness: Oct 27 2022, 11:18 AM

Turbo looks good

I will buy one if I have extra money

O to gear box rosak how fast

95k plus the body kit 8k is already 103k.

now b segment jap car all start to enter 100k range.

Bodykit need to buy? They dont give free?

That's why nissan fail in malaysia.
See toyota give bodykits free je

wow dint expect it to be that expensive

Where's the experience?

Got heater a/c or not?

It spells Saga?

you write so details, why never share how much discount your SA give you, or how much you over trade your car?

Tan Chong is famous to give very high discount for their cars.

how's the paint quality? cheapo / thin like the new vios?

Loleut

7k service interval, strange. mostly either 5k or 10k.

1.0 TURBO TOPKEK

1.0 T engine is 3 cyc engine?

I looking at car with the 2.0T engine but I think replacement is 2.4T
bigger engine but almost same hp, cipet... considering buying 2nd hand like that

Best design in B Segment. Reliability is not yet proven.

isnt the Tomei package free?

You'll probably have better luck with a thread like this in the F&F section.

What kinda discounts did you get from ETCM?

same as vios city ?

any exception for B segment sedan at that price?

Tebu got shorter service interval

accord 1.5 tcp still 10k km

Ativa 1.0T still 10K interval

Is Nissan tan chong punya policy…

accord 1.5tcp do not follow 10k interval
they follow electronic meter counter.
will need replacement anywhere from 6k to 10k depending on your driving pattern

oh my car actual mileage just 900km

Nop. Depending on board computer.
Civic 1.5T owners also feedback if always kaki berat or always stuck in traffic jam it will automatically cut short to around 6~7k oil change.
CRV 1.5T also same, as i knew 1 salesman driving it and complain of higher maintenance cost per year compare to his older ride. Even tho cheap road tax, but more time going in n out service center. In the end also contra back the cheap road tax benefits become none.

Unless you always drive highway at legal speed and light footed than maybe can reach 10k, but how many people got that discipline.

This post has been edited by littlefire: Oct 27 2022, 11:24 AM

turbo dun skim on oil change... also remember to cool the turbo, last 1000-500m before your destination, drive slow let the oil cool the turbo and your car should last very long

never had any issue with my turbo car until written off in accident

Until today the only weakness i heard from new Almera Turbo is the engine mounting wont last too long and after sometime the vibration can be felt even worse. Do remember that the 1.0T engine is still 3-cylinder, so the design itself is not that balance or less vibration compare to like 4-cylinder engine. The only solution is to claim new engine mounting if within warranty, this is what i heard from a Nissan technician.

nissan service mahal

They did not charge anything extra, at least with my experience.

I will try to remember as much as I can with JPJ E - Bid, I can't remember in exact detail.
- So, JPJ released a few state Alphabets - there were 3 at that time.
- I pick let's for example RXX alphabet. Then I choose the number that I want to bid on - for example 1234.
- When I search for 1234, it will show the starting Bid amount, you would need to pay RM 10, to take part in the bidding and see the current Bid price.
- So let's say if you're interested in RXX 1234, when you place the Bid, you would need to pay it immediately. If you lose the Bid, it's refunded.
- Let's say if you already paid the RM 10 to see the live Bidding for RXX 1234, but you're not interested; you would need to pay another RM 10 to see another live Bidding Plate (example: RXX 2345).
- 30 Minutes before the Bidding closes, the price interval for each Bid increases. Plus the majority of the Bids happens closer to the time just before the price internal goes up (9:30PM if I'm not mistaken).

Hope this helps. I received the soft copy document that I am the owner of the plate on the E - Bid site / app or through email (can't remember) and that document was what I passed to the Sales Person. And he got it done.

That's as much I can remember actually.

I've edited the initial posting, the Tomei Bodykit came in free (worth RM 8K).

No other discounts given other than the ones stated (if any). Maybe I'm not lucky enough

usually you can ask SA to trade the bodykit with cashback.

i owned a 2014 almera. that time the rebate almost same as bodykit. if opt for bodykit then no cashback.

Before I could share any more on the experience, there's already a few comments here and there.

Got the Almera in white, paint so far all good. Whether thin or not, I have no idea. But I do wash the car weekly.

I have no complains with the interior aside from the Beige wrap on the Dashboard and on the seats. Would rather have it in all black.

MY OVERALL DRIVING EXPERIENCE THUS FAR (FROM PURCHASE TO 1,000KM)

Just keep in mind that, I do not know much driving terms, just a regular person sharing so others may find it helpful.

- It's quiet. Everything is dampened quite well. For the doors, you may have to close it a little bit more harder haha. Nothing wrong with that. Quiet maybe because of the Continental UC6 that it comes with.

- If I'm not mistaken, Full Tank is about RM 65, I will fill it until I am able to see the petrol at the top of the hole. Have not gone entirely on the highway but so far it with a city highway + city, it's about 450 - 470KM per fill (my experience). The counting on the meter shows 13KM/L I think. Home to work is about 1.5KM. So not much long distance travel, all nearby and sometimes highway.

- Used the Cruise Control once, don't find it really useful unless it's Adaptive Cruise Control.

- The Side / Rear / 360 Cameras are great and pretty accurate. During my initial test drive, the Salesperson showed how accurate it was. So no complains there. I like it that when I put it in reverse and turn the steering wheel, the guides turn as well. Don't want to start any fires here but it's better than the cameras on the current Flagship X50.

- There was one time I was about to enter the Smart Tunnel and just before entering I think there was this Height Limit sign just above the road (stretched across). I was going at about 80KM/H I think and suddenly the emergency brake thingy kicked in and went off after about 1 second / half a second. Not sure why but maybe it detected a possible hit.

- I use an Android and there's no Android Auto. But it connects via Bluetooth automatically whenever I switch on the car, so that doesn't really bother me. I still prefer to use Waze on my phone. It has Apple CarPlay but it's not wireless though.

- Acceleration is alright. It does the job when I need it to. It can take curves at a pretty reasonable speed, tried it at 90KM/H+, I didn't feel much, was pretty planted and smooth. I think the seats (because it's pretty bolstered on the side) helped as well.

- The top of the Dashboard is flat so can place the Smart Tag Holder and etc easily.

- Aircond is cold. And I don't think rear air vents are needed. Even with the lowest speed, it's cold.

That's about all there is thus far. Just done my 1,000KM Service and will update soon!

Any questions, drop ahead

This post has been edited by keithdx: Oct 27 2022, 01:21 PM

tayar pump how much airs

Filling up petrol to the max like that is actually causing harm to your car

Source: https://www.google.com/amp/s/philkotse.com/...or-bad-8833/amp

I nearly bought this car. And then I changed job and it didn't feel very stable and someone says to me: "If you lose your job in 2 years, you'll probably sell this car and still owns a bank for its low resale value."

So I went for a City. Don't get me wrong, I love the new Almera Turbo. There no full Level 2 autonomous and second hand value but is offset by its C-segment sound suppression.

Perhaps in the future I have cash to spend, I'll probably get this car.

This post has been edited by aemon: Oct 28 2022, 01:34 AM

If your loan is over 5 years, even 2 years you sell for Honda or Toyota also will loss money and need to pay back to bank.
FYI 1~3 years car at least 30% from original cost will lost once you put up the no. plate and move on the road, unless you sell it your own at a higher price tag or get it tender at online car website and see which willing buyer want to take it.

This post has been edited by littlefire: Oct 28 2022, 08:35 AM

had the same thought..

almera nice car but lack of L2 autonomous is a deal breaker.

went for ativa instead

if only City equip with LSF and stop & go feature, might consider it

True. But the lack of market pricing for second hand Almera Turbo at that time make it hard for me to ascertain. Got no choice but to take up City at that time because old car getting to 17 years and really repairing is getting really expensive.

LSF is what functions may i know ?

1.0 95K ++ no way

isi until chacoal canister got or not worr
the hose so tiny only allow air pressure summore got valve blocking until sensor detect

the 1.0 engine itself is turbo, compared to other competitors are just 1.5 N/A.
Besides that the safety features, accessories & design that Nissan offered nowadays really top of the range, so it still justified of the higher price range.

How's the vibration:
* at idling?
* at speed?

agreed, i hate to say this but till nowadays there is still way too many people noisy regarding displacement ( cc small / big ). Current tech turbo engine is reliable enough if you properly maintain it, can last years without causing any isu related on engine.

Punchy 1.0 Turbo is much much better than 1.5 NA especially to those who only use it for short trip/town driving/grab and etc.

This is surprising that we don't see more of this model on the road.

Looks good, handles good, adequate power, plenty of torque, very good mileage .

Great reviews from many reviewers.

Maybe a tad more pricy than other B-segments.

So, why don't we see more of this on the road?

Surely it's not just the turbo?

I believe its probably due to branding issue. And Tan Chong isnt putting hard effort in building the brand name.
Furthermore they are already making losses.
https://www.theedgemarkets.com/article/tan-...n-losses-around

Secondly, at RM 83,888 , and a 1.0L turbo which gives a mere 100 horses (consumers always like to look at horsepower, even though they are not racing) and some would even look at "Eh its only 1.0L displacement" typical mindset.
The previous Almera wasn't doing that well either even with the standard 1.5NA.

Its also way more expensive than City 1.5L , which starts from Rm 77,600 (and the E spec is around the corner at RM 85,800)

And the popular Proton X50 (despite different segment) is just a shy RM 86,300 onwards, which attracts customers with the 1.5L turbo, and quite good looking dashboard interior.

i wonder how long X50 waiting time now, sure it's at least 6month. Selling like hotcake. I like the new Almera, if compared to previous gen, it's like worm turning to butterfly.

However for that kind of price tag, i will probably go for used Optima GT/Elantra Sport(Turbo)

This post has been edited by babisotong: Mar 15 2023, 10:33 AM

Which car has 2.4T ?
2.0T already can get nearly 250 hp, and almost 400 Nm.

I still keep mine at 10K.

new subbie la

ooo... niceeeee

definitely pricy and safety goodies lost to perodua which got way lower price. so pay more for less?. thats explain few nissan almera on the road.

definitely cipet. they downtune the power. dunno why they use bigger engine but almost same output with previous gen. so stingy

maybe to help with reliability issue such as the meme *head gasket, EO starvation and etc*

no la.... subbie engine very reliable if you dun simply reflash or mod...

my previous turbo car also serbis every 10k mileage... dun care duration. car not heavily use so like 1 year serbis once

warm up before tekan and warm down properly... dun starve turbo of oil especially after vroom here and there. all meme are overboost and never warm up/down properly

na brz/86 can sebis 15k... even longer duration

Required only if you have been tekan-ing... isn't it?

That's comparing foreign cars with local cars. It's a value-for-money comparison which is valid by itself.

But that's not what I was referring to.

A more appropriate comparison is with the Vios and City and Mazda.

Nope. Applies to all cars.
My standard of practice

i) Idle the engine for 30 seconds (roughly) before putting into gear - Let the lubricant circulate properly even though I know its on 0W or 5W viscosity and it should be seconds .
ii) Then start driving. Engine oil temperature takes longer to warm up compared to your water temperature.
- I have the habit of not turning on the aircond until the water temperature reaches minimum 50C ; This is so that it doesn't place extra load during cold engine, and your radiator fan will cool it down, making it warm up slower.
- For cars without Celcius or OBD, its either the Blue light goes off or 2 bars (for my Proton) which indicates around 50C has passed.

iii) Drive gently first if possible. Not asking you to drive like a granny and hog the road. GO easy on the throttle.
- Even in F1, they heat up the engine block (without engine running) first before start of the race.

I have owned a turbo car before. There are some precautions you need to take. But that was sometime ago.

Technology has improved. I don't believe what you are doing is necessary anymore.

not necessary to do such....

start car, idle few seconds when you drive off, keep the RPM low ... when you idle at below 1k rpm vs driving off at 2k-3k rpm is nothing... just dont go high rev and spool the turbo at full speed before warmed up

for warm down, usually when I turn to my street or near house, driving in shopping parking/looking for parking just chill and cruise, low RPM oil will flow and cool down. after stop, idle alnother few seconds while turning off AC/Radio is good enough.

Some people like to vroom vroom announcing to everyone they arrived, then turn off the car, this will cause the turbo to heat up and starve of oil.

Frequent oil change also good if you drive like a maniac all the time, too much heat the oil break down faster.
Most car with stock low pressure turbos, not much additional precautions required.

Engine oil i can say improve a lot by using fully synthetic and lower viscosity for faster oil flow & protection

But regarding turbo cooling system might need to take note on that, if your turbo engine system does not got like modern continental which got additional oil or water cooler system (some use electric water pump to keep running) to cool down the turbo after it is off it is better to idle for a while like 10~15 seconds or fit a turbo timer with oil temperature or O2 sensor reading to help prolong the turbo life.

This post has been edited by littlefire: Mar 20 2023, 04:07 PM

Yes you are also correct ,howszat. I'm also using Full synthetic.
Its just a self-precautionary measure despite not written in the manual.

Usually I will intentionally idle the car with aircond on (depends on how long it take), to bring the shutdown temperature down to below 87C.
This is for Exora. I know other turbo cars not required due to better cooling system design (and dont have Oil Cooler Assembly)

For Exora, anything above 88C it will auto trigger the radiator fan and it takes minutes cool it down until it drops below 88C. On normal driving, it will hover between 86-88C.
Cause when engine shutdown it will rise up to 90-91C. I've monitored this through the OBD. And for Exora, it does have a separate electric water pump.

Unfortunately my usual app, is not able to read oil temperature from Exora's ECU.
@littlefire, regarding about your comment "O2 sensor reading to help prolong the turbo life"
Exora's ECU allows reading of catalytic converter temperature, but I find it useless.

Hope this explains well my precautionary measures.

Nothing too specific from the Almera manual.

Ts, the only not good for Nissan is Tan Choong Motor. Try follow fb group, u can see why, for most Nissan model here. And I read most ex Nissan owner not even bother to touch them again if still under TCM. Hint, warranty claim poor, and tendency to use low quality parts (localized?) for model sold here by TCM

Still like this nowadays?
No wonder my friend father went to viet branch.

how is the almera for the rear seat passengers? Is it soft and comfortable?

Go and try, different people might got different expectation.
For me Nissan seats are quite comfortable, more better than Honda personally.
They always market their seats as zero gravity.

https://www.nissan-global.com/EN/INNOVATION...PIRED_CAR_SEAT/

This post has been edited by littlefire: Feb 21 2024, 09:58 AM

Somehow I missed this thread earlier. Looks like you may be the only owner of the Nissan Almera Turbo on this forum. We took delivery of the Almera Turbo Kuro black edition about 3 weeks ago just before Chinese New year.

May I ask if you have installed the Ultra Racing Stage 1 bars to your vehicle? Are there any other experiences you may want to share after owning the car for more than 2 years now? I got to know that TCEAS actually provides this Ultra Racing bar installation at all their service centres. Would like to know on the differences (if any) on handling of the vehicle if the UR bars are installed.

The Almera turbo is actually driven by my dad and I have not spent much time with the vehicle. Some key points of the Almera Turbo as follows:-

1. Noise insulation inside the cabin is rather good for a vehicle in this class. It's a quiet drive.
2. Acceleration power from the 1.0 litre turbo engine, no complaints. It cannot match the power of a 2.0 litre NA but the acceleration feels more powerful than most 1.5 litre NA engines. Some commented that the power is comparable to a 1.8 litre and I would tend to agree. Most 1.8 litre vehicles on the market are larger C-segment sedan and SUV such as Corolla sedan and Corolla Cross. Although they might appear more powerful on paper, in real life the acceleration feel is more or less the same as the Almera turbo due to the heavier weight. I've test driven both Corolla sedan and Corolla Cross prior to getting the Almera turbo. The acceleration power of the Corolla feels lethargic in comparison to the Ford Focus 2.0. As a matter of fact I felt the power surge of the Almera turbo to be comparable or better than the Corolla in the low to mid end speed.
3. Suspension feels soft and comfortable when going over speed bumps and undulations. Certainly tuned more toward comfort than sporty handling.
4. Steering is light and easy to drive. Steering feedback and sharpness are not as good as the Ford Focus but decent.
5. Tried bringing the car to 140 km/h on the highways and it doesn't feel too stable at higher speeds perhaps due to the undulations on the stretch along Kesas highway. It's a bit floaty at higher speeds. My benchmark is high as the Ford Focus I used to own for 10 years not only has excellent handling but also very good stability at high speeds.
6. A slight aeroplane "woo woo" sound between speeds 20 km/h to 100 km/h, not sure if from tyres or CVT. Will have it checked at the service centre during the 1,000km service.

Although the Almera turbo is considered to be quiet, the quitest and most comfortable vehicle I've driven (owned) is the Nissan Sylphy 2.0. Can't hear much engine, road and outside vehicle noise with the Sylphy. But in terms of handling the Sylphy is worse than the Almera turbo. When taking a corner, you have to do it at very low speeds or else you and all the other occupants sitting at the rear seat will be flung to one side.

This post has been edited by SportyHandling: Feb 21 2024, 12:35 PM

If you did not always drive in corners high-speed, the difference will not be too much. Besides that, ultra racing are mostly using mild steel which is hard if driving thru bad road condition might feel the car more jumpy. Personally i would recommend Cusco (Aluminum), light weight, softer material and does the job also but at a higher cost.

all depend thickness spec rite

If thickness related usually that is for anti roll bar, for other bar depends on raw material, design and how many point to link it is very subjective, but ultra racing as per name is more suitable for racing purpose. A lot of my friends already move to Cusco or original tuners from car manufacturer, example like Nismo, Impul bars for normal road use cars as their products usually can struct a balance in term of driving comfort & performance.

In the past a lot of their normal road cars fitted with ultra racings bars and in the end most remove due to harsher ride and if involve in accident need even more time & money to remove & repair. Just imagine the bar still intact, but your chassis already bend. This is not good, as the bar did not help absorb the impact but transfer it to other link area. This hard material stuff if it is roll cage then no problem, but for normal bars that is not a good idea.

that y UR make packages in stage1, stage 2.5 whatever
similar to other brand around local markets. zerone & super circuit so on
make owner feels cool. no harm no big effect.

just like chinese herbal tea. drink more feel cold. less cough cure sore throat.
when drinking plain water get the same effect. hahaha ^^

plain water ice kosong 50sen/ rm1 maybe
herbal tea price at least triple of it.

also higher status compare to other table who dont order drinks at all (usually me)

This post has been edited by ktek: Feb 23 2024, 09:27 AM

you need to try by yourself , i've tried before on a friend of mine almera 1.0 turbo , for me comfortable and just nice

how is the highway drive feel for this car?

If around 110km/h and below, no issue. Just tried up to 140km/h along Kesas highway between Klang and PJ and it doesn't feel too stable and a little floaty, so I brought the speed back down to 100km/h. The stretch of highway along Kesas near Shah Alam is not even and undulating but still that is no excuse for the floaty feeling of the vehicle. Due to the light weight of the vehicle, it's not very stable at high speeds up to say 130 or 140km/h but if around 110km/h it should be fine.

For city driving it's quite perfect due to the light steering(easy to manoeuvre) and low petrol consumption. For highways, no issue at legal speed limits but floaty feeling at higher speeds.

This post has been edited by SportyHandling: Feb 27 2024, 01:11 PM

Reasons to the floating feels probably due to the tyres pressure because it use hard compound UHP the pressure should be 210 not recommend as standard 230, it will much much better grip if you change to soft compound tyre like vios city using

Japanese car is generally are more floaty at high speed compared to conti cars. I even felt floaty on my CRV at 140kph.

Higher tyre pressure might be a possible cause of the floating effect when driving at higher speeds. I didn't check the tyre pressure and didn't have the opportunity to drive the vehicle above 100km/h for the past few months as it's mostly driven around town.

There's one annoying aspect of the Nissan Almera I didn't bring up earlier. It's the humming sound from the Continental UC6 tyres when the vehicle is driven between speeds 20 km/h top 100 km/h. This humming sound from the tyres appears to affect all Nissan Almera as the Continental tyre outlet I visited notified that many Almera owners brought their cars to their outlet to complain on the humming sound like I did.

I need to select a silent tyre when the UC6 tyres are worn and due for replacement, perhaps in another 4 to 5 years. It's a pity that the standard UC6 tyres show the humming sound on the Nissan Almera.

I used to own the Nissan Sylphy 2.0. It's not only floaty but body roll is very high with this one and the speeds have to be very low when doing a 90 degrees cornering otherwise there's the feeling the vehicle is going to turn turtle. No joke. The Almera's handling is much improved to the old Sylphy and it's just the floating effect which is still present.

The soundproofing of the Almera is not as good as the Sylphy though.

it just a city driven car model, yes they designed it to be soft suspension set up like Vios also. Comfort at city drive, but more body rolls at high speed. Never driven this Almera Turbo yet, but used to drove previous gen Almera, that one body rolls to the max. Even big lorry passing the car, it auto getting body rolls a bit

This post has been edited by ayamxxx: Apr 8 2024, 08:53 AM

not entirely correct. I have both conti and jap cars. My FC civic is really not bad on highways. Can speed more than 140kmh without any fuss and 'floaty' feeling. Its almost comparable to my G30 Bimmer.

For your case is more of a SUV which is on a high center of gravity. Hence, you should not be speeding more than 140kmh.

Heck, I used to owned an Alphard/Vellfire before and I can really say that its stable at 120kmh max. More than that, it's pretty risky. I seriously see SOOOOOOO MANY Alphard/Vellfire that speeds more than 140kmh on highways. They either have balls of steel or just want to stoke their BIG EGOs!

Cheers!

Most stable Jap cars is the Axia. Proof? Saw many driving very fast and overtaking me easily on the highway

It's been a while since I last checked this forum.

The car has now clocked 14K+ KM and so far so good with no issues (yet). I always go for fully synthetic.

Seats are comfy but I must say that the back seats of the old Almera is more spacious than the current Turbo.

The car does the job and it's also quite a good looking vehicle. If you have not gotten the Tomei Kit, I think you guys should. I've seen some without and the car feels a bit naked. But then again with the kit - your car is lower and high chance will get scratched / cracked - similar issue to the older Almera. Have to weigh the pros and cons.

No yellowing on the seats / dashboard so far (since it has white). But maybe this is too early to say? I try my best to avoid touching the dashboard as well.

I keep my front lights on auto and the sensor is pretty accurate / fast.

But just a few things,

- I opted for the white paint on the vehicle. Is it just me or does it just get tiny marks so easily? It's not scratches but marks. Every once in a while I got to wipe it off. I'm not sure if it's a white car thing or the quality of the paint.

- The 360 Camera. It feels like just above 10KM/H then the camera goes off. I've driven the X50 as well and the 360 Camera remains on till about 30KM/H which is more preferable. It's more for navigating through tight spaces / spiral parking lots. Will raise this up to Nissan (Seksyen 13, PJ) and see what they can do about it. I'm sure it just needs a software tweak. Hopefully can be done.

- I'm not sure if it's just my car but I always feel that it's pretty difficult to move the gear from P to D / and etc. Just requires a lot of strength to move the gear (yes I do press the button to switch).



Want to also check, before warranty is up, can I get whatever under warranty changed? (I.E. Gearbox / etc). Just want to be on the safer end with a new one halfway through than to have issues slightly after with the existing. Can it be done? Got lubang? Looking to just take advantage of the matter but not sure how.

For point 6, did you get it checked? Any feedback from Nissan TCM? I don't seem to have this issue actually or maybe I'm just not aware of it (tend to play loud music).

Hello hello. Fellow N18-generation Almera VLT owner here. I've been keeping an eye on this thread before I got mine last year. I opted out of the Tomei bodykit even though it was offered free at the time because I actually prefer how it looks without (still has the stock black bootlid spoiler though). Feels like a bit of a dead weight to me tbh.

I'm not sure if it's even a white car thing or a paint quality thing - could just be the environments you're driving through. I have mine in Monarch Orange and it picks up stuff too depending on the weather and dirt in the environment.

I'm curious about the 360 camera's speed limit too. I've never had to use it past certain speeds where it cuts off but let me know if all it takes is a software tweak.

Haven't felt any issues with shifting from P to D, etc. If this hasn't always been the case for you, you might wanna get it checked.

As for getting stuff changed within the warranty period, I think they'll only entertain your requests if they officially diagnose a problem, so there's that.

This post has been edited by _Zephyre_: May 20 2024, 06:19 PM