your observation on dual-rail design is similar to what i suspected. i think gateron needs few iterations to make it relatively better.

the 'actuation point' is normally called pre-travel, i.e., the distance the stem travels before actuation happens. there are a number of names that have the same meaning, e.g., 'operating travel'. for key switches that follow mx design, it's usually at 2mm. (total travel is 4mm) if a force-travel diagram is provided, it's the distance to reach the operating position/point.

edit: the following example is from gateron, for their north pole series.



This post has been edited by horns: May 13 2024, 10:03 PM

i was bashing the logitech. Seems like i wasn't the only one who noticed this bs. Seems it's all over reddit but like this youtuber said, a lot of people who critisized it didn't try it.


watched it and i feel my first impression from the outside was the correct one. mostly the price. for less you can get more or even comparable so what exactly are you paying extra for this logitech model. that was my main gripe

no nice extras?

the recent RK M75 i purchased came with a few extra switches and keycap puller. But the logitech X60 PRO came with no nice extra (came with some carry case, and 1 escape key, that's it)

Question, is the Logitech prelubed? cauz the RK i got was, and so are some of the alternative mkbs. Just wondering Might not seem like much, but in the mkb space these extras are nice to have (they go that extra mile)

@15:10 into the video he introduces an alternative mkb for HALF the price. That really put the nail in the coffin on the logitech

This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: May 14 2024, 06:08 AM

.. ok someone reported wrongly about 'soldered' optical key switches. then again, a pcb that can only use their own optical switches is a turn-off.

seriously how logitech approved, and made this a product to compete in 2024 is really beyond me.

hahaha ok i get it now. This difference is due to stem design?

Recently I gotten a JTK set from zfrontier and the 7u spacebar was warped. Search online on how to straighten a warp ABS spacebar and I saw many recommended using a hair dryer or hot gun.
But since at my workplace, I have access to oven with good temperature control. I use Kapton tape, secure both ends of the spacebar to a flat Alu bar, set the oven to 80'C and cook the spacebar for 20mins.
And voila, after taking it out and letting it slowly cool, the spacebar was straight as an arrow.

Initially I tried using 60'C, but it was not hot enough to "soften" it.

I would say those gaming peripheral vendors needs a high margin for their product therefore they need to price their parts higher vs custom keyboard or purpose keyboard vendor.
You slap some RGB + some "gaming" feature and sell it at a higher price. RGB are literally very cheap LEDs.


which HMX did you used before. I was contemplating to get some HMX linears to try them out since I saw people provided good comment for them.

I recently got hold of some broken in cherry MX black that came together with a used board. It sounded good to me. But that stem is bad in my books.
Maybe I get a couple more to of new MX blacks to compare it to the broken in ones to have a better idea what is all this deal about broken-in switches.

Okay thanks for the reply. But, any advice on the DOs and DONTs when shopping the boards there?

i believe stem design contributes the main part, but it might also be due to shorter well.

nice. it's good to have a better environment to fix warped keys.

vendors can set whatever price for their products, but pricing strategy must at least have some basic common sense.

broken-in mx black is usually relatively better than stock. it doesn't mean it's better than other alternatives.

there are local shops that you can try before buy in klang valley. you should pay them a visit. since you have a leopold, i think you should get one with full metal case, foams and gasket-mount and start from there. do ask the guys at the shops to help you out.

edit: as for do and don't, it really depends on many things. i didn't get the part when you said, 'when shopping the boards there' so i suggested you visit a physical shop to experience different boards yourself, with shop keepers that can help you out when needed.

This post has been edited by horns: May 16 2024, 08:54 AM

I tried a few, my favorite is probably Lotus and Xinhais.
But all of them are minor tweaks from each other (all linears with different travels, materials, spring weight etc) so they are all similarly great. Factory lubed, smooth, less wobble than others, but super loud

here is a small update about tx springs. now they have 5 different series of linear rated, with a rich bottom-out weight range for each:

1. S - 14mm Short
2. M - 15mm Medium
3. L - 16mm Long
4. XL - 18mm XL springs
5. UXL - 22mm UXL springs

i saw the latest uxl series previously, so i started to look for key switches with shorter key travels. this group of key switches uses 22m usually.

they dont come in double stages?

Where do you usually get these?

no, tx only produce linear rated springs so far.

i get them from various places, e.g., keys.my, shopee.

Heh, another major vendor in EU bit the dust. Glad I didnt get in to this hobby during the heydays.

https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboard...eu_is_bankrupt/

it's a sad news indeed.

this is why i appreciate local shops. i do visit and get stuff from them from time to time. i know it's not much, but i try support them whenever possible. (honestly, my stocks of parts are growing, but most of them are untouched)

i really hope all of them do well, so that there are always better places for new users to start their first step.



This post has been edited by horns: May 18 2024, 12:28 AM

few days ago, tkd cycle7's qmk source code was finally included in the official qmk source tree, https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/tree/ma...s/vertex/cycle7

the code was initially developed by eason; then vertex team took over. vertex team has added more layouts into the final code, updated led count, and few more settings.

i have ported mine that uses old source from eason to the latest. everything is tested and working fine.

edit: most of my pcbs already have stable source codes for firmware maintenance.

few are working fine, but still not official. these are cn-made kits. they use affordable mcu alternatives that are included in qmk supported list.

it's fine, as long as i have the working source code i can make them work.

This post has been edited by horns: May 19 2024, 04:46 PM

Yeah so far i think all the dealings with local vendors has been great. Many genuinely passionate people in the hobby.

But group buys are just so easily getting burnt so big turn off.. I'm just glad these days you can get good stuff easily and not super pricey.

yes. local shops are ok.

gbs are different. there are more risks involved. locally, there are few vendors which act as proxies are doing their best to make sure goods are delivered since back in the days. still, there are things that are not really up to them to decide and control.

fortunately, the current market is better than before. there are relatively more responsible gb vendors now.

ws jade is ok. i will get more for future builds and collection hehe

the stainless steel piece at the end of stem pole of ws jade makes relatively high pitch and loud sound. in terms of key travel, it's like jwk jade rabbit. (meaning, 3.5mm total travel, 2mm actuating) stem wobbles are minimal. the factory prelube job is ok. (fine lubing) sping pings are none imo.

linear key switches are really getting better, and you can just use them as is, or with minimal tuning.

Nice recommendation. I'm looking for some loud linear switches to try out. Something with similar weight to the vertex V1 that are loud.
Those HSMX xinhai and lotus are of very different spring weights, are they significantly different?
Also looking at the WS jades, the operating force seems to be around 50g which is quite high. Is it heavier vs the vertex V1?


Basically now I will more or less use switches that are good to go out of the box. Lubing switches are PITA.
Currently I'm liking the Sarokey BCP on the spacebars. The sound is just crisp.

As for the local vendors, I'm very glad that they exist as those GB that are handle by them are so much easier with the reduced shipping cost, tax etc. It is just less hassle.


This post has been edited by zzzz52: May 21 2024, 11:40 AM

zFrontier had a sale on Labour Day so I picked up KAT Cat's Eye Alphas and Coleverak kits at 15% off.

Committed to Colemak DH now on my daily driver at work.



1 week in and I'm still at a pathetic 18wpm.

This site has helped a lot:
https://gnusenpai.net/colemakclub/

Alphas - Cat's Eye dark
Numrow - Arctic
Mods - Atlantis
Spacebars - Lich

So I have dye sub, reverse dye sub, and doubleshot KAT all on one board.

This post has been edited by niakulah: May 21 2024, 01:18 PM

Is this the same board as your previous one? the custom you made.