I also accidentally discovered an encoder hack in the Keyboard Atelier discord. [attachmentid=11233412]
Beside the encoder is the detent ring. It has the gears that gives the encoder its errrrr.. detents. You just peel back the 4 tabs holding down the green plastic to the encoder body, peel off the green plastic (2 layers). Then you can remove the detent ring. There was also a green "cap" that keeps the detent ring in place and covers the bottom of the shaft. I put that back in before reassembling.
The experience is like going from a medium heavy tactile to a super light linear. It might be annoying to use with a cheap and light aluminium knob. But it should be a reversible mod so I'll give it a try first.
F me. Soldered the encoder in and it didn't work at all, even the press button.
Pandai2 only. I actually removed the encoder part and not the detent ring.
Here, found a video so hopefully anyone reading this, watch it first before doing and don't be bodoh like me ya.
there is no 'bodoh' in experimentations. we all do dumb things at times, and we need to do this to learn more haha
Thanks for the kind words. I successfully removed the ring and reassembled the encoder with the part I removed before. Soldered and confirmed working.
Another thing I got wrong is this mod is NOT reversible. Getting the ring out practically destroys it. You have a better chance of fixing a bent switch leaf than fixing the ring after removal.
No soldering this weekend Struggled to fix 2 stabs stubbornly ticking when tapping the keycap at a certain angle. Fixed 1 by changing the holee mode from the Teflon strip that came with the stabs to cloth tape, and by changing the wire. Although the wire looked absolutely fine and straight. Sigh...
And screwed up my PE foam layer fixing the stabs. Need to do another piece for each side.
Looking pretty. Assembled but only rotary encoder has been soldered in.
for those tiny ticking noises, it's better to check if the stabilizer housings are sitting flush. sometimes this is the cause of the noise also, especially at the areas that secure wires.
in my case, most of my recent builds are using plate-mount stabilizers from fl-cmmk, since i still have plates with plate-mount stabilizer support. so far, they are good enough with minimal tuning.
Thanks. I'm pretty sure they're flush but I'll double triple check that. Might be related but they both happen to be at the edge of the PCB so the screw holes are not full holes. Maybe I need to do something extra to secure them better.
Personally I like countersunk screws with an aluminium washer. That way you can add some flair with different colours of anodized aluminium. I used blue in my boards above.
Hello experts... I would like to ask where can I get Boba U4 62g (silent) at reasonable price?
My friend gave me 30 x U4 and oh man... It's really silent compared to the default Cherry MX Brown...
Looking to purchase to the rest to complete the setup...
Thank you!
https://www.gazzew.com/ would be the "official" place to look for distributors. I've bought from Pantheon twice with no problem. Aliexpress might be cheaper but be prepared to wait a month plus.
Oh and have a look at Bobagum too. It's their silent linear switch.
Yes. I don't remember the details but people were complaining browns were not tactile enough, clear is more tactile but too heavy. Swap a brown spring into a clear==ergo clears.
My preference is quite different than the majority though. I like to spring swap my browns with a heavier spring. Lol.
I am planning to get a split keyboard for programming? Any recommendation? ergodox-ez seems good but expensive. Thinking to get Sofle V2 Split Ergonomic Mechanical Keyboard.
Check out Keebio. I"m not a programmer but system/network admin. I daily drive a Keebio FoldKB at work. Previously using Keebio Sinc.