I saw that news as well and was thinking, really curious to feel how to use a KB that has a display underneath it.

Where is the shop?

You do need to specify your budget for some recommendation

I saw the Monsgeek M1 and it looks good for my use case, wanted to try some different 75% kit, but no wireless and bluetooth is a deal breaker.

I was using the Akko PC75B previously and I need to purchase another 75% KB. Is the any recommendations that is similar to M1 in pricing, features, quality but with wireless connectivity?

For the MMD holy pandas, you mentioned too wobblly, what switch are you comparing it to?
Wobble means keycaps will move in the x and y dierection when we
I compared the MMD holy pandas to the like of U4T, SP star magic girl, Dareu violet gold, the wobble is similar.
My Akko purple jelly with those dustproof stem is significantly less wobble.

I was deciding of switching out the Akko purple jelly due to the push feel is slightly light, was thinking of changing all to the MMDs.

Did you have any tactiles swtiches in mind to replace your MMDs?

Probably I would get some of those feker panda to test it out.

BTW, where did you source the Feker Panda's from?

It is too far. lol. People in klang valley shoudl try out keyboards there.

Hi Guys, sorry to kacau you a bit. Where do you source your keycaps from?
I check around some places are offering those expensive keycaps and some like in shopee don't provide clear information.
My budget max ~RM200

I'm trying to look for thick keycaps with cherry profile. It is just I cannot buy different types and try them out.

What I have used before:
1. Stock Akko ASA profile keycaps that come with the PC75B. Surface is too small.
2. Cheap OEM profile, those RM10 - RM20 type.
3. GMK Clone, market as cherry profile, but received as OEM profile. RM 80
4. Mickey XDA profile. RM170.

Thanks.

I never thought of them. In my mind I always equate Akko with ASA profile, my bad.
Thanks for the input

Thanks very much for your input, I saw shenpo previously in your previous post. I will start with that.

I'm currently daily driving a Akko PC75B Plus 75% KB. It is quite a nice one and being tinkering with it slowly over the pass few months whenever I have the time for it, like testing some other tactiles switches, lubing those Akko Jelly purples, tape mode, case foam...etc... Recently I made the time to rectify the ticking sound of the stabs. I solved the issue with the holee mod using those cloth plaster.

I have also a Fuhlen TKL blue clicky switch that is annoying to my family member whenever I'm using it. lolx.

In the office I'm just using a full size tecware phantom keyboard that I lubed and film those Outemu brown during MCO. This can be thought of as my first real experience of "modding" a mechanical keyboard. Ever since this experience, I have been reading and watching material regrading this mechanical keyboard hobby.

I have tried using a couple of KB sizes like 60%, 75%, TKL and the full size for my daily routine and have come to like the size and layout of the TKL.
Currently I'm trying to get a good metal case TKL keyboard to play around with as I have never used a metal case before.

I was thinking if it is good to start at a lower tier KB like the Monsgeek M3 or dircetly buying a more expensive KB something like the Geon Frog TKL/Glacier80. Totally no idea here as I do not know if the difference in price does translate to a noticeable difference in the quality, sound, typing feel etc that would justify it. I don't really care for the aesthetic if it does not contribute to the sound/feel/functionality of the keyboard.

Anyone has any thoughts on this? Would really appreciate any help here.

Sorry for the long post above.

Why I even consider to get a >RM1K KB is I would not want to "waste" additional money to get a entry level metal KB like the m3 if there is a significant difference by stepping up to a higher end KB.
I'm planning to get a custom TKL to daily use it and tinker with it as I go along.

I'm trying to ask you guys here as you guys do have more experience in comparing lower vs higher end KBs. My curiousness comes from if the additional cost of a "higher" end KB is due tot he aesthetics, rather then the typing feel, sound. Like putting a very nice engraving on the bottom of the KB or even on the inside of the KB is not important to me.

I equate it to a something like, when you have not use a OLED monitor, you will feel that a IPS LCD monitor is really good coming from a previous TN panel.
But if you have the budget to get a OLED monitor, you would not need to waste additional money first by getting a IPS LCD monitor.

In this example, the additional cost of the OLED monitor is does produce a significant visual improvement that would "justify" it.

I saw people recommending using milmax 0305 to make those soldered only PCB to a hotswappable PCB

Where did you get those colored springs, from Taobao?

Generally I see people recommending using TX stabs as well. I recently bought a FLCMMK stabs in shopee that was advertised as no holee mod needed. After using it, I found out it is not true and I did have to do the holee mod to get rid of the ticking.

Thats the thing. I did use the stick tapes to prevent the housing from even slight wobble, it stills tick. I thought it was the wire is not balance, but it is not. Finally I just did the holee mod and it solves it. That goes without saying that lubing the stabs is a must. I just use 205 on the wire and the housing internals like what is normally shown on youtube. lolx.

But that ticking once u notice it, it is very annoying. lol. Initially I did not want to take the stabs out to fix it, but finally gave in as it is just too annoying. lol

But probably it is my plate that is not good since from your experience FL-cmmk stabs do not need any mod. I will keep that in mind.

I totally agree with that stabilizer tuning. This long keys that are wobbly and annoying are the worst.
And selecting a switch for the long keys to get the sound and feel you like also take some time.

I see that normally the long keys will use a diff switch vs the alphas as when I'm using the same switch, the long key will produce a sound that is so different vs the alpha that I feel is a bit annoying.

I saw some guides also recommending just squeezing in those dielectric grease into the stabs. But it just look so "messy".
But saying that I do believe that the grease method does work as the grease definitely will cushion the wire in the housing and prevent wire knocking around the housing.
But I just prefer to keep it as clean as possible if I can help it.

Probably I should get some dielectric grease to try if I can tahan the messiness.... lolx

Just wanted to ask you, do you prefer tactile or linear?