Now in a dilemma on purchasing new brake pads. Currently using textar brake pads but it's getting thin probably need to be replace in the coming months.

Textar
- Good grip
- Very dusty, but it doesn't rust
- Doesn't wear the rotors that much

Prior to this I replaced the rears with semi-metallic

CENTRIC C-TEK Ceramics
- Weak grip
- No dust
- No issues on rotors yet

Now I have a choice of getting:

> TRW COTEC
> Textar
> Jurid
> Ferodo (NOS)
> Meyle
> Mintye
> Bendix Euro+
> LPB Brakes

All are within the same price range, except Ferodo & LPB which is 30% cheaper than the rest. I don't really care that much about dust. Braking grip is most important to me anyways. Just want to know other's opinion before I pull the plug, especially those that tried them before.

Bendix metal king

MK Kashiyama

Akebono

Good grip, less dust

What car are you driving now?

I always recommend Akebono if you want original brake pad feel. Furthermore, this pad is quiet and very very low dust.

Bendix Metal King although has stronger braking power, it however will wear your disc rotor faster because Metal King pads have metal residue embedded in its pads to get the stronger braking power.

If got more budget get green stufff

Trw cz it resolved my juddering issue for Honda Stock brakpad. Stock pad sux quality but conti price, rm700/pair

Who ask you to change at SC? Can get less than 200 outside.

never change the pad there, got price quotation and suprise. even costlier than a C-Class brake pad. claim warranty cz juddering, get foc skim disc, then straight buy an aftermarket pad and change at regular workshop

Don't have stock for my car I think

w124


Need to buy from teh US





>EBC
>Budget

haihh

Thanks,
You used DTEC or ATEC line?

200?

TRW ATEC line can setel for rm100 for accord

I would run away ady, unless under warranty I replace lah

Don't go for ferodo, it is very low dust and protect your rotor very well, but it almost have no grip at all once the pad is at higher temperature

Brembo is slightly better than ori brake pad, but don't expect it perform like the high end brembo pad, for normal driving is ok but not for extreme use, even during genting downhill can feel the pad performance degrade once it heat up

You can try look for Remsa pad, previously I use that and it is quiet good in stopping power

Ebc green and black is not that expensive compared to red and yellow

For my Mazda 3 2014 I can get ebc green or black at price cheaper than or close to price of ori pad from sc

Brembo is close to double to the ones I've listed
Only planning to use the car for a year

Best is always Ori, even if same brand, the formulation is different

EBC's are kinda on the expensive side as well. Rather get OEM Jurid/Textar at that price

DTEC those come in red colour. Rm200 or less for a pair, rear rm170/pair

That's great since the TRW COTEC is on a higher line than the DTEC iinm.
Cost like rm100 for my car though


The DTEC doesn't accumulate dust or squeals is it?

the DTEC pads are quite dusty & have sub par grip. brembo oe replacement pads are less dutsy & have better grip than the trw dtec ones.

try EBC yellow stuff. those has superb grip albeit producing a lot of dust. using it right now on my Mazda 6.

This post has been edited by amscouzach57: Apr 24 2022, 01:48 PM

Only found green stuff for my calipers, and those also are rm300

Ori is not the best, it is just made to be enough for daily usage, unless you are buying a race/sport car
And of course ori is not enough for my usage since I go to track and auto cross

It seems like you already have your answer, if you want cheap then just go for the cheapest one it won't be much difference on normal road until the pad reached high enough temp or high speed braking

Have you tried trestor? Local brand and priced relatively low price but not sure if they have it for your car

Just daily drive with occasional highway cruise only
For trestor advantage but will keep it in mind for other cars
Priced twice as much as other brands I mentioned

Since you got budget for ebc, I recommend akebono pro-act, superb grip and very less dust. I've tested on genting uphill and ulu yam downhill, drive aggressively for my standard, no brake fade on my Mazda 6.

only euro pads available for my car

Can only find the ones for the model with handbrakes in Malaysia.

The ones for the model with EPB is not available here.

Ooo german kar
That MK K very famous for Jap mfg spec pads

My next car gonna be ploton

Brembo pad too many non genuine on market. Any sellers you suggest for genuine, online?

No idea on dust but so far tolerable, usually only get it wash every fortnight. Smooth brake sound on my pad, Trw. Reason wise, cheap, no juddering issue on heavy brake.

Stock Honda pad made in Thai always make the steering vibrates especially at Karak highway

i get it online, it has a QR code for you to check

the price is cheap probably because it is made locally or in neighbor country instead of italy

for the price vs performance, i wont say it is fake but it is not meant for extreme/track driving since it is just for oem replacement at a budget

i rather buy brake pad from china which has more performance pads to choose from

Proton stock pads are metal. Can see shiny-shiny sintered material inside, but dunno is iron or copper. 100k km makan disc but once a while wash with water rinse off black dust and drive the disc so far flat and no ugly grooves.

I'm wondering why other cars use ceramic or organic pads?

Honda, Mazda, Toyota (non performance model) using ceramic pads repacked from Akebono or Advics from factory.

Proton & Perodua alat ganti tulen from Mintye (local models) Brake pads in new cars for Proton /Perodua from factory are usually better quality than alat ganti tulen.

Most if not all conti cars are using semi metalic from factory and OEM. There are aftermarket ceramic brake pad (not confuse with ceramic disc) but are not recommended by manufacturer.

For W124, use oiginal MB pads which is available from MB stockist. Original MB pads are supplied with new brake hardware such as clips. For rear, can use other brand pads, but for front highly recommend to stick to ori.

This post has been edited by mot88: Apr 25 2022, 11:54 AM

combined

This post has been edited by mot88: Apr 25 2022, 11:48 AM

Is it possible the Proton CFE models use Bosch metallic pads? Old posts got say is TRW Proton. But, things can change also, noticed some parts from Proton SC also change brand over the years. I think now using Ultrex ceramic on rear, front might be Bosch metallic.

Not surprise for Proton performance model (turbo), better pad is used. Bosch is not that good either. Used Bosch PowerPlus and its noisy and grip not that fantastic. Nothing beats Trestor Advantage for local model for best bang for bucks but dusty and noise when first 2 pedal presses in the morning.

This post has been edited by mot88: Apr 25 2022, 12:57 PM

The only ori ones I find are NOS
even at Suan Huat they have girling OEMs

Oh thanks. The first 2 pedal press is it to get rid of surface rust in the morning? Sometimes if release handbrake and move the car, can hear 'thng' sound when the brake pad releases from the disk.

yes, no issue. more so of this event after a car wash and let it dry overnight, will get this surface rust.

Ooh w124,last time i use this model for 10 years. So many brands i experiment already. Brands that i used before Trestor green,Trestor advantage,Mintye,Bosch semi metallic and Textar. Among all the model the highest grip frictions is Trestor Advantage but very dusty and finish fast. Second best grip is Textar yellow box.

Bro,
For City, would you recommend Akebono or Nissin? As I'm not based in KV now, do you know any good online seller?

Both brands are good but Akebono is cheaper and works great... Quiet, no noise and very low dust.

You can just get it from any Shopee sellers as long as it fits your car model.

Pardon my ignorance, but isn't low dust = more abrasive? Will it wear out rotors fast?

Low dust means less abrasive.

Anyone can recommended shop that do refurbish original brake?

Alot of shop pass replica as original at cheaper price

Because its impossible to tell the item is fake/replica unless you know what you looking for or have side to side comparison

You mean rebuilding the existing brake caliper on your car or something else entirely?

Brake caliper taken out from other cars

I think there was one in YouTube iinm

All these while I got it at below 100.honda City GM6. Last purchase nov 2021, Rm96

TRW Dtec

Hi, any recommendation brake pad for Mazda 2 Skyactiv?
Sent to SC and found out that brake pad is worn out and require to skim the disc. Any store i can purchase the brake pad and reliable workshop i can send to?

Can just buy online
And least state your location

Hihi. Which brand is better? TRW Ceramic or Bendix General CT?
My location is at Shah Alam.

TRW Ceramic better

Topup abit for Bendix Metal King. Mah Grab driver says it was great for him because last longest. He drove a Myvi tho

But Boy96 says not great for touge

Im ok with TRW red brake pad believe ceramic. As it miles better than stock Honda pad, affordable, SC cost about rm700/pair. TRW rm180/pair, and no more brake juddering issue as per stock sc pad

This post has been edited by ayamxxx: Jul 20 2022, 02:44 PM

-Great, I'll opt for TRW then, price range around 170-180, just checked from Shopee.
Will send to workshop this weekend which will cost me another RM100 to change the brake pad. hehe

Used to be rm60 to change all 4 pad at my regular workshop

Currently im using Trestor green brake pad ok ah not bad

That one local right?

Green was metallic or organic?

Since I been dissapointed by Ultrex 680c.
Anyone tried Bendix Ultimate and Trestor Advantage?
I'm trying to exhausted brake pad selection before changing brake kit.

Do you need bendix ultimate if not metal king is suffice. Make sure you or mechanic used their bendix grease on the back pad and do proper brake with abs fluid flush for maximum experience with stopping power feel

Brake kit = brake hardware or the caliper itself?

big caliper & big rotor all

ultrex cannot. metal king titanium cannot

high speed full stop did u approved ?

i am generally very picky with my brakes.. i dont like to swap calipers so i end up testing alot of the pads in the market.. so far the best one i got for my suprima is the Bendix ultimate. It bites hard. I've used TRW d tec, utter crap, brembo aftermarket boleh la. but all these are not even as good as the stock pads. so far Ultimate works best for aftermarket stuff. Great pedal feel with em too. however i will let u know in advance they really chew on the disc and they wear pretty quick. Every 2 pads i chuck my disc because i dont like the feel of skimmed disc.. if you are as sensitive you will know what i am talking about with skimmed disc, they feel somewhat slipery when the pads bite. I also abs bleed my system yearly either with dot 4 or dot 5.1 fluid.

Metal King still fade easily under my usage.
I use bendix grease on pins and back of the pads, even flushed every 2 years or before any track event.
Unless is bendix MKT from australia, is a bit different formulation. Which is I can't get it anymore.

Bigger brake kit, trying to avoid it, to minimise unsprung weight.

Chew on disc is a normal thing to go through on harsh compound pad.
But thank god, Saga BLM disc a set is about same price as skimming.
Unless I go for slotted disc, then is a different story.

So I guess from initial bite is good, hows the fade? Say on a downhill touge.

If this doesn't work, I guess swapping to bigger brake is the only way.

i never really drive hard downhill.. on regular drives downhill on genting and etc is fine especially the suprima being a pretty heavy car. if you plan to run high speed down hill then regular aftermarket brake pads wont cut it. You will need something with much higher temp ratings. 650c and above. prepare to fork out a much larger sum once you enter this category of pads. affordability is one, then there is availability problem as well. if your car is a popular enough car that people track often then shouldnt be a problem.

Does this classed as a refurbishment too ??

hanky panky aside, brake pad materials and friction pad materials are very hazardous to health. those fellas use zero protective gear.. probably dont realise how harmful those materials are and get paid min wage while some big boss reap in the profits for these "recond" pads

Need to replace brake fluid with hi-temp one as well
Not to mention upgrading rubber brake lines to steel braided ones

I just changed my pads to Bendix general CT. It's squeaking when I press my brakes hard. Is it normal?

Need to bed in the brakes properly
Other than that, the person that changed it may not put grease on the backing plate

Nah. He did apply grease on the back plate haha. Guess need to wait for break in

Break in should be done by the shop tho
You can do it yourself, just need a quiet stretch of road

true, dot 5.1 will work.. as for brake lines rubber will work fine. for added pedal feel and feedback cant beat the braided lines.

ive never used the ct series. i've used the titanium on my older cars way back then. These pads have metal particles. sometimes you do get some squeal. Although you do not need to bead them in, i generally bed all my pads in when i replace em just for that added satisfaction that it may help in the long run. Problem with the metallic based pads is sometimes using new pads with a used disc does generate some harmonics annoying i know but cant be helped. If u havent bedded em in you can try that. also check if ur disc is worn down to a point there is a ridge on the the edge, that too will cause a squeal

If car manual says Dot3, we can go dot4 & 5?

Ehhh, DOT4 is the maximum I'd go
5 should be 5.1 since 5 is not glycol based iinm

Ever tried Dixcel Extra Speed (ES)? They are 600°C rated pads.

DOT3, DOT4 & DOT5.1 are compatible.

Never go below the minimum manufacturer's requirement

Ohh ok
I normally change every 4-5 yrs, too long?
Most manufacturers would recommend 2 yrs, but i think not necessarily so frequent la

Touch wood, so far no problem

I heard higher numbers basically need to change more frequently cause it absorb moisture more

I usually torture test brake pad to make sure their are up to task, is just a good feeling to know they work as they rated.
No way I can find 650c (that is properly rated) for Saga BLM. Bendix Ultimate is last choice before I make any brake upgrade.

Check the following in order,
-Bedding in of pads
-Disc is evenly worn (no lips on outer edge for pads to rub on)
-Pads shim
-Apply anti squeal on rear of pads
-Check caliper hardware

Anually should be best ekceli.
flushing brake fluid isn't that hard to do ownself.

Newer cars are harder though, you need to connect to a computer to do it properly (contis) dunno about japs

Using computer makes it easier, but not compulsory. You can still do it manually if needed.

It's just manufacturer wanting to standardize the process so service centers can just plug the car in and the software does the rest.

if you want to bleed the abs pump as well need the ob2 comp tho

Really??
All of the few cars i hv used before, never do so frequent
My brother vios, even the toyota service center never ask to change, almost 3-4 yrs

What the heck.




proton & perodua are ~ every 2 years tho

Thanks man. I will get a second opinion from another workshop

Ic
Means standard should be 2 yrs, then 3yrs or so should be ok since manufacturers service centre usually ask to service more frequently to make more money
Somehow the centre i go, so nice dint request to change, but maybe cause low mileage usage

Brakes aren't not just mileage lah

they absorbed water from the air and decreases it's boiling point.
Also, if you don't bleed it annually, might cause the brakes to be abit spongy

bleeding=/=fluid flush

bleed is reducing air bubble rite

Allright, workshop this weekend it is

You can also check whether you brake fluid looks clear, yellow or shrek's piss

i change mine every year.. simply because i drive hard alot and i do not want moisture in the system for too long. Thats how rust forms and brake caliper seizing happens