my latest problem

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tNe5bdpHJ7A

looks like my SID a bit bengong

This post has been edited by diadokmai: Dec 7 2013, 08:31 PM

deleted

This post has been edited by ldhong: Dec 7 2013, 05:53 PM

My SID problem - Now No problem

just fuel up my preve cfe full tank.
after re-start the car

its come back to normal.

This post has been edited by diadokmai: Dec 8 2013, 10:04 PM

Told you it will be alright Most important thing is the fuel meter not bengong. If that kaput, then you are in trouble.

Car = Proton Waja 2001 (Mitsubishi Engine)

Problem = Engine jerking very badly but car still can move. Very under powered. It comes off and on as it likes. Once the engine light goes on, it shakes non-stop...

Anyone has any idea what are the cause or faced this problem before? Have went to mechanic several times and had changed the spark plug coil, distributor and even tuning of electrical board. The problem kept occurring after that. I don't want to go to workshop again, spent a lump sum $$ and unresolved problem. Not affordable to change new car currently.. TQ.. =)

Have you change your fuel pump or fuel pump relay before? Waja is very infamous for fuel pump problem. Also check your fuel filter and have your throttlebody cleaned.

Ok. I will try that and see if it works... thanks a lot for the prompt response.. =)

yessz
ty

My Saga LMST (year 2007) has been sucking up the fuel like a thirsty bear recently. The problem came after the engine started to 'buat hal'. After switch off, the engine would not stop immediately, instead shake for few more seconds only stop. From then on, fuel consumption became very high, from 14km/L to 8km/L. Switched from Shell to Caltex, and sent the car to workshop, service and tuning auto choke, everything back to normal with slightly high rpm, and fuel consumption for the recent tank is 11.4km/L.

I have few concerns:
1) Is 11.4km/L consider ok? 90% city drive. I don't want to sound silly to go back to the workshop, though if the high rpm persist I might need to send back.
2) The fuel capacity for LMST is 45 L right? There's one time I refuel, the fuel insert until 45.12L but the gun didn't stop or anything! I suspect it's the gun's problem. That tank only lasted me 430km (before repair)

1) manual or auto? engine capacity? (1.3 or 1.5) carburetor or fuel injection?
high rpm will definitely consume more fuel, if carb, you can consider tuning the idle yourself via guide from saga/iswara thread or google image.
auto idle is ~850-900 while manual is ~800-850

2) yes, that is correct. if you suspect is the gun issue, consider changing other stations. also the 45liters is only the tank, and the minor "overfill" could possibly be the tubes/passageway. btw, did it spill out from the fuel port?

for your references, this is my FC: http://www.fuelly.com/driver/quazacolt/saga
so in *my opinion* you actually have damn good FC

---- sorry it's duplicate -----

This post has been edited by Huey_nee: Dec 11 2013, 11:00 AM

1) manual, 1.3, don't know
the manual tuning seems challenging though I'm interested to try but I park my car outside both at work and at home, might ask for tuning at the workshop

2) No, it did not overflow and spill out, that's why it freaks the hell out of me.

Thanks for the reply Ever since the first RM50 fuel couldn't last me til 300km I got paranoid and confused

you're welcome. for accurate FC, best if you use something like fuelly.com to track FC

exora bold.
jan 2012 model.
the rear view camera seems to be deteriorating in terms of view-ability.
how do i overcome this?

persona... got brake switch problem... changed brake switch twice..


problem showing as engine problem + redlight onn all the time at back

Saga LMST currently have over heating issue, last time (2months ago)one day found out temp reach 5 bar without stressing the engine, found fan is spinning only that it didn't spin when reach 4 bar, and sometimes it spins, and never reach above. ( when fan can spin car temp will drop down )

Changed the radiator switch, changed new coolant and things were ok, but after few weeks still got same problem, but occasionaly, i restart the engine at roadside or idling to ensure the fan will "kick in", quite often when car is running from cold. Most of the time no problem

These few days like back to square one, i even let the car idle and observed the fan only kicked in after temp bar raise till 5-6bar. When the fan starts spinning, i know its ok, restarted engine and saw the temp bar at 3 straight away... i not sure if the temperature gauge is faulty or what.

Gonna send it to SC 2morro again

This post has been edited by hawk1lo: Jan 10 2014, 08:24 PM

Does this happen when your lights are on?

Does this happen when your lights are on?

1. 11.4km/L is good on a 1.3 (underpowered) manual in the city. I would love to know how you used to get 14km/L. That is really good for the 1.3. the 1.5 magma iswaras can do that with no problem. But the 1.3 is severely underpowered thus making good consumption hard to achieve.

2. On a totally dry tank, you should be able to squeeze in like 46L++. The tank may be 45. But you got your filling port and piping etc. That more than a liter right there.

Notes:
Car still running after you swith off your key means your engine is self combusting the fuel. That could happen under 4 scenarios.
1. Your compression ratio is too high (not possible)
2. Your engine is too hot (is your cooling system working?)
3. You got contaminated fuel in your tank (think kerosene etc) - most likely
4. Your spark plugs are so fouled and carbonized that they have become glow plugs of sorts providing a combustion source even when the spark has been cut off. (when did you last change your sparkplugs? are you losing engine oil?)

Petrol engines use spark plugs to combust each stroke as the compression ratio does not allow the fuel-air mixture to reach self combustion conditions (diesel engines do this...they do not have spark plugs)

The 1.3 manual is a carburatted engine. All carburatted engines have a little reservoir of fuel in the carburettor. So if your engine keeps combusting on each stroke even when the key is turned off (no more spark plugs, fuel cut-off solenoid is closed) the engine will keep running and sucking in fuel from this tiny reservoir until it is dry.

They shop may have said its the auto choke. I have heard of this before. But usually you have to change the bimetallic strips if the autochoke goes bust.

Have the engine advance checked. It usually doesnt run out but having it checked out every 50,000km is a good practice. If this is out, your consumption will be quite significantly affected.

This post has been edited by neosaint99: Jan 18 2014, 11:23 PM

Wow thanks for the thorough and detailed info!

It was the good old days when the car age was below 3 years old, then after it entered 3-4 years the consumption has increased.

The problem has been solved for now (finger crossed), after the auto choke service and tuning, the FC has slowly improved and maintain at 10~12km/L.

- the cooling system works perfectly.
- I checked with the SC taukeh. They said the fuel in some of the petrol stations here in Kangar is contaminated with kerosene, but since I never use those stations' fuel, he was clueless also what led to the problem, so he sorted to tuning the auto choke.
- spark plugs were changed on June, another 3000km to go for next change (I was told to change spark plugs every 10,000 km, is that correct?). Losing engine oil, u mean leaking? There's no leaking so far.

Yeah I get a second opinion from the other shop too about the auto choke issue. But the boss also say if the tuning can solve the problem, then there's nothing much to be worry about, unless the problem persists, which means more repairs and more $$$. I've been wanting to have an advanced checking on the engine but it's hard to find a SC providing this service (and reliable) since I'm now in a very small town.