I checked on Reddit and it is quite common they say. It happens on certain RGB colors only. Some are low hissing, some are high

as soft as Gateron white switch, slightly firm.

Switches and soldering tools arrived few days ago, soldered new switches in, works okay...

The older switches which i suspect have double click actually is fine, i used greases, and carefully put on four corners of the housing, and some thin layer on the actuator, and carefully not touching the contact pins... and soldered back in, and it's been very responsive like when it's new.

The keyboard now works fine.

I experienced de-soldering and solder it back with everyone who helped giving me tips and guidance , and now i am not that nervous , and surprisingly it's pretty easy.

the switches :
https://shopee.com.my/product/135044210/2577910491

- the switches quality looks totally legit, with different plastic texture compared to factory switches, but they are 100% identical with G Logo and omron logo, no defects of any sort.








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oh ok. if it's the root cause, just turn it off if you really cannot stand it.

ok

nice

now you know why veterans always ask us to learn soldering and desoldering.

Do switches need greases? is it key chattering due to dried up greases over the years?

I lubed with automotive greases on ' double registering switches ' and it's back to okay again... so, the switches are actually faulty or just need lubing?

I dissembled the new switches i bought from china and there's seems to be some transparent greases on the actuator... so it must be when over the years, the greases will gone from all the pressings?

I read about the terms ' lubing the switches ' for cherry switches, does that also to all switches of all makes? like Outemu, Cherry, romer-g, Gatereon?

This post has been edited by StuartLee2015: Jul 31 2020, 03:45 PM

normally, stock switches are pre-lubed at factory. however, the amount is minimal, and only covers few areas in a switch.

key chattering is not really due to the absence of lube, but the presence of dust.

yes, we do lube our switches to have better typing experience. (sound and feel) it's one of basic modifications that can apply to all switches. techniques and lube used depend on switch type, and own preferences.

I see.... i opened, the lube is thin and only cover the actuators, the side housing where the friction is none.

right

that's why lubing them properly with the right lube will give relatively better experience compared to stock.

7I used the automotive one, should be okay right?

it feels nice though... i can't feel friction. is there special lube/grease for mechanical switches?

it's not ok if it's petroleum-based. it might melt plastic parts in a switch. use plastic-safe type.

after testing out a number of them, i stick to krytox gpl series for switches and stabilizers, mainly because of its quality consistency and very long shelf life. (more than 10 years)

I stored the grease in a plastic container, it looks okay though..... How to tell if it's petrolueum-based?



This post has been edited by StuartLee2015: Aug 1 2020, 12:45 PM

Heads up!
https://flashquark.com/product/genuine-cher...ed-stabilizers/

you should be able to get information from its specifications printed on the container, or just look it up online.

lol... i got a bit from a car workshop, store it some transparent container... it's green... i remember that the guy say that grease can withstand high temperature, etc etc.

i applied on many plastics before, it doesn't look it corrodes the plastic , so i guess it's safe.

haha ok then.

as long as it's plastic-safe then it's good, or else you will go through the whole process of replacing all lubed switches when shit happens.

Okay... it should be good for many years.

sweet

mkb modding is basically a process of learning and experimenting to achieve better outcomes in terms of typing experience.

once you have enough of basics, it's up to you to plan for builds that you wanna have, or just stick to what you have, and make it closest to own expectations.

Spent an afternoon modding and for once nothing went wrong lol.

First goal was to get the Navy on Lock duty.


Curious thing I discovered is that the center "pin" of Kailh box navies don't go in very far.


The Kailh is the switch that hasn't been soldered. And as you can see from the clean holes, my desoldering iron is working like magic once again. I think for some reason it doesn't like the KPrepublic PCBs? No problem desoldering my IKBC with either lead free solder or my generic 63/37 solder. Curiouser and curiouser.

Second goal was to undo my band aid mods. Some keys were sticking and slow to return.


Interestingly not long ago, Taeha Types said in a Twitch stream that he no longer does this mod. Maybe his clients also had the same issues?

And while my stabs were out, I wanted to add some cloth tape on the ends of the wire. I thought I had cloth tape at home but it turns out I didn't. So I used PTFE tape instead. It's not "secured" in any way. I hope I don't regret it in a few weeks....




And lastly, this is how I got around to removing my spacebar stab with the foam in place.

any local gateron switch keyboards available?

about stabilizer band-aid mod, i use ptfe tape instead of lubed fabric band-aid, because i want a clean, not mushy, feel when i bottom out.

for wire tip band-aid mod, it's better to test the outcomes first. this is because if the tap is too thick it will cause mushiness. i am still experimenting with heat shrink mod. a shorter (5mm) tube will get rid of mushiness, but somehow ticking sound comes back. will adjust the location of shrinks on the tips to see if it helps.

glad to see more people are modifying their boards. it's really worth the efforts