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 Kitchen Cabinet V4 (Heart of the House)

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gordonchin
post Apr 16 2021, 10:51 PM

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QUOTE(xAmdx @ Apr 12 2021, 12:01 PM)
No, the KC maker will be able to wrap either plywood or melamine with the wood grain color you choose.

But usually, inside the carcass, they will choose white color and the door is depending what pattern you choose right?
*
I was told by cabinet maker that the melamine comes pre-wrapped. And only plywood is done by themselves.
So the melamine would not match the plywood since they are not from the same source
satz
post Apr 21 2021, 03:26 PM

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Hello everyone,

currently still thinking whether to go for melamine / aluminum kitchen cabinet. Landed house.

for melamine based, i saw this vendor: (their design is really beautiful)
https://www.facebook.com/finiziokitchenwardrobe

While for aluminum, this vendor seems to be cheap enough:
https://www.facebook.com/classykitchenfurniturejb


anyone has any idea or review about them?


PrincipaliteY
post Apr 22 2021, 12:23 PM

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hi all sifus, this is my first time here.
wanted to know if anyone ever engaged with this company :

Homod Sdn Bhd

they claim to use :
E1 grade board (EU low formaldehyde emission safety standard)
V313 grade board (probably better grade of HMR chipboard)
fully ABS edging on boards
Homod Compact top (no search result but I believe it is an KompacPlus equivalent top)

My question are :
1) Anyone engaged with this company before and would advise against them?
2) Anyone used these materials before but would advise against using them?

Thank you all sifus

joeblow
post Apr 22 2021, 04:27 PM

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QUOTE(GameFr3ak @ Mar 17 2021, 05:33 PM)
Possibly moving in to a new house. It's a barebone unit so I need to do extensive renovation. For kitchen, I previously had a local contractor but the experience has been pretty disappointing. Scratches like mad, laminate peeling, cabinets not shutting flush.

On my second property, I opted for Ikea. The experience was much straight forward and everything was itemized nicely. Spent a day to submit design, spent another day for their contractor to install. Done in 2 days, very painless. Rust marks on their stainless steel panels? A few calls and they sent someone to replace them. No problems at all for the rest, long lasting.

So this new property, I'm wondering if I should again opt for Ikea. I've been told that outside contractors are cheaper but are they really that much cheaper? And is there any renovation companies that provides 25 years warranty?
*
Did you get Ikea to come to take measurement or you did it yourself? I was quoted roughly 15 to 20k for the wet and dry ktichen. BTW Ikea may claim 25 years warranty, but if you read the terms to it, pretty much hard to claim since they don't cover wear and tear.

For my new house I am waiting for ID quotation and also maybe will go for Classic aluminum one. Also Ikea is under considering if everyone quotes me above 20k.
Spetre
post Apr 22 2021, 09:24 PM

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anyone need free quotation for your new kitchen or wardrobe?

dont hesitate to pm me or whatsapp me , thanks


GameFr3ak
post Apr 22 2021, 10:53 PM

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QUOTE(joeblow @ Apr 22 2021, 04:27 PM)
Did you get Ikea to come to take measurement or you did it yourself? I was quoted roughly 15 to 20k for the wet and dry ktichen. BTW Ikea may claim 25 years warranty, but if you read the terms to it, pretty much hard to claim since they don't cover wear and tear.

For my new house I am waiting for ID quotation and also maybe will go for Classic aluminum one. Also Ikea is under considering if everyone quotes me above 20k.
*
I got them to send someone over to take measurement.. it's the safest way since I don't know how to measure everything... Honestly, wear and tear is a bit broad. Like my aluminium panels were supposedly rust proof but due to my normal wear and tear, I think the insides were exposed. Hence it's rusting. So I reported the issue and guess what.. they send someone and replaced the panels with rusts.... Do you know any ID contractor that will layan this kind of request?
apalexar
post Apr 23 2021, 08:48 AM

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QUOTE(joeblow @ Apr 22 2021, 04:27 PM)
Did you get Ikea to come to take measurement or you did it yourself? I was quoted roughly 15 to 20k for the wet and dry ktichen. BTW Ikea may claim 25 years warranty, but if you read the terms to it, pretty much hard to claim since they don't cover wear and tear.

For my new house I am waiting for ID quotation and also maybe will go for Classic aluminum one. Also Ikea is under considering if everyone quotes me above 20k.
*
Ikea offer aluminium cabinet as well? hmm.gif

QUOTE(GameFr3ak @ Apr 22 2021, 10:53 PM)
I got them to send someone over to take measurement.. it's the safest way since I don't know how to measure everything... Honestly, wear and tear is a bit broad. Like my aluminium panels were supposedly rust proof but due to my normal wear and tear, I think the insides were exposed. Hence it's rusting. So I reported the issue and guess what.. they send someone and replaced the panels with rusts.... Do you know any ID contractor that will layan this kind of request?
*
Fully aluminium will never get rusty even wear and tear, got mine with lifetime warranty from my KC maker.
SUSceo684
post Apr 23 2021, 02:50 PM

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QUOTE(apalexar @ Apr 23 2021, 08:48 AM)
Ikea offer aluminium cabinet as well? hmm.gif
Fully aluminium will never get rusty even wear and tear, got mine with lifetime warranty from my KC maker.
*
Fully alu (alu already "rusted" on the surface aka "oxidised" in normal condition) so it will not rust any further, as what you see is already Al₂O₃ (aluminum oxide) on the surface.
It can still be subject to corrosion if the surface film is removed through strong acid/alkali. Just like 10-year old unopened soft drink cans self-destruct devil.gif

https://www.kloecknermetals.com/blog/alumin...sion-resistant/

This post has been edited by ceo684: Apr 23 2021, 02:54 PM
apalexar
post Apr 23 2021, 04:19 PM

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QUOTE(ceo684 @ Apr 23 2021, 02:50 PM)
Fully alu (alu already "rusted" on the surface aka "oxidised" in normal condition) so it will not rust any further, as what you see is already Al₂O₃ (aluminum oxide) on the surface.
It can still be subject to corrosion if the surface film is removed through strong acid/alkali. Just like 10-year old unopened soft drink cans self-destruct devil.gif

https://www.kloecknermetals.com/blog/alumin...sion-resistant/
*
Strong acid/alkali is not normal wear and tear devil.gif
chilskater
post May 2 2021, 03:28 PM

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how tall is cooker hood from table top? 90cm?how tall is wall cabinet from table top?2'5"
Zavia/GenX
post May 5 2021, 03:00 PM

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I need my kitchen counter top changed (sink and frame/door is ok), only like 74"x24" x2 pcs.

Are there contractors who would take such a small job? Anyone can recommend one for Subang Jaya?

Thinking of getting a budget stone type top, cos the existing is sagging due to water damage cos tenants tak jaga.
tony_mw
post May 5 2021, 04:59 PM

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Hey sifu-sifu, i’ve have a noob question here. Can we put quartz / terrazzo slab on top of concrete kitchen instead of apply tiles?

If its possible, do we need to let the contractor(who build my concrete kitchen) know in advance so he can make the concrete base slimmer? If yes, what would be the best thickness for the concrete base?

My concern here is if the concrete base is build at average thickness, will the final kitchentop will turn out very thick after put on the quartz / terrazzo slabs confused.gif

Feel free to share any information to me if you had this experience before. Thanks notworthy.gif

SUSceo684
post May 6 2021, 12:22 AM

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QUOTE(tony_mw @ May 5 2021, 04:59 PM)
Hey sifu-sifu, i’ve have a noob question here. Can we put quartz / terrazzo slab on top of concrete kitchen instead of apply tiles?

If its possible, do we need to let the contractor(who build my concrete kitchen) know in advance so he can make the concrete base slimmer? If yes, what would be the best thickness for the concrete base?

My concern here is if the concrete base is build at average thickness, will the final kitchentop will turn out very thick after put on the quartz / terrazzo slabs :confused:

Feel free to share any information to me if you had this experience before. Thanks  notworthy.gif
*
Normally concrete still need that 2 or 3 in thickness unless very well reinforced to the wall.
cdspins
post May 6 2021, 12:32 AM

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QUOTE(tony_mw @ May 5 2021, 04:59 PM)
Hey sifu-sifu, i’ve have a noob question here. Can we put quartz / terrazzo slab on top of concrete kitchen instead of apply tiles?

If its possible, do we need to let the contractor(who build my concrete kitchen) know in advance so he can make the concrete base slimmer? If yes, what would be the best thickness for the concrete base?

My concern here is if the concrete base is build at average thickness, will the final kitchentop will turn out very thick after put on the quartz / terrazzo slabs confused.gif

Feel free to share any information to me if you had this experience before. Thanks  notworthy.gif
*
I'm not a professional, but based on my understanding you either build the concrete base with normal thickness or just forgo it and install the slab directly on the concrete column with wood or aluminum structure to support the counter top.

It a concrete base is too slim, it can not cover the steel structure and it is weak. prone to crack.

You don't need to worry about the counter top being thick, it can easily be design to edge down and cover the thickness fully.
tony_mw
post May 6 2021, 01:58 PM

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QUOTE(ceo684 @ May 6 2021, 12:22 AM)
Normally concrete still need that 2 or 3 in thickness unless very well reinforced to the wall.
*
Thanks for the info, ceo! However, it's still possible to do as the way as I was describe right? I mean put the slab on top of concrete top.
The reason why I asked so, is because both of my uncles(a electrician who works on home reno while another has quite a few reno experience ) advise me that it's better to stick with concrete kitchen+tiles instead of other carcass choices (melamine/aluminium) due to it's great lifespan but personally I dislike tiles grout line although I know I can use bigger tiles.
BTW, I'm still considering should I use Ikea Method(quite interested on their new launch bamboo front) or just stick with concrete top. Did a plan via Ikea Planner for a 15ft base cabinet+4x60cm base as island already cost around 11k without kitchentop. So before I made the decision, I wish to know what option I've right now so I can compare all of them and see which is the best bang of my buck since I still have a little bit of time now. tongue.gif

QUOTE(cdspins @ May 6 2021, 12:32 AM)
I'm not a professional, but based on my understanding you either build the concrete base with normal thickness or just forgo it and install the slab directly on the concrete column with wood or aluminum structure to support the counter top.

It a concrete base is too slim, it can not cover the steel structure and it is weak. prone to crack.

You don't need to worry about the counter top being thick, it can easily be design to edge down and cover the thickness fully.
*
Appreciate for your input, certainly ease my mind a little as I was quite worried about the thickness will kill the aesthetic!(although my plan is nowhere close to art laugh.gif ) Wondering will the slab shakes/vibrate easily when we chopping ingredient on the slab+concrete column?
SUSceo684
post May 8 2021, 01:37 AM

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QUOTE(tony_mw @ May 6 2021, 01:58 PM)
Thanks for the info, ceo! However, it's still possible to do as the way as I was describe right? I mean put the slab on top of concrete top.
The reason why I asked so, is because both of my uncles(a electrician who works on home reno while another has quite a few reno experience ) advise me that it's better to stick with concrete kitchen+tiles instead of other carcass choices (melamine/aluminium) due to it's great lifespan but personally I dislike tiles grout line although I know I can use bigger tiles.
BTW, I'm still considering should I use Ikea Method(quite interested on their new launch bamboo front) or just stick with concrete top. Did a plan via Ikea Planner for a 15ft base cabinet+4x60cm base as island already cost around 11k without kitchentop. So before I made the decision, I wish to know what option I've right now so I can compare all of them and see which is the best bang of my buck since I still have a little bit of time now.  tongue.gif
Appreciate for your input, certainly ease my mind a little as I was quite worried about the thickness will kill the aesthetic!(although my plan is nowhere close to art laugh.gif ) Wondering will the slab shakes/vibrate easily when we chopping ingredient on the slab+concrete column?
*
No offense to those concrete top users, but yes in terms of bulletproofness its pretty hardwearing and all but if the actual cabinet still melamine based it will also have same wetness issue in years to come. However to me usually concrete top is the economical solution if enduser finds those quartz or similar tops as unaffordable.

Ikea one being modular if the sink part needs replacing then it should be an easy swap.

The slab can be installed over concrete top, or brick/alu profile frame (like a nicer version of scaffolding) or even placed on top of ikea carcasses (with or without underlay plywood)..impt is to ensure something can support the slab consistently across its span..ie not just hanging at the 2 ends and whole middle part unsupported, it may fracture or crack. In other words, can buy the metod system sans countertop also and install a quartz or granite slab to lay on top. Metod give u access to Blum fittings for a fraction of price from full priced options like Hafele or Sig Kit.

This post has been edited by ceo684: May 8 2021, 01:39 AM
tony_mw
post May 10 2021, 08:20 PM

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QUOTE(ceo684 @ May 8 2021, 01:37 AM)
No offense to those concrete top users, but yes in terms of bulletproofness its pretty hardwearing and all but if the actual cabinet still melamine based it will also have same wetness issue in years to come. However to me usually concrete top is the economical solution if enduser finds those quartz or similar tops as unaffordable.

Ikea one being modular if the sink part needs replacing then it should be an easy swap.

The slab can be installed over concrete top, or brick/alu profile frame (like a nicer version of scaffolding) or even placed on top of ikea carcasses (with or without underlay plywood)..impt is to ensure something can support the slab consistently across its span..ie not just hanging at the 2 ends and whole middle part unsupported, it may fracture or crack. In other words, can buy the metod system sans countertop also and install a quartz or granite slab to lay on top. Metod give u access to Blum fittings for a fraction of price from full priced options like Hafele or Sig Kit.
*
Thank you so much for being so helpful! notworthy.gif
As for Metod system, is there a need to put a plywood in between of their 80cm base cabinets as support to the slab like what you mentioned above?
If yes, do I need to place it on every cabinets? Will Ikea installer help on this?

SUSceo684
post May 10 2021, 09:31 PM

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QUOTE(tony_mw @ May 10 2021, 08:20 PM)
Thank you so much for being so helpful!  notworthy.gif
As for Metod system, is there a need to put a plywood in between of their 80cm base cabinets as support to the slab like what you mentioned above?
If yes, do I need to place it on every cabinets? Will Ikea installer help on this?
*
Depending on the slab thickness and the edge look you're going for, the plywood underlay can be optional. 2cm quartz does not need underlayment and can be installed directly on cabinet frames. If you do this, you can't have a thick edge build-up ("thick border") and you have to raise your cabinets (common rail) so your appliances fit (if you are stuffing in a dishwasher, with no plywood padding+thick border).

If the stone slab is finger thin like 10mm then (due to its thinness) you will need the plywood padding (just like chicken rice with sad chicken portion requires cucumber underlay padding laugh.gif ). Generally the ikea acrylic custom stuff solid material also don't use plywood backing.

This post has been edited by ceo684: May 10 2021, 09:32 PM
1234_4321
post May 14 2021, 11:45 AM

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QUOTE(ceo684 @ Feb 19 2021, 02:44 PM)
Ikea kitcab (metod) should fall under mid-tier.
It is not the cheapest outfit, but for a midtier solution the value you get from it is pretty good (fully featured 8ft for <7k all in) without having to pay 20-30k for a 8ft kitchen.
Depending on what are the nice-to-haves and must-haves the price variation between options can save a few hundred bucks.
e.g. basic door 20/30, fancier handleless door 100+
e.g. basic sink 265, fancier sinks can be 570-1200

Comparing 8ft size kitcab works below for a feel of what my neighbours also signed up for:

0. Cheapest bargain basement 2400-3000
1. 4800 for unprofessional vendor excl.gif
2. About low 5k; adjusted based on pfr cost to 8ft (/9.5*8)
3. My own self-installed Ikea kitcab 6100 (full bottom drawers, w/ tap and fancy sink, without the ikea lighting option)
At the other end of the spectrum will be Signature Kitchen which will probably be in the ballpark of 25-30k for a 8ft kitchen.
This is considered expensive in Msian context  laugh.gif - for a feel of the price range you can skim through https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2663554/all
*
After reading your comments, and might go for Ikea cabinet to prevent the hassle "unprofessional vendor management".
This is my first house, does Ikea providing the "Design", as well as Installation service?

Or I need to visualize and came out with my own design on what to buy, then get someone to install on behalf?
or is it easily installable by self?
kakikopiluwak
post May 15 2021, 09:27 AM

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From reading through the posts here, I think the KC companies frequently mentioned are Unity, Signature, Bespoke, IKEA and Cubix

Are there any other good solid wood KC carpenters like Cubix to recommend?

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