@fyire

do you happen to have any sites where i can view the step by step guide of painting acrylics on gundam kits?
citadel color seems to be acting differently with them as opposed to those from W40K... lol...

atleast maybe it's because i'm not too sure what even means for the 1st coat...

also... have you tried mixing in mr. hobby retarder mild to these acrylics? i seem to be getting better results than when i mix them with water for my gundam kits...

i've been testing out lining my kits and i seem to be getting good results with a technical pen... anyone tried that before (feedback)? i guess i like it because i have a 0.1 nib on the technical pen which allows me to draw very fine lines... and i would only have to but the ink (which costs RM8.80) from an art shop (like Nan yang from Pg)...

on a side note... i recently screwed my technical pen by forgetting to place it properly... so it dropped and spoiled my 0.1 nib... will be going to get a 0.2 nib replacement this sat i guess...

I've been collecting models for a long time but never really got to paint them, I'm interested in starting out to paint. I stay in subang so anyone know any stores around and also help me with a general guide on what to get and what to do to make my models look nicer?

For all Metallic coated models it is strongly adviced that you either put it in a tight display cabinet or wrap it with plastic bag. Or else after few years all those shiny metallic will turn have black spots on them! Coated Models are the most expensive in Gundam MG linups, and are the most difficult to deal with when it comes to painting it.

lol...would you wrap your kits with plastic bag after all those hard work you done with it...better not build it at all if wanna keep it in the bag...hehe

there s almost impossible to find an air tight cabinet...air tight container got le...those for kuih raya one...lol

Hey Vincc I think putting the kit in a Kuih Raya container may look good! Especially a ACGUY in it!

if MG then u need a big jar then...but acguy no metal parts also to keep it from air...

I think Acguy will look very cute in it onli!

haiya.. vincC..

remember i asked before on the gold paint that will go dull after some time?
i was expecting some guidance fr u ler..

nb.. check check u oso kao-kao chen with them ?
u moderator ma.. later we oso cakap cakap kosong here then u dun get angry oh

true what i reply
he said wrap in plastic bag...where got ppl do that as a dulling solution

seriously own paint gold or metallic colors will become dull overtime...no matter what type of topcoat u use...even my bb also dull already now the gold parts...but somehow my freedom gold still ok...guess time will tell how long it going to still shinning.

I'm talking about those models like Hyaku Shiki 1st ver, Those special Coating versions. It will not just get dull it will turn black!

I don't see much of a problem wrapping it with "Transparent plastics", not supermarket plastic, ZIPLOCK should also do the trick. Yea sure it will give out some reflections but so do display cabinets, you can laugh but that is what I did to my Hyaku Shiki after what I saw happened to my metallic MG: GP01-FB, Zeta, RX-78-2. They all have these black spots on the silver metallic parts. Worse of all you can't touch up those paints since Bandai using electrodes to coat them, no paint will give you that shiny mirror look.

Maybe spraying those Gloss coating might work but I dunno, depending on how Bandai coated those metallic it either melt off or it stays shiny. Try spraying perfumes on one of your BB Gundam Gold Horns and you'll see what I mean. Turns em to Chrome.

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Added on November 1, 2007, 3:15 pmBy the way I'm looking for a Compressor, a cheap but reliable one. I'm using those Mr.Gunzo Airgun. Do I need a regulator or vent so pressure will not build up when I'm not spraying the gun (compressor still running).

What's the power rating, price I should be looking at? Can it be found in hardware shops or just the modelling shops stated above?

Also what is the recommended practice when handling compressors? Need time out every 15 minutes?

This post has been edited by advocado: Nov 1 2007, 03:37 PM

a way to preserve ur kit metal shine is to re gloss coat and re polish it when the shine goes down ...... nothing last forever
if u want ur kit to look brand new forever u have to maintain it ...... the above solution i've only try on metal painted kit ..... for those pre coat kit like hyaku shiki im not sure .....

Basically those gold becoming dull is really an issue that cant be solve if u want to display them! Even real gold surface get dull after a certain amount of time expose under the atmosphere (especiall Malaysia wet wet weather)! For real gold ppl polish it! But i dun think those coated one can be done!

Vacuum packing may help but not pretty at all! Maybe we should just give up the coated one and we custom color the kit!


For the compressor i cant help u much, me myself using those that have auto cut-in cut-out compressor that comes with air tank and water gauge! It wont overheat and can AB a kit for 1 day straight! But if those normal one! U need to turn off the power every 10 -15 minutes to let it cool down!

you need a air tank not regulator in that case, regulator just control the pressure and the compressor will keep running even though u r not spraying.

some compressor auto shutdown when its hot, compressor with airtank turn off when the airtank is full. one advise i had is release all air from your compressor before turn off would be recommanded.

Guys care to share the compressors with air tanks? Where can I find them and how much would they cost? Also what power output am I looking at? Can I buy a cheap compressor sold in Carefour and a air tank?


The factory metallic coating, not really recommend you apply any sorts of fluid on them other than wet cloth, coz I believe they just coat the undercoat with chrome, then do another clear metallic coat i.e gold for hyaku shiki. And if the coating method is the same as the old BB Gundam V Horns, the top coat will come off leaving you with the Chrome undercoatings. Keeping it clean, dry and away from sunlight is the only thing I can think of.

Wrapping with clear plastic aint that bad really, it's not like your doing a showroom or sumthing, the model can still be seen clearly but yea the plastic edges might suck. Or if you have the money to buy display boxes use composites to tighten the openings of the box. It's only those factory metallic paints that needs extra protection. Custom sprayed metallics and Chogokin metallics are much stronger thus you can apply what ever you want.

This post has been edited by advocado: Nov 1 2007, 04:56 PM

Hi All.... Hot Items ...

remember several month past, there a post in another forum (ScaleModelsMalaysia) for buying Moldex Respirator + Multigass filter ???

that thread is on again... here the link ... (register lo if u not a member yet)

http://z12.invisionfree.com/ScaleModelsMal...wtopic=2804&hl=


Q: why buy Moldex Respirator + Multigass filter ?
A: you can get poison smelling too much thinner/alcohol/spary can and paining material. even Art Student are compulsory to buy them.
if u wish to play with Airbrush ... try to invest in these stuff ... if your room do not have enough AIR space ....
some more those sell in ACE hardware store that can filltered multigass are far more expensive than this ... try check it out ....

Wow not bad i would like to get one too but i lazy to go register at other forum lah! Maybe u can represent him in this forum?
I register too many forum and never go watch them at all!

cannot leh ... must deal with them straight ...

anyway they are the same people that gather one a week at Cineleasure-outpost,


advocado@
1. to Get compressor with or without airtank ... all depend on your work load u doing ... normally those come with airtank have automatic shutoff feature build into, airtank also act as a moister/water trapper too ... hot air get condensed in the Tank ... those wiht out airtank u need to stop after 15min-20min of continuos using ... y? coz hot air travel in you tube will condensed into water .... so if u dont want water come out of ur Airbrush then take care .... weather also help creating Water vapor like rainny day u get better Water Vapor ... coz the Compressor get the air from it surrounding mah ...
2. Pressure/flow Value control need or not? depend lo .. different pressure are need for different paint mixer/dilute ... range from 10psi to 20psi ...
but normally the presure that comeout of you compressor are about 30psi...
3. Price ... Range from $500 - $1000+ ... important is look the better airburshes ... bigger "cup size" .... to hold the paint...
4. read alot ...
http://www.clubhyper.com/reference/compressorgi_1.htm (* please dont simple simple build, then letup u blame LYN pula, i put for reference leh *)
http://www.testors.com/hobbyist_guides.asp
http://www.airbrush.com/tips-and-tricks.aspx
5. Fish or tire pump ... never try ... u try la .. let us know ok

that fella oso lyn kaki mar..

kuman, u know?
try pm him lar
but he's in kedah.

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Added on November 1, 2007, 6:39 pmhaiya.. sometimes we got see something we got too excited to reply, without knowing we are off-track ma..
not rili intended one..
hope u understand

btw, i remember seeing eric's demo using diff combi of material to achieve good looking gold effect..
wait..

here
http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=80

maybe some have seen it already.

but to me, it's almost the same technique i applied to automobile kits.

well.. agree that glossiness fade "some" after years..

but not till the extend become very dull..

what i did:

only few layers of metallic lacquer spray frm tamiya
thick gloss coat
polish n wax.

what i did to bring back some shine
wax again

but is there any other ways?
gundam is harder to polish n wax
esp if certain parts only and it's hard to reach


This post has been edited by erh_teo: Nov 1 2007, 06:39 PM

I'm having problem in doing fine lining. i tried gundam marker (both GM01 and GM20) but u know the line is rough. I tried to thin down the line by using eraser/cotton bud and I'm not really happy with the result. after finish rubbing the lining area especially on white surface, the effect after is like shadowing. can see the area is darker and it looks dirty and messy to me. If I continue to rub with extra force, the paint is peeling off. Is there any way to do a better lining? btw, I'm AB using tamiya acrylic paint at the moment.

yeah, i found this site : gundam modelling tutorial well its a good guideline for those who starting gunpla (like me) and getting the general idea of things