before u suggest enamel...you better know what he wants...and also what kit he s talking about

giving guidance not just simply talk without knowing what are you talking about...

sd stargazer gold line there are not those normal thin line...the line are quite wide...not that u can simply drop enamel paint in there and the paint will flow inside it...

using the marker are good enough...but if you wanna try handbrush...then why not try metallic red or normal bright red...the red totally depends on you since its your idea...

damn.. gold color so marfan one meh?
i used before on automobile exhaust.. since the effect is goin to be like flat.. i don't bother much.

but if i want it to look gloss and shiny, any remedies?
no any other top coat (even with UV protection) can provide a cure?

how about chrome silver (aclad or gunze's)?

hey guys, some of my gundams required screwing some parts
but i cant seem to screw it in properly
its very tight

what kind of screwdrivers do you guys use?
i ended up gluing the parts of my FAZZ

use a normal length screwdriver.

i have ...but the tip is too big
the screws are rather small in diameter
i dont know about screwdriver sizes

fren.. try not screwing it too hard
possibility is not getting loose joint but a cracked joint
if it's like almost reach to the end (that is "looks" like cannot screw d, but still can afford few rounds of tight screwing).. stop screwing.. it will crack

anyway, any hardware shop or even at carrefour/giant/tesco hardware section oso can get those screwdriver

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Oct 30 2007, 06:05 PM

I got mine from Ace's hardware. Cant remember the size now, but look for the smallest one there is. Its basically the same size as what I use to access the ram sockets on my powerbook.

thanks guys

i found the screwdriver from ace already
i wont make the same mistake again

i actually had to glue the parts together for my previous FAZZ
=(
lucky it wasn't visible

BTW....i'm looking to get a S gundam....anyone know where i can get one and the rough price

sorry if wrong place to ask....

wanna ask, anyone here tried to import top coat or primer spray can from oversea to malaysia?

btw, compare to the bottle mr. surcafe and the spray can's one... which one is better?

Spray Can more better but expensive unless u got AB then tat different case but import from oversea is very very long and slow way to get to malaysia and need to be bulk because it can't transport by air and use Sea transport ^,^;

This post has been edited by chriswoo: Oct 30 2007, 10:20 PM

''Tight budget '' is an understatement... 1 TAMIYA spray can RM 39.90 lol.

You could always stick with handpainting... but it will be a problem with bigger kits... AND I HATE HAND PAINTING WITH FLAT WHITE !
NEed so many freaking coats.



The reason why spray cans ( and AB of course ) are SOOO much better than handpainting is cuz you get a really smooth and even painted surface... devoid of brush marks... But i heard Mr. surfacer spray cans are very toxic... more toxic than the bottle one ?

Why wanna import from overseas leh.... local can get d ma.

1st off... sry if this has been asked before... but i dun have enuff time to read 30+ pages (maybe later can... but kinda want to know the answer)... i did some checking online but i can't seem to find any...

i used to paint warhammer 40k figures... and i still have alot of paint from Game Workshop left (i'm not too sure if they're acrylic or not)... does these paints work with airbrushes?

also... i remember that from the 1st few pages, paint retarder is used to make the paint easier to handle (1:1 ratio)... can this be applied to these paints?

another thing would be... has anyone here tried modding their kits with either epoxy or resin?
i'm very interested in these types of modding and would like to learn more if there are any resources... also, where do we buy the materials for such a task?

here's a little tip for you then Never ever paint pure flat white and pure flat black, unless you've got all the time in the world to put on so many coats lar

If you're doing white, add a tiny drop of black into the mix (just enough to reduce the white by a tiny shade that its not really noticeable unless u really scrutinize it. This will help to strengthen the pigment.

Same goes for blacks as well. Add a tiny drop of white into the mix. While blacks do not require as many layers as white, doing this will make the result less prone to getting dirty.

---

Added on October 30, 2007, 11:39 pmYes, those paints r acrylic. Rather heavy acrylic as well. I suggest thinning it down with a mix of water + alcohol. However keep in mind that acrylics tends to clog the airbrush like mad. Using acrylics, its just 5 minutes or less before it starts to clog, and I need to clear the nozzle, but I dont get that problem with lacquers.

If u want to use those for airbrushing, then plan your spraying. Don't spray for more than 5 minutes at a time, and clean your nozzle frequently.

This post has been edited by fyire: Oct 30 2007, 11:39 PM

thanks fyire... when you mention alchohol, i assume that you're talking about rubbing alcohol?
and what are the ratios what you would suggest if using them for airbrush... as well as brush painting?

This post has been edited by pweeapw: Oct 30 2007, 11:46 PM

Yup, that can do as well, although I use methylated spirits from the hardware shops. ratios, hard to say, as it depends very much on the color as well. But I use a 50/50 mix of water to alcohol when thinning for airbrushing. For hand brush painting, I use only water.

hmmm... i tried mixing the paints (citadel color) with water and the colors ended up as being washy on the kit... colors that i've tried are white, blue and red... unless i start mixing... then it sticks a little better and becomes better to handle....

i've also tried to mix it with mr. hobby retarder mild... i would assume that it's alchohol based... any experience with this?

a question on pla plates... what's the general method you use to 'attach' them to the kits? cement? i'm planning to start modding my kits with these...

based on a discussion with another person... he recommended resin or epoxy... has anyone tried this before? if so where do i find these things as i am aware that there are many grades out there in the market...

Well, that does happen. It'll help a lot if you're to use a primer. The hardest part about hand painting is to get the first layer to coat the plastic evenly, and then you cannot have it too thick too. Its only the second coat onwards that gets easier, and its only on the second coat onwards where the color really shows. On the first layer, you should still be able to see the plastic through the paint. I used to go till like 3 layers when hand painting acrylics.

Also, you can try adjusting your paint to water ratio accordingly.

If you find that mixing the paints helps better, then yup, that's one solution as well. Just remember to control your mix ratio so that you get the paint to handle better, but still have the color as what u want.

Another trick that I use is to use a 50/50 mix of Citadel with Tamiya. The tamiya mix will allow the paint to grip better on the surface, while the citadel mix will allow for a better finishing.

Dunno where i heard this news! I remember someone told me that those paints or stuff with alcoholic stuff in it has some problem when importing in to Malaysia!


Yup unless u r playing with shading effect that is another story!

gotit

i experienced this once... the paint sort of started sliding off the kit... that would mean that the paint was too thin right?

one thing i've never tried would be to use a coat of primer before i paint... maybe i'll try that to see if i can get better results...

and nope... not for shading or weathering... i'm planning to try dry brushing for that...

lol if dry brushing try to paint 1 later 1st then let it dry within 1 hour then paint addon other layer then repeat 3 time then u get smooth like AB surface ^.^ i try tat it works jsut perfect