Hmmm...might be a while ago. I don't remember. Will try asking around. Thanks!


Do you have any gearbox specialist to recommend?

Oof. That can't be good. I only started to take serious care of my car this year thanks to PKP and have nothing to do. Next time if you do any repair or maintenance on the car, have it written down in a book, keep it in the glove box. Keep track the date and the mileage during each repair job. The maintenance reminder sticker on windshield not too reliable as I've found them to fade with time especially if you park your car under the sun.

I use Evernote. 🙂

No sorry bro.

What's the average gas mileage for persona auto? Before this I always see my odometer around 7.6-8L/100km city drive. This year I did a few DIY, cleaned throttle body, cleaned MAP sensor, change engine oil to 10w40 semi synthetic, and I'm seeing that the fuel consumption has increased to 8.8L/100km.

Anyone know where to purchase new Persona shark fin (Jet Grey color)? Want to fit to my Saga

Have you solved the issue? I accidentally did a full front suspension restoration because of a noise issue.

Basically, you need to make sure the nature of the noise. If it's rhythmic that changes depending on your speed, it can be 3 things: wheel bearing, tire and drive shaft/cv axle, the thing that rotates in the car. IF not, it can be other things.

Nope. Recently just service at Proton SC. After they check, suspect is drive shaft. My is only when turn the steering while moving. The noise not relate to speed. As long steering turn the 'tak' plastic or metal sound is there. When turn back also same.

End up, technician say as long no leaking just use it. As replace it will be more than 1k.

ah i see, it's the outer cv axle. you can get new aftermarket one for 150-250 on shopee depending on what brand + have ABS or not. anything proton original one sure mahal double price compared to aftermarket. changed my left driveshaft few months ago with brand Gaido RM210 plus pay labor charge RM40.

anyhow, Proton SC can just walk in or need to make appointment?

Yours noise relate to speed or not? How's the result after change? So you buy at Shopee? Labour RM40 should be ok.

About Proton SC, i service at Melaka. Normally if no appointment, just wait longer if lot of car. Not sure KL can walk-in or not? Depends on branch also...

my car noise is a mix of different parts gone bad, sounds like wub wub wub when i take a right corner at around 40km/h and if faster it will sound like tire gone bad (shock absorber, absorber mount, bearings both sides, and driveshaft). but my driveshaft doesn't make any noise, i sometime lose control when driving on highway, the only clue that i have it has gone bad is the torn rubber boot and leaking grease everywhere.

labour RM40 is the usual mechanic under tree price, may vary different workshop.

gave my ironhorse a makeover after 122 months

repainted whole car RM1.7k

Hi, I have a 2008 Proton Persona AT1.6. I read this "Problem 1: Knocking sound when cornering on uneven surface coming from Front RHS" from the general tips.
After 12 years, am I able to claim it? Anyone has the photo comparison?

Anyone has recommended legit spark plug brand & seller? Denso?
I remember I changed 4 of them (NGK) for RM60, they are kind of suspicious...

"Problem 1: Knocking sound when cornering on uneven surface coming from Front RHS
Causes: This is due to the power steering fluid delivery piping knocking against the metal pipe and the body underneath it as the uneven road causes it to twitch up and down.
OLD Pipe (left) vs New Pipe (right)
[attachmentid=1911676][attachmentid=1911677]

Solution: Proceed to Proton SC to claim warranty for Power Steering fluid assembly. Claims are FOC, including the power steering fluid.
Parts list they will change for this new power steering assembly.
1)Tube B - PW828913N
2)Tube A - PW828914N
3)Hose Return - PW828915N
4)Rubber Hose - PW820961
5)Clip Pressure - PW820962
6)Orifice Valve - PW895228 "

This post has been edited by Holyjolly: Dec 30 2020, 11:29 AM

I doubt that they will still honor the warranty after 12 years...

I've found out that weird noise complaint is one of the least favorite things for a car mechanic to diagnose. To save money, better find out where the noise coming from by yourself, or else they will throw spare parts at your car until it eventually fixed.

For starter, how is the nature of the noise? Rhythmic that increases in frequency when you drive faster? Noise gone when you hit the brakes? Don't trust where the noise come from when in the car, it can easily be very deceptive. Sometimes left noise can be heard as if it comes from right side and vice versa.

Noise when cornering usually can be two things: wheel bearings and driveshaft/CV axle. If only happen on uneven road, maybe try check the condition of your stabilizer link/sway bar links and bushings. See if your absorber is in good condition too.

paint inside and outside including engine bay?

outside only

I agree with steponlego. Furthermore they might not keep parts for our Persona anymore. You might want to locate the possible knocking piping, and use insulation foam + zip tie to balut the knocking part. Cheap fix but will take some time.

Anyway this is the best about our car. Relatively easy to settle DIY manner.

My personal knocking sound was actually the Silverstone tyre when car was new. Changed to other brand than no more rattling. If i were you I'll probably ask workshop to check suspension also, see got leaking absorber, spoiled mounting bearing or lower arm bush those.

For spark plug, i use Denso Iridium TT recommended by Zordaq. Already 80,000km. As i change it together with my last timing belt. Will be using back it. If you search those online shopping platform, goes by SKU number of IT20TT for our persona.

If when you cabut the ignition coil boot and they cracked, buy silicone boot from online shopping and use back the ignition pack. Cheap cheap good good.

I heard the knock sound on front RHS (or front area) when cornering through very uneven road / pot holes / speed bumps, which is the loudest since early years. Like you said, technician just simply changed right lower arm but it doesnt help much. So, I came to this and think that it is related to this design flaw?
I also hearing many sounds coming from all 4 wheels when passing repetitive uneven road. it sounds louder when reaching certain vibrate frequency / amplitude
Ya, I agree with you but I am not so experience in relating the sound to the parts. Still learning the parts.
I have asked car garage technician to drive once and he comments that it considerably still ok. I assume it is not critical yet.
Sounds subjective as I guess it is influenced by the sound proofing of the car. I think the door seal also getting poor.
Thank you for the relating info. Maybe one day change the links and arms by phase but end goal is fix what is broken.


I agree with you also. Thinking to DIY too to have fun but I need to learn where is the pipe. *update: I found it from the V10 thread.
Thank you for the suggestion. Let me browse it through, just worry that there is counterfeit product.

This post has been edited by Holyjolly: Dec 30 2020, 10:22 PM

I assume the mechanic already looked under the car see if anything looked need replacing? Might be wheel bearings because you can't see the bearings, you can only feel it and hear it knocks/whines. Or could be just a case of old shock absorber. You can look for how to video on how to confirm if it is a case of bad bearings. It's easy for the rear wheels because you can freely spin them when you jack the car, but for the front it will be a bit tricky.

Car already past 10 years, might be a good idea to replace all the suspension parts. Change everything on the front: 1.lower arm (RM140 pair), 2. shock absorber (RM400 pair) 3. absorber mount (RM100 pair) 4.sway bar link (RM80-100 pair), 5.wheel bearings (RM100 pair) 6.sway bar bushing (RM10) 7.steering rack bushing (RM10) 8.engine mounts (RM150) 9.Rod end and tie rod end.

You can bring your own part, just ask your trusted workshop to install them for you. I just recently change everything on the front, cost me 2k I think including labor. Cost might be lower if you do everything in one swoop. Planning to replace the rear suspension next year.

My odometer shown 6.7 to 7.5 normally.
I do not know how accurate it is btw.

After cleaning Throttle Body, some more FC increase?