2011 PE 320,000km reporting in.

Only jerking I have is when I engage clutch wrongly. Let go too early..

I usually request the fluid to be filled to the half between min and Max level. So far looking healthy. Don't think you should bother.

If your car rear suspension make ngik ngok ngik ngok noise when you naik kereta, it's tulanh anjing rosak already. Even one will also make noise, but usually I change all 4 to save on worksmanship.

This post has been edited by inferno_17_85: Sep 18 2018, 09:07 PM

2 long & 2 short. Total 4.

Personal experience. Mine is compressor pulley rosak. My aorcond guy give me 2 options. One is change entire compressor, another is change pulley. Changing pulley is cheaper but the process of knocking pulley out from compressor shaft might damage the other shaft connected parts, resulting compressor failure by leaking or other way. So this is generally gambling with chances and skill of your aircond guy. And this does not means that other parts of the compressor will not fail in near future. Because usually pulley tak rosak carbon pun hampir habis eventually.

On the other hand, he offer me pain one time to change ori compressor. Really painful. I took this option.

I let you decide.

Sorry, really forgot about it already. But i remember it's not horribly expensive.

Update:
Now rate in JB is new compressor around 800 excluding worksmanship, recond between 500 to 600. You also need to factor in filter and valve cost.

This post has been edited by inferno_17_85: Sep 21 2018, 02:27 PM

Hmm. The theory of my air cond guy is since already buka already it's better to change the filter & expansion valve. The very reason is air cond is closed system. So if you didn't change the filter that works with previous system, the metal sharpnel trapped could dislodge and subsequently damage new compressor.

On the power reduction & noise I seriously have no idea. Could it be the new compressor receive not enough of compressor oil thus hard for engine to pull? Just curious.

How often you drive your car? Thing with bearing is it's wear and tear. I haven't changed mine as of now with 329,000km clocked in 7 years. I won't be surprised if need to change la.. I stood by original parts. If can get original. If cannot just use best quality possible.

Just fixed my bumper jatuh by installing bumper clip from eBay. Asked mudguard shop to install for me. Worksmanship RM50. Wasted the guy a lot of time I feel so sorry for him.


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What oil you used previously, and did you overfill engine oil this round? May I know also your average speed for this particular trip?

If your engine oil level is at full level or sightly higher, this might be warranted situation.

Your previous oil is fully synthetic, thus by theory should be more fuel efficient (but not wallet efficient unless you can get it cheap from Tesco). Changing to semi going to takes time for you to adapt into semi punya slight increase in FC.

I change my EO usually at 5k mark, so really cannot comment on 7k EO viscosity, buy theoretically it should thin down and provide more fuel efficiency at the cost of less friction protection because reduced capability of EO to form oil film.

Anyway try look into your engine oil level will you? I still believer of with MOS2 coating, we can do away with 75% dipstick level of EO in persona.

Something i forgot to ask. Your tyre size will affect FC also. So did you change to a new profile of tyre?

Lol. Yes. Aesthetically minimalist and the best part is, no need to drill on fender. Just install the bottom screw on fender screw hole.

Bought it on eBay, but accessory shop don't know how to install, asked me to find mudguard shop.

Sorry to hear that bro. Hopefully your mechanic can catch the leaking place & cause.

@The_FQ400 bro's question is the one I would ask also.

Search for "quick release bumper latch" in eBay will do.

One of them is this:
https://www.ebaycom/itm/Universal-Push-Butt...pUAAOSwIM9a1ren

You still need to drill on bumper to fix in the cap though.

Tried press and hold both buttons of remote control for 5 secs?
Could be your honk wiring rosak? I got mine damaged (wire sheath exposed) in previous accident and didn't realise it until my air cond guy opens up front bumper to access condenser. Not saying that it's the cause, just would like to highlight how often mechanics or accident repair workshop overlook it.


Hi Bro, the picture in post #156 is my B-Line Chiffon Green Nana. XD


Would agree to that. I bleed mine every 25,000km though. I clocked almost 5000km per month.


Throttle body clean? Got check on that tak? Last time i got wiring problem causing throttle body cannot open fully. Manual transmission here though.

Oh. If it still choking then better send back to proton to check. My point is it could be due to wiring problem or other problem that general mechanics have no tool to diagnose. Hope everything went well.

Check your weather membrane. Most likely is weather membrane leak already.

Can. Can DIY one. Like Mingwei1992 said, it can be done. Although I used UHU instead of proper butyl tape.

Omg... Means mine anytime... 330k km now...

Chill bro. 30 ringgit one month only. I keep telling myself that. LoL