Just to share if any have encountered a rattling sound near driver's door/windows/B pillar, for my case it's the U hook at the door latch. The door latch is not thick enough so it's making the rattling sound when it's locked. Solution is just put some tape over the U hook.

this 1 really a mystery to solve.. maybe next time u go ask SC to find a similar model test for you to see

I asked them but they say it's normal...which I smell bullshit but I couldn't say anything more. Plus I don't use it much so I just let it be.

Most Mazda SC are like this. I end up taking my family car to Glenmarie body and paint SC, which solve many issues on it. Last time annoying sound pop up, Kajang SC told normal, there, I claimed steering clock spring

Is this the u hook you are refering?

Correct. Kasi tape left right front then problem solved.

Your door didn't feel harder to open or close after this?

I tried the same on my CX30, end up my door can't really close or open properly. Need to pull harder when closing and push harder to open. Maybe I wrapped too thick

Maybe don't wrap one of the side. Need to trial and error. I wrap a thin layer of tapes so seems okay.

Uhhh I think I am experiencing the Mazda gear box issue now.
Yesterday while driving it sounded like my engine is stuck in low gear, my speed is not matching up to my rpm (speedometer hardly moves while tachometer increases)
Went to a auto repair shop and after checking he said could be gear box issue, usually need to overhaul the whole box which could cost 4-5k?
What he suggested trying to do is changing the gear box oil and oil treatment which cost a few hundred to see if it fixes the issue instead.

Anyone had similar experience?

I think yours is a very rare case. I rarely see gearbox issue on Mazda cars..even in Facebook group I almost never see anyone complained about that

What is your car mileage and year?

Have u change the atf all these time? If no, then u are not alone for gb issues. Saw many who haven't change atf suffer GB issues when hit mileage above 100k km, the one case i remember was at 120+k km. Those who change the atf did have any issues.

Iiwu, will find workshop that can do ATF GB flushing via machine for few hundred then see from there if that can solve the issues

2018 model and only 70k km 😢
Don’t think I did any ATF change. So far all my 6 months servicing was done through Mazda 4S, don’t think they did any

If follow Mazda service requirements, no ATF change at all

Man... it's only 70k mileage, not even near 100k

Man... it's only 70k mileage, not even near 100k. Is there any definite way to know whether is really gear box need to overhaul? Or just changing ATF is a fix for the issue?

Best to get advice from gb shop. Eventhough it is relatively low mileage, but 2018. Considering no ATF done b4

This post has been edited by ayamxxx: Jun 28 2025, 04:08 PM

Don't need to overhaul the gb.

During your said shifting, the transmission control valve (metallic and male) was momentarily getting stucked within the valve body (metallic part and is a female) due to impurities.

The impurities or dirts/contaminants was from a 'used and burnt' ATF, at 70K km mileage in your case.

It is not caused by ATF leaks at polymer oil seals which hardened over say, 300-500K km usage. Oil seal hardening in a 70K km AT operating in low temperature regime is, imo academic.

Hence there is no need for ATF treatment (as recommended above, with due respect).

The only thing to do is:
replace new ATF. Period.

For mineral ATF type, replace new every 40K km or below.

For fully synthetic type ATF, replace new every 100K km or below.

*Lifetime fluids classification is a Mazda (and other car manufacturers) marketing terminology, It's not a technical or lubricant terminology.

*Mazda meant lifetime as manufacturer warranty period of typically 100K km.

Note: Don't ever do ATF flushing (with due respect) in a Control Valve System that always comes with super duper tight clearance at say, 1-5 microns.

1 micron = 1000 nano.

Just my 2 sen.

This post has been edited by zeng: Jun 29 2025, 11:41 AM

Any reason why can't do the ATF flushing? In my idea, once done the flushing, it will replace the 100% of old ATF instead of says 60% of old ATF via normal ATF change method

Yes, flushing can get near 100% of old used ATF fluid out in one go whereas typical 'drain and fill' cannot and like you say some 60% in one go.

Hence typical 'drain and fill' ATF fluid change (which may not be possible by oe design in Mazda) may need more 'goes'.

However typical workshop has another method in 'pneumatic extraction and fill' which would get out say 90% or thereabouts of old fluid in one go. Of course one can go for 2 'goes' or more as desired.

Besides, flushing method in ATF fluid change in North America has resulted (statistically) in more cases of AT problems than the 'drain/air extraction and fill'' method, probably due to violent and uncontrolled fluid agitation in flushing method whereas the other method is of much lesser violent fluid agitation, I guess.

This post has been edited by zeng: Jun 30 2025, 12:01 PM